Bilal Abu Khalaf provides material for Christian, Muslim and Jewish ceremonies from his shop in occupied East Jerusalem's Old City. Thomas Helm / The National
Bilal Abu Khalaf provides material for Christian, Muslim and Jewish ceremonies from his shop in occupied East Jerusalem's Old City. Thomas Helm / The National
Bilal Abu Khalaf provides material for Christian, Muslim and Jewish ceremonies from his shop in occupied East Jerusalem's Old City. Thomas Helm / The National
Bilal Abu Khalaf provides material for Christian, Muslim and Jewish ceremonies from his shop in occupied East Jerusalem's Old City. Thomas Helm / The National

Postcard from Jerusalem: The dealer who preserves fabrics of the Middle East


Thomas Helm
  • English
  • Arabic

Bilal Abu Khalaf is a host as much as he is a businessman.

His fabric shop in the Old City of occupied East Jerusalem is a frequent stop on visitors’ itineraries, being close to sites such as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Western Wall.

“It is mostly pilgrims here at the moment,” he explains, before the shop starts to get busy. “They buy small things, maybe five shekels ($1.3) or 10 shekels, mostly to give as gifts to people back home.”

Whether guests buy or not, Mr Abu Khalaf is more than happy to don his kaftan and fez for quarter of an hour to present his shop.

It is not a typical Jerusalem Old City sales pitch.

Cloth used in Christian vestments for different liturgical seasons. Thomas Helm / The National
Cloth used in Christian vestments for different liturgical seasons. Thomas Helm / The National

Some of the fabrics he unveils will be worth about $1,000 a square metre, far beyond the price of the purses, scarves and fabric-covered notebooks for which most customers make a beeline.

But Mr Abu Khalaf insists, nonetheless.

He is proud to show visitors the other side of his business: providing fabric for the garments of Jerusalem’s three main religious communities, examples of which take centre stage behind his main counter.

“Jews and Christians are my biggest religious customers,” he says, unfurling Damascus striped white and gold cotton and silk cloth from which ultra-Orthodox Jews cut robes for the Sabbath.

“I make a similar garment for Muslims – a kaftan – but in the case of the Jewish robe, customers mostly just buy the cloth from me which is then taken to one of about three tailors in Mea Shearim,” he explains.

The neighbourhood is the ultra-orthodox centre of Jerusalem. “Only the tailors there know the traditional specific type of sewing and diagonal strapping,” Mr Abu Khalaf says.

Bilal Abu Khalaf shows religious dress for a rabbi. Thomas Helm / The National
Bilal Abu Khalaf shows religious dress for a rabbi. Thomas Helm / The National

A cloak for a Sephardic rabbi is also hanging up, made of thick velvet-like fabric with complex gold patterns sewn over it.

“Christians tend to buy vestments that they donate to priests,” Mr Abu Khalaf says. “They come from all over the world.”

His shop has many different items for Catholics, Orthodox and protestant religious, and different colours for different liturgical seasons.

He then brings out a newspaper cutting of Pope Benedict XVI. “I supplied that fabric,” he says, bringing down yet another bolt, this time bright white stitched with 9 carat gold.

Fabric used for a papal robe. Thomas Helm / The National
Fabric used for a papal robe. Thomas Helm / The National

The fabric is also from Syria. It is becoming increasingly obvious that Mr Abu Khalaf’s shop is a something of a museum to the country’s textile industry, in both the visiting and preservation sense.

Mr Abu Khalaf finishes his presentation pulling out the most valuable reels in the shop. Highly ornate silk from Palmyra, in central Syria, which is also laced with gold thread, some of it 14 carats.

“This is more art, than religious,” he says.

One bolt depicts images of Saladin, the Muslim leader who took Jerusalem back from crusaders in 1187.

“Customers hang the fabric on the wall, wear it as an evening shawl and I’ve had it made into ties,” Mr Abu Khalaf says.

One of Bilal Abu Khalaf's most prized fabrics, featuring Muslim leader Saladin. Thomas Helm / The National
One of Bilal Abu Khalaf's most prized fabrics, featuring Muslim leader Saladin. Thomas Helm / The National

For now, it is uncertain if this particularly ornate and expensive Syrian fabric will be produced again.

The ancient city of Palmyra, first mentioned in documents dating back to the second millennium BC, was occupied by ISIS during the Libyan civil war. Much of its rich archaeological and cultural heritage was destroyed by the militants, before Syrian government forces drove them out in 2017.

“Palmyra is destroyed and none of this fabric is made right now,” Mr Abu Khalaf explains.

Fortunately, he heard rumours a month ago that the house factory in which it used to be produced might be coming back into operation.

And no matter the Middle East's troubles, Mr Abu Khalaf's shop and its decorative content are going nowhere.

“My eldest son is a doctor, so I’m teaching my youngest, who’s still at school, to love the shop like I do, so he can be the fourth generation of the family working with fabric,” he says.

The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
WOMAN AND CHILD

Director: Saeed Roustaee

Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi

Rating: 4/5

The specs: 2017 Maserati Quattroporte

Price, base / as tested Dh389,000 / Dh559,000

Engine 3.0L twin-turbo V8

Transmission Eight-speed automatic

Power 530hp @ 6,800rpm

Torque 650Nm @ 2,000 rpm

Fuel economy, combined 10.7L / 100km

Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

Available: Now

CRICKET%20WORLD%20CUP%20QUALIFIER%2C%20ZIMBABWE%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EUAE%20fixtures%20%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMonday%2C%20June%2019%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ESri%20Lanka%20v%20UAE%2C%20Queen%E2%80%99s%20Sports%20Club%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EWednesday%2C%20June%2021%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EOman%20v%20UAE%2C%20Bulawayo%20Athletic%20Club%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFriday%2C%20June%2023%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EScotland%20v%20UAE%2C%20Bulawayo%20Athletic%20Club%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ETuesday%2C%20June%2027%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EIreland%20v%20UAE%2C%20Bulawayo%20Athletic%20Club%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
​​​​​​​Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km

Sole survivors
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  • Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
ELIO

Starring: Yonas Kibreab, Zoe Saldana, Brad Garrett

Directors: Madeline Sharafian, Domee Shi, Adrian Molina

Rating: 4/5

BRIEF SCORES:

Toss: Nepal, chose to field

UAE 153-6: Shaiman (59), Usman (30); Regmi 2-23

Nepal 132-7: Jora 53 not out; Zahoor 2-17

Result: UAE won by 21 runs

Series: UAE lead 1-0

EA Sports FC 25
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Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products

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Getting%20there%20and%20where%20to%20stay
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1799 - First small pox vaccine administered

1846 - First public demonstration of anaesthesia in surgery

1861 - Louis Pasteur published his germ theory which proved that bacteria caused diseases

1895 - Discovery of x-rays

1923 - Heart valve surgery performed successfully for first time

1928 - Alexander Fleming discovers penicillin

1953 - Structure of DNA discovered

1952 - First organ transplant - a kidney - takes place 

1954 - Clinical trials of birth control pill

1979 - MRI, or magnetic resonance imaging, scanned used to diagnose illness and injury.

1998 - The first adult live-donor liver transplant is carried out

Volvo ES90 Specs

Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)

Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp

Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm

On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region

Price: Exact regional pricing TBA

Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
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  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Global state-owned investor ranking by size

1.

United States

2.

China

3.

UAE

4.

Japan

5

Norway

6.

Canada

7.

Singapore

8.

Australia

9.

Saudi Arabia

10.

South Korea

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Director: Brady Corbet

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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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THE BIO

Favourite book: ‘Purpose Driven Life’ by Rick Warren

Favourite travel destination: Switzerland

Hobbies: Travelling and following motivational speeches and speakers

Favourite place in UAE: Dubai Museum

Who is Allegra Stratton?

 

  • Previously worked at The Guardian, BBC’s Newsnight programme and ITV News
  • Took up a public relations role for Chancellor Rishi Sunak in April 2020
  • In October 2020 she was hired to lead No 10’s planned daily televised press briefings
  • The idea was later scrapped and she was appointed spokeswoman for Cop26
  • Ms Stratton, 41, is married to James Forsyth, the political editor of The Spectator
  • She has strong connections to the Conservative establishment
  • Mr Sunak served as best man at her 2011 wedding to Mr Forsyth
Real estate tokenisation project

Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.

The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.

Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.

Updated: September 24, 2023, 8:52 AM`