Jordanian leather maker Ahmad Maghribi learnt his craft by watching YouTube videos before opening his shop in an old district of Amman four years ago.
He makes wallets, pouches and bags designed by him and his wife, from Turkish leather tanned at a factory in Hebron.
Mr Maghribi’s merchandise is pricier than the mass Chinese-produced goods in the market. His customer base is also limited by rough economic conditions in Jordan, and at least 23 per cent unemployment.
But business has picked up since European budget airlines sharply increased the number of flights to the country last year, after authorities lifted Covid-19 restrictions.
A few weeks ago, a tourist from Venice bought a dark brown backpack with exterior pockets from Mr Maghribi.
Worth $225, it was the most expensive item in the shop.
“He was so happy that the backpack was made in Jordan that he went out of the shop wearing it,” says Mr Maghribi.
The threefold increase in budget airline traffic — mainly driven by Ryanair, and easyJet and Wizz Air to a lesser extent — to 77 flights a week has brought in a cross-section of western visitors and much-needed hard currency to Jordan’s stagnant economy.
It has spurred the development of businesses catering to the new arrivals — from hostels and trinkets to bespoke goods — although Jordan is one of the most expensive countries in the Middle East.
The kingdom’s relatively closed society has also been put in direct contact with people from across the continent, with Ryanair flying to Amman from Bologna, Brussels, Bucharest, Budapest, Krakow, Vienna, Paris, Madrid and 10 other European cities.
German tourist Anna Richard took a bus with her four-member family from Berlin to the Polish city of Poznan and flew from there to Amman on Ryanair.
They saved two thirds of the ticket price, compared with Lufthansa.
“Flying Lufthansa often means changing in Frankfurt, which is a nightmare. The new Berlin airport is also far away,” she says, referring to the airport on the eastern outskirts of the city.
“We wanted a biblical-archaeological trip, with time to relax at the Dead Sea, and we did not want to go to Israel,” Ms Richard says.
She says she was struck by “how expensive Jordan is”. The €75 ($79.42) entry fee for Petra, she says, was not worth it, given how commercialised the site has become.
But Wadi Rum, she says, remains for her one of the three most beautiful places in the world, together with Tibet and northern Switzerland.
Regional factors
The new appetite for Jordan is also linked to the upheaval that swept Syria and Lebanon over the past decade.
Chaos caused by financial meltdown in Lebanon and the civil war in Syria left Europeans keen on travelling to the Levant with little choice other than to make Jordan their primary destination.
Some come seeking a detailed introduction to Jordan's Roman sites. Others are more interested in hiking in the Wadi Rum desert valley or spending a few days floating in the Dead Sea.
Amman has also become a centre to study Arabic, largely taking the position Damascus held before the 2011 revolt against five decades of Assad family rule.
Many young westerners with tourist visas extend their stay in Jordan to learn the language from private teachers or at several private academies.
However, protests and riots in December over unemployment and rising prices caused a dip in tourism activity before demand appeared to rebound, travel agents say.
The unrest was mainly in the south, where Petra and Wadi Rum are located, and resulted in the death of four police officers.
“We saw a decline in booking but it seems to have been temporary,” says an industry executive in Amman.
Government data shows that the number of foreign visitors to Petra quadrupled last year to 670,000, compared with 2021.
European arrivals, according to the central bank, rose to 304,000 in the first nine months of last year, from 142,000 in 2021.
“Low-cost passengers tend to spend less on the airline tickets, spend more during their visit and stay longer,” says Tourism Ministry spokesman Ahmad Rifai.
He says 40 per cent of European tourists arrive on low-cost flights.
Before Ryanair and the other budget airlines started flying to Jordan in 2018, the kingdom mainly received tourists travelling in groups who followed a rigid itinerary, stayed at large hotels and were taken mainly to the more famous sites in the country, with little interaction with Jordanians.
But now, “everyone is coming to Jordan,” says businessman Madian Al Jazira, who owns Books@Cafe, a franchise with two locations in Amman and the main destination for young Jordanian residents and visitors.
“There [are] lots of foreign individual travellers and they really have [affected] the economy,” says Mr Jazira. “Many are mingling with the people and a cultural exchange is happening.”
“Jordanians are also now able to travel more and get more out of their buck,” he says. “They becoming more exposed and, hence, becoming more tolerant.”
Improved city centre
A new hand-woven rug store opened recently to the left of Mr Maghribi’s leather goods shop. On the right, Abu Ahmad, Amman’s oldest shoe makers, gave his shop a makeover.
The facelift helped to attract Europeans who had been ordering his made-to-measure shoes.
“I rarely had foreigners come in and buy my shoes before,” he says. “If they don’t have time, they ask me to ship it to their home address.”
In the nearby centre of Amman, the new tourists have helped somewhat revive the area, which dates back to the 1920s. The area has been run down since many businesses left in the late 1980s and moved to newer parts in the western regions of the capital.
Some abandoned buildings have been converted into cheap hotels while the premises of closed businesses became souvenir shops.
Trinket shop owner Raed says many of his western customers buy key rings and other small items because they travel only with hand luggage, to save on ticket fares.
But he still receives more discerning clientele who fly Ryanair but look for quality items such as Jordanian embroidery and Hebron-made ceramics, of which he has run out of stock.
$1,000 award for 1,000 days on madrasa portal
Daily cash awards of $1,000 dollars will sweeten the Madrasa e-learning project by tempting more pupils to an education portal to deepen their understanding of math and sciences.
School children are required to watch an educational video each day and answer a question related to it. They then enter into a raffle draw for the $1,000 prize.
“We are targeting everyone who wants to learn. This will be $1,000 for 1,000 days so there will be a winner every day for 1,000 days,” said Sara Al Nuaimi, project manager of the Madrasa e-learning platform that was launched on Tuesday by the Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, to reach Arab pupils from kindergarten to grade 12 with educational videos.
“The objective of the Madrasa is to become the number one reference for all Arab students in the world. The 5,000 videos we have online is just the beginning, we have big ambitions. Today in the Arab world there are 50 million students. We want to reach everyone who is willing to learn.”
Kanguva
Director: Siva
Stars: Suriya, Bobby Deol, Disha Patani, Yogi Babu, Redin Kingsley
Brief scores:
Toss: South Africa, chose to field
Pakistan: 177 & 294
South Africa: 431 & 43-1
Man of the Match: Faf du Plessis (South Africa)
Series: South Africa lead three-match series 2-0
Results
6.30pm: Baniyas (PA) Group 2 Dh195,000 1,400m | Winner: ES Ajeeb, Sam Hitchcock (jockey), Ibrahim Aseel (trainer)
7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 1,400m | Winner: Al Shamkhah, Royston Ffrench, Sandeep Jadhav
7.40pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 1,200m | Winner: Lavaspin, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
8.15pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 1,200m | Winner: Kawasir, Dane O’Neill, Musabah Al Muhairi
8.50pm: Rated Conditions (TB) Dh240,000 1,600m | Winner: Cosmo Charlie, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson
9.20pm: Handicap (TB) Dh165,000 1,400m | Winner: Bochart, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
10pm: Handicap (TB) Dh175,000 2,000m | Winner: Quartier Francais, Fernando Jara, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
SEMI-FINAL
Monterrey 1
Funes Mori (14)
Liverpool 2
Keita (11), Firmino (90 1)
MATCH INFO
Inter Milan 2 (Vecino 65', Barella 83')
Verona 1 (Verre 19' pen)
MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW
Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman
Director: Jesse Armstrong
Rating: 3.5/5
'Manmarziyaan' (Colour Yellow Productions, Phantom Films)
Director: Anurag Kashyap
Cast: Abhishek Bachchan, Taapsee Pannu, Vicky Kaushal
Rating: 3.5/5
Key features of new policy
Pupils to learn coding and other vocational skills from Grade 6
Exams to test critical thinking and application of knowledge
A new National Assessment Centre, PARAKH (Performance, Assessment, Review and Analysis for Holistic Development) will form the standard for schools
Schools to implement online system to encouraging transparency and accountability
One in nine do not have enough to eat
Created in 1961, the World Food Programme is pledged to fight hunger worldwide as well as providing emergency food assistance in a crisis.
One of the organisation’s goals is the Zero Hunger Pledge, adopted by the international community in 2015 as one of the 17 Sustainable Goals for Sustainable Development, to end world hunger by 2030.
The WFP, a branch of the United Nations, is funded by voluntary donations from governments, businesses and private donations.
Almost two thirds of its operations currently take place in conflict zones, where it is calculated that people are more than three times likely to suffer from malnutrition than in peaceful countries.
It is currently estimated that one in nine people globally do not have enough to eat.
On any one day, the WFP estimates that it has 5,000 lorries, 20 ships and 70 aircraft on the move.
Outside emergencies, the WFP provides school meals to up to 25 million children in 63 countries, while working with communities to improve nutrition. Where possible, it buys supplies from developing countries to cut down transport cost and boost local economies.
Our legal columnist
Name: Yousef Al Bahar
Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994
Marital status: Single
Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers
Gothia Cup 2025
4,872 matches
1,942 teams
116 pitches
76 nations
26 UAE teams
15 Lebanese teams
2 Kuwaiti teams
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
Women%E2%80%99s%20T20%20World%20Cup%20Qualifier
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if you go
The flights
Direct flights from the UAE to the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu, are available with Air Arabia, (www.airarabia.com) Fly Dubai (www.flydubai.com) or Etihad (www.etihad.com) from Dh1,200 return including taxes. The trek described here started from Jomson, but there are many other start and end point variations depending on how you tailor your trek. To get to Jomson from Kathmandu you must first fly to the lake-side resort town of Pokhara with either Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) or Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com). Both charge around US$240 (Dh880) return. From Pokhara there are early morning flights to Jomson with Yeti Airlines or Simrik Airlines (www.simrikairlines.com) for around US$220 (Dh800) return.
The trek
Restricted area permits (US$500 per person) are required for trekking in the Upper Mustang area. The challenging Meso Kanto pass between Tilcho Lake and Jomson should not be attempted by those without a lot of mountain experience and a good support team. An excellent trekking company with good knowledge of Upper Mustang, the Annaurpuna Circuit and Tilcho Lake area and who can help organise a version of the trek described here is the Nepal-UK run Snow Cat Travel (www.snowcattravel.com). Prices vary widely depending on accommodation types and the level of assistance required.
UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
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A little about CVRL
Founded in 1985 by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, the Central Veterinary Research Laboratory (CVRL) is a government diagnostic centre that provides testing and research facilities to the UAE and neighbouring countries.
One of its main goals is to provide permanent treatment solutions for veterinary related diseases.
The taxidermy centre was established 12 years ago and is headed by Dr Ulrich Wernery.
Top investing tips for UAE residents in 2021
Build an emergency fund: Make sure you have enough cash to cover six months of expenses as a buffer against unexpected problems before you begin investing, advises Steve Cronin, the founder of DeadSimpleSaving.com.
Think long-term: When you invest, you need to have a long-term mindset, so don’t worry about momentary ups and downs in the stock market.
Invest worldwide: Diversify your investments globally, ideally by way of a global stock index fund.
Is your money tied up: Avoid anything where you cannot get your money back in full within a month at any time without any penalty.
Skip past the promises: “If an investment product is offering more than 10 per cent return per year, it is either extremely risky or a scam,” Mr Cronin says.
Choose plans with low fees: Make sure that any funds you buy do not charge more than 1 per cent in fees, Mr Cronin says. “If you invest by yourself, you can easily stay below this figure.” Managed funds and commissionable investments often come with higher fees.
Be sceptical about recommendations: If someone suggests an investment to you, ask if they stand to gain, advises Mr Cronin. “If they are receiving commission, they are unlikely to recommend an investment that’s best for you.”
Get financially independent: Mr Cronin advises UAE residents to pursue financial independence. Start with a Google search and improve your knowledge via expat investing websites or Facebook groups such as SimplyFI.
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
GOLF’S RAHMBO
- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)
Tearful appearance
Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday.
Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow.
She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.
A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.
The%20specs
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ENGLAND SQUAD
Goalkeepers Henderson, Johnstone, Pickford, Ramsdale
Defenders Alexander-Arnold, Chilwell, Coady, Godfrey, James, Maguire, Mings, Shaw, Stones, Trippier, Walker, White
Midfielders Bellingham, Henderson, Lingard, Mount, Phillips, Rice, Ward-Prowse
Forwards Calvert-Lewin, Foden, Grealish, Greenwood, Kane, Rashford, Saka, Sancho, Sterling, Watkins
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
BACK%20TO%20ALEXANDRIA
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2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.
HOW%20TO%20ACTIVATE%20THE%20GEMINI%20SHORTCUT%20ON%20CHROME%20CANARY
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
FA Cup semi-finals
Saturday: Manchester United v Tottenham Hotspur, 8.15pm (UAE)
Sunday: Chelsea v Southampton, 6pm (UAE)
Matches on Bein Sports
IF YOU GO
The flights: FlyDubai offers direct flights to Catania Airport from Dubai International Terminal 2 daily with return fares starting from Dh1,895.
The details: Access to the 2,900-metre elevation point at Mount Etna by cable car and 4x4 transport vehicle cost around €57.50 (Dh248) per adult. Entry into Teatro Greco costs €10 (Dh43). For more go to www.visitsicily.info
Where to stay: Hilton Giardini Naxos offers beachfront access and accessible to Taormina and Mount Etna. Rooms start from around €130 (Dh561) per night, including taxes.
SPECS
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Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
RIDE%20ON
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