Nice by name, nice by nature.
With a mix of old-world opulence and year-round sunshine, the French Riviera city has coastline, culture and charm by the bucketload.
Unesco-listed in 2021, the principal of the Cote d’Azur entices holidaymakers with its sights, sounds and flavours. The birthplace of jazz in France, Nice is also where you'll find some of the best restaurants in the south of the country. Here, dishes come alive with fresh, local fare from the Mediterranean Sea.
In the Old Town, colours and atmosphere nod to the region's historic Italian past, and the city's fashionable boutiques, effortlessly cool eateries and pebbled beaches offer something for everyone.
Getting to this French seaside destination from the Gulf is easier than ever as Etihad Airways now operates seasonal flights. Gulf Air also flies direct to Nice from Bahrain. If you’re planning on spending a few days exploring this gem, here’s what should be on your radar.
The promenade
Any visit to Nice should start on the Promenade des Anglais, the city’s most popular destination on the outskirts of the Old Town. Flanked by palm trees, it's home to some of the best hotels including the eccentric pink-domed Le Negresco — a legendary spot that's been a favourite of celebrities, royalty, millionaires and politicians for more than 100 years.
The seven-kilometre promenade was once the preferred strolling spot for British aristocrats and, more than a century later, is still the place to go for a morning run, a scenic amble or an evening drink at one of the myriad waterfront bars and restaurants. Try boho-chic Ruhl Plage for a sundowner overlooking the Bay of Angels, or grab a table at Les Jardins du Capitole, where you can order a Nicoise salad — the dish originates from the region — served traditional-style on a platter of lettuce, right opposite the ocean. Painted public benches and pergolas offering shade from the Mediterranean sunshine make this a great place to people-watch, so grab an ice cream and take in the view.
Forget golden sands, the majority of Nice’s beaches are pebble-strewn, which can take a bit of getting used to when it comes to sunbathing. There are several beach clubs dotted along the shoreline including Regence Plage and Plage Beau Rivage Nice that you can pay to enter, but if you want to lounge like the locals, pack a yoga mat for some extra padding and go to one of the public beaches. Head west off the main strip to find quieter spots and crystal-clear waters perfect for a swim and a snorkel.
From here, stroll upwards away from the promenade and you’ll reach hilltop neighbourhood Fabron. This leafy residential area has amazing views of the coastline and is also home to a lesser-known museum showcasing the history of Naive Art. Stop at Boulangerie Napoleon III, where it's worth the calories to treat yourself to one of the city's best almond croissants.
Flower markets and live jazz in the Old Town
As the fifth-largest city in France, Nice is not small, but its efficient tramway makes getting around easy. Hop aboard for an afternoon in the heart of the Unesco-listed city. Disembark at Opera — Vieille Ville and you’ll find yourself in the Old Town. This cavern of winding alleyways throngs with visitors, vendors and locals who mosey along shadowed streets lined with historic tenement buildings, restaurants, galleries, cafes and more.
If you prefer, save this spot until the morning when early birds are rewarded with a colourful, fragrant experience at the Flower Market in Cours Saleya square. Under red-and-white striped awnings, this market is more than 100 years old and you'll find every flower imaginable — from deep-violet lavenders to sunshine yellow mimosas. Evening visits offer fewer florals, but more music at Apero Jazz at Cafe le Flore, an open-air French restaurant with live New Orleans-style tunes. If you can’t get a table, don't fret, there's more live jazz at nearby Palais de Justice Square.
Towering over the Old Town is the Castle on the Hill. Not the inspiration for Ed Sheeran’s 2017 hit of the same name, but home to the ruins of the Castle of Nice, which was destroyed some 300 years ago. Perched almost 100 metres above the rooftops of the Old Town, it’s the place to go for dramatic harbour views. At the top, you’ll find a picturesque park and artificial waterfall, visitors can also ride the art deco-style public lift 92 metres down to the port below.
Italian charm in the South of France
Not far from Castle Hill is Garibaldi Square — a reference to this French city when it was part of the Provence of Liguria. A bronze statue and fountain in the centre are dedicated to Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi, who was born here. At the top of the square, opposite the 18th-century Chapelle du Saint-Sepulcre, stop to view the open-air exhibition, running until October
Nica La Bella Treasure of the Riviera showcases photographs of Nice, its people and its visitors. It includes canvasses depicting Queen Victoria holidaying in the French Riviera, Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall visiting in 2018 and French rock 'n' roll star Johnny Hallyday riding a bicycle along the promenade.
If you’re peckish afterwards, sample some of the city’s most-renowned oysters at nearby Cafe du Turin, or indulge at long-standing patisserie Serain Cappa.
To the west is Place Massena, the main square in Nice. Here you’ll find salmon and ochre-coloured buildings, towering illuminated Buddha-style statues and the grandiose Fontaine du Soleil which depicts Apollo as the sun and five bronze statues denoting planets. Dining at nearby L'Aromate, a one Michelin-starred restaurant serving contemporary French fare, comes highly recommended.
Nice’s flagship urban park is also right by the fountain, covering 12 hectares in the heart of the city. The Promenade du Paillon is popular with families for its shaded, tree-lined areas and fantastical wooden animal climbing frames and you’ll see children run and shriek in the Miroir d'Eau — a 3,000-square-metre paved area dotted with water jets soaking anyone in their vicinity.
If shopping is on your radar, Le Carre d’Or is the place to go for all things luxury. This chic district is famed for its boutique stores and belle epoque architecture and counts Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Armani and Hermes boutiques among its well-heeled residents.
Art, cathedrals and sunsets to remember
For more budget-friendly retail therapy, the Jean-Medecin district offers French shopping and dining galore. It’s also where you can indulge your cultural cravings at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Musee Massena, a venue with plenty of historic artwork and artefacts. If you visit the former, don’t miss the observation deck on the roof which has 360-degree views over the city.
Just behind the museum is La Tete Carree Library, a massive cube-shaped sculpture of a head, within which you’ll discover an entire library. Even if you don't venture inside, it's a worthy photo. After an intense shopping and culture marathon, revive yourself with French cheese and charcuterie boards at nearby Bay Side restaurant and bar.
Should your craving for art not yet be sated, head a little out of the city towards the Cimiez neighbourhood and The Musee Matisse. This homage to Henri Matisse has one of the world’s largest collections of the artist’s work, including painting, photographs, and decorative objects.
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On your way back into town, detour slightly if you want to see the most ornate onion-domed Russian cathedral in the South of France. Located on Avenue Nicolas II, just off Boulevard du Tzarewitch, Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas de Nice is the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in western Europe and its unique beauty — with colourful architecture, ornate interiors and detailed murals — makes it worthy of a visit, despite a distinct lack of visitor information.
South of here and back towards the ocean is The AC Hotel Nice by Marriott. This art-centric abode is flanked by two huge bronze Venus sculptures and regularly hosts exhibitions showcasing local artists. Up on the roof is Farago, a place demanding to be visited around sunset.
With perhaps the best golden hour views in the city with vistas over the Mediterranean, the terracotta rooftops in Nice and the distant Southern Alps, this poolside terrace also serves excellent tapas and live music and is an entirely fitting place to watch the sun go down on a thrilling weekend in the Cote d'Azur capital.
The Two Popes
Director: Fernando Meirelles
Stars: Anthony Hopkins, Jonathan Pryce
Four out of five stars
The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Cricket World Cup League 2
UAE results
Lost to Oman by eight runs
Beat Namibia by three wickets
Lost to Oman by 12 runs
Beat Namibia by 43 runs
UAE fixtures
Free admission. All fixtures broadcast live on icc.tv
Tuesday March 15, v PNG at Sharjah Cricket Stadium
Friday March 18, v Nepal at Dubai International Stadium
Saturday March 19, v PNG at Dubai International Stadium
Monday March 21, v Nepal at Dubai International Stadium
Notable salonnières of the Middle East through history
Al Khasan (Okaz, Saudi Arabia)
Tamadir bint Amr Al Harith, known simply as Al Khasan, was a poet from Najd famed for elegies, earning great renown for the eulogy of her brothers Mu’awiyah and Sakhr, both killed in tribal wars. Although not a salonnière, this prestigious 7th century poet fostered a culture of literary criticism and could be found standing in the souq of Okaz and reciting her poetry, publicly pronouncing her views and inviting others to join in the debate on scholarship. She later converted to Islam.
Maryana Marrash (Aleppo)
A poet and writer, Marrash helped revive the tradition of the salon and was an active part of the Nadha movement, or Arab Renaissance. Born to an established family in Aleppo in Ottoman Syria in 1848, Marrash was educated at missionary schools in Aleppo and Beirut at a time when many women did not receive an education. After touring Europe, she began to host salons where writers played chess and cards, competed in the art of poetry, and discussed literature and politics. An accomplished singer and canon player, music and dancing were a part of these evenings.
Princess Nazil Fadil (Cairo)
Princess Nazil Fadil gathered religious, literary and political elite together at her Cairo palace, although she stopped short of inviting women. The princess, a niece of Khedive Ismail, believed that Egypt’s situation could only be solved through education and she donated her own property to help fund the first modern Egyptian University in Cairo.
Mayy Ziyadah (Cairo)
Ziyadah was the first to entertain both men and women at her Cairo salon, founded in 1913. The writer, poet, public speaker and critic, her writing explored language, religious identity, language, nationalism and hierarchy. Born in Nazareth, Palestine, to a Lebanese father and Palestinian mother, her salon was open to different social classes and earned comparisons with souq of where Al Khansa herself once recited.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The years Ramadan fell in May
The Bio
Hometown: Bogota, Colombia
Favourite place to relax in UAE: the desert around Al Mleiha in Sharjah or the eastern mangroves in Abu Dhabi
The one book everyone should read: 100 Years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez. It will make your mind fly
Favourite documentary: Chasing Coral by Jeff Orlowski. It's a good reality check about one of the most valued ecosystems for humanity
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
WHAT ARE NFTs?
Non-fungible tokens (NFTs) are tokens that represent ownership of unique items. They allow the tokenisation of things such as art, collectibles and even real estate.
An NFT can have only one official owner at one time. And since they're minted and secured on the Ethereum blockchain, no one can modify the record of ownership, not even copy-paste it into a new one.
This means NFTs are not interchangeable and cannot be exchanged with other items. In contrast, fungible items, such as fiat currencies, can be exchanged because their value defines them rather than their unique properties.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The view from The National
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Essentials
The flights
Etihad (etihad.ae) and flydubai (flydubai.com) fly direct to Baku three times a week from Dh1,250 return, including taxes.
The stay
A seven-night “Fundamental Detox” programme at the Chenot Palace (chenotpalace.com/en) costs from €3,000 (Dh13,197) per person, including taxes, accommodation, 3 medical consultations, 2 nutritional consultations, a detox diet, a body composition analysis, a bio-energetic check-up, four Chenot bio-energetic treatments, six Chenot energetic massages, six hydro-aromatherapy treatments, six phyto-mud treatments, six hydro-jet treatments and access to the gym, indoor pool, sauna and steam room. Additional tests and treatments cost extra.
My Country: A Syrian Memoir
Kassem Eid, Bloomsbury
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
The five pillars of Islam
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Name: Brendalle Belaza
From: Crossing Rubber, Philippines
Arrived in the UAE: 2007
Favourite place in Abu Dhabi: NYUAD campus
Favourite photography style: Street photography
Favourite book: Harry Potter
The five pillars of Islam
1. Fasting
2. Prayer
3. Hajj
4. Shahada
5. Zakat
The burning issue
The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on
Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins
Read part one: how cars came to the UAE
Zayed Sustainability Prize
What is graphene?
Graphene is extracted from graphite and is made up of pure carbon.
It is 200 times more resistant than steel and five times lighter than aluminum.
It conducts electricity better than any other material at room temperature.
It is thought that graphene could boost the useful life of batteries by 10 per cent.
Graphene can also detect cancer cells in the early stages of the disease.
The material was first discovered when Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov were 'playing' with graphite at the University of Manchester in 2004.
Episode list:
Ep1: A recovery like no other- the unevenness of the economic recovery
Ep2: PCR and jobs - the future of work - new trends and challenges
Ep3: The recovery and global trade disruptions - globalisation post-pandemic
Ep4: Inflation- services and goods - debt risks
Ep5: Travel and tourism
What can you do?
Document everything immediately; including dates, times, locations and witnesses
Seek professional advice from a legal expert
You can report an incident to HR or an immediate supervisor
You can use the Ministry of Human Resources and Emiratisation’s dedicated hotline
In criminal cases, you can contact the police for additional support
MATCH INFO
Euro 2020 qualifier
Croatia v Hungary, Thursday, 10.45pm, UAE
TV: Match on BeIN Sports
David Haye record
Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4
UK's plans to cut net migration
Under the UK government’s proposals, migrants will have to spend 10 years in the UK before being able to apply for citizenship.
Skilled worker visas will require a university degree, and there will be tighter restrictions on recruitment for jobs with skills shortages.
But what are described as "high-contributing" individuals such as doctors and nurses could be fast-tracked through the system.
Language requirements will be increased for all immigration routes to ensure a higher level of English.
Rules will also be laid out for adult dependants, meaning they will have to demonstrate a basic understanding of the language.
The plans also call for stricter tests for colleges and universities offering places to foreign students and a reduction in the time graduates can remain in the UK after their studies from two years to 18 months.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
Tank warfare
Lt Gen Erik Petersen, deputy chief of programs, US Army, has argued it took a “three decade holiday” on modernising tanks.
“There clearly remains a significant armoured heavy ground manoeuvre threat in this world and maintaining a world class armoured force is absolutely vital,” the general said in London last week.
“We are developing next generation capabilities to compete with and deter adversaries to prevent opportunism or miscalculation, and, if necessary, defeat any foe decisively.”
Zayed Sustainability Prize
The five pillars of Islam
The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm
Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)
On sale: Now
Trippier bio
Date of birth September 19, 1990
Place of birth Bury, United Kingdom
Age 26
Height 1.74 metres
Nationality England
Position Right-back
Foot Right
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
The years Ramadan fell in May
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
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SPECS
Toyota land Cruiser 2020 5.7L VXR
Engine: 5.7-litre V8
Transmission: eight-speed automatic
Power: 362hp
Torque: 530Nm
Price: Dh329,000 (base model 4.0L EXR Dh215,900)
TEACHERS' PAY - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Pay varies significantly depending on the school, its rating and the curriculum. Here's a rough guide as of January 2021:
- top end schools tend to pay Dh16,000-17,000 a month - plus a monthly housing allowance of up to Dh6,000. These tend to be British curriculum schools rated 'outstanding' or 'very good', followed by American schools
- average salary across curriculums and skill levels is about Dh10,000, recruiters say
- it is becoming more common for schools to provide accommodation, sometimes in an apartment block with other teachers, rather than hand teachers a cash housing allowance
- some strong performing schools have cut back on salaries since the pandemic began, sometimes offering Dh16,000 including the housing allowance, which reflects the slump in rental costs, and sheer demand for jobs
- maths and science teachers are most in demand and some schools will pay up to Dh3,000 more than other teachers in recognition of their technical skills
- at the other end of the market, teachers in some Indian schools, where fees are lower and competition among applicants is intense, can be paid as low as Dh3,000 per month
- in Indian schools, it has also become common for teachers to share residential accommodation, living in a block with colleagues
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 258hp from 5,000-6,500rpm
Torque: 400Nm from 1,550-4,000rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.1L/100km
Price: from Dh362,500
On sale: now
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre, four-cylinder turbo
Transmission: seven-speed dual clutch automatic
Power: 169bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh54,500
On sale: now
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Race card for Super Saturday
4pm: Al Bastakiya Listed US$250,000 (Dh918,125) (Dirt) 1,900m.
4.35pm: Mahab Al Shimaal Group 3 $200,000 (D) 1,200m.
5.10pm: Nad Al Sheba Conditions $200,000 (Turf) 1,200m.
5.45pm: Burj Nahaar Group 3 $200,000 (D) 1,600m.
6.20pm: Jebel Hatta Group 1 $300,000 (T) 1,800m.
6.55pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round 3 Group 1 $400,000 (D) 2,000m.
7.30pm: Dubai City of Gold Group 2 $250,000 (T) 2,410m.
TV (UAE time);
OSN Sports: from 10am
TOUCH RULES
Touch is derived from rugby league. Teams consist of up to 14 players with a maximum of six on the field at any time.
Teams can make as many substitutions as they want during the 40 minute matches.
Similar to rugby league, the attacking team has six attempts - or touches - before possession changes over.
A touch is any contact between the player with the ball and a defender, and must be with minimum force.
After a touch the player performs a “roll-ball” - similar to the play-the-ball in league - stepping over or rolling the ball between the feet.
At the roll-ball, the defenders have to retreat a minimum of five metres.
A touchdown is scored when an attacking player places the ball on or over the score-line.
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Tips to avoid getting scammed
1) Beware of cheques presented late on Thursday
2) Visit an RTA centre to change registration only after receiving payment
3) Be aware of people asking to test drive the car alone
4) Try not to close the sale at night
5) Don't be rushed into a sale
6) Call 901 if you see any suspicious behaviour
The biog:
From: Wimbledon, London, UK
Education: Medical doctor
Hobbies: Travelling, meeting new people and cultures
Favourite animals: All of them
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