A book about a beauty product should, by rights, be only skin deep. However, Zahra Hankir’s Eyeliner: A Cultural History turns out to be a fascinating account. It traces the origins of this cosmetic, examines what it represents to different communities around the world, and explores how notable figures from Queen Nefertiti to Amy Winehouse used it to create a signature look.
Hankir, a Lebanese-British journalist, had one clear objective: “I wanted to demonstrate that there’s far more to eyeliner than meets the eye, pun very much intended,” she tells The National.
“Eyeliner originated in ancient Egypt before traversing the globe. It has been used for reasons that transcend the aesthetic – Egyptians wore it to ward off the evil eye, to honour the gods, to protect their eyes from the glare of the sun, and also to treat the eyes medicinally.
“In other cultures, particularly those in the East, eyeliner similarly takes on a deeper meaning,” she adds. “There is some intersectionality in how it’s used, also, making this a centuries-old tradition that unites diverse communities, especially those of the global south. I also wanted to deflect from the western gaze by celebrating the contributions of communities of colour to the beauty industry.”
Hankir’s book covers a lot of ground. After a chapter on eyeliner’s cultural significance in ancient and modern Egypt, she takes the reader far and wide. We meet the nomadic Wodaabe people in Chad, who in the past made kohl from crushed egret bones and burnt camel blood; dancers in Kerala who apply kajal; and geishas in Japan who wear mebari.
And then there are the book’s insightful sections on kohl in the Arab world. Hankir discusses its presence in Arab poetry, song and literature, and its acceptance in society.
“Per hadith, the Prophet Mohammed was said to have worn ithmid, a form of kohl, and also advised that others use it too for medicinal purposes,” Hankir says. “Different scholars interpret these references in different ways, but in general the use of ithmid has been a part of Islamic traditions for centuries and is therefore viewed as permissible in many Muslim countries.”
Despite this, Hankir points out that debates still continue about types of eyeliner and their use.
“In Iran, there’s an interesting tension between traditional use of sormeh, a natural kohl made from substances such as almonds and hazelnuts, and the contemporary use of liquid eyeliner, often imported from the West.
“This interplay is heightened in the context of strict regulations governing women’s appearance in the country. This situation presents a fine line, both symbolically and literally: while applying sormeh along the waterline might be deemed acceptable or halal, opting for a winged look with liquid eyeliner can be a bold, even provocative choice.”
Some of Hankir’s interviewees reveal how eyeliner preserves their heritage and helps bring out their inner strength.
“Cholas and Chicanas – Mexican Americans – use eyeliner as a tool to assert their aesthetic identities in the face of marginalisation,” Hankir says. “The Chola style, which also includes lip liner, emerged as a defiant response to the discrimination and prejudice faced by Mexicans following their arrival in the US, and a rejection of eurocentric beauty norms.
“This example speaks to the ethos of the book – the exploration of make-up not just as a cosmetic product, but as a tool of resilience, power and cultural affirmation.”
Hankir also shares her own personal experiences in the book. We learn how applying eyeliner for the first time as a shy and bullied adolescent in England allowed her to “come into focus”.
Her teenage “infatuation” with the ancient Egyptian Queen Nefertiti led to an interest in make-up and the realisation that kohl was not just an adornment for beautification but “a constant companion for the women in my family, one that protected and empowered my proud lineage”.
Hankir was 12 when her parents moved her and her five siblings back to Lebanon. She developed an interest in information-gathering and news dissemination and so later trained to become a journalist.
“I thought of journalists as heroes, and always imagined that I’d tell stories about my homeland,” she says. “Eventually I did, and though I have written about politics, business and finance, I eventually found myself drawn to culture stories, particularly those focused on the Middle East and North Africa.”
In 2019, Hankir edited Our Women on the Ground, an acclaimed anthology of essays by a selection of Arab and Middle East sahafiyat (female journalists).
“I made sure to include reporters from various nationalities, faiths and generations, each one practising different forms of journalism,” Hankir says. “I prioritised women who had encountered challenges in their reporting. These women unfortunately were not too hard to find given the region’s track record in press freedom and women’s rights, as well as widespread geopolitical and socioeconomic upheaval.”
Whether exploring womanhood through the prism of conflict or kohl, Hankir’s books are illuminating and far-reaching. As she writes in Eyeliner, the story of this humble accessory “is also the story of human ingenuity, resourcefulness, aspiration, and imagination”.
Eyeliner: A Cultural History by Zahra Hankir, published by Penguin Books, is out now
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Gender equality in the workplace still 200 years away
It will take centuries to achieve gender parity in workplaces around the globe, according to a December report from the World Economic Forum.
The WEF study said there had been some improvements in wage equality in 2018 compared to 2017, when the global gender gap widened for the first time in a decade.
But it warned that these were offset by declining representation of women in politics, coupled with greater inequality in their access to health and education.
At current rates, the global gender gap across a range of areas will not close for another 108 years, while it is expected to take 202 years to close the workplace gap, WEF found.
The Geneva-based organisation's annual report tracked disparities between the sexes in 149 countries across four areas: education, health, economic opportunity and political empowerment.
After years of advances in education, health and political representation, women registered setbacks in all three areas this year, WEF said.
Only in the area of economic opportunity did the gender gap narrow somewhat, although there is not much to celebrate, with the global wage gap narrowing to nearly 51 per cent.
And the number of women in leadership roles has risen to 34 per cent globally, WEF said.
At the same time, the report showed there are now proportionately fewer women than men participating in the workforce, suggesting that automation is having a disproportionate impact on jobs traditionally performed by women.
And women are significantly under-represented in growing areas of employment that require science, technology, engineering and mathematics skills, WEF said.
* Agence France Presse
The%20specs
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The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre 6-cyl turbo
Power: 435hp at 5,900rpm
Torque: 520Nm at 1,800-5,500rpm
Transmission: 9-speed auto
Price: from Dh498,542
On sale: now
ELIO
Starring: Yonas Kibreab, Zoe Saldana, Brad Garrett
Directors: Madeline Sharafian, Domee Shi, Adrian Molina
Rating: 4/5
Engine: 3.5-litre V6
Transmission: eight-speed automatic
Power: 290hp
Torque: 340Nm
Price: Dh155,800
On sale: now
THE BIO
Ambition: To create awareness among young about people with disabilities and make the world a more inclusive place
Job Title: Human resources administrator, Expo 2020 Dubai
First jobs: Co-ordinator with Magrudy Enterprises; HR coordinator at Jumeirah Group
Entrepreneur: Started his own graphic design business
Favourite singer: Avril Lavigne
Favourite travel destination: Germany and Saudi Arabia
Family: Six sisters
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Result
2.15pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,950m; Winner: Majestic Thunder, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).
2.45pm: Handicap Dh80,000 1,800m; Winner: Tailor’s Row, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.
3.15pm: Handicap Dh85,000 1,600m; Winner: Native Appeal, Adam McLean, Doug Watson.
3.45pm: Handicap Dh115,000 1,950m; Winner: Conclusion, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi.
4.15pm: Handicap Dh100,000 1,400m; Winner: Pilgrim’s Treasure, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar.
4.45pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,400m; Winner: Sanad Libya, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.
5.15pm: Handicap Dh90,000 1,000m; Winner: Midlander, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?
1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull
2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight
3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge
4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own
5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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United States
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China
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UAE
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Japan
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Norway
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Canada
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Singapore
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Australia
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Saudi Arabia
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South Korea
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UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Company%20profile
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RESULTS
%3Cp%3E%0D%3Cstrong%3E1.45pm%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Green%20Oasis%20Trading%20%E2%80%93%20Maiden%20(PA)%20Dh50%2C000%20(Dirt)%201%2C400m%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWinner%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Meeqat%2C%20Saif%20Al%20Balushi%20(jockey)%2C%20Khalifa%20Al%20Neyadi%20(trainer)%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E2.15pm%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAl%20Shafar%20Investment%20%E2%80%93%20Maiden%20(TB)%20Dh60%2C000%20(D)%201%2C400m%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWinner%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Flying%20Hunter%2C%20Ray%20Dawson%2C%20Ahmad%20bin%20Harmash%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E2.45pm%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EThe%20Union%2051%20Cup%20%E2%80%93%20Handicap%20(TB)%20Dh84%2C000%20(D)%201%2C400m%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWinner%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Ibra%20Attack%2C%20Adrie%20de%20Vries%2C%20Ahmed%20Al%20Shemaili%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E3.15pm%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20ASCANA%20Thakaful%20%E2%80%93%20Maiden%20(TB)%20Dh60%2C000%20(D)%201%2C200m%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWinner%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Onda%20Ruggente%2C%20Royston%20Ffrench%2C%20Salem%20bin%20Ghadayer%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E3.45pm%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ECommercial%20Bank%20of%20Dubai%20%E2%80%93%20Handicap%20(TB)%20Dh76%2C000%20(D)%201%2C200m%0D%3Cbr%3EWinner%3A%20Dignity%20Joy%2C%20Antonio%20Fresu%2C%20Musabah%20Al%20Muhairi%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E4.15pm%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDubai%20Real%20Estate%20Centre%20%E2%80%93%20Handicap%20(TB)%20Dh76%2C000%20(D)%201%2C600m%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWinner%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Tolmount%2C%20Xavier%20Ziani%2C%20Salem%20bin%20Ghadayer%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E4.45pm%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EJebel%20Ali%20Racecourse%20%E2%80%93%20Handicap%20(TB)%20Dh84%2C000%20(D)%201%2C950m%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWinner%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ERakeez%2C%20Tadhg%20O%E2%80%99Shea%2C%20Bhupat%20Seemar%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
- Do not drive outside designated lanes
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
JERSEY INFO
Red Jersey
General Classification: worn daily, starting from Stage 2, by the leader of the General Classification by time.
Green Jersey
Points Classification: worn daily, starting from Stage 2, by the fastest sprinter, who has obtained the best positions in each stage and intermediate sprints.
White Jersey
Young Rider Classification: worn daily, starting from Stage 2, by the best young rider born after January 1, 1995 in the overall classification by time (U25).
Black Jersey
Intermediate Sprint Classification: worn daily, starting from Stage 2, by the rider who has gained the most Intermediate Sprint Points.
