He was a peasant who miraculously became a samurai and one of Japan's greatest leaders, and eventually reunified his strife-torn country in the 1500s. But for Kita-no-Mandokoro, the feared and famed Toyotomi Hideyoshi was simply the love of her life. Someone she missed so dearly that when he died, she dedicated herself to building an extraordinary temple in his honour.
Most of the travellers that visit Kodai-ji Temple are probably unaware that, just like India's famed Taj Mahal, this Buddhist masterpiece is a symbol of everlasting love.
Scroll through the gallery above for more pictures of the Kodai-ji Temple
The Taj Mahal is admired not only for its majestic architecture — the white marble mausoleum is also revered for its romantic back story. It was built almost 400 years ago by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a magnificent tomb for Mumtaz Mahal, his adored wife of nearly two decades, who died during childbirth.
On her deathbed, the emperor promised his wife she would have the most lavish resting place the world had witnessed. He was true to his word.
Similarly spectacular, yet not nearly as famous, is the Kyoto temple erected as a memorial to Hideyoshi by his wife. I was unfamiliar with their tale of eternal devotion until I entered this sprawling Buddhist complex.
Kodai-ji temple commands an attractive location at the foot of the Higashiyama Ryozen mountains. It is one of many Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in Higashiyama, Kyoto’s charming old town. This is among the most authentic ancient neighbourhoods in all of Japan, full of narrow streets lined with historic wooden buildings and traversed by the city’s famed geishas. Many female tourists to Kyoto dress up as these snowy-faced entertainers while exploring Higashiyama.
I came across such a group on the stunning grounds of Kodai-ji. This sequence of 17th-century prayer halls, pavilions and bridges is carefully arranged among the natural splendour of forests, ponds and bamboo groves. It is particularly striking in November when Japan’s autumnal bloom bathes the temple in a palette of warm colours. As befitting its standing as a monument of love, Kodai-ji’s many scenic nooks are popular backdrops for cuddling couples, posing families and wedding shoots.
While waiting my turn to photograph a particularly appealing spot, I read about Kodai-ji’s history. It centres on the monumental figure of Hideyoshi, who was born into a working-class family in 1536, during a long passage of bloody turbulence in Japan known as the Warring States period.
This era was triggered by the Onin War of 1467 to 1477, during which the country’s military government lost its authority. Into this power vacuum stepped many warlords who fought over territory for more than a century thereafter. Rather than accept his marginal place in Japanese society, Hideyoshi aimed high. At a young age, he left home to become a soldier and, eventually, ascended to the rank of samurai.
Gradually, he gained allies and leverage until he became one of the country’s most powerful warlords, feared from north to south. He led his armies from behind the lofty walls of what are now two of Japan’s biggest tourist attractions, Osaka Castle and Himeji Castle.
It was from within the former monumental complex that Hideyoshi and two other warlords finally reunited Japan. Together, they formed the Tokugawa shogunate. This military government ended the Warring States period and then controlled Japan in relative peace for more than 250 years.
Hideyoshi’s image now adorns many public spaces across the country. That includes the interior of Kodai-ji Temple, where he is pictured alongside the woman who built this gorgeous setting in his memory. Kita-no-Mandokoro, also known as Nene, was at Hideyoshi’s side for the final 37 years of his life.
When they married, in 1561, Hideyoshi was only a low-level soldier. Nene did not become a trophy partner or a housewife. Instead, she rose alongside her ambitious and ruthless husband, becoming an influential figure in his clan. He reportedly showed her great respect and leaned on her judgment, even in military matters.
In this way, they became one of the first power couples in Japanese history, him leading their charges into battle and her strategising from within their many castles. This made their relationship unique during an era in Japan when wives typically were very subordinate to their husbands.
It should be said, though, their marriage was far from a fairy tale and the couple were often separated by distance. But their unusually deep bond persisted even after his death in 1598. And now, it is embodied by Kodai-ji.
This complex manages to encapsulate many of the joys of Kyoto, Japan’s most traditional city. Kyoto is renowned for its religious sites, classical gardens, verdant forests and magnificent bamboo groves, all of which feature inside the ornate stone walls of Kodai-ji.
When she had it built in the early 1600s, Nene wanted this temple to be a site of serenity and contemplation, somewhere she could wander alone while remembering her late husband. I found it to be a remarkably peaceful place. In the late afternoon, as sun rays filtered through the thousands of stalks in its bamboo grove, I put down my camera for a few minutes and soaked in the gentle light and lulling atmosphere.
Equally majestic is the nearby temple garden, which I discovered is laden with maple trees, their leaves ranging from gold to orange, pink and red. It is flanked by Houjyo, the main prayer hall, which is embellished by gilded designs, and a sparse but attractive stone garden.
Beyond that is Otama-ya, the hall that commemorates Hideyoshi and Nene. At its centre is a gold-and-silver thread coat once worn by Hideyoshi. He donned such garments over his armour during the battles that preceded his successful reunification of Japan. When he returned from the front lines, a special woman was waiting for him. An ally and a confidante, Nene honoured her husband in life and, by building Kodai-ji, celebrated their love in perpetuity.
Scores in brief:
- New Medical Centre 129-5 in 17 overs bt Zayed Cricket Academy 125-6 in 20 overs.
- William Hare Abu Dhabi Gymkhana 188-8 in 20 overs bt One Stop Tourism 184-8 in 20 overs
- Alubond Tigers 138-7 in 20 overs bt United Bank Limited 132-7 in 20 overs
- Multiplex 142-6 in 17 overs bt Xconcepts Automobili 140 all out in 20 overs
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
MATCH INFO
Newcastle United 3
Gayle (23'), Perez (59', 63')
Chelsea 0
RESULTS
Bantamweight: Jalal Al Daaja (JOR) beat Hamza Bougamza (MAR)
Catchweight 67kg: Mohamed El Mesbahi (MAR) beat Fouad Mesdari (ALG)
Lightweight: Abdullah Mohammed Ali (UAE) beat Abdelhak Amhidra (MAR)
Catchweight 73kg: Mosatafa Ibrahim Radi (PAL) beat Yazid Chouchane (ALG)
Middleweight: Yousri Belgaroui (TUN) beat Badreddine Diani (MAR)
Catchweight 78KG: Rashed Dawood (UAE) beat Adnan Bushashy (ALG)
Middleweight: Sallah-Eddine Dekhissi (MAR) beat Abdel Enam (EGY)
Catchweight 65kg: Yanis Ghemmouri (ALG) beat Rachid Hazoume (MAR)
Lightweight: Mohammed Yahya (UAE) beat Azouz Anwar (EGY)
Catchweight 79kg: Souhil Tahiri (ALG) beat Omar Hussein (PAL)
Middleweight: Tarek Suleiman (SYR) beat Laid Zerhouni (ALG)
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Company%20profile
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Marvel's%20Spider-Man%202
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Assassin's%20Creed%20Mirage
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Starfield
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MATCH INFO
West Ham United 2 (Antonio 73', Ogbonna 90 5')
Tottenham Hotspur 3 (Son 36', Moura 42', Kane 49')
The%20specs
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MATCH INFO
Tottenham Hotspur 1
Kane (50')
Newcastle United 0
Ultra processed foods
- Carbonated drinks, sweet or savoury packaged snacks, confectionery, mass-produced packaged breads and buns
- margarines and spreads; cookies, biscuits, pastries, cakes, and cake mixes, breakfast cereals, cereal and energy bars;
- energy drinks, milk drinks, fruit yoghurts and fruit drinks, cocoa drinks, meat and chicken extracts and instant sauces
- infant formulas and follow-on milks, health and slimming products such as powdered or fortified meal and dish substitutes,
- many ready-to-heat products including pre-prepared pies and pasta and pizza dishes, poultry and fish nuggets and sticks, sausages, burgers, hot dogs, and other reconstituted meat products, powdered and packaged instant soups, noodles and desserts.
MATCH INFO
What: 2006 World Cup quarter-final
When: July 1
Where: Gelsenkirchen Stadium, Gelsenkirchen, Germany
Result:
England 0 Portugal 0
(Portugal win 3-1 on penalties)
Meydan racecard:
6.30pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round 2 (PA) Group 1 | US$75,000 (Dirt) | 2,200 metres
7.05pm: UAE 1000 Guineas (TB) Listed | $250,000 (D) | 1,600m
7.40pm: Meydan Classic Trial (TB) Conditions | $100,000 (Turf) | 1,400m
8.15pm: Al Shindagha Sprint (TB) Group 3 | $200,000 (D) | 1,200m
8.50pm: Handicap (TB) | $175,000 (D) | 1,600m
9.25pm: Handicap (TB) | $175,000 (T) | 2,000m
10pm: Handicap (TB) | $135,000 (T) | 1,600m
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
If you go
Flying
Despite the extreme distance, flying to Fairbanks is relatively simple, requiring just one transfer in Seattle, which can be reached directly from Dubai with Emirates for Dh6,800 return.
Touring
Gondwana Ecotours’ seven-day Polar Bear Adventure starts in Fairbanks in central Alaska before visiting Kaktovik and Utqiarvik on the North Slope. Polar bear viewing is highly likely in Kaktovik, with up to five two-hour boat tours included. Prices start from Dh11,500 per person, with all local flights, meals and accommodation included; gondwanaecotours.com
Results:
First Test: New Zealand 30 British & Irish Lions 15
Second Test: New Zealand 21 British & Irish Lions 24
Third Test: New Zealand 15 British & Irish Lions 15
Brief scores:
Newcastle United 1
Perez 23'
Wolverhampton Rovers 2
Jota 17', Doherty 90' 4
Red cards: Yedlin 57'
Man of the Match: Diogo Jota (Wolves)
WOMAN AND CHILD
Director: Saeed Roustaee
Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi
Rating: 4/5
Ukraine%20exports
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Read more about the coronavirus
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Know your Camel lingo
The bairaq is a competition for the best herd of 50 camels, named for the banner its winner takes home
Namoos - a word of congratulations reserved for falconry competitions, camel races and camel pageants. It best translates as 'the pride of victory' - and for competitors, it is priceless
Asayel camels - sleek, short-haired hound-like racers
Majahim - chocolate-brown camels that can grow to weigh two tonnes. They were only valued for milk until camel pageantry took off in the 1990s
Millions Street - the thoroughfare where camels are led and where white 4x4s throng throughout the festival
Rajasthan Royals 153-5 (17.5 ov)
Delhi Daredevils 60-4 (6 ov)
Rajasthan won by 10 runs (D/L method)
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