From Fidel Castro’s rebel headquarters to Guantanamo Bay, one of Cuba’s tourist trails begins with a bracing three-hour mountainside trek and ends with a journey past sugar plantations and along roads lined with tamarind trees.
Those points of departure and destination stand as powerful symbols of two opposing cultures that are at last edging towards an uneasy rapprochement.
For more than half a century since Mr Castro’s revolution toppled the hated Batista regime, Cuba has been the enemy at the door of the United States.
At its nearest point, the defiant Communist state lies just 145 kilometres from the Florida coast. But it is out of bounds to all but a trickle of American visitors.
Now, a cautious charm offensive by president Barack Obama, reciprocated in Havana, looks likely to end this relic of the Cold War.
Hurdles remain: the US says its Guantanamo naval base is non-negotiable while Raúl Castro, the Cuban president since 2006 when ill health forced his older brother Fidel to stand down, insists the Caribbean island will never renounce its “independence, freedom or values”.
But whether a substantive deal is struck during the closing months of the Obama administration, or left to his successor, a transformation in US-Cuban relations is undoubtedly under way.
At present, only about 100,000 US citizens can sidestep strict travel restrictions and visit Cuba each year. Most visit under a 2011 relaxation of the travel ban which allows “people to people” trips for charitable and educational purposes.
Even conservative estimates suggest this figure will multiply 20-fold as general tourism becomes possible. CNN quotes travel experts as putting the potential annual number of US visitors at five million, compared with the present level of three million international tourist arrivals, chiefly from Canada and Europe.
The prospect of a new era of openness thrills many Cubans, desperate to break free from a regimented society of low incomes, empty shop shelves and a bizarre dual currency in which the convertible peso is valued 24 times higher than the “national” peso used only by Cubans. But it fills admirers of the island’s special charm with dread.
A typical lament is that while McDonald’s and other fast food outlets will proliferate, the trademark Cuban spectacle of vintage US cars may quickly fade.
“I share the fear that my fellow-Americans will want Cuba to be just another Cancun [a brash Mexican resort],” said Michael Faust, on a charitable mission from Colorado.
“I might have come just in time,” said Kevin Kent, a tourist from Canada. “I don’t dislike Americans, but worry that the ones who come here as things open up will be the ones with no education or too much, not those in between.”
Whether Cuba is ready to cope with an influx is another matter.
Internet access is rare, expensive and slow. Tourist accommodation is typically modest and sanitary arrangements – especially outside Havana – can be wretched.
Mr Kent was damning of his resort on Cayo Santa Maria, an island off Cuba’s northern coast: “It styles itself four-and-a-half stars but wouldn’t get three in North America.”
Shops are drab and poorly stocked, restaurants serve plain variations of meat or fish with rice and back beans and many ordinary Cubans, earning an average of US$20 (Dh73.50) a month in the public sector, must buy basic provisions at cut-price ration stores.
Many families rely on money sent from relatives who have settled abroad, especially in Miami.
Despite that, the island is alive with music, its people are warm and there are expanses of lush landscape and stretches of picturesque coastline. Yet residents who have contact with the western world are aware the island needs a makeover after more than a century of mismanagement under successive regimes.
“Socialism has not worked,” said Erik Garcia, 28, a tourist guide. “We tried too hard to copy the Soviet Union. It could be made to work, but only with big investment in infrastructure.”
“I am delighted with the warming of relations with the US but it is important that Cuba retains its Cuban identity.”
One part of Cuba that lost this identity a long time ago is Guantanamo Bay, where about 120 suspected extremists are still detained. The US aims to close the military prison but has no wish to abandon the naval base, leased since a treaty of 1903.
Only glimpses of the base are visible from Cuban soil, and then only through binoculars from an observatory off the main road leading to Guantanamo city.
Despite his mixed views on Cuba’s postrevolutionary progress, Mr Garcia wears his heart on his sleeve. “It is very emotional as a Cuban to stand here,” he said, looking out from the entrance of Fidel Castro’s headquarters. “It makes me proud, very proud, of what I am.”
foreign.desk@thenational.ae
Election pledges on migration
CDU: "Now is the time to control the German borders and enforce strict border rejections"
SPD: "Border closures and blanket rejections at internal borders contradict the spirit of a common area of freedom"
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
Fixtures
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The%20specs
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The%20specs
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
The biog
Name: Sari Al Zubaidi
Occupation: co-founder of Cafe di Rosati
Age: 42
Marital status: single
Favourite drink: drip coffee V60
Favourite destination: Bali, Indonesia
Favourite book: 100 Years of Solitude
Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor Cricket World Cup – Sep 16-20, Insportz, Dubai
16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side
8 There are eight players per team
9 There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.
5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls
4 Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership
Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.
Zones
A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs
B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run
C Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs
D Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full
The specs
Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel
Power: 579hp
Torque: 859Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh825,900
On sale: Now
MATCH INFO
Manchester City 0
Wolves 2 (Traore 80', 90 4')
Singham Again
Director: Rohit Shetty
Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone
Rating: 3/5
AT%20A%20GLANCE
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The%20specs
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