Tripoli's abandoned and 'dystopian' exhibition centre is slowly coming back to life


Saeed Saeed
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On the outskirts of the Lebanese city of Tripoli lies a sprawling site that speaks of the country's promise and tragedy.

At 10 hectares, the Rashid Karameh International Exhibition Centre is one of the largest sites of its kind in the world.

Under the eye of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, a state-of-the-art complex was planned, with 15 structures including an exhibition hall, a national pavilion and an outdoor concert stage.

Construction, by local companies, began in 1964, only for it to be abandoned 10 years later with the outbreak of civil war in Lebanon.

The grounds, with the half-finished amphitheatre and hall, went on to become a destination for field trips for students as a celebrated example of Modernist architecture in the Middle East.

Nicolas Fayad and Charles Kettaneh were regular visitors as American University of Beirut architecture students.

Those early expeditions eventually laid the seeds for their celebrated rehabilitation of the Niemeyer Guest House, which won the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture.

Lebanese architects Nicolas Fayyed and Charles Kettaneh talking to 'The National' about their award winning project. Photo: Christopher Wilton-Steer
Lebanese architects Nicolas Fayyed and Charles Kettaneh talking to 'The National' about their award winning project. Photo: Christopher Wilton-Steer

"A good word to describe the site is dystopian. It was this space that has been left empty and untouched since the war," Kettaneh tells The National from the Aga Khan's award ceremony in Muscat, Oman.

"We would visit the grounds from as far back as 20 years ago and we found it beautiful and inspiring because it was a place for exploration."

While activity on the site was sporadic — although between 1995 and 1998 it did host several regional exhibitions — its stature as one of Niemeyer's greatest unrealised designs grew and in 2018 was included on Unesco’s World Heritage Tentative List.

By this time Kettaneh and Fayad had founded Beirut's East Architecture Studio, a practice renowned for their innovative and contemporary designs, including urban homes and office spaces.

In 2017, a request for proposal to renovate the guest house went out from Expertise France — a development agency run under the auspices of the French government — and the Association of Lebanese Industrialists. The pair jumped at the chance to contribute to a site that had inspired them since childhood.

"The client wanted to repurpose the guest house and make it a place to bring in artisans from the region to work on prototypes and network with other designers from Tripoli, Beirut and beyond so they can exchange ideas and techniques," Kettaneh says.

The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon has been named one of the six winners of the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture
The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon has been named one of the six winners of the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Fayad says the project was immediately beset with challenges.

"The first priority was to save the building because it was structurally starting to decay due to weathering," he says.

"The second aspect we had to reconcile was how to actually intervene on a structure that was never completed. We had to understand how Niemeyer would have wanted it and that's where all the six months of research came into play.”

Informed by Niemeyer's established techniques, the pair set to work by adding flexible, transparent steel-and-glass partitions to complement the ceiling structure and conceal certain structural elements behind locally sourced plywood panelling.

Electro-mechanical features were included to increase ventilation and the amount of natural light.

The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture
The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Funded for an undisclosed sum by the European Union, the six-month project was completed by the end of 2018 and currently acts as the base of the Tripoli carpentry association, Minjara.

"That has been really beautiful to see," Kettaneh says.

"It is a platform where designers create products that [are exhibited] around the world such as in Paris and Belgium and sell online."

The Aga Khan Architecture Award jury also hailed the project's restorative powers.

The judges described the refurbished guesthouse as “an inspiring tale of architecture's capacity for repair, at a time of dizzying, entangled crisis around the world, and in Lebanon in particular".

Renovation of the Niemeyer guest house. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture
Renovation of the Niemeyer guest house. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Although it is fully functioning, Kettaneh describes the guest house as unfinished business.

"The place was initially designed by Niemeyer to have 14 rooms for accommodation, but unfortunately that was not part of our renovation scope because of the budget," he says.

"We do hope that it will be part of the next phase for the development because it’s not only important for us, as architects, to see the building fully completed, but it also benefits the space in terms of how it can be used.”

Fayad hopes the project and the award’s profile encourage other architects and benefactors to invest in rebuilding the fairgrounds.

"Times are very difficult now in Lebanon with economic meltdown and the Beirut port explosion, but we do hope this project can inspire others," he says.

"We do hope it is the beginning of other similar interventions at the fair because it remains historically untouched and it is so massive. There are so many opportunities and things to discover."

Scroll through the gallery below to see the winners of the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture

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Rating: 1/5

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Arsenal's pre-season fixtures

Thursday Beat Sydney 2-0 in Sydney

Saturday v Western Sydney Wanderers in Sydney

Wednesday v Bayern Munich in Shanghai

July 22 v Chelsea in Beijing

July 29 v Benfica in London

July 30 v Sevilla in London

Huddersfield Town permanent signings:

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Indoor Cricket World Cup

Venue Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23

UAE squad Saqib Nazir (captain), Aaqib Malik, Fahad Al Hashmi, Isuru Umesh, Nadir Hussain, Sachin Talwar, Nashwan Nasir, Prashath Kumara, Ramveer Rai, Sameer Nayyak, Umar Shah, Vikrant Shetty

Day 1 results:

Open Men (bonus points in brackets)
New Zealand 125 (1) beat UAE 111 (3)
India 111 (4) beat Singapore 75 (0)
South Africa 66 (2) beat Sri Lanka 57 (2)
Australia 126 (4) beat Malaysia -16 (0)

Open Women
New Zealand 64 (2) beat South Africa 57 (2)
England 69 (3) beat UAE 63 (1)
Australia 124 (4) beat UAE 23 (0)
New Zealand 74 (2) beat England 55 (2)

PRIMERA LIGA FIXTURES

All times UAE ( 4 GMT)

Saturday
Atletico Madrid v Sevilla (3pm) 
Alaves v Real Madrid (6.15pm) 
Malaga v Athletic Bilbao (8.30pm) 
Girona v Barcelona (10.45pm)

Sunday
Espanyol v Deportivo la Coruna (2pm) 
Getafe v Villarreal (6.15pm) 
Eibar v Celta Vigo (8.30pm)
Las Palmas v Leganes (8.30pm)
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Real Betis v Levante (11.pm)

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Tearful appearance

Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday. 

Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow. 

She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.

A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.

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Pot 1: Iran, Japan, South Korea, Australia, Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, China
Pot 2: Iraq, Uzbekistan, Syria, Oman, Lebanon, Kyrgyz Republic, Vietnam, Jordan
Pot 3: Palestine, India, Bahrain, Thailand, Tajikistan, North Korea, Chinese Taipei, Philippines
Pot 4: Turkmenistan, Myanmar, Hong Kong, Yemen, Afghanistan, Maldives, Kuwait, Malaysia
Pot 5: Indonesia, Singapore, Nepal, Cambodia, Bangladesh, Mongolia, Guam, Macau/Sri Lanka

Updated: November 04, 2022, 6:02 PM`