UAE

UAE then and now: when Bur Dubai had the city's only traffic lights

Fifty years on, Al Fahidi Street remains a bustling centre of commerce and humanity

James Langton
James Langton

July 15, 2021

  • English
  • Arabic

Today, life in the Emirates moves in the fast lane. In a regular series to mark the 50th anniversary of the UAE we take a little trip back in time to see just how much the country has changed.

Half a century separates these two photographs of Bur Dubai, yet it is still recognisably the same place.

The view is looking down 34th Street towards Al Fahidi Street, then, as now, a bustling centre of commerce and humanity.

What is old in 2021 was new in 1971. There is the apartment block, since rebuilt, which is the central focus of the photo, but also something else, easily overlooked at first glance, now a part of everyday life.

These are traffic lights, the first in Dubai, despite the seeming absence of traffic back in the 1970s.

Dubai Creek in 1966 with an already developed Bur Dubai across the water on left.
Dubai Creek in 1966 with an already developed Bur Dubai across the water on left.
The pace of development only increased since then with new buildings sprouting in Bur Dubai. This shows Al Fahidi Street in 1971 looking towards Port Rashid.
The pace of development only increased since then with new buildings sprouting in Bur Dubai. This shows Al Fahidi Street in 1971 looking towards Port Rashid.
Life revolved around Dubai Creek during this time. It was also the site of the legendary Plaza Cinema that can been seen on the right, while the Dubai Police pipe band parades through the streets. The Plaza was renamed the Golden Cinema in latter years. It closed in 2015.
Life revolved around Dubai Creek during this time. It was also the site of the legendary Plaza Cinema that can been seen on the right, while the Dubai Police pipe band parades through the streets. The Plaza was renamed the Golden Cinema in latter years. It closed in 2015.
The wind towers of Bastakiya in Bur Dubai in the 1970s. The area has been renamed Al Fahidi in the years since. The distinctive curves and circular roof of Deira Tower can be seen on the right.
The wind towers of Bastakiya in Bur Dubai in the 1970s. The area has been renamed Al Fahidi in the years since. The distinctive curves and circular roof of Deira Tower can be seen on the right.
The Bur Dubai side of the upper Dubai Creek in 1972. The new Dubai Airport is on the other side of Creek with little between it and the Creek.
The Bur Dubai side of the upper Dubai Creek in 1972. The new Dubai Airport is on the other side of Creek with little between it and the Creek.
The junction of Fahidi Street and 34th Street in Bur Dubai in the 1970s. The apartment block in the centre is a classic of its time, with clean lines and balconies shaded from the sun.
The junction of Fahidi Street and 34th Street in Bur Dubai in the 1970s. The apartment block in the centre is a classic of its time, with clean lines and balconies shaded from the sun.
Al Fahidi in Bur Dubai, previously known as Bastakiya, was home to many wind towers.
Al Fahidi in Bur Dubai, previously known as Bastakiya, was home to many wind towers.
A water taxi, or abra, is rowed across Dubai Creek in 1963.
A water taxi, or abra, is rowed across Dubai Creek in 1963.
The architecture of Bur Dubai is striking, such as the Al Fardan Building. Many were built in the 1970s and 1980s and contrast with the modern neighbourhoods.
The architecture of Bur Dubai is striking, such as the Al Fardan Building. Many were built in the 1970s and 1980s and contrast with the modern neighbourhoods.
The Rivoli Building in Bur Dubai area in Dubai. Scores of buildings in Bur Dubai feature motifs such as shaded balconies and arches.
The Rivoli Building in Bur Dubai area in Dubai. Scores of buildings in Bur Dubai feature motifs such as shaded balconies and arches.
Bur Dubai at night. The area is known for its vibrant street life.
Bur Dubai at night. The area is known for its vibrant street life.
Bur Dubai is also the site of a Hindu temple and the roads around it get crowded around festivals such as diwali.
Bur Dubai is also the site of a Hindu temple and the roads around it get crowded around festivals such as diwali.
Despite rules such as mask wearing and distancing brought in to curb Covid-19, Bur Dubai retains its spirit. Here a man sits at his stall in the neighbourhood on October 17, 2020.
Despite rules such as mask wearing and distancing brought in to curb Covid-19, Bur Dubai retains its spirit. Here a man sits at his stall in the neighbourhood on October 17, 2020.
The clean architectural lines of the Al Moosa Building in Bur Dubai.
The clean architectural lines of the Al Moosa Building in Bur Dubai.
Another side of Dubai. The Al Moosa Building in Bur Dubai.
Another side of Dubai. The Al Moosa Building in Bur Dubai.
The facade of the Golden Cinema (Plaza) in Bur Dubai. It closed in 2015 amid the rise of multiplexes and changing tastes.
The facade of the Golden Cinema (Plaza) in Bur Dubai. It closed in 2015 amid the rise of multiplexes and changing tastes.

The photograph was taken by Len Chapman, who runs the Dubai As It Used To Be website.

Mr Chapman moved to Dubai with his young family in 1971, making their home at Al Owais building on Al Fahidi Street, one of the city’s earliest high-rise apartment blocks.

The traffic lights were switched off at midnight, he recalls, and became a source of irritation for drivers, who furiously honked horns if it was felt they stayed too long on red.

“When the traffic lights switched on at 6am, drivers started pressing their horn buttons. Apartment residents did not need alarm clocks.”

Mr Chapman has other memories of those days. On the ground floor of Al Owais building was V V & Sons, then the city’s go-to place for electrical and hi-fi goods. Founded in 1958, the company is still in business.

UAE: Then and Now

UAE then and now: Hilton, the hotel that brought air-conditioned luxury to the dunes of Al Ain

UAE then and now: Burj Al Arab, the hotel that introduced Dubai to the world

In the absence of supermarkets, shopping was at K M Brothers grocery (also still going strong), while bread was sold from the back of a van that arrived every evening.

The building on the corner on the right of the photo is another survivor from the 1970s, but pedestrians now walk on pavement rather than the sand sidewalks of those earlier years. On the left, the flag of Dubai can be seen hanging from a shop front.

Mr Chapman lived on Al Fahidi Street for only four months before moving to Jumeirah, but his stay in Dubai lasted more than 30 years. He now lives in Australia but keeps memories of those days alive through his website.

The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Power: 510hp at 9,000rpm
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Price: From Dh801,800
ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.

The hotels

Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.

The tours

A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages. 

On Women's Day
While you're here
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Kareem Shaheen on Canada
The specs

Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors

Power: Combined output 920hp

Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic

Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km

On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025

Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000

COMPANY PROFILE

Founders: Sebastian Stefan, Sebastian Morar and Claudia Pacurar

Based: Dubai, UAE

Founded: 2014

Number of employees: 36

Sector: Logistics

Raised: $2.5 million

Investors: DP World, Prime Venture Partners and family offices in Saudi Arabia and the UAE

The%20specs%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.0-litre%204cyl%20turbo%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E261hp%20at%205%2C500rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E400Nm%20at%201%2C750-4%2C000rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E7-speed%20dual-clutch%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFuel%20consumption%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E10.5L%2F100km%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh129%2C999%20(VX%20Luxury)%3B%20from%20Dh149%2C999%20(VX%20Black%20Gold)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Countries offering golden visas

UK
Innovator Founder Visa is aimed at those who can demonstrate relevant experience in business and sufficient investment funds to set up and scale up a new business in the UK. It offers permanent residence after three years.

Germany
Investing or establishing a business in Germany offers you a residence permit, which eventually leads to citizenship. The investment must meet an economic need and you have to have lived in Germany for five years to become a citizen.

Italy
The scheme is designed for foreign investors committed to making a significant contribution to the economy. Requires a minimum investment of €250,000 which can rise to €2 million.

Switzerland
Residence Programme offers residence to applicants and their families through economic contributions. The applicant must agree to pay an annual lump sum in tax.

Canada
Start-Up Visa Programme allows foreign entrepreneurs the opportunity to create a business in Canada and apply for permanent residence. 

THE SPECS

Engine: 3.6-litre V6

Transmission: nine-speed automatic

Power: 310hp

Torque: 366Nm

Price: Dh200,000

Getting%20there%20and%20where%20to%20stay
%3Cp%3EFly%20with%20Etihad%20Airways%20from%20Abu%20Dhabi%20to%20New%20York%E2%80%99s%20JFK.%20There's%2011%20flights%20a%20week%20and%20economy%20fares%20start%20at%20around%20Dh5%2C000.%3Cbr%3EStay%20at%20The%20Mark%20Hotel%20on%20the%20city%E2%80%99s%20Upper%20East%20Side.%20Overnight%20stays%20start%20from%20%241395%20per%20night.%3Cbr%3EVisit%20NYC%20Go%2C%20the%20official%20destination%20resource%20for%20New%20York%20City%20for%20all%20the%20latest%20events%2C%20activites%20and%20openings.%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
More from this package
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
On Women's Day
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
NO OTHER LAND

Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal

Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham

Rating: 3.5/5

The specs

Price, base / as tested Dh135,000

Engine 1.6L turbo

Gearbox Six speed automatic with manual and sports mode

Power 165hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque 240Nm @ 1,400rpm 0-100kph: 9.2 seconds

Top speed 420 kph (governed)

Fuel economy, combined 35.2L / 100km (est)

TECH%20SPECS%3A%20APPLE%20WATCH%20SERIES%208
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDisplay%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2041mm%2C%20352%20x%20430%3B%2045mm%2C%20396%20x%20484%3B%20Retina%20LTPO%20OLED%2C%20up%20to%201000%20nits%2C%20always-on%3B%20Ion-X%20glass%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EProcessor%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Apple%20S8%2C%20W3%20wireless%2C%20U1%20ultra-wideband%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECapacity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2032GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMemory%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPlatform%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20watchOS%209%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EHealth%20metrics%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203rd-gen%20heart%20rate%20sensor%2C%20temperature%20sensing%2C%20ECG%2C%20blood%20oxygen%2C%20workouts%2C%20fall%2Fcrash%20detection%3B%20emergency%20SOS%2C%20international%20emergency%20calling%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EConnectivity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20GPS%2FGPS%20%2B%20cellular%3B%20Wi-Fi%2C%20LTE%2C%20Bluetooth%205.3%2C%20NFC%20(Apple%20Pay)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDurability%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20IP6X%2C%20water%20resistant%20up%20to%2050m%2C%20dust%20resistant%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBattery%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20308mAh%20Li-ion%2C%20up%20to%2018h%2C%20wireless%20charging%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECards%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20eSIM%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFinishes%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Aluminium%20%E2%80%93%20midnight%2C%20Product%20Red%2C%20silver%2C%20starlight%3B%20stainless%20steel%20%E2%80%93%20gold%2C%20graphite%2C%20silver%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIn%20the%20box%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Watch%20Series%208%2C%20magnetic-to-USB-C%20charging%20cable%2C%20band%2Floop%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Starts%20at%20Dh1%2C599%20(41mm)%20%2F%20Dh1%2C999%20(45mm)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
Zodi%20%26%20Tehu%3A%20Princes%20Of%20The%20Desert
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEric%20Barbier%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EYoussef%20Hajdi%2C%20Nadia%20Benzakour%2C%20Yasser%20Drief%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The biog

Name: Mariam Ketait

Emirate: Dubai

Hobbies: I enjoy travelling, experiencing new things, painting, reading, flying, and the French language

Favourite quote: "Be the change you wish to see" - unknown

Favourite activity: Connecting with different cultures

Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20WonderTree%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20April%202016%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECo-founders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Muhammad%20Waqas%20and%20Muhammad%20Usman%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Karachi%2C%20Pakistan%2C%20Abu%20Dhabi%2C%20UAE%2C%20and%20Delaware%2C%20US%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Special%20education%2C%20education%20technology%2C%20assistive%20technology%2C%20augmented%20reality%3Cbr%3EN%3Cstrong%3Eumber%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E16%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EGrowth%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Grants%20from%20the%20Lego%20Foundation%2C%20UAE's%20Anjal%20Z%2C%20Unicef%2C%20Pakistan's%20Ignite%20National%20Technology%20Fund%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Specs

Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric

Range: Up to 610km

Power: 905hp

Torque: 985Nm

Price: From Dh439,000

Available: Now

Kareem Shaheen on Canada
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

Available: Now

SPECS%3A%20Polestar%203
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ELong-range%20dual%20motor%20with%20400V%20battery%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E360kW%20%2F%20483bhp%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E840Nm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESingle-speed%20automatic%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EMax%20touring%20range%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20628km%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E0-100km%2Fh%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204.7sec%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETop%20speed%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20210kph%20%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh360%2C000%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESeptember%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Updated: July 15, 2021, 4:00 AM`
UAEDubai