Abu Dhabi's heritage buildings allow us to time travel back to the city's first boom


John Dennehy
  • English
  • Arabic

Take a walk on Abu Dhabi’s Zayed the First Street today and it is possible to time travel. Electra Street, as it is still called by many, is home to several buildings on Abu Dhabi’s new list of 64 modern heritage sites, dating chiefly from the 1970s and 1980s, marked for “immediate and unconditional protection”.

Harib Tower, the Hamed Centre and buildings such as the Saeed Al Kalili (Ibrahimi) and Obaid Al Mazrouei on the street allow us to experience a time and place when Abu Dhabi’s new future was being mapped out. This was the early oil boom. Modern towers, luxurious apartments, the first malls and an influx of multinational residents were transforming a place that just two decades before was sand and barasti huts.

These 64 sites are the bridge between the emirate’s pre-oil days and the modern city we see today. Abu Dhabi has expanded to other islands and to the suburbs with its glittering high rise buildings, financial districts and mega-projects as that era fades from view. But now the focus has returned to these early landmarks that tell us so much about Abu Dhabi’s rich history.

The main bus terminal in Abu Dhabi. Photo: Lukasz Stanek
The main bus terminal in Abu Dhabi. Photo: Lukasz Stanek

“As an urban historian, it’s heartening to see Abu Dhabi recognising the significance of its modern heritage buildings and taking measures to protect these architectural gems,” said Alamira Reem Bani Hashim, Emirati author of Planning Abu Dhabi: An Urban History, a landmark book that charted how the city grew. “They serve as invaluable markers of the city's evolving urban landscape and architectural achievements.”

Building blocks of progress

Sultan Sooud Al Qassemi, Emirati columnist and researcher, who co-edited Building Sharjah, a work that highlighted the emirate’s unsung architecture, said it was a “significant step towards creating a federal set of regulations aimed at preserving modern heritage across the UAE in all its shapes and forms”.

“It is likely that Abu Dhabi's step will also encourage and even serve as a template for other Gulf States to introduce regulations towards the goal of preserving modern architectural heritage across the region,” he said.

“The next step is to make sure that these buildings are repurposed and turned into active centres of learning or work to ensure that they continue to serve a purpose so that they are appreciated by a new generation of Emiratis as well as residents and visitors.”

Major buildings such as Al Manhal Palace; the headquarters of Adnoc; Zayed Sports City; and Abu Dhabi’s main bus terminal are included. But there is an intriguing selection of smaller and less well-known sites from across the emirate. Some of the capital’s first malls that ushered in a new era of commerce, such as the Hamdan and Hamed Centre feature, along with bus stations City Terminal and Al Bateen Mall that spoke to a new age of public transport. Also protected are the first parks, such as at Khalidiyah, that allowed families time to relax and enjoy some downtime. There are also water tanks, hotels, vegetable markets, a fire station, a school, souqs, health facilities and even the former newsroom of The National at the Abu Dhabi Media Company building.

Many were designed by Arab, South Asian and Eastern European architects. Bulgaria’s Technoexportstroy, for example, and its husband and wife architectural team of Kuno and Stanka Dundakov, were behind the main bus terminal. Coursing through Abu Dhabi during these years was a global exchange of ideas, technologies and ways of operating well before anyone started talking about “star architects”.

Niqa bin Ateej water tank and park in the Khalidiyah area of Abu Dhabi in 2014. Christopher Pike / The National
Niqa bin Ateej water tank and park in the Khalidiyah area of Abu Dhabi in 2014. Christopher Pike / The National

Lina Ahmad and Marco Sosa, both associate professors at Zayed University specialising in modern architectural heritage, said the sites are "connected to memories of residents, expatriates and nationals, growing up and using the city”.

Celebrating the capital's rich history

“The preservation of these buildings will also educate generations of young residents to recognise the historical importance of their recent built environment,” Prof Sosa said.

Prof Ahmad said: “With our design students at Zayed University, we encourage this appreciation as we acknowledge that as future young designers working in the construction industry, they can become instigators for preservation, conservation and adapting practices.”

Awareness has been building for years. Universities such Abu Dhabi University, NYUAD and Zayed University have undertaken research projects into the emirate’s architectural history. NYUAD’s research led to a book entitled Abu Dhabi Guide: Modern Architecture, 1968 to 1992. And in 2014 the UAE’s pavilion at Venice Biennale celebrated the country’s architecture under the theme "Lest We Forget: Structures of Memory in the UAE".

Authorities had also been working to safeguard these structures and in 2011 started identifying sites for preservation. Abu Dhabi then introduced a cultural heritage law in 2016 that recognised the inclusion of modern heritage along with archaeological sites and historic buildings as part of its cultural heritage. An awareness campaign to highlight the modern heritage initiative began in 2020 and the 64 new sites are now firmly protected under this law.

“This is phenomenal news,” said Deborah Bentley, Abu Dhabi representative for the Royal Institute of British Architects from 2011 to 2014. “Seeing this many buildings and places preserved at once ensures that Abu Dhabi’s connection with its roots will be maintained for future generations,” said Ms Bentley, who also taught at Abu Dhabi University.

“These buildings reflect not only … technology developments in the 1970s and 1980s but also reflect a time when architects were designing buildings that responded to the environment with deep balconies and overhangs that self-shaded the rest of the building, elements that architects are now reusing as we focus on the effects of climate change.”

Al Bateen Mall, with its dramatic flying canopies, is one of Abu Dhabi's landmark early structures. Reem Mohammed / The National
Al Bateen Mall, with its dramatic flying canopies, is one of Abu Dhabi's landmark early structures. Reem Mohammed / The National

Al Bateen Mall and City Terminal are examples of what Ms Bentley refers to. Located in Al Zahiyah (Tourist Club) and Bateen they were built as bus stations to complement the main terminal that opened in 1989. They had curved roofs and concrete canopies to provide shade for passengers. They eventually closed as bus stations and were repurposed as a shopping mall and a city check-in service before these also closed and the buildings stood empty. But renovation work has recently started at the City Terminal and news about its future purpose is expected.

Now they are being preserved, the question is what does the future hold? Abu Dhabi's Department of Culture and Tourism is clear: “No demolition applications will be allowed for these buildings, instead, priority will be given for them to be maintained and rehabilitated in accordance with their designated grade.” Grading typically means a system to determine the different values and how they might be repurposed. Restoration of the Cultural Foundation and its integration with renovated Qasr Al Hosn across a publicly accessible square shows what is possible. The foundation and the fort have been brought back to their former glory while the square hosts events and invites people to walk and interact, while also rejuvenating the old heart of the city. The DCT said it will continue to work to identify buildings that could be added to the list.

Yasser Elsheshtawy, adjunct professor of architecture at Columbia University in the US and an expert on urbanism in the Gulf, said some heritage buildings may not even necessarily have to retain their original function but can go through “adaptive re-use” to serve the community better. One of the protected buildings is the Armed Forces Officer Club which is now being repurposed as a hotel and resort.

“You want to avoid having a city comprised of empty shells, pretty to look at, but otherwise devoid of functional value,” he said. “A city cannot be a fossilised version of its past but needs to change, adapt and grow. This initiative is the first step in achieving this goal.”

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The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

The five pillars of Islam
BRIEF SCORES:

Toss: Nepal, chose to field

UAE 153-6: Shaiman (59), Usman (30); Regmi 2-23

Nepal 132-7: Jora 53 not out; Zahoor 2-17

Result: UAE won by 21 runs

Series: UAE lead 1-0

The bio

Who inspires you?

I am in awe of the remarkable women in the Arab region, both big and small, pushing boundaries and becoming role models for generations. Emily Nasrallah was a writer, journalist, teacher and women’s rights activist

How do you relax?

Yoga relaxes me and helps me relieve tension, especially now when we’re practically chained to laptops and desks. I enjoy learning more about music and the history of famous music bands and genres.

What is favourite book?

The Perks of Being a Wallflower - I think I've read it more than 7 times

What is your favourite Arabic film?

Hala2 Lawen (Translation: Where Do We Go Now?) by Nadine Labaki

What is favourite English film?

Mamma Mia

Best piece of advice to someone looking for a career at Google?

If you’re interested in a career at Google, deep dive into the different career paths and pinpoint the space you want to join. When you know your space, you’re likely to identify the skills you need to develop.  

 

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The past Palme d'Or winners

2018 Shoplifters, Hirokazu Kore-eda

2017 The Square, Ruben Ostlund

2016 I, Daniel Blake, Ken Loach

2015 DheepanJacques Audiard

2014 Winter Sleep (Kış Uykusu), Nuri Bilge Ceylan

2013 Blue is the Warmest Colour (La Vie d'Adèle: Chapitres 1 et 2), Abdellatif Kechiche, Adele Exarchopoulos and Lea Seydoux

2012 Amour, Michael Haneke

2011 The Tree of LifeTerrence Malick

2010 Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives (Lung Bunmi Raluek Chat), Apichatpong Weerasethakul

2009 The White Ribbon (Eine deutsche Kindergeschichte), Michael Haneke

2008 The Class (Entre les murs), Laurent Cantet

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

 

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

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How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE

When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.

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The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
​​​​​​​Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km

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The White Lotus: Season three

Creator: Mike White

Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell

Rating: 4.5/5

Defined benefit and defined contribution schemes explained

Defined Benefit Plan (DB)

A defined benefit plan is where the benefit is defined by a formula, typically length of service to and salary at date of leaving.

Defined Contribution Plan (DC) 

A defined contribution plan is where the benefit depends on the amount of money put into the plan for an employee, and how much investment return is earned on those contributions.

Total eligible population

About 57.5 million people
51.1 million received a jab
6.4 million have not

Where are the unvaccinated?

England 11%
Scotland 9%
Wales 10%
Northern Ireland 14% 

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Part three: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

Company Profile:

Name: The Protein Bakeshop

Date of start: 2013

Founders: Rashi Chowdhary and Saad Umerani

Based: Dubai

Size, number of employees: 12

Funding/investors:  $400,000 (2018) 

The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Power: 510hp at 9,000rpm
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Price: From Dh801,800
ONCE UPON A TIME IN GAZA

Starring: Nader Abd Alhay, Majd Eid, Ramzi Maqdisi

Directors: Tarzan and Arab Nasser

Rating: 4.5/5

NO OTHER LAND

Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal

Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham

Rating: 3.5/5

What is Reform?

Reform is a right-wing, populist party led by Nigel Farage, a former MEP who won a seat in the House of Commons last year at his eighth attempt and a prominent figure in the campaign for the UK to leave the European Union.

It was founded in 2018 and originally called the Brexit Party.

Many of its members previously belonged to UKIP or the mainstream Conservatives.

After Brexit took place, the party focused on the reformation of British democracy.

Former Tory deputy chairman Lee Anderson became its first MP after defecting in March 2024.

The party gained support from Elon Musk, and had hoped the tech billionaire would make a £100m donation. However, Mr Musk changed his mind and called for Mr Farage to step down as leader in a row involving the US tycoon's support for far-right figurehead Tommy Robinson who is in prison for contempt of court.

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW

Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman

Director: Jesse Armstrong

Rating: 3.5/5

Where to donate in the UAE

The Emirates Charity Portal

You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.

The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments

The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.

Al Noor Special Needs Centre

You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.

Beit Al Khair Society

Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.

Dar Al Ber Society

Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.

Dubai Cares

Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.

Emirates Airline Foundation

Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.

Emirates Red Crescent

On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.

Gulf for Good

Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.

Noor Dubai Foundation

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).

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The National's picks

4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young

UK's plans to cut net migration

Under the UK government’s proposals, migrants will have to spend 10 years in the UK before being able to apply for citizenship.

Skilled worker visas will require a university degree, and there will be tighter restrictions on recruitment for jobs with skills shortages.

But what are described as "high-contributing" individuals such as doctors and nurses could be fast-tracked through the system.

Language requirements will be increased for all immigration routes to ensure a higher level of English.

Rules will also be laid out for adult dependants, meaning they will have to demonstrate a basic understanding of the language.

The plans also call for stricter tests for colleges and universities offering places to foreign students and a reduction in the time graduates can remain in the UK after their studies from two years to 18 months.

Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh590,000

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

Updated: July 29, 2023, 8:24 AM`