Chic Nonna review: Flavours of Italy fabulously reimagined


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If the word "nonna" conjures up images of old, endearing Italian grandmas who serve up well-meaning plates of stodgy goodness, you will reconsider your definition on entering the bustling Italian restaurant Chic Nonna, which opened at DIFC Gate Avenue in August.

Brought to Dubai by the Mine & Yours hospitality group, Chic Nonna’s culinary team is led by executive chef Vito Mollica and head chef Ilaria Zamperlin, who try to uphold and share Italian gastronomic traditions through improvement.

What to expect and where to sit

The huge restaurant space has a dining room, plus a 'living room' on the second storey
The huge restaurant space has a dining room, plus a 'living room' on the second storey

Placed behind a conspicuous, huge green door, the stylish foyer manages to effectively conceal capacious floors. The contemporary Art Deco interiors are angular, crisp, timeless and welcoming.

The two-storey gourmet osteria has abundant seating options, as founder Piero Giglio says the team wanted to recreate the atmosphere of South Italy’s lush mansions.

With my mind occupied with thoughts of the wealthy Medicis, I am seated suitably before a beautiful open-plan kitchen.

On the second storey is the “living room” or il salotto, with a crudo bar and views of Burj Khalifa.

Guests can retreat here after dinner to further enjoy a languid evening listening to warm analogue sounds from the marble DJ booth.

The menu

Chic Nonna acquired the world's largest piece of white truffle, at a massive 450g, in November
Chic Nonna acquired the world's largest piece of white truffle, at a massive 450g, in November

I begin my meal with the traditional focaccia de recco (Dh85). This warm flatbread is the opposite of the pillowy focaccia served at most places, with its thin unleavened dough enveloping salty crescenza cheese.

The fire-blistered surface is topped with shaved truffle and makes for a delicious start.

The tomato carpaccio (Dh60) reveals a colourful collection of thinly sliced heirloom tomatoes.

The sweet and sour set is coupled with gazpacho dressing, confited datterini tomatoes and a bundle of buffalo figliata. It’s a sprightly and light vegetarian option.

Next come the mazzancolla prawns (Dh125), a Sicilian caponata with poached San Marza prawns. One of the region's quintessential dishes, it features mixed vegetables.

The flavours are marvellous and the caponata is a dance of acid and caramel sweetness, finessed with raisins, pine nuts and a pop of mint — all attributes of an Arabian influence.

I notice the plates feature a delicate design with a border that’s the same British racing green colour that dominates the restaurant.

I am informed with great pride these are hand-made by the house of Richard Ginori, which has been operating in Florence since 1735.

On this porcelain perfection comes the vitello tonnato (Dh110), a sublime plate of thinly sliced veal covered in a decadent tuna-flavoured mayonnaise, topped with peppers stuffed with tuna, crowned with an anchovy and flanked by lilting quail eggs.

This is pure indulgence, skilfully manoeuvred to combine tradition with novelty.

Next, I try the pastas. In the duck plin ravioli al tovagliolo (Dh135), the ravioli charmingly come nestled in linen napkins, with a moist and moreish filling and delectable butter, sage and jus.

The cavatelli dello chef (Dh210) is a refined cacio e pepe, the spaghetti dish, with tender baby squid and red prawns. The dish is gentler because of the addition of the seafood and every bite is coated in a silken sauce.

Finally comes the quail and asparagus (Dh210), a roulade of quail stuffed with truffled liver page that, impressively, does not overwhelm the dish. The potato puree acts like a second sauce in a dish singing with flavour.

The torta della nonna (Dh60) is a great dessert for sharing. A scrumptious short-crust pastry shell filled with warm vanilla custard, it is topped with a crumble and with pine nut praline within.

These improvements create balance in an otherwise heavy dessert, finished at Chic Nonna with lemon accents and an intense vanilla ice cream.

The tiramisu (Dh65), too, is memorable, with its smooth layer of coffee cremeux, saturated savoiardi biscuits and a mascarpone zabaglione set in fluffy clouds, speckled with dark chocolate crispearls and gold leaf.

Standout dish

The veal tonnato is the dish I would return for. The sauce is rich and flavourful, adorned with sweet piquillo peppers, and the quail yolks add another buttery element.

A chat with the chef

Chef Mollica is originally from Basilicata and has been living in Florence for the last 15 years. When Chic Nonna’s investors decided Dubai was the best city to set up a “lifestyle restaurant”, they brought Mollica on board.

The chef describes his cooking style as simple, using techniques “not to overpower or overwork, but rather highlight the ingredient”.

Accordingly, his favourite ingredient changes seasonally. “My favourite products are vegetables like asparagus, artichokes and chicory, mushrooms because they highlight the seasonal changes in flavour.

“As chefs, we are ambassadors of our countries and our families. We have an opportunity to talk about our traditions with our food, and convey who we are and where we come from.”

Other than the dishes I tried, the chef recommends the Sicilian Caponata minus the prawns for vegetarians; lasagne with venison ragu for meat lovers; and grilled Galician langoustine for pescatarians.

Price point and contact information

The menu comprises starters and salads (Dh60-Dh125); pizza and rosticceria (Dh85-Dh190); pasta (Dh90-Dh270); and mains (Dh155-Dh300). Desserts are between Dh60 and Dh65 each.

Chic Nonna is in Dubai International Financial Centre, and is open noon-3pm and 7pm-3am. Tables can be booked by contacting 04 605 2000 or reservations@chicnonna.com.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

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The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Some of Darwish's last words

"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008

His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.

Results

4.30pm Jebel Jais – Maiden (PA) Dh60,000 (Turf) 1,000m; Winner: MM Al Balqaa, Bernardo Pinheiro (jockey), Qaiss Aboud (trainer)

5pm: Jabel Faya – Maiden (PA) Dh60,000 (T) 1,000m; Winner: AF Rasam, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel

5.30pm: Al Wathba Stallions Cup – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 2,200m; Winner: AF Mukhrej, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel

6pm: The President’s Cup Prep – Conditions (PA) Dh100,000 (T) 2,200m; Winner: Mujeeb, Richard Mullen, Salem Al Ketbi

6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club – Prestige (PA) Dh125,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Jawal Al Reef, Antonio Fresu, Abubakar Daud

7pm: Al Ruwais – Group 3 (PA) Dh300,000 (T) 1,200m; Winner: Ashton Tourettes, Pat Dobbs, Ibrahim Aseel

7.30pm: Jebel Hafeet – Maiden (TB) Dh80,000 (T) 1,400m; Winner: Nibraas, Richard Mullen, Nicholas Bachalard

TOURNAMENT INFO

Opening fixtures:
Friday, Oct 5

8pm: Kabul Zwanan v Paktia Panthers

Saturday, Oct 6
4pm: Nangarhar Leopards v Kandahar Knights
8pm: Kabul Zwanan v Balkh Legends

Tickets
Tickets can be bought online at https://www.q-tickets.com/apl/eventlist and at the ticket office at the stadium.

TV info
The tournament will be broadcast live in the UAE on OSN Sports.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
Jebel Ali results

2pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 50,000 (Dirt) 1,400m

Winner: AF Al Moreeb, Antonio Fresu (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer)

2.30pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 60,000 (D) 1,400m

Winner: Shamikh, Ryan Curatolo, Nicholas Bachalard

3pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 64,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner: One Vision, Connor Beasley, Ali Rashid Al Raihe

3.30pm: Conditions (TB) Dh 100,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner: Gabr, Sam Hitchcott, Doug Watson

4pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 96,000 (D) 1,800m

Winner: Just A Penny, Sam Hitchcock, Doug Watson

4.30pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 60,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner: Torno Subito, Sam Hitchcock, Doug Watson

5pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 76,000 (D) 1,950m

Winner: Untold Secret, Jose Santiago, Salem bin Ghadayer

Tearful appearance

Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday. 

Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow. 

She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.

A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.

How does ToTok work?

The calling app is available to download on Google Play and Apple App Store

To successfully install ToTok, users are asked to enter their phone number and then create a nickname.

The app then gives users the option add their existing phone contacts, allowing them to immediately contact people also using the application by video or voice call or via message.

Users can also invite other contacts to download ToTok to allow them to make contact through the app.

 

Brave CF 27 fight card

Welterweight:
Abdoul Abdouraguimov (champion, FRA) v Jarrah Al Selawe (JOR)

Lightweight:
Anas Siraj Mounir (TUN) v Alex Martinez (CAN)

Welterweight:
Mzwandile Hlongwa (RSA) v Khamzat Chimaev (SWE)

Middleweight:
Tarek Suleiman (SYR) v Rustam Chsiev (RUS)
Mohammad Fakhreddine (LEB) v Christofer Silva (BRA)

Super lightweight:
Alex Nacfur (BRA) v Dwight Brooks (USA)

Bantamweight:
Jalal Al Daaja (JOR) v Tariq Ismail (CAN)
Chris Corton (PHI) v Zia Mashwani (PAK)

Featherweight:
Sulaiman (KUW) v Abdullatip (RUS)

Super lightweight:
Flavio Serafin (BRA) v Mohammad Al Katib (JOR)

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
​​​​​​​Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km

The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

Updated: December 27, 2022, 8:54 AM`