A journey into the desert (and the past) to the hidden gem of Al Sila


Anjana Sankar
  • English
  • Arabic

Nestled in the rolling dunes of the Arabian Desert lies the town of Al Sila, a hidden gem 350km west of Abu Dhabi in Al Dhafra.

Insulated from the hustle and bustle of city life, it feels as if time slows down when you are in Al Sila.

For tourists eager to experience life in the western region of Abu Dhabi that borders Saudi Arabia, the town offers an interesting mix of heritage, culture and a rustic way of life.

The vast stretches of the desert make it a perfect place for camping, with spots in and around Al Sila where you can pitch tents and enjoy the tranquillity of the desert under the night sky.

Not far from the town centre is one of the most prized heritage assets of Al Sila — a 200-year-old Ghaf tree. Locals call it the "Shabhana tree".

“This is the most famous landmark in Sila. The late Sheikh Zayed used to visit it often, and it is an important part of our heritage,” said an Emirati man who drove us to the spot.

Considered one of the oldest and the largest such trees, it stands in the middle of a lush and gated 300-hectare forest.

Access is denied to the public and visitors can catch only a glimpse of the tree that towers over the surrounding foliage. But only from a distance.

A caretaker leads camels through the desert at Madinat Zayed, in Abu Dhabi's Al Dhafra region. Khushnum Bhandari / The National
A caretaker leads camels through the desert at Madinat Zayed, in Abu Dhabi's Al Dhafra region. Khushnum Bhandari / The National

A visit to Al Sila is incomplete without going to the camel races.

Camel rearing and racing are an integral part of the Bedouin culture in Abu Dhabi, and Al Sila is one of the most famous camel racing destinations in the western region.

Taha, a caretaker at the camel racetrack, said about 200 camel owners gather daily at the track for practice sessions.

“During the season, the tracks get really busy as camels from different parts of Abu Dhabi, and even from neighbouring Saudi Arabia, come to take part in races,” he said.

Population of 8,000

But during Ramadan, the town appears deserted and its small community of about 8,000 people mostly stays indoors.

As is the case with any other part of the UAE, Al Sila’s population is a mix of Emiratis and foreign residents.

Most non-Emiratis are employed in supermarkets and shops, and also the oil refinery in Ruwais, about 80km away.

Ruwais, Madinat Zayed, Liwa, Mirfa and Ghayathi, as well as Delma Island, are other neighbouring towns.

Marjan Khan, a Pakistani resident of Al Sila for the past 14 years, says the town has undergone a facelift since he came.

“I came to Al Sila in 2009. There were no big houses or these shiny buildings. The main streets were tarred but just two lanes,” Mr Khan, who runs Al Gharbeya Furnishings and Spreads, told The National.

He said his father, Yaar Mohammed, who opened the shop, died in 2014, leaving the business to him.

“Since Covid, business is dull. I am struggling to make ends meet. I hardly have any customers these days,” he said.

In one part of the town, a cluster of modern two-storey houses dots the area.

A municipality officer who did not want to be quoted said many new projects had come up recently.

“We are building amenities to add to the quality of life in Al Sila. There is a private ladies' beach, which is very popular,” he said.

The beach for women stretches over 18.3km and the area has restaurants, shops, swimming pools and basketball courts.

A new hospital, a school, a police station and shops have also been built.

A new cycling and running track is being built that will stretch from the town's centre to the public beach.

“Once completed, the running and cycling track will help residents enjoy the outdoors and encourage them to lead a healthy lifestyle,” the officer said.

Al Sila public park is a sprawling green space in the heart of the town centre and is a popular, family-friendly spot.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo

Power: 178hp at 5,500rpm

Torque: 280Nm at 1,350-4,200rpm

Transmission: seven-speed dual-clutch auto

Price: from Dh209,000 

On sale: now

The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
The specs

Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors

Power: Combined output 920hp

Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic

Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km

On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025

Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000

How to apply for a drone permit
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What are the regulations?
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Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

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Recycle Reuse Repurpose

New central waste facility on site at expo Dubai South area to  handle estimated 173 tonne of waste generated daily by millions of visitors

Recyclables such as plastic, paper, glass will be collected from bins on the expo site and taken to the new expo Central Waste Facility on site

Organic waste will be processed at the new onsite Central Waste Facility, treated and converted into compost to be re-used to green the expo area

Of 173 tonnes of waste daily, an estimated 39 per cent will be recyclables, 48 per cent  organic waste  and 13 per cent  general waste.

About 147 tonnes will be recycled and converted to new products at another existing facility in Ras Al Khor

Recycling at Ras Al Khor unit:

Plastic items to be converted to plastic bags and recycled

Paper pulp moulded products such as cup carriers, egg trays, seed pots, and food packaging trays

Glass waste into bowls, lights, candle holders, serving trays and coasters

Aim is for 85 per cent of waste from the site to be diverted from landfill 

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Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction

Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.

Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.

Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.

Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.

Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.

What are the guidelines?

Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.

Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.

Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.

Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.

Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.

Source: American Paediatric Association
How to wear a kandura

Dos

  • Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion 
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Don’ts 

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The specs
Engine: 2.5-litre, turbocharged 5-cylinder

Transmission: seven-speed auto

Power: 400hp

Torque: 500Nm

Price: Dh300,000 (estimate)

On sale: 2022 

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2014 Lia Saad  (UAE)

2015 Cynthia Farah (Australia)

2016 Yosmely Massaad (Venezuela)

2017 Dima Safi (Ivory Coast)

2018 Rachel Younan (Australia)

The Specs

Price, base Dh379,000
Engine 2.9-litre, twin-turbo V6
Gearbox eight-speed automatic
Power 503bhp
Torque 443Nm
On sale now

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The smuggler

Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple. 
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.

Khouli conviction

Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.

For sale

A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.

- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico

- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000

- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950

What are the main cyber security threats?

Cyber crime - This includes fraud, impersonation, scams and deepfake technology, tactics that are increasingly targeting infrastructure and exploiting human vulnerabilities.
Cyber terrorism - Social media platforms are used to spread radical ideologies, misinformation and disinformation, often with the aim of disrupting critical infrastructure such as power grids.
Cyber warfare - Shaped by geopolitical tension, hostile actors seek to infiltrate and compromise national infrastructure, using one country’s systems as a springboard to launch attacks on others.

Updated: April 14, 2023, 6:00 PM`