YONGDING, CHINA // The bus, loaded with farmers, produce and chickens, speeds along a bumpy mountain road in south-east China, passing rice, tea and tobacco fields.
Through the mist in the valley, the first magnificent circular structure emerges, followed by several more of the UFO-looking buildings.
Basically unknown outside the area until the second half of the 20th century, some 20,000 of these earthen buildings are scattered across the mountainous area, housing China's little-known Hakka people.
Their relative obscurity, however, appears about to end. In July, Unesco added 46 of the buildings, located in Yongding county, Fujian province, to its World Heritage List, a move that puts the site firmly on the international tourist map.
The Hakkas (literally "guest people") erected the first tulou, or earthen dwelling, about seven centuries ago. Descendants of Chinese born in the central plains of northern China, the Hakkas began to flee south in five migrations beginning in the fourth century. As outsiders, they were often vulnerable to attacks by neighbours, bandits and roving armies. To protect themselves, they built the sturdy structures, guarded by thick and high walls constructed with a mixture of fine sand, lime and soil. The structures have only one door and just a few windows high up in the wall, making them difficult to penetrate.
In his book China's Old Dwellings, Ronald Knapp, an expert on traditional Chinese architecture, said some of the walls reach 20 metres in height, six metres higher than the tallest parts of the Great Wall. The houses can accommodate as many as 1,000 people.
Mr Knapp, a professor emeritus at SUNY New Paltz, describes the Hakka fortresses as "extraordinary and quite unique".
"There is nothing like this anywhere in the world of this age," he said from his home in New York.
Huangxin Lou is a typical fortress. It contains a family altar in the centre, where weddings, funerals and other ceremonies are held. The first floor is where the kitchens are and where live animals are kept, the second floor is used to store grain and the third and fourth floors are where residents live. The majority of the doors are padlocked, a sign of the exodus that has occurred in recent years.
Little has changed over the centuries. Chickens and ducks continue to peck at husks of corn; firewood is piled high; baskets hang from the rafters and wet clothing is hung out to dry on rickety wooden poles. Old people sit on a bench just inside the door soaking up the warm sun, playing cards or peeling vegetables, while their grandchildren play nearby.
The customary Hakka emphasis on education is also apparent in these old houses. A xuetang, or study hall, is found in many of the larger buildings. The proud residents of Chengqi Lou, all surnamed Jiang, said their in-house school produced many scholars in the Qing dynasty. One man surnamed Jiang points proudly to pictures of members of the clan hanging on the wall, four of whom have earned doctorates from American universities.
Interestingly, locals believe that they owe their fame to weak-eyed Americans.
"We have to thank the American mistake," said Su Shengyun, a local resident, who goes on to tell the apocryphal tale of how US satellite analysts in 1985 spotted pictures of some odd-shaped buildings in the region, imagining them to be missile silos.
American military officers at the US Embassy in Beijing were reportedly immediately dispatched to Yongding, where they discovered that the "silos" were nothing more than tulou.
According to Mr Su, the disappointed officers returned to Beijing with tales of the spectacular buildings, and tourists and scholars were soon beating a path to the region, giving the impoverished area a new lease of life.
"If the tulou hadn't been picked up by the satellite photos and mistaken for missile silos," he said, "Yongding wouldn't be so famous today."
Unesco's awarding of the prestigious World Heritage status has recognised the value of the ancient structures, but it is also leading to concerns about whether the Hakka way of life, which is already fading fast, will survive its new prestige.
Zhang Jingwen, 27, who said he is the 26th generation to live in Huangxing Lou, explained that his ancestors left Jiangxi province centuries ago when disasters struck the area.
But of the more than 1,000 people who once resided here - all sharing the same surname and lineage - only about 30 are left. His family has already moved across the street to a modern home, renting out their former dwelling to tourists.
"Aside from old people and kids, no one is left," he said. "All the young people have left to find work. And most don't want to come back."
"No one wants to live in a tulou anymore, they're too inconvenient" said one young housewife, keeping an eye on her three-year-old son while she washes rice in a sink in the courtyard. "There are no toilets and so you have to go outside to relieve yourself." However, her family did not have the money to move out of the structure.
April Yip, a graduate of the Chinese University of Hong Kong, who spent months living in one of the houses while writing her master's thesis, said 120 people lived in Eryi Lou when she stayed there in 2005, but that the number has now fallen to 50.
She fears that rising tourism will "change the mentality of the local people" and their simple lifestyles and force more people to move.
"Tulous are supposed to be a place where people live," she said. "The real significance is in how people live here and not in what they sell to tourists.
"I really worry about what will happen now that this area has become a World Heritage site. Right now the only people living in the tulou are old people. What will happen when they're gone?"
The government has taken steps to limit the impact of tourism. Residents will be permitted to open restaurants and hotels, but they may no longer raise livestock or poultry - even the sale of souvenirs is to be limited, although during a recent visit, maps, guide books, tea and spices were proffered at the front gates of several homes.
Mr Knapp said protecting the sites will present a challenge.
"It's a Hobbesian dilemma," he said. "If you don't bring in tourists, there's no money. But if you do, there can be problems."
pmooney@thenational.ae
The specs
Engine: 77.4kW all-wheel-drive dual motor
Power: 320bhp
Torque: 605Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh219,000
On sale: Now
Abu Dhabi GP weekend schedule
Friday
First practice, 1pm
Second practice, 5pm
Saturday
Final practice, 2pm
Qualifying, 5pm
Sunday
Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (55 laps), 5.10pm
Europe’s rearming plan
- Suspend strict budget rules to allow member countries to step up defence spending
- Create new "instrument" providing €150 billion of loans to member countries for defence investment
- Use the existing EU budget to direct more funds towards defence-related investment
- Engage the bloc's European Investment Bank to drop limits on lending to defence firms
- Create a savings and investments union to help companies access capital
The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
Director: Laxman Utekar
Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna
Rating: 1/5
Mountain%20Boy
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The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
North Pole stats
Distance covered: 160km
Temperature: -40°C
Weight of equipment: 45kg
Altitude (metres above sea level): 0
Terrain: Ice rock
South Pole stats
Distance covered: 130km
Temperature: -50°C
Weight of equipment: 50kg
Altitude (metres above sea level): 3,300
Terrain: Flat ice
Test
Director: S Sashikanth
Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan
Star rating: 2/5
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
US%20federal%20gun%20reform%20since%20Sandy%20Hook
%3Cp%3E-%20April%2017%2C%202013%3A%20A%20bipartisan-drafted%20bill%20to%20expand%20background%20checks%20and%20ban%20assault%20weapons%20fails%20in%20the%20Senate.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20July%202015%3A%20Bill%20to%20require%20background%20checks%20for%20all%20gun%20sales%20is%20introduced%20in%20House%20of%20Representatives.%20It%20is%20not%20brought%20to%20a%20vote.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20June%2012%2C%202016%3A%20Orlando%20shooting.%20Barack%20Obama%20calls%20on%20Congress%20to%20renew%20law%20prohibiting%20sale%20of%20assault-style%20weapons%20and%20high-capacity%20magazines.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20October%201%2C%202017%3A%20Las%20Vegas%20shooting.%20US%20lawmakers%20call%20for%20banning%20bump-fire%20stocks%2C%20and%20some%20renew%20call%20for%20assault%20weapons%20ban.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20February%2014%2C%202018%3A%20Seventeen%20pupils%20are%20killed%20and%2017%20are%20wounded%20during%20a%20mass%20shooting%20in%20Parkland%2C%20Florida.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20December%2018%2C%202018%3A%20Donald%20Trump%20announces%20a%20ban%20on%20bump-fire%20stocks.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20August%202019%3A%20US%20House%20passes%20law%20expanding%20background%20checks.%20It%20is%20not%20brought%20to%20a%20vote%20in%20the%20Senate.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20April%2011%2C%202022%3A%20Joe%20Biden%20announces%20measures%20to%20crack%20down%20on%20hard-to-trace%20'ghost%20guns'.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20May%2024%2C%202022%3A%20Nineteen%20children%20and%20two%20teachers%20are%20killed%20at%20an%20elementary%20school%20in%20Uvalde%2C%20Texas.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E-%20June%2025%2C%202022%3A%20Joe%20Biden%20signs%20into%20law%20the%20first%20federal%20gun-control%20bill%20in%20decades.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
How to join and use Abu Dhabi’s public libraries
• There are six libraries in Abu Dhabi emirate run by the Department of Culture and Tourism, including one in Al Ain and Al Dhafra.
• Libraries are free to visit and visitors can consult books, use online resources and study there. Most are open from 8am to 8pm on weekdays, closed on Fridays and have variable hours on Saturdays, except for Qasr Al Watan which is open from 10am to 8pm every day.
• In order to borrow books, visitors must join the service by providing a passport photograph, Emirates ID and a refundable deposit of Dh400. Members can borrow five books for three weeks, all of which are renewable up to two times online.
• If users do not wish to pay the fee, they can still use the library’s electronic resources for free by simply registering on the website. Once registered, a username and password is provided, allowing remote access.
• For more information visit the library network's website.
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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
The Bio
Amal likes watching Japanese animation movies and Manga - her favourite is The Ancient Magus Bride
She is the eldest of 11 children, and has four brothers and six sisters.
Her dream is to meet with all of her friends online from around the world who supported her work throughout the years
Her favourite meal is pizza and stuffed vine leaves
She ams to improve her English and learn Japanese, which many animated programmes originate in
Huddersfield Town permanent signings:
- Steve Mounie (striker): signed from Montpellier for £11 million
- Tom Ince (winger): signed from Derby County for £7.7m
- Aaron Mooy (midfielder): signed from Manchester City for £7.7m
- Laurent Depoitre (striker): signed from Porto for £3.4m
- Scott Malone (defender): signed from Fulham for £3.3m
- Zanka (defender): signed from Copenhagen for £2.3m
- Elias Kachunga (winger): signed for Ingolstadt for £1.1m
- Danny WIlliams (midfielder): signed from Reading on a free transfer
THE%20JERSEYS
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Election pledges on migration
CDU: "Now is the time to control the German borders and enforce strict border rejections"
SPD: "Border closures and blanket rejections at internal borders contradict the spirit of a common area of freedom"
MIDWAY
Produced: Lionsgate Films, Shanghai Ryui Entertainment, Street Light Entertainment
Directed: Roland Emmerich
Cast: Ed Skrein, Woody Harrelson, Dennis Quaid, Aaron Eckhart, Luke Evans, Nick Jonas, Mandy Moore, Darren Criss
Rating: 3.5/5 stars
Dr Amal Khalid Alias revealed a recent case of a woman with daughters, who specifically wanted a boy.
A semen analysis of the father showed abnormal sperm so the couple required IVF.
Out of 21 eggs collected, six were unused leaving 15 suitable for IVF.
A specific procedure was used, called intracytoplasmic sperm injection where a single sperm cell is inserted into the egg.
On day three of the process, 14 embryos were biopsied for gender selection.
The next day, a pre-implantation genetic report revealed four normal male embryos, three female and seven abnormal samples.
Day five of the treatment saw two male embryos transferred to the patient.
The woman recorded a positive pregnancy test two weeks later.
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