It's likely your Instagram feed has been flooded with pictures of Mykonos over the past two months, as floods of UAE residents have decamped to Greece's most popular party island.
The Cycladic hotspot has a hard-earned reputation for being a playground for rich, young revellers. I, alas, am none of the above.
But what Mykonos's wild reputation fails to take into account is that, beyond the heaving beach clubs and overpriced drinks, it offers all the attributes that make any Greek island so appealing: beautiful beaches, good food, picturesque villages and warm people.
Kivotos Mykonos was lunched almost 30 years ago, making it one of the first boutique hotels in Greece.
Its design, comprising whitewashed walls, narrow paths, hidden corners and unexpected water features, is a nod to traditional Greek villages.
In its opening year, the hotel welcomed fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, who has since become a regular guest.
Other famous visitors have included Donatella Versace, Shakira, Gerard Pique, Prince Albert II of Monaco and George Michael.
The welcome
We start our holiday in Mykonos with a rookie mistake. Instead of organising an airport pick-up with the hotel, we nonchalantly opt to grab a taxi on arrival.
Turns out there are only about 30 taxis on the entire island – and none of them are at the airport when we land.
We end up sitting on the pavement for about 40 minutes in the baking sun, alongside a motley crew of other red-faced tourists, waiting for taxis to materialise. One does, eventually, but a lesson to the wise – organise airport pick-up through the hotel, whatever the cost.
The drive to the hotel takes about 15 minutes, although we are informed we are lucky there’s no traffic, since the island’s two-lane roads are prone to congestion during the busy summer months.
Our journey takes us over picturesque hills and down into Ornos, an idyllic bay flanked on two sides by mountains. Kivotos is perched on one of these.
An understated entrance leads directly off a main road into a cool courtyard encircled by lush vegetation. We arrive way before check-in time but, after a quick tour of the property, are promptly shown to our room.
The neighbourhood
While it is home to a string of Mykonos’s requisite beach clubs, Ornos is a quieter, more family-friendly affair than many of the island’s souped-up party spots.
The bay is dotted with mega-yachts, befitting Mykonos’s reputation as a playground for the rich.
To the south, the small but charming village is home to a bakery, pharmacy, supermarket and old-school fish restaurants, all of which are a five-minute walk from the hotel, as well as boutique hotels and a stunning new outpost of Dubai’s La Cantine du Faubourg restaurant.
Mykonos’s main town, Chora, is a 10-minute drive away, for those who want to mingle with crowds of selfie-taking tourists or the area's resident pelican.
Kivotos’s main selling point is that it offers a tranquil retreat from the worst of the madness, but easy access to Mykonos’s many delights.
Mykonos is known as “the island of the winds” thanks to the meltemi, a dry northern wind that blows over the Aegean during the summer months.
Kivotos, which inches down a hill towards the sea, is a constant recipient of this cooling breeze.
Safety measures
Face mask are a rare sight for the entirety of our stay in Mykonos, with the Greek islands having seemingly drawn a moratorium on Covid-19 for the summer season.
But the boutique proportions of Kivotos mean the hotel never feels crowded and social distancing occurs by default.
The room
Kivotos offers a selection of 40 suites and villas, including junior and deluxe suites with sea views, pool suites and a signature suite with a private glass-fronted pool that is the stuff of Instagram dreams.
There are also two multi-storey waterfront villas on either side of the property, each with a private pool.
Our junior suite has separate living and sleeping areas and leads on to a terrace with a glass-fronted plunge pool. It looks out over the resort’s other white-roofed suites and the yacht-dotted bay beyond.
White-washed walls and wooden ceiling beams are offset by colourful accessories, including a hot pink bust of an ancient Greek warrior.
A large bathroom features a Jacuzzi, rain shower and double sinks. Decorative elements seem to have been chosen largely at random, so there’s not much cohesion in terms of design, but this adds to its charm.
The scene
We struggle to stray too far from the hotel’s infinity pool, which looks out over the bay and offers a great Greek island-holiday vibe throughout the day.
It’s lively, but not too lively, perfect for those wanting to enjoy Mykonos in a slightly more grown-up way.
A statue of a sea maiden, made by famous Greek sculptor Dimitris Armakola, stands in the centre of the pool area.
There are couples' sun loungers semi-submerged in the water, with surfaces to rest your drink on, and music that hints at Mykonos’s party vibe without overwhelming the senses.
A set of steps leads down to a rocky stretch of beach, where a roped pathway connects cabanas that are also half-immersed in the shallows. It’s an easy, incredibly relaxing way to while away the day.
The property is home to two boutiques, including one that specialises in sustainable products, as well as a small spa.
The food
Breakfast is served on a terrace on one of the hotel’s highest points, with stunning 180-degree views of Ornos beach and the mega-yachts that drift in and out of the bay.
A basket-load of pastries comes as standard, complemented by a choice of a la carte options, including cereals, egg dishes, pancakes, salads and French toast.
On a particularly decadent morning, I opt for the Kivotos special ($17), poached eggs on an English muffin smothered in hollandaise sauce, Parmesan flakes, truffle and salt.
The avocado toast ($14) serves as a healthier alternative the following day.
Lunch and dinner are served poolside at Namah restaurant, which offers a concise but interesting menu.
There are the classics, from a club sandwich to a signature burger, but also a selection of traditional Greek dishes, including calamari and octopus appetisers, and a beetroot risotto ($19) served with goat’s cheese, pine nuts and sun-dried strawberries, which becomes an instant favourite.
The tagliata rib eye ($30) is another highlight.
Prices are also pretty reasonable, given the extortion taking place across the rest of the island, where a table for sunset drinks can easily come with a minimum spend of $150.
The service
With the exception of one openly rude barman, staff were exceptional – friendly, chatty and helpful, whether serving pastries at breakfast or delivering a never-ending supply of iced coffees by the pool.
There was genuine warmth from all members of the team, who have seemingly mastered the art of traditional Greek hospitality.
Highs and lows
The hotel manages to be edgy and cool, but also warm and inviting.
One of its most interesting features is the artwork scattered throughout, which combines traditional Hellenic scenes with pop culture elements, so a bust of the goddess Aphrodite is overlaid with a picture of Bart Simpson and pink doughnuts; and a sinuous statue is covered in graffiti and cartoon-esque graphics.
It’s a playful, whimsical addition to an already visually distinctive property.
Recurring issues with water pressure in our bathroom were the only real low.
Insider tip
Rent a car or buggy if you want to move around the island – taxis are like gold dust. Otherwise, just park yourself by the Kivotos pool and stay put. You won’t regret it.
The verdict
The property’s chic but not-trying-too-hard vibe incorporates all the charm you’d expect from a Greek island, without being tainted by the pretentiousness of other parts of Mykonos.
The bottom line
Prices range from €400 ($401) a night for a suite in low season to $3,508 a night for a villa in high season; www.kivotoshotels.com/mykonos
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Sun jukebox
Rufus Thomas, Bear Cat (The Answer to Hound Dog) (1953)
This rip-off of Leiber/Stoller’s early rock stomper brought a lawsuit against Phillips and necessitated Presley’s premature sale to RCA.
Elvis Presley, Mystery Train (1955)
The B-side of Presley’s final single for Sun bops with a drummer-less groove.
Johnny Cash and the Tennessee Two, Folsom Prison Blues (1955)
Originally recorded for Sun, Cash’s signature tune was performed for inmates of the titular prison 13 years later.
Carl Perkins, Blue Suede Shoes (1956)
Within a month of Sun’s February release Elvis had his version out on RCA.
Roy Orbison, Ooby Dooby (1956)
An essential piece of irreverent juvenilia from Orbison.
Jerry Lee Lewis, Great Balls of Fire (1957)
Lee’s trademark anthem is one of the era’s best-remembered – and best-selling – songs.
On racial profiling at airports
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Day 1, Dubai Test: At a glance
Moment of the day Sadeera Samarawickrama set pulses racing with his strokeplay on his introduction to Test cricket. It reached a feverish peak when he stepped down the wicket and launched Yasir Shah, who many regard as the world’s leading spinner, back over his head for six. No matter that he was out soon after: it felt as though the future had arrived.
Stat of the day - 5 The last time Sri Lanka played a Test in Dubai – they won here in 2013 – they had four players in their XI who were known as wicketkeepers. This time they have gone one better. Each of Dinesh Chandimal, Kaushal Silva, Samarawickrama, Kusal Mendis, and Niroshan Dickwella – the nominated gloveman here – can keep wicket.
The verdict Sri Lanka want to make history by becoming the first team to beat Pakistan in a full Test series in the UAE. They could not have made a better start, first by winning the toss, then by scoring freely on an easy-paced pitch. The fact Yasir Shah found some turn on Day 1, too, will have interested their own spin bowlers.
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
FIGHT CARD
Fights start from 6pm Friday, January 31
Catchweight 82kg
Piotr Kuberski (POL) v Ahmed Saeb (IRQ)
Women’s bantamweight
Cornelia Holm (SWE) v Corinne Laframboise (CAN)
Welterweight
Omar Hussein (JOR) v Vitalii Stoian (UKR)
Welterweight
Josh Togo (LEB) v Ali Dyusenov (UZB)
Flyweight
Isaac Pimentel (BRA) v Delfin Nawen (PHI)
Catchweight 80kg
Seb Eubank (GBR) v Mohamed El Mokadem (EGY)
Lightweight
Mohammad Yahya (UAE) v Ramadan Noaman (EGY)
Lightweight
Alan Omer (GER) v Reydon Romero (PHI)
Welterweight
Ahmed Labban (LEB) v Juho Valamaa (FIN)
Featherweight
Elias Boudegzdame (ALG) v Austin Arnett (USA)
Super heavyweight
Roman Wehbe (LEB) v Maciej Sosnowski (POL)
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo
Power: 201hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 320Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 6-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 8.7L/100km
Price: Dh133,900
On sale: now
Meydan racecard:
6.30pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round 2 (PA) Group 1 | US$75,000 (Dirt) | 2,200 metres
7.05pm: UAE 1000 Guineas (TB) Listed | $250,000 (D) | 1,600m
7.40pm: Meydan Classic Trial (TB) Conditions | $100,000 (Turf) | 1,400m
8.15pm: Al Shindagha Sprint (TB) Group 3 | $200,000 (D) | 1,200m
8.50pm: Handicap (TB) | $175,000 (D) | 1,600m
9.25pm: Handicap (TB) | $175,000 (T) | 2,000m
10pm: Handicap (TB) | $135,000 (T) | 1,600m
'Top Gun: Maverick'
Rating: 4/5
Directed by: Joseph Kosinski
Starring: Tom Cruise, Val Kilmer, Jennifer Connelly, Jon Hamm, Miles Teller, Glen Powell, Ed Harris
LEADERBOARD
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Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Rock in a Hard Place: Music and Mayhem in the Middle East
Orlando Crowcroft
Zed Books
How Alia's experiment will help humans get to Mars
Alia’s winning experiment examined how genes might change under the stresses caused by being in space, such as cosmic radiation and microgravity.
Her samples were placed in a machine on board the International Space Station. called a miniPCR thermal cycler, which can copy DNA multiple times.
After the samples were examined on return to Earth, scientists were able to successfully detect changes caused by being in space in the way DNA transmits instructions through proteins and other molecules in living organisms.
Although Alia’s samples were taken from nematode worms, the results have much bigger long term applications, especially for human space flight and long term missions, such as to Mars.
It also means that the first DNA experiments using human genomes can now be carried out on the ISS.
Scoreline:
Barcelona 2
Suarez 85', Messi 86'
Atletico Madrid 0
Red card: Diego Costa 28' (Atletico)
25%20Days%20to%20Aden
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
Quick%20facts
%3Cul%3E%0A%3Cli%3EStorstockholms%20Lokaltrafik%20(SL)%20offers%20free%20guided%20tours%20of%20art%20in%20the%20metro%20and%20at%20the%20stations%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3Cli%3EThe%20tours%20are%20free%20of%20charge%3B%20all%20you%20need%20is%20a%20valid%20SL%20ticket%2C%20for%20which%20a%20single%20journey%20(valid%20for%2075%20minutes)%20costs%2039%20Swedish%20krone%20(%243.75)%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3Cli%3ETravel%20cards%20for%20unlimited%20journeys%20are%20priced%20at%20165%20Swedish%20krone%20for%2024%20hours%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3Cli%3EAvoid%20rush%20hour%20%E2%80%93%20between%209.30%20am%20and%204.30%20pm%20%E2%80%93%20to%20explore%20the%20artwork%20at%20leisure%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3C%2Ful%3E%0A
RACE CARD
5pm: Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Racing Festival Purebred Arabian Cup Conditions (PA); Dh 200,000 (Turf) 1,600m
5.30pm: Sheikha Fatima bint Mubarak Cup Conditions (PA); Dh 200,000 (T) 1,600m
6pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Cup Listed (TB); Dh 380,000 (T) 1,600m
6.30pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Group 3 (PA); Dh 500,000 (T) 1,600m
7pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Jewel Crown Group 1 (PA); Dh 5,000,000 (T) 2,200m
7.30pm: Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Racing Festival Handicap (PA); Dh 150,000 (T) 1,400m
8pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 100,000 (T); 1,400m
England-South Africa Test series
1st Test England win by 211 runs at Lord's, London
2nd Test South Africa win by 340 runs at Trent Bridge, Nottingham
3rd Test July 27-31 at The Oval, London
4th Test August 4-8 at Old Trafford, Manchester
Which honey takes your fancy?
Al Ghaf Honey
The Al Ghaf tree is a local desert tree which bears the harsh summers with drought and high temperatures. From the rich flowers, bees that pollinate this tree can produce delicious red colour honey in June and July each year
Sidr Honey
The Sidr tree is an evergreen tree with long and strong forked branches. The blossom from this tree is called Yabyab, which provides rich food for bees to produce honey in October and November. This honey is the most expensive, but tastiest
Samar Honey
The Samar tree trunk, leaves and blossom contains Barm which is the secret of healing. You can enjoy the best types of honey from this tree every year in May and June. It is an historical witness to the life of the Emirati nation which represents the harsh desert and mountain environments
Draw:
Group A: Egypt, DR Congo, Uganda, Zimbabwe
Group B: Nigeria, Guinea, Madagascar, Burundi
Group C: Senegal, Algeria, Kenya, Tanzania
Group D: Morocco, Ivory Coast, South Africa, Namibia
Group E: Tunisia, Mali, Mauritania, Angola
Group F: Cameroon, Ghana, Benin, Guinea-Bissau
The Matrix Resurrections
Director: Lana Wachowski
Stars: Keanu Reeves, Carrie-Anne Moss, Jessica Henwick
Rating:****
Chef Nobu's advice for eating sushi
“One mistake people always make is adding extra wasabi. There is no need for this, because it should already be there between the rice and the fish.
“When eating nigiri, you must dip the fish – not the rice – in soy sauce, otherwise the rice will collapse. Also, don’t use too much soy sauce or it will make you thirsty. For sushi rolls, dip a little of the rice-covered roll lightly in soy sauce and eat in one bite.
“Chopsticks are acceptable, but really, I recommend using your fingers for sushi. Do use chopsticks for sashimi, though.
“The ginger should be eaten separately as a palette cleanser and used to clear the mouth when switching between different pieces of fish.”
Our legal consultants
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Results
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The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre turbo 4-cyl
Transmission: eight-speed auto
Power: 190bhp
Torque: 300Nm
Price: Dh169,900
On sale: now
THE LIGHT
Director: Tom Tykwer
Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger
Rating: 3/5
FROM%20THE%20ASHES
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UAE v United States, T20 International Series
Both matches at ICC Academy, Dubai. Admission is free.
1st match: Friday, 2pm
2nd match: Saturday, 2pm
UAE squad: Mohammed Naveed (captain), Rohan Mustafa, Ashfaq Ahmed, Shaiman Anwar, Rameez Shahzad, Amjad Gul, CP Rizwan, Mohammed Boota, Abdul Shakoor, Ahmed Raza, Imran Haider, Sultan Ahmed, Zahoor Khan, Amir Hayat
USA squad: Saurabh Netravalkar (captain), Jaskaran Malhotra, Elmore Hutchinson, Aaron Jones, Nosthush Kenjige, Ali Khan, Jannisar Khan, Xavier Marshall, Monank Patel, Timil Patel, Roy Silva, Jessy Singh, Steven Taylor, Hayden Walsh
The Pope's itinerary
Sunday, February 3, 2019 - Rome to Abu Dhabi
1pm: departure by plane from Rome / Fiumicino to Abu Dhabi
10pm: arrival at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
Monday, February 4
12pm: welcome ceremony at the main entrance of the Presidential Palace
12.20pm: visit Abu Dhabi Crown Prince at Presidential Palace
5pm: private meeting with Muslim Council of Elders at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
6.10pm: Inter-religious in the Founder's Memorial
Tuesday, February 5 - Abu Dhabi to Rome
9.15am: private visit to undisclosed cathedral
10.30am: public mass at Zayed Sports City – with a homily by Pope Francis
12.40pm: farewell at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
1pm: departure by plane to Rome
5pm: arrival at the Rome / Ciampino International Airport
Match info
Uefa Champions League Group B
Tottenham Hotspur 1 (Eriksen 80')
Inter Milan 0
Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
