Postcard from Amman: Threads and customers change for fabric mender


Khaled Yacoub Oweis
  • English
  • Arabic

Kamal Khalaf's tiny shop on Omar Khayyam Street, in central Amman, is one of the few places remaining in the region where cherished clothes and carpets can be carefully mended.

For the past five decades, Mr Khalaf has been a specialist in the intricate technique of darning – using special stitching to repair damaged fabric, one thread at a time, so the repair becomes all but invisible. Mending even a small tear can take hours.

In Britain, the practitioner of this craft is sometimes called a stoppeur, a French word. In Arabic the practitioner is called ratta.

"Darning needs cold nerves and a long breath," Mr Khalaf says.

He is among the last of a generation of established craftsmen in Amman, most of whom trace trace their origins to Palestine, Syria or Lebanon.

Migrants and refugees from these Levantine trading centres played a major role in the development of Jordan since its foundation as a British protectorate in 1921.

Simple tools

Now in his 70s, Mr Khalaf still operates from the same small shop he opened five decades ago on Omar Khayyam street in downtown Amman. His main tools are a needle, a clamp to stretch fabric, and thread.

He works at an old counter, sitting down, with clothes needing his attention hanging from the edges of a closet behind him, placed in plastic bags on shelves. Despite the physical demands of the work, his posture is upright, and he looks younger than his 72 years.

This week, one customer brought in the trousers of a dark blue suit that had a hole near the back pocket.

Mr Khalaf told the customer that he would charge five dinars ($7) – a considerable sum given that the average monthly wage in Jordan is $400.

The customer, however, agreed to it.

“It is not easy because the threads are nylon,” Mr Khalaf says.

He learnt his craft in the early 1970s as an apprentice, mending expensive rugs at one of Beirut’s top carpet dealers.

Mr Khalaf working at his shop. Photo: Khaled Yacoub Oweis / The National
Mr Khalaf working at his shop. Photo: Khaled Yacoub Oweis / The National

Mr Khalaf’s brother Fouad was studying commerce at Beirut Arab University and knew a Palestinian actor working in the city from Jaffa, the hometown of their father.

The actor was friends with a renowned carpet dealer, Mahmoud Maktabi, who agreed to take Mr Khalaf on as an apprentice at a workshop above his shop in the Hamra district in west Beirut.

“The Jaffa connection helped," says Mr Khalaf, adding that it is similar to old Beirut.

"It makes me sad to think of Beirut. It was the city of plenty."

The Lebanese capital was known as the Paris of the Middle East before the 1975-1990 civil war that tore it asunder.

Jordan, Mr Khalaf says, was “also different” before the national currency, the dinar, collapsed in 1989.

Quality deteriorates

In the 1970s and early 1980s, the clothes brought to his shop for mending were made from British textiles, he says, as opposed to the Chinese fabrics that are the norm today. Upper class families invited him to their homes to estimate how much heirloom carpets would cost to repair.

He declines to name his clients out of respect for their privacy, but says they include members of the Hashemite monarchy and merchant families of Amman.

“These customers used to order very fine fabrics from abroad," he says.

In the past decade, Jordan's economy has been stagnant. Unemployment, according to official figures, is more than 22 per cent.

The downtown area of Amman has changed, with family companies fragmenting and businesses moving to new parts of the capital in the 1980s. Now the area is run down and littered with rubbish, full of fast-food restaurants, shisha cafes and shops selling cheap souvenirs.

The four cinemas that were landmarks of central Amman, where Mr Khalaf watched the 1964 hit Hindi film Sangam, and Doctor Zhivago a year later, have all closed.

"I used to go regularly on the weekends," he says.

His father was a Palestinian refugee who fled Jaffa at the creation of Israel in 1948, while his mother fled Jerusalem. He is married to a Lebanese woman of Palestinian origin. They have four sons and a daughter, none of whom took up darning.

“We're a product of a mixed Middle East,” he says.

He visited Jaffa once, in 1976, after obtaining a permit from Israeli authorities.

"Even the oxygen in Jaffa was different," he says. "You can feel it is more pure when breathing."

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  • Mental well-being assistance
  • Insurance coverage for optical, dental, alternative medicine, cancer screening
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Red flags
  • Promises of high, fixed or 'guaranteed' returns.
  • Unregulated structured products or complex investments often used to bypass traditional safeguards.
  • Lack of clear information, vague language, no access to audited financials.
  • Overseas companies targeting investors in other jurisdictions - this can make legal recovery difficult.
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Courtesy: Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching

What the law says

Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.

“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.

“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”

If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.

Netherlands v UAE, Twenty20 International series

Saturday, August 3 - First T20i, Amstelveen
Monday, August 5 – Second T20i, Amstelveen​​​​​​​
Tuesday, August 6 – Third T20i, Voorburg​​​​​​​
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Date started: May 2018
Founder: Pir Arkam
Based: Dubai
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Staff: 18
Funding: Invested, supported and partnered by Joseph Group

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  • Authorisation for countries to inspect Iran Air Cargo and Islamic Republic of Iran Shipping Lines cargoes for banned goods
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When there is not enough housing, the Home Office can move people to hotels or large sites like former military bases.

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Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

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More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
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Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez

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Updated: January 12, 2024, 6:02 PM`