Postcard from Tunis: Inside the world's largest mosaic museum


Ghaya Ben Mbarek
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  • Arabic

Tunisia’s Bardo National Museum has finally reopened its doors to visitors following two years of closure.

Located in the suburbs of the capital Tunis, the museum holds 5,000 square metres of mosaics – the biggest collection in the world and the second largest collection of Roman mosaics.

The three-hectare attraction is a must-see for visitors to the country.

Officially opened on May 7, 1888, it is the second largest Greek artefacts museum in the African continent after Cairo’s national museum. It was originally named the Alaoui museum, after Tunisia’s reigning monarch at the time, Ali Bey.

It was not until March 1956 that it was renamed the Bardo National Museum.

“The pieces exhibited in the museum reflect the country’s history starting from the prehistoric era, ancient history, the Middle Ages and the modern historic phases with the Ottomans and Beys,” Zied Khalloufi, a researcher in history and archaeology, told The National.

The museum is housed in a 19th century royal palace once the home of Tunisian Beys – the rulers when the country was part of the Ottoman Empire – which has been deemed a national archaeological site.

The building’s architecture reflects the different Mediterranean influences in Tunisia at the time, namely Andalusian-Moorish and Ottoman, as well as Italian.

The collections, displayed on three floors divided into rooms and themed areas, chart the richness and diverse history of not only Tunisia but also North Africa.

Charting Tunisia's history

The Blue Quran papers, among the most famous works of Islamic calligraphy, features gold lettering on a rare indigo-coloured parchment. Ghaya Ben Mbarek / The National
The Blue Quran papers, among the most famous works of Islamic calligraphy, features gold lettering on a rare indigo-coloured parchment. Ghaya Ben Mbarek / The National

They start with the Numidian area, featuring engravings and sculptures that illustrate life in prehistoric Tunisia, including the beliefs, religions, scripts and languages.

The second room, the Punic section, includes offerings to the two main deities of ancient Carthage, Baal Hammon, the god of weather, and Tanit, the chief goddess of fertility.

“The Punic [section] reflects both the legacy of the native Tunisian Nubians and the Phenoecians who came and established Carthage later. This laid the ground for what we call now the Punic civilisation,” Mr Khalloufi told The National.

After its reopening in September, the Bardo Museum introduced a number of new areas such as the Althiburos room, which used to be the music room for Moncef Bey.

The room showcases a series of mosaics, including two that document the daily lives of the Punic people, showing ships and fishing techniques from Althiburos in the 4th century and the complete representation of a banquet in Carthage, also from the 4th century.

New departments, including the Islamic, Sousse and Oudhna sections, have been added.

In the Islamic section you can see the Blue Quran papers, among the most famous works of Islamic calligraphy, notable for its gold lettering on rare indigo-coloured parchment. It dates back to the 12th century.

The original manuscript, which was made in the Great Mosque of Kairouan and comprised about 600 pages, was dispersed during the Ottoman period and today most of it is in the Bardo Museum.

A world of mosaics

A mosaic painting showing the daily lives of people during the Roman era. This is part of a wider collection showcasing the richness and diverse history of not only Tunisia but also North Africa
A mosaic painting showing the daily lives of people during the Roman era. This is part of a wider collection showcasing the richness and diverse history of not only Tunisia but also North Africa

The museum's collection is notable for its richness and variety of themes. They include beliefs and mythology, time and the division of seasons, astrology, superstition and references to monotheistic religions such as Judaism and Christianity.

But the undisputed highlight of the Bardo Museum is its collection of mosaics.

“The museum's most unique feature is the collection of mosaics, which can only be seen there, namely the famous mosaic painting Virgil,” Mr Khalloufi said.

The mosaic was found on the site of the ancient Hadrumetum community, on the east coast of Tunisia. It is believed to be the oldest portrait of the Latin poet.

Another mosaic that commands visitor's attention as soon as they enter the museum’s hall is the Triumph of Neptune.

This Roman mosaic depicts the sea god surrounded by the four seasons. It dates from the third century and was discovered in Sousse, on the east coast of Tunisia.

New treasures to discover

The Roman coin treasure of Thysdrus (now El Jem). Excavated by Tunisian professor Mustapha Khanoussi in 1993, it is currently showcased at the Bardo Museum. Ghaya Ben Mbarek / The National.
The Roman coin treasure of Thysdrus (now El Jem). Excavated by Tunisian professor Mustapha Khanoussi in 1993, it is currently showcased at the Bardo Museum. Ghaya Ben Mbarek / The National.

New exhibits include the Roman coin treasure of Thysdrus (now El Jem) which was excavated by Tunisian professor Mustapha Khanoussi in 1993, and the two keys of the most ancient synagogue in Tunisia, the Naro synagogue (Hammam Lif today).

The Bardo Museum certainly offers a insight into Tunisia's multilayered cultural heritage, and has the potential to become an even bigger attraction for visitors from around the world.

“There’s still lots of heritage and historical pieces that exist in Tunisia and in order for people to know more about it, more conferences, open study days and exhibitions should take place regularly for both Tunisians and tourists to enjoy,” Mr Khalloufi said.

Then, he says, the Bardo Museum could become “one of the most important museums in Africa and, why not, in the world".

THE LIGHT

Director: Tom Tykwer

Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger

Rating: 3/5

RESULTS

5pm: Maiden | Dh80,000 |  1,600m
Winner: AF Al Moreeb, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer)

5.30pm: Handicap |  Dh80,000 |  1,600m
Winner: AF Makerah, Adrie de Vries, Ernst Oertel

6pm: Handicap |  Dh80,000 |  2,200m
Winner: Hazeme, Richard Mullen, Jean de Roualle

6.30pm: Handicap |  Dh85,000 |  2,200m
Winner: AF Yatroq, Brett Doyle, Ernst Oertel

7pm: Shadwell Farm for Private Owners Handicap |  Dh70,000 |  2,200m
Winner: Nawwaf KB, Patrick Cosgrave, Helal Al Alawi

7.30pm: Handicap (TB) |  Dh100,000 |  1,600m
Winner: Treasured Times, Bernardo Pinheiro, Rashed Bouresly

1,000 Books to Read Before You Die: A Life-Changing List
James Mustich, Workman

Dr Graham's three goals

Short term

Establish logistics and systems needed to globally deploy vaccines


Intermediate term

Build biomedical workforces in low- and middle-income nations


Long term

A prototype pathogen approach for pandemic preparedness  

Dust and sand storms compared

Sand storm

  • Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
  • Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
  • Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
  • Travel distance: Limited 
  • Source: Open desert areas with strong winds

Dust storm

  • Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
  • Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
  • Duration: Can linger for days
  • Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
  • Source: Can be carried from distant regions
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Key recommendations
  • Fewer criminals put behind bars and more to serve sentences in the community, with short sentences scrapped and many inmates released earlier.
  • Greater use of curfews and exclusion zones to deliver tougher supervision than ever on criminals.
  • Explore wider powers for judges to punish offenders by blocking them from attending football matches, banning them from driving or travelling abroad through an expansion of ‘ancillary orders’.
  • More Intensive Supervision Courts to tackle the root causes of crime such as alcohol and drug abuse – forcing repeat offenders to take part in tough treatment programmes or face prison.
ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.

The hotels

Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.

The tours

A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages. 

Five hymns the crowds can join in

Papal Mass will begin at 10.30am at the Zayed Sports City Stadium on Tuesday

Some 17 hymns will be sung by a 120-strong UAE choir

Five hymns will be rehearsed with crowds on Tuesday morning before the Pope arrives at stadium

‘Christ be our Light’ as the entrance song

‘All that I am’ for the offertory or during the symbolic offering of gifts at the altar

‘Make me a Channel of your Peace’ and ‘Soul of my Saviour’ for the communion

‘Tell out my Soul’ as the final hymn after the blessings from the Pope

The choir will also sing the hymn ‘Legions of Heaven’ in Arabic as ‘Assakiroo Sama’

There are 15 Arabic speakers from Syria, Lebanon and Jordan in the choir that comprises residents from the Philippines, India, France, Italy, America, Netherlands, Armenia and Indonesia

The choir will be accompanied by a brass ensemble and an organ

They will practice for the first time at the stadium on the eve of the public mass on Monday evening 

Specs

Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
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Price: On request

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About Krews

Founder: Ahmed Al Qubaisi

Based: Abu Dhabi

Founded: January 2019

Number of employees: 10

Sector: Technology/Social media 

Funding to date: Estimated $300,000 from Hub71 in-kind support

 

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Airev
Started: September 2023
Founder: Muhammad Khalid
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: Generative AI
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Core42
Current number of staff: 47
 
'THE WORST THING YOU CAN EAT'

Trans fat is typically found in fried and baked goods, but you may be consuming more than you think.

Powdered coffee creamer, microwave popcorn and virtually anything processed with a crust is likely to contain it, as this guide from Mayo Clinic outlines: 

Baked goods - Most cakes, cookies, pie crusts and crackers contain shortening, which is usually made from partially hydrogenated vegetable oil. Ready-made frosting is another source of trans fat.

Snacks - Potato, corn and tortilla chips often contain trans fat. And while popcorn can be a healthy snack, many types of packaged or microwave popcorn use trans fat to help cook or flavour the popcorn.

Fried food - Foods that require deep frying — french fries, doughnuts and fried chicken — can contain trans fat from the oil used in the cooking process.

Refrigerator dough - Products such as canned biscuits and cinnamon rolls often contain trans fat, as do frozen pizza crusts.

Creamer and margarine - Nondairy coffee creamer and stick margarines also may contain partially hydrogenated vegetable oils.

Company Profile

Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million

LA LIGA FIXTURES

Friday Valladolid v Osasuna (Kick-off midnight UAE)

Saturday Valencia v Athletic Bilbao (5pm), Getafe v Sevilla (7.15pm), Huesca v Alaves (9.30pm), Real Madrid v Atletico Madrid (midnight)

Sunday Real Sociedad v Eibar (5pm), Real Betis v Villarreal (7.15pm), Elche v Granada (9.30pm), Barcelona v Levante (midnight)

Monday Celta Vigo v Cadiz (midnight)

Updated: November 03, 2023, 6:00 PM`