The streets of Makkah usually throng with people and hum with the chatter of dialects as pilgrims from all over the world gather in Saudi Arabia’s holiest city for Hajj.
All day and night, the aromas of different cuisines mingle in the air, and people wearing African and Asian dress crowd into the main thoroughfares.
Makkah, during Hajj, is a city that doesn't sleep.
This year, the streets around the Holy Mosque are quiet. Residents say it is the emptiest they have yet seen the Holy City, which usually draws more than two million people during Hajj.
In response to the coronavirus pandemic, Saudi authorities limited the number of pilgrims attending this year’s pilgrimage to the low thousands. Only those already in the country were allowed to apply to attend as borders remained closed due by the pandemic.
Those who are able to participate in the annual pilgrimage will have the Holy Mosque almost to themselves. But for residents who eagerly anticipate the arrival of Muslims from across the world to share in the devotions each year, the city seems strangely silent.
“It feels almost like a deserted place," said resident Yusra Bundagji as she drove through the streets on the first day of Dhul Hijjah, the pilgrimage month.
"My eyes fill with tears when I see the almost empty streets and malls … I miss the noise of crowds," she tells The National.
Among those who have most noticed the changes this year are the mutawfeen who act as guides for foreign pilgrims and arrange accommodation and transportation. For many, this is the first Hajj they will not spend at the holy sites.
Abudwahid Safialdeen, a 64-year-old Mutawef, has spent every Hajj with pilgrims since his childhood. “My father and my grandfather worked serving pilgrims from West Africa; we used to host them in our house and find accommodation for them in our neighbours’ houses,” he says.
Mr Safialdeen joined the industry when he was 18 and has held senior roles in numerous agencies that cater to the needs of pilgrims throughout his career. “This is the first time I have ever been deprived of participating in the Hajj, deprived of the honour of serving God’s guests,” he says, his voice cracking.
“This year Makkah is empty … the Holy Mosque is empty … the tawaf – the area circling the Kaaba – is empty.
“Everything is ready, but where are the pilgrims? Where are God's guests?”
While many say they are saddened by the effect of the pandemic on the annual event, Mr Safialdeen and his colleagues say they hope for Allah’s reward for their patience.
“We know this situation is God’s will and our religion teaches us that the health of people is of greater importance than any holy ritual.”
Ordinarily, hundreds of thousands crowd into the holy sites over a five or six-day period during the Hajj, which brings people from all over the world into close contact.
This year, the ban on overseas pilgrims is supplemented by social distancing during the rituals and a restriction on touching the Kaaba.
Only those few thousand given special permits will be able to access the Hajj sites at Mina, Muzdalifah and Arafat and masks will be mandatory throughout.
The new regulations have drawn praise from the World Health Organisation. “This [decision] is another example of the hard choices that all countries must make to put health first,” WHO chief Tedros Ghebreyesus said this month.
“We understand that it was not an easy decision to make. And we also understand it is a major disappointment for many Muslims who are looking forward to making their pilgrimage this year.”
The impact is far-reaching in Makkah, where much of the economy is geared towards Hajj season. “Literally everyone in Makkah, in one way or another, works in Hajj,” Mr Safialdeen says, listing the array of formal and informal roles from guides, volunteers and doctors to those who rent buildings, rooms and cars to pilgrims.
Restaurants and catering services are particularly affected. Last year, Hajj Catering Agency, the official authority that oversees all catering services during the season, worked with more than 240 catering services in Makkah to prepare 60 million meals.
This year, only eight kitchens are expected to prepare pre-cooked meals in partnership with Saudia airline catering services, a source told The National.
In the weeks leading up to Hajj, food companies and philanthropists rush to get approval to distribute food free to the pilgrims.
“Unfortunately, this year, for health measures and to reduce the number of people in the holy sites, we didn’t give a single permit, the source said.
Hajj accommodation usually books up months in advance. A few weeks before the start, signs advertising “Hajj renting” are usually replaced with the flag of the nationality of the people who have rented the property. This year, most of these buildings still hand the rental signs over their doors.
Taha Faqeeh, who owns two buildings in Makkah with capacity for 900 pilgrims, is among those to have not rented space this year.
"I retired prematurely and spent my inheritance buying these buildings. They have been my main source of income for the past five years," he says. "When the authorities officially announced that Hajj was only for residents of Saudi Arabia I directed myself to the Qibla [in the direction of the Kaaba] and prayed for God to compensate us," he tells The National.
Younger generations also say the change has been significant. Ruqaya Kamal has been volunteering as a front-line health worker in the Hajj since she was in medical school.
“Since I first volunteered in 2014, I became addicted to it. It is the most rewarding feeling ever,” the 26-year-old doctor says.
Ms Kamal is part of the Saudi Medical Academy for Volunteers, which specialises in medical assistance for pilgrims, sending a 275-person team to all the holy sites in Makkah, Mina, Arafat and Muzdalefah.
“Hajj is the greatest school of life – you learn to give your best despite the heat exhaustion, the long hours of walking and even despite the language barrier,” she says. “This year I’m missing these valuable lessons.”
Ms Kamal adds that she planned her annual leave in January to be available for the Hajj.
Instead, she is spending the time working with the Ministry of Health Covid-19 team.
"Everyone who volunteers in Hajj feels unhappy once the season is over, it is a drop in productivity from intense days to normal days. However, this year the Hajj season didn't even start and I’m already feeling down."
Many hope things will return to normal for next year and more pilgrims will flock to the holy city after such a quiet year.
Ordinarily, 60-year-old Mutawef Khattab Ejaimi employees 25 people to accommodate pilgrims from Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia.
“I worry financially about those who used to work in Hajj. Some people have other jobs as well, but many rely on this season for the majority of their income for the year,” he says.
“I know this time will pass, and we will make it up next year, hopefully, once Corona is over, we expect even bigger numbers than ever.”
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Museum of the Future in numbers
- 78 metres is the height of the museum
- 30,000 square metres is its total area
- 17,000 square metres is the length of the stainless steel facade
- 14 kilometres is the length of LED lights used on the facade
- 1,024 individual pieces make up the exterior
- 7 floors in all, with one for administrative offices
- 2,400 diagonally intersecting steel members frame the torus shape
- 100 species of trees and plants dot the gardens
- Dh145 is the price of a ticket
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Monster Hunter: World
Capcom
PlayStation 4, Xbox One
Match info
Uefa Nations League A Group 4
England 2 (Lingard 78', Kane 85')
Croatia 1 (Kramaric 57')
Man of the match: Harry Kane (England)
UAE%20FIXTURES
%3Cp%3EWednesday%2019%20April%20%E2%80%93%20UAE%20v%20Kuwait%3Cbr%3EFriday%2021%20April%20%E2%80%93%20UAE%20v%20Hong%20Kong%3Cbr%3ESunday%2023%20April%20%E2%80%93%20UAE%20v%20Singapore%3Cbr%3EWednesday%2026%20April%20%E2%80%93%20UAE%20v%20Bahrain%3Cbr%3ESaturday%2029%20April%20%E2%80%93%20Semi-finals%3Cbr%3ESunday%2030%20April%20%E2%80%93%20Third%20position%20match%3Cbr%3EMonday%201%20May%20%E2%80%93%20Final%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Gothia Cup 2025
4,872 matches
1,942 teams
116 pitches
76 nations
26 UAE teams
15 Lebanese teams
2 Kuwaiti teams
'Avengers: Infinity War'
Dir: The Russo Brothers
Starring: Chris Evans, Chris Pratt, Tom Holland, Robert Downey Junior, Scarlett Johansson, Elizabeth Olsen
Four stars
THE LOWDOWN
Photograph
Rating: 4/5
Produced by: Poetic License Motion Pictures; RSVP Movies
Director: Ritesh Batra
Cast: Nawazuddin Siddiqui, Sanya Malhotra, Farrukh Jaffar, Deepak Chauhan, Vijay Raaz
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champioons League semi-final, first leg:
Liverpool 5
Salah (35', 45 1'), Mane (56'), Firmino (61', 68')
Roma 2
Dzeko (81'), Perotti (85' pen)
Second leg: May 2, Stadio Olimpico, Rome
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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China
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UAE
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Japan
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Norway
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Canada
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Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
Chef Nobu's advice for eating sushi
“One mistake people always make is adding extra wasabi. There is no need for this, because it should already be there between the rice and the fish.
“When eating nigiri, you must dip the fish – not the rice – in soy sauce, otherwise the rice will collapse. Also, don’t use too much soy sauce or it will make you thirsty. For sushi rolls, dip a little of the rice-covered roll lightly in soy sauce and eat in one bite.
“Chopsticks are acceptable, but really, I recommend using your fingers for sushi. Do use chopsticks for sashimi, though.
“The ginger should be eaten separately as a palette cleanser and used to clear the mouth when switching between different pieces of fish.”
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
SPECS
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202-litre%204-cylinder%20turbo%20and%203.6-litre%20V6%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESeven-speed%20automatic%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20235hp%20and%20310hp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E258Nm%20and%20271Nm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20From%20Dh185%2C100%0D%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
RACE CARD
4pm Al Bastakiya – Listed (TB) $150,000 (Dirt) 1,900m
4.35pm Dubai City Of Gold – Group 2 (TB) $228,000 (Turf) 2,410m
5.10pm Mahab Al Shimaal – Group 3 (TB) $228,000 (D) 1,200m
5.45pm Burj Nahaar – Group 3 (TB) $228,000 (D) 1,600m
6.20pm Jebel Hatta – Group 1 (TB) $260,000 (T) 1,800m
6.55pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 – Group 1 (TB) $390,000 (D) 2,000m
7.30pm Nad Al Sheba – Group 3 (TB) $228,000 (T) 1,200m
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
RESULTS
5pm Wathba Stallions Cup Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner Munfared, Fernando Jara (jockey), Ahmed Al Mehairbi (trainer)
5.30pm Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner Sawt Assalam, Szczepan Mazur, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami
6pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner Dergham Athbah, Pat Dobbs, Mohamed Daggash
6.30pm Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner Rajee, Fernando Jara, Majed Al Jahouri
7pm Conditions (PA) Dh80,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner Kerless Del Roc, Fernando Jara, Ahmed Al Mehairbi
7.30pm Handicap (TB) Dh70,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner Pharoah King, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson
8pm Conditions (PA) Dh85,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner Sauternes Al Maury, Dane O’Neill, Doug Watson
RESULTS
5pm: Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Racing Festival Purebred Arabian Cup Conditions (PA) Dh 200,000 (Turf) 1,600m
Winner: Hameem, Adrie de Vries (jockey), Abdallah Al Hammadi (trainer)
5.30pm: Sheikha Fatima bint Mubarak Cup Conditions (PA) Dh 200,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: Winked, Connor Beasley, Abdallah Al Hammadi
6pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Cup Listed (TB) Dh 380,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: Boerhan, Ryan Curatolo, Nicholas Bachalard
6.30pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Group 3 (PA) Dh 500,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: AF Alwajel, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
7pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Jewel Crown Group 1 (PA) Dh 5,000,000 (T) 2,200m
Winner: Messi, Pat Dobbs, Timo Keersmaekers
7.30pm: Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Racing Festival Handicap (PA) Dh 150,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Harrab, Ryan Curatolo, Jean de Roualle
8pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 100,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: AF Alareeq, Connor Beasley, Ahmed Al Mehairbi
MATCH INFO
Euro 2020 qualifier
Russia v Scotland, Thursday, 10.45pm (UAE)
TV: Match on BeIN Sports
A cheaper choice
Vanuatu: $130,000
Why on earth pick Vanuatu? Easy. The South Pacific country has no income tax, wealth tax, capital gains or inheritance tax. And in 2015, when it was hit by Cyclone Pam, it signed an agreement with the EU that gave it some serious passport power.
Cost: A minimum investment of $130,000 for a family of up to four, plus $25,000 in fees.
Criteria: Applicants must have a minimum net worth of $250,000. The process take six to eight weeks, after which the investor must travel to Vanuatu or Hong Kong to take the oath of allegiance. Citizenship and passport are normally provided on the same day.
Benefits: No tax, no restrictions on dual citizenship, no requirement to visit or reside to retain a passport. Visa-free access to 129 countries.
The specs
Engine: 2.5-litre, turbocharged 5-cylinder
Transmission: seven-speed auto
Power: 400hp
Torque: 500Nm
Price: Dh300,000 (estimate)
On sale: 2022
UAE's role in anti-extremism recognised
General John Allen, President of the Brookings Institution research group, commended the role the UAE has played in the fight against terrorism and violent extremism.
He told a Globsec debate of the UAE’s "hugely outsized" role in the fight against Isis.
"It’s trite these days to say that any country punches above its weight, but in every possible way the Emirates did, both militarily, and very importantly, the UAE was extraordinarily helpful on getting to the issue of violent extremism," he said.
He also noted the impact that Hedayah, among others in the UAE, has played in addressing violent extremism.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
THE SPECS
Touareg Highline
Engine: 3.0-litre, V6
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Power: 340hp
Torque: 450Nm
Price: Dh239,312
Company profile
Name: Oulo.com
Founder: Kamal Nazha
Based: Dubai
Founded: 2020
Number of employees: 5
Sector: Technology
Funding: $450,000
