Confusion surrounds last-minute postponement of fashion week



ABU DHABI // Confusion surrounds the last-minute postponement of Abu Dhabi Fashion Week, an event organisers said would put the capital on par with the great fashion cities of Milan, Paris and New York. Abu Dhabi companies named as sponsors of the event, which had been scheduled for last week, are either denying involvement or saying they have been unable to establish contact with organisers for several months.

Press material released earlier this month by the co-organisers, Maven Corporate, listed several sponsors including Mubadala, the Abu Dhabi Government's investment arm, Aldar, the emirate's largest property developer, and Etihad Airways. Maven Corporate announced last Wednesday, a day before the event was due to start, that it would not take place because of "unrealised contractual commitments of the Emirati majority shareholder". It promised new dates would be announced "in due time".

Tom Clarke, a spokesman for Etihad, said the airline was "not a sponsor" of this month's cancelled fashion show. Ousama Ghannoum, the marketing and media director of Aldar Properties, said Aldar was a sponsor only of the Abu Dhabi Fashion Week launch event in November last year and the inaugural Abu Dhabi Fashion Week in March. He added: "We did not agree to sponsor any other fashion week." A spokesman for Mubadala said in February it had agreed to sponsor the fashion week for "two seasons", specifically the two events scheduled for this year.

"Despite efforts to contact Maven Corporate since April of this year, Mubadala has been unable to reach them. This is obviously very disappointing for everyone involved." Saeed al Badi, the president of Gulf Horizon Group, said the fashion week's chief organiser, Dr Alice Teeuwen, initially approached his family about being partners and sought help in contacting major corporations that could act as sponsors.

"When she came to the UAE, we opened our house, we opened our heart," Mr Badi said. "We said we'd support any contacts she needs." He said the fashion week launch event last November and the first fashion week in March went well. However, around the time of the March event, employees of Maven Corporate began contacting the al Badi family claiming they had not been paid. Dr Teeuwen, he said, approached the family requesting financial assistance, something he said the family had not agreed to provide.

He said the family had not been in contact with Dr Teeuwen since earlier this year and he was "shocked" that Maven Corporate was still using the family's name, along with the names of Etihad, Mubadala and Aldar, in relation to the event. He said Maven Corporate "had no right" to continue to use these names. Several sources have indicated that suppliers previously involved in the fashion week contacted sponsors after they had not been paid.

One supplier involved in the launch event in November, the Swiss-based Edward Quinn Archive, said it had only this month been paid for 83 photographs it supplied. Ursula Frei from the organisation said 22 photographs were damaged and eight were not returned. According to Ms Frei, "many, many other suppliers and clients in Europe" were not paid. The inaugural Abu Dhabi Fashion Week in March this year, for which Aldar was listed as the foundation sponsor and Mubadala and Etihad as gold sponsors, featured well-known brands such as Pucci and Missoni.

A promotional event to launch the brand the previous November included a fashion show by the legendary Italian designer Valentino. In last Wednesday's statement, a "Maven Corporate representative" said the latest event was being "postponed" with "sincere regret". The event, the statement said, was being organised by Maven Corporate and the Fashion Resources Park, a "state-of-the-art hub and headquarters for the fashion industry being planned in Abu Dhabi".

"The unrealised contractual commitments of the Emirati majority stakeholder have forced us to defer the launch of the event," it said. The National contacted Maven Corporate, but the only response was an email containing last week's statement. dbardsley@thenational.ae

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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Test

Director: S Sashikanth

Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan

Star rating: 2/5

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COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Xpanceo

Started: 2018

Founders: Roman Axelrod, Valentyn Volkov

Based: Dubai, UAE

Industry: Smart contact lenses, augmented/virtual reality

Funding: $40 million

Investor: Opportunity Venture (Asia)

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The White Lotus: Season three

Creator: Mike White

Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell

Rating: 4.5/5

Continental champions

Best Asian Player: Massaki Todokoro (Japan)

Best European Player: Adam Wardzinski (Poland)

Best North & Central American Player: DJ Jackson (United States)

Best African Player: Walter Dos Santos (Angola)

Best Oceanian Player: Lee Ting (Australia)

Best South American Player: Gabriel De Sousa (Brazil)

Best Asian Federation: Saudi Jiu-Jitsu Federation