The chaotic, impenetrable streets of Tehran have left Navid, a multiple sclerosis sufferer, feeling like a prisoner in his home.
Even for the able-bodied, the uncontrolled building spree of recent years means the Iranian capital can often seem like an assault course of narrow broken pathways, gutters full of rushing water, and cars shoved into every available inch of space.
For the thousands of disabled people in Tehran, the hilly streets are effectively a no-go zone.
"My companions are the four walls around me. I'm so tired of staring at the ceiling," said Navid Salahi, a 30-year-old who is confined to a wheelchair after being diagnosed with multiple sclerosis as a child.
"I'm afraid to go outside on my own. It's horrible. Even at my front door, trying to get in a cab, I've fallen over twice because the street is so uneven. My mother does all my errands," he said.
The city council offers a disability bus service, which must be booked two days in advance, and which gets him to work at a disabled rehabilitation centre every day.
"Of course, once you make the reservation, it may or may not show up," said Navid.
With a new reformist administration taking power in Tehran, disability activists are hoping for change.
"Our disabled people are mostly housebound and depressed," said Fatemeh Nikbakht, who runs the Spinal Cord Injury Association with around 1,000 members.
"Even an elderly person or a lady with a child cannot move easily in our urban spaces," she said.
Official figures show there are 94,000 disabled people in Tehran, though advocates say the real figure could be far higher.
Few are ever seen on its busy streets, nor on the city's bus and metro system because reaching the stations is near impossible.
The government is well aware of the problem.
"A disabled person cannot go even 1,000 metres on Tehran's pavements or roads without facing obstacles," transport minister Abbas Akhoundi said earlier this year.
"The streets have so many puddles, bumps, differences in ground level and widening or narrowing that even a healthy person cannot deal with them," he added.
A building binge - fuelled by cheap credit and the hunt for secure assets amid sanctions and recession - means it is almost impossible to stand anywhere in Tehran without seeing cranes and the skeleton of a new apartment block or mall.
But little care has been given to accessing the buildings or designing them for disabled users, activists say.
"Many parks, cinemas, shopping centres or public spaces are just not accessible," said Behnam Soleimani, a 34-year-old computer teacher who uses a wheelchair.
He has been waiting several years for the council to respond to his request for a ramp at his building's entrance.
"A broken cobblestone on the sidewalk may not even be seen by a healthy pedestrian but it's a crisis for someone in a wheelchair," he said.
Bollards erected on pavements and in pedestrian alleyways to block motorbikes from using them to escape the traffic also inadvertently cause problems for the disabled.
Some well-meaning measures have been ineffective. Social media users have ridiculed new lanes for blind people with pictures showing them heading directly into trees and gutters.
The outgoing conservative mayor of Tehran, Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf, promised last month that 60 disabled-friendly buses would soon join the public transport fleet, and that accessibility improvements would form part of future transport budgets.
But disability advocates say they have been hearing these promises for a long time.
A handful of pilot projects have done little for the disabled population as a whole.
"Sadly, these are like dispersed islands and do not form a unified puzzle to allow disabled people to leave the house, move freely or use public transport," said Soheil Moeini, a blind journalist who runs a non-governmental organisation called the Bavar (Belief) Association.
"Accessibility is not only a right for all citizens, but also a precondition for any participation of disabled people in society," he added.
Bavar wants to go beyond accessibility issues.
It has been working for years with lawmakers to finalise a bill that would, among other changes, force the government either to find work for the disabled or pay them the minimum wage.
There are positive signs, with labour minister Ali Rabii saying in July that the government wanted to pass the bill quickly so they could build it into next year's budget.
"We no longer accept sympathy or favours. These are our rights," said Mr Moeini.
THE SPECS
Engine: 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V12 petrol engine
Power: 420kW
Torque: 780Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh1,350,000
On sale: Available for preorder now
Test
Director: S Sashikanth
Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan
Star rating: 2/5
MO
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The specs
Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel
Power: 579hp
Torque: 859Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh825,900
On sale: Now
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
Afghanistan fixtures
- v Australia, today
- v Sri Lanka, Tuesday
- v New Zealand, Saturday,
- v South Africa, June 15
- v England, June 18
- v India, June 22
- v Bangladesh, June 24
- v Pakistan, June 29
- v West Indies, July 4
If you go
The flights
There are various ways of getting to the southern Serengeti in Tanzania from the UAE. The exact route and airstrip depends on your overall trip itinerary and which camp you’re staying at.
Flydubai flies direct from Dubai to Kilimanjaro International Airport from Dh1,350 return, including taxes; this can be followed by a short flight from Kilimanjaro to the Serengeti with Coastal Aviation from about US$700 (Dh2,500) return, including taxes. Kenya Airways, Emirates and Etihad offer flights via Nairobi or Dar es Salaam.
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
Look%20Both%20Ways
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A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
Company profile
Name: Back to Games and Boardgame Space
Started: Back to Games (2015); Boardgame Space (Mark Azzam became co-founder in 2017)
Founder: Back to Games (Mr Azzam); Boardgame Space (Mr Azzam and Feras Al Bastaki)
Based: Dubai and Abu Dhabi
Industry: Back to Games (retail); Boardgame Space (wholesale and distribution)
Funding: Back to Games: self-funded by Mr Azzam with Dh1.3 million; Mr Azzam invested Dh250,000 in Boardgame Space
Growth: Back to Games: from 300 products in 2015 to 7,000 in 2019; Boardgame Space: from 34 games in 2017 to 3,500 in 2019
Copa del Rey final
Sevilla v Barcelona, Saturday, 11.30pm (UAE), match on Bein Sports
if you go
The flights
Fly direct to Kutaisi with Flydubai from Dh925 return, including taxes. The flight takes 3.5 hours. From there, Svaneti is a four-hour drive. The driving time from Tbilisi is eight hours.
The trip
The cost of the Svaneti trip is US$2,000 (Dh7,345) for 10 days, including food, guiding, accommodation and transfers from and to Tbilisi or Kutaisi. This summer the TCT is also offering a 5-day hike in Armenia for $1,200 (Dh4,407) per person. For further information, visit www.transcaucasiantrail.org/en/hike/
The specs
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Transmission: ten-speed
Power: 420bhp
Torque: 624Nm
Price: Dh325,125
On sale: Now