It’s raining sunlight on the Greek mountain village of Arachova. The winter sun pours through breaks in the grey, rolling clouds and creates a spotlight effect on the wild, green valley below.
More Alpine than Aegean, Arachova stands apart from Greece’s better known, and sometimes overrun, island destinations. It is close to the ski resorts of Gerontovrachos, Kelaria and Fterolakka — some of the best places for winter sports in central Greece — and is a mere two-hour drive north-west of Athens, meaning the village is assured of year-round business.
Having guaranteed custom is a mixed blessing for those coming here to enjoy a relaxing winter break. Arachova, with its somewhat fairy-tale atmosphere, is well set up for tourism. There is plenty of accommodation, a wealth of tavernas and traditional coffee shops, or kafenia, and transport to nearby Delphi, a Unesco World Heritage archaeological site.
On the other hand, Arachova’s prices reflect the fact that there is little need for anyone to hustle for custom. The 15-minute bus ride to Delphi is a few euros but a taxi there is €15 ($15). A backpackers’ paradise Arachova is not, but what the area has in terms of scenery, food and history makes it hard to beat.
The village runs east to west along Livadias Amfissas and a slow walk along the road is perfect for getting your bearings. At the eastern end of the village, in a fine neoclassical building, is the Ethnographic Museum. The museum preserves the town’s strong rural culture, particularly its traditional crafts — examples of which can be bought at shops up and down the length of the street.
Behind the museum is an 18th-century clock tower perched on top of a small, rocky hill that offers dramatic views over the valley below. It’s a romantic spot and couples can be seen silhouetted against the sunshine, which Greece often enjoys late into the winter.
Passing the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and walking west along the main street, foodies will be pleased to find plenty of shops selling local produce. A firm, cylindrical cheese called formaiella is everywhere and is often served grilled in the village’s tavernas. There are stacks of local honey, bags of homemade pasta, herbs and spices for sale. The ubiquitous Greek olive oil is here, as are woollen carpets, rugs and other textiles made in the local style.
Pushing on into the village, past busy cafes and tavernas, you’ll have plenty more of Arachova’s mountainous panoramas to enjoy. It’s here that the local bus service departs for Delphi, a major archaeological site just a few kilometres to the west.
Delphi is incomparable. Sprawling across the south-west slope of Mount Parnassus, this was where the ancient Greeks believed the centre of the world lay. The rocky omphalos, or "navel" of the world, is still here, as are the remains of Delphi’s temples, its stadium, gym, theatre and treasury.
This was also where the oracle — the high priestess of the god Apollo — sat, delivering her otherworldly prophecies that decided the fate of battles and kingdoms. Some scientists say these visions were caused by noxious gases rising from a chasm beneath the Temple of Apollo, but standing on these slopes, it is more compelling to imagine the ancient gods deciding the fate of their unfortunate subjects.
Delphi can be a steep hike, but the huge site is a treasure trove of knowledge about the ancient Greeks. The museum at the foot of the sanctuary is a mine of information, and the whole site itself is sometimes free to enter — like all Greek archaeological sites, it is free on the first Sunday of the month during winter and spring.
The abundance of fresh air will make you hungry, putting you in the perfect position to try the local cuisine, which owes more to the mountains than to the sea. Back in Arachova, a brisk uphill walk on the edge of town will take you to Kaplanis taverna.
You can try the grilled formaiella cheese or a softer, tangier variety called opsimotiri, which goes well with the restaurant's roasted rooster and local pasta. Aside from Kaplanis’s must-try beetroot and garlic starter is kokoretsi — a dish of seasoned offal wrapped in lamb or goat intestines and grilled on a horizontal skewer. A firm favourite in Turkey, Greece and the Balkans, kokoretsi should not be passed up and Kaplanis does it to perfection.
Kaplanis also gets brownie points for holding on to the Greek tradition of giving its customers a free dessert after the main course — usually yoghurt with honey or glyko tou koutaliou (aka spoon sweets, which are all served with the magic word kerasma, or my treat).
Greece revels in its reputation as a sun-and-sand destination. But with places like Arachova within striking distance of Athens (itself served by direct flights from Abu Dhabi and Dubai), there’s no reason to put off your next Hellenic voyage until the summer rolls around again. And, if anyone asks why you’re going to Greece in the dead of winter, just tell them the oracle sent you.
8 UAE companies helping families reduce their carbon footprint
Greenheart Organic Farms
This Dubai company was one of the country’s first organic farms, set up in 2012, and it now delivers a wide array of fruits and vegetables grown regionally or in the UAE, as well as other grocery items, to both Dubai and Abu Dhabi doorsteps.
www.greenheartuae.com
Modibodi
Founded in Australia, Modibodi is now in the UAE with waste-free, reusable underwear that eliminates the litter created by a woman’s monthly cycle, which adds up to approximately 136kgs of sanitary waste over a lifetime.
www.modibodi.ae
The Good Karma Co
From brushes made of plant fibres to eco-friendly storage solutions, this company has planet-friendly alternatives to almost everything we need, including tin foil and toothbrushes.
www.instagram.com/thegoodkarmaco
Re:told
One Dubai boutique, Re:told, is taking second-hand garments and selling them on at a fraction of the price, helping to cut back on the hundreds of thousands of tonnes of clothes thrown into landfills each year.
www.shopretold.com
Lush
Lush provides products such as shampoo and conditioner as package-free bars with reusable tins to store.
www.mena.lush.com
Bubble Bro
Offering filtered, still and sparkling water on tap, Bubble Bro is attempting to ensure we don’t produce plastic or glass waste. Founded in 2017 by Adel Abu-Aysha, the company is on track to exceeding its target of saving one million bottles by the end of the year.
www.bubble-bro.com
Coethical
This company offers refillable, eco-friendly home cleaning and hygiene products that are all biodegradable, free of chemicals and certifiably not tested on animals.
www.instagram.com/coethical
Eggs & Soldiers
This bricks-and-mortar shop and e-store, founded by a Dubai mum-of-four, is the place to go for all manner of family products – from reusable cloth diapers to organic skincare and sustainable toys.
www.eggsnsoldiers.com
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
500 People from Gaza enter France
115 Special programme for artists
25 Evacuation of injured and sick
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RedCrow Intelligence Company Profile
Started: 2016
Founders: Hussein Nasser Eddin, Laila Akel, Tayeb Akel
Based: Ramallah, Palestine
Sector: Technology, Security
# of staff: 13
Investment: $745,000
Investors: Palestine’s Ibtikar Fund, Abu Dhabi’s Gothams and angel investors
Credit Score explained
What is a credit score?
In the UAE your credit score is a number generated by the Al Etihad Credit Bureau (AECB), which represents your credit worthiness – in other words, your risk of defaulting on any debt repayments. In this country, the number is between 300 and 900. A low score indicates a higher risk of default, while a high score indicates you are a lower risk.
Why is it important?
Financial institutions will use it to decide whether or not you are a credit risk. Those with better scores may also receive preferential interest rates or terms on products such as loans, credit cards and mortgages.
How is it calculated?
The AECB collects information on your payment behaviour from banks as well as utilitiy and telecoms providers.
How can I improve my score?
By paying your bills on time and not missing any repayments, particularly your loan, credit card and mortgage payments. It is also wise to limit the number of credit card and loan applications you make and to reduce your outstanding balances.
How do I know if my score is low or high?
By checking it. Visit one of AECB’s Customer Happiness Centres with an original and valid Emirates ID, passport copy and valid email address. Liv. customers can also access the score directly from the banking app.
How much does it cost?
A credit report costs Dh100 while a report with the score included costs Dh150. Those only wanting the credit score pay Dh60. VAT is payable on top.
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
What the law says
Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.
“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.
“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”
If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.
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Dubai Bling season three
Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed
Rating: 1/5
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
Dhadak 2
Director: Shazia Iqbal
Starring: Siddhant Chaturvedi, Triptii Dimri
Rating: 1/5
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
THE SIXTH SENSE
Starring: Bruce Willis, Toni Collette, Hayley Joel Osment
Director: M. Night Shyamalan
Rating: 5/5
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
more from Janine di Giovanni
UAE v Zimbabwe A, 50 over series
Fixtures
Thursday, Nov 9 - 9.30am, ICC Academy, Dubai
Saturday, Nov 11 – 9.30am, ICC Academy, Dubai
Monday, Nov 13 – 2pm, Dubai International Stadium
Thursday, Nov 16 – 2pm, ICC Academy, Dubai
Saturday, Nov 18 – 9.30am, ICC Academy, Dubai
The specs
Engine: 2.2-litre, turbodiesel
Transmission: 6-speed auto
Power: 160hp
Torque: 385Nm
Price: Dh116,900
On sale: now
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Yuki Means Happiness
Alison Jean Lester
John Murray
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE v Gibraltar
What: International friendly
When: 7pm kick off
Where: Rugby Park, Dubai Sports City
Admission: Free
Online: The match will be broadcast live on Dubai Exiles’ Facebook page
UAE squad: Lucas Waddington (Dubai Exiles), Gio Fourie (Exiles), Craig Nutt (Abu Dhabi Harlequins), Phil Brady (Harlequins), Daniel Perry (Dubai Hurricanes), Esekaia Dranibota (Harlequins), Matt Mills (Exiles), Jaen Botes (Exiles), Kristian Stinson (Exiles), Murray Reason (Abu Dhabi Saracens), Dave Knight (Hurricanes), Ross Samson (Jebel Ali Dragons), DuRandt Gerber (Exiles), Saki Naisau (Dragons), Andrew Powell (Hurricanes), Emosi Vacanau (Harlequins), Niko Volavola (Dragons), Matt Richards (Dragons), Luke Stevenson (Harlequins), Josh Ives (Dubai Sports City Eagles), Sean Stevens (Saracens), Thinus Steyn (Exiles)
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre, four-cylinder turbo
Transmission: seven-speed dual clutch automatic
Power: 169bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh54,500
On sale: now
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025
Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000
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Brief scores:
Toss: Sindhis, elected to field first
Pakhtoons 137-6 (10 ov)
Fletcher 68 not out; Cutting 2-14
Sindhis 129-8 (10 ov)
Perera 47; Sohail 2-18
Western Clubs Champions League:
- Friday, Sep 8 - Abu Dhabi Harlequins v Bahrain
- Friday, Sep 15 – Kandy v Abu Dhabi Harlequins
- Friday, Sep 22 – Kandy v Bahrain
When is VAR used?
• Goals
• Penalty decisions
• Direct red-card incidents
• Mistaken identity
