The roads of Mi'ilya, an Arab town in the Western Galilee, snake their way up a steady incline, and the houses all have at least one window that looks out onto another village nearby. Most of those villages are hostile, in one way or another.
The 2,800 residents of Mi'ilya are almost all Roman Catholic Arabs, though in the last few years a small number of Muslims have taken up residence, arousing some suspicion among Catholics who fear for the ethno-religious character of the town. The village's closest neighbours are Jewish settlers.
Just a few kilometres to the north, across the Lebanese border, Hizbollah reigns in a series of old and tightly clustered hill villages, the sites of rocket attacks against Israeli communities, including Mi'ilya, for the past five years. From the village's highest vantage point, near the local church, one gets a showstopping panorama of enmity: Jews who hate Catholics, who dodge Shiite rockets that land near Sunnis.
If this combination were not nasty enough, Mi'ilya's staple industry is the smelliest, most universally reviled in the Middle East. Since the mid-1960s, the village has been the capital of Israeli pork production. Although most of the country's 135,000 pigs reside elsewhere, Hatem Arraf, the Swine King of Israel, still lives here and maintains a herd of several thousand animals that live alongside the smaller herds of other Catholic farmers. The densely packed lots of Mi'ilya send a reeking miasma wafting in every direction, and nearly everyone wants the farms closed - everyone but the local Catholics, whose best restaurant serves pork shawarma as its signature dish.
So when someone threw firebombs at the Mi'ilya herd last April, there was no shortage of suspects. In the attack, a small farm set was ablaze and a farmer's house was strafed with gunfire, though no one was hurt. Still, the screams of the animals filled the night air and, in the morning, the total damage was reckoned to amount to hundreds of thousands of dollars.
In a part of the world where neighbours mistrust neighbours and sworn enemies live back to back, the relatively minor incident of one burnt farm is cause enough for rampant paranoia. Even other pig farmers are prime suspects: many people whispered that the bombings could have been the result of internecine conflicts between competing producers.
To get to the bottom of this unfortunate event, I start by visiting the village's mayor. Elias Arraf had been in office for a year and a half when the attacks occurred. Almost every room in Mi'ilya seems to be adorned with icons of the Virgin Mary, and Arraf's parlour is no exception. His family exemplifies the fraught relationship between Mi'ilya's people and their Jewish neighbours. Huwaida Arraf, his niece, is an American doctor who led the doomed flotilla to Gaza. His son Ayman, a medical student at Hebrew University in Jerusalem, says he celebrates Hizbollah's rocket attacks - some of which hit Mi'ilya. "We're living in Israel, but we're happy when we see the rockets," he says. He does wish Hizbollah had sharper aim, though, and could hit the nearby village of Ma'alot instead.
Mayor Arraf says that Mi'ilya has changed over the years, starting with the slow erosion of the village's Catholic identity. "Before, everybody was together, and everyone took care of everyone else," he explains. "Now everybody just cares for himself, about how to get money and get a new car." One way to profit is to assist the forces that are trying to chip away at the village's singularly unpopular way of life by selling land to outsiders unsympathetic to the pork industry, including Muslims and observant Jews.
Kassis Shukri, a plastic surgeon, says that Arab villagers who had sold their land to outsiders are shunned as traitors. "I would never sell my land, because it is the only place in all of Israel that belongs to me," he says.
"I heard about one family that rents out a house to Muslims," the mayor explains, hinting at an unknown conspiracy. "We don't know why they come here. If they were normal people they wouldn't."
Mayor Arraf won't say who he thinks set the fires. "The police never said why it happened," he offers, cryptically. The neighbouring Israeli villages include Mizpe Hila - best known as the home of the captured soldier Gilad Shalit - and Ma'alot. Residents of both places have complained about the farms' stench and attempted to have them shut down.
Arraf says Muslims, unlike Jews, who not only operate pig farms but account for over half the eaters of pork in Israel, would probably gag at the very idea of a pig farm.
On a visit to the farm of Israel's largest pork producer, Hatim Arraf, I can understand why. On the dirt road to the farm, the stench creeps into my car's air-conditioning system, and by the time I reach the front gate the air stings my eyes.
Arraf, who is not a close relative of the mayor, keeps 35,000 pigs, but only about 5,500 of them are in Mi'ilya. Although a couple of dozen are present when I arrive. An amiable caretaker shows me around and leads me to view a row of enormous sows and their piglets.
The tour follows a morning of angry accusations from Hatim Arraf and Hadid, in which they detail the ways in which the Jewish authorities have tried to limit their ability to make their traditional living. Rural farmers and livestock managers already engage in tough tactics in northern Israel - particularly in the Galilee, where Jewish Israelis have set up Old West-style militias such as Shomer, or "The Guardian", to prevent cattle rustling, well-poisoning, and other underhanded practices they accuse Palestinians of. Palestinians, of course, return the accusations.
In Mi'ilya, the strategies are sneakier, say Arraf and Hadid. The authorities simply refuse permits to dig wells, build new structures, or improve facilities. "It's not safe like it used to be," says Hadid, referring to the burning of his farm. "But the biggest problem is the government. It doesn't give us licences, it doesn't help us." He says that if he were a Jew who wanted to build a chicken farm, the permissions would proceed rapidly. Instead, as a Palestinian who wants to raise pigs, he is forced to make do with old facilities and hope that he never needs to build beyond his current farm.
"We are frozen," says Arraf, pointing to Ma'alot's leadership as his biggest opposition. "The mayor there does not like pigs. He is fighting against us." Arraf believes that local opposition to the main industry of Mi'ilya is an attempt to grind the town, its existing residents and their unclean animals into the dust.
In Ma'alot, just a few hundred metres from the farm, I meet Dimitri Glazerman, a friendly Russian Jew enjoying a hot and sunny sabbath. He brings me a glass of water and uses his hands to mimic the wafting of pig fumes toward his nose. Glazerman has lived here for 13 years and insists that the cold war between the Catholic swineherds of Mi'ilya and the Jews of Ma'alot has nothing to do with faith and everything to do with hygiene.
"It's not a religious thing," he says. "It's simply the stench." He then pinches his nose and reels back dramatically, saying that the smell penetrates into his area at least a couple times a week.
Today the air is crisp and clean, and there is no way to tell whether the horrific aromas to which Glazerman refers are real or imagined. The farmers, for their part, assure me that they have taken all possible measures to reduce the environmental impact of their businesses, not to mention the smell. All agree that good ventilation makes for good neighbours. But Hadid adds that he has been raising pigs since long before the Jewish neighbourhood started encroaching on Mi'ilya, and that the expectations of his neighbours are unreasonable.
"If they pay me two or three million shekels, I will leave. But instead they just come and tell me to go," Hadid says.
He adds that the Ma'alot residents are asking him to dial down his pig business. But, he explains, animal husbandry is not that simple, so the angry disagreement is a more or less permanent feature of life here - and, nowadays, with these frustrations comes the risk of the occasional fire bombing.
Hadid, the farmer who suffered most from the recent attack suspects just about everyone, including members of his own community. The bombers, he believes, were aiming for the Arraf farm and accidentally hit his much smaller property instead. "The police will find out [who did this] if they want to," he says. "But they are scared of the mafia, and the mafia are not scared of them." He narrows his eyes and looked out over the landscape, seeing conspiracies, enemies and land-grabbers in every direction.
Graeme Wood is a contributing editor at The Atlantic
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
Test
Director: S Sashikanth
Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan
Star rating: 2/5
More from Aya Iskandarani
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
MATCH INFO
Euro 2020 qualifier
Ukraine 2 (Yaremchuk 06', Yarmolenko 27')
Portugal 1 (Ronaldo 72' pen)
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
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The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
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Company%20Profile
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In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
'Cheb%20Khaled'
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Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
Vidaamuyarchi
Director: Magizh Thirumeni
Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra
Rating: 4/5
Origin
Dan Brown
Doubleday
More coverage from the Future Forum
The language of diplomacy in 1853
Treaty of Peace in Perpetuity Agreed Upon by the Chiefs of the Arabian Coast on Behalf of Themselves, Their Heirs and Successors Under the Mediation of the Resident of the Persian Gulf, 1853
(This treaty gave the region the name “Trucial States”.)
We, whose seals are hereunto affixed, Sheikh Sultan bin Suggar, Chief of Rassool-Kheimah, Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon, Chief of Aboo Dhebbee, Sheikh Saeed bin Buyte, Chief of Debay, Sheikh Hamid bin Rashed, Chief of Ejman, Sheikh Abdoola bin Rashed, Chief of Umm-ool-Keiweyn, having experienced for a series of years the benefits and advantages resulting from a maritime truce contracted amongst ourselves under the mediation of the Resident in the Persian Gulf and renewed from time to time up to the present period, and being fully impressed, therefore, with a sense of evil consequence formerly arising, from the prosecution of our feuds at sea, whereby our subjects and dependants were prevented from carrying on the pearl fishery in security, and were exposed to interruption and molestation when passing on their lawful occasions, accordingly, we, as aforesaid have determined, for ourselves, our heirs and successors, to conclude together a lasting and inviolable peace from this time forth in perpetuity.
Taken from Britain and Saudi Arabia, 1925-1939: the Imperial Oasis, by Clive Leatherdale
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
Aston martin DBX specs
Engine: 4.0-litre twin-turbo V8
Transmission: nine-speed automatic
Power: 542bhp
Torque: 700Nm
Top speed: 291kph
Price: Dh848,000
On sale: Q2, 2020
How much sugar is in chocolate Easter eggs?
- The 169g Crunchie egg has 15.9g of sugar per 25g serving, working out at around 107g of sugar per egg
- The 190g Maltesers Teasers egg contains 58g of sugar per 100g for the egg and 19.6g of sugar in each of the two Teasers bars that come with it
- The 188g Smarties egg has 113g of sugar per egg and 22.8g in the tube of Smarties it contains
- The Milky Bar white chocolate Egg Hunt Pack contains eight eggs at 7.7g of sugar per egg
- The Cadbury Creme Egg contains 26g of sugar per 40g egg
How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
((Disclaimer))
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The Pope's itinerary
Sunday, February 3, 2019 - Rome to Abu Dhabi
1pm: departure by plane from Rome / Fiumicino to Abu Dhabi
10pm: arrival at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
Monday, February 4
12pm: welcome ceremony at the main entrance of the Presidential Palace
12.20pm: visit Abu Dhabi Crown Prince at Presidential Palace
5pm: private meeting with Muslim Council of Elders at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
6.10pm: Inter-religious in the Founder's Memorial
Tuesday, February 5 - Abu Dhabi to Rome
9.15am: private visit to undisclosed cathedral
10.30am: public mass at Zayed Sports City – with a homily by Pope Francis
12.40pm: farewell at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
1pm: departure by plane to Rome
5pm: arrival at the Rome / Ciampino International Airport
First Person
Richard Flanagan
Chatto & Windus
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
Dengue%20fever%20symptoms
%3Cp%3EHigh%20fever%20(40%C2%B0C%2F104%C2%B0F)%3Cbr%3ESevere%20headache%3Cbr%3EPain%20behind%20the%20eyes%3Cbr%3EMuscle%20and%20joint%20pains%3Cbr%3ENausea%3Cbr%3EVomiting%3Cbr%3ESwollen%20glands%3Cbr%3ERash%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
THE SPECS
Engine: six-litre W12 twin-turbo
Transmission: eight-speed dual clutch auto
Power: 626bhp
Torque: 900Nm
Price: Dh940,160 (plus VAT)
On sale: Q1 2020
The years Ramadan fell in May
Tips to keep your car cool
- Place a sun reflector in your windshield when not driving
- Park in shaded or covered areas
- Add tint to windows
- Wrap your car to change the exterior colour
- Pick light interiors - choose colours such as beige and cream for seats and dashboard furniture
- Avoid leather interiors as these absorb more heat
UAE squad to face Ireland
Ahmed Raza (captain), Chirag Suri (vice-captain), Rohan Mustafa, Mohammed Usman, Mohammed Boota, Zahoor Khan, Junaid Siddique, Waheed Ahmad, Zawar Farid, CP Rizwaan, Aryan Lakra, Karthik Meiyappan, Alishan Sharafu, Basil Hameed, Kashif Daud, Adithya Shetty, Vriitya Aravind
North Pole stats
Distance covered: 160km
Temperature: -40°C
Weight of equipment: 45kg
Altitude (metres above sea level): 0
Terrain: Ice rock
South Pole stats
Distance covered: 130km
Temperature: -50°C
Weight of equipment: 50kg
Altitude (metres above sea level): 3,300
Terrain: Flat ice
