A high-pitched sound pierces Maya Bay, carrying across the water and echoing off the limestone cliffs that surround this world-renowned beach. A group of Thai tourists are thigh-deep in the sea, admiring what appears to be a tiny shark. As they turn around, startled by the lifeguard whistle that signals they’ve broken a new no-swimming rule, the creature glides away into a pristine and empty stretch of ocean.
The last time I was here, eight years ago, Thailand's Maya Bay, which was made famous by the Leonardo DiCaprio film The Beach, was populated not by marine life, but by dozens of smoke-spewing longtail boats, which ferried the hordes of noisy tourists who cloaked this beach. That disappointing experience in 2014 shocked me owing to the huge contrast with my first visit to Maya Bay. Back in 2006, I found it comparatively silent and uncrowded. It was a majestic place.
Then mass tourism soiled this paradise, which is part of the spectacular Phi Phi Islands, in the Andaman Sea midway between the travel hotspots of Phuket to its west and Krabi to its east. Maya Bay, on Phi Phi Leh island, became increasingly polluted by endless visitors and vessels. Thai scientists discovered that its marine life was dwindling and its coral reefs were being decimated.
In June 2018, action was taken: Maya Bay was closed to tourists, initially for four months to give its marine ecosystem time to recover. But as the crowds cleared, the true extent of their impact on this marine ecosystem became apparent and the closure was extended to January 2022.
Now, Maya Bay is back, with a new, more eco-friendly tourism strategy in place. I was sceptical about its makeover before I visited in February, expecting to see large crowds and old destructive behaviours creeping in. Fortunately, the Thai authorities have done a good job of not only allowing Maya Bay time to replenish itself, but in introducing strict new rules that, if maintained, should preserve this natural gem for generations to come.
Boats can no longer moor inside Maya Bay, swimming in its waters is banned and tourists can only stay there for one hour. Visitors must pre-book an entry pass costing Dh45 using a Thai government app, and then arrive by boat on the opposite side of Phi Phi Leh island before walking through the jungle to this famed strip of sand.
The scale of tourism here prior to Maya Bay’s closure was astonishing. The Phi Phi Islands are petite, more than 40 times smaller in land area than Phuket island. Yet, in 2017 alone, they received 1.7 million tourists, most of whom visited Maya Bay. I find this information at the Marine Discovery Centre at SAii Phi Phi Island Village Resort on Phi Phi Don, the largest of the Phi Phi islands.
This impressive beachfront property, which opened early last year after a comprehensive makeover of an old resort, is symbolic of the change in attitude towards tourism and environmental preservation in the Phi Phi Islands. SAii has a marine biologist on staff and has been involved in local conservation efforts, including the Save Our Sharks campaign.
That project aims to protect the Andaman Sea’s endangered bamboo shark. This small species, typically only 60 centimetres to 70cm long, may be what those Thai visitors were entranced by at Maya Bay before they received that warning whistle.
There has rarely been a better moment to visit the Phi Phi Islands. While its environment has been recovering, its infrastructure has been upgraded, with a host of new accommodation options. SAii Phi Phi Island Village Resort is the most luxurious property to open here during the pandemic.
The resort is flanked on one side by jungle-draped hills and on the other by a 600 metre-long sandy beach. From my luxurious one-bedroom villa, which has its own pool and a large lounge overlooking a valley, all I can hear is the occasional rustle of the long-tailed macaques that lived in the surrounding trees.
SAii staff secure my entry pass to Maya Bay, which would otherwise have been a difficult task owing to the absence of an English language option on the government app that approves visitors. One of SAii’s traditional Thai longtail boats meets me outside the resort’s Api beachfront restaurant and takes me on an illuminating tour of Phi Phi Leh.
While I am not allowed to take a dip at Maya Bay, this tour includes a sequence of phenomenal swimming and snorkelling locations on the eastern and southern sides of Phi Phi Leh. After four hours in this once-ruined location, I return to my villa at SAii with a smile. Maya Bay is back in fine health. Just like when I fell in love with it at first sight, 18 years ago.
What the law says
Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.
“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.
“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”
If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Dhadak 2
Director: Shazia Iqbal
Starring: Siddhant Chaturvedi, Triptii Dimri
Rating: 1/5
MATCH INFO
Fulham 0
Aston Villa 3 (Grealish 4', Hourihane 15', Mings 48')
Man of the match: Jack Grealish (Aston Villa)
Match info
Uefa Champions League Group H
Juventus v Valencia, Tuesday, midnight (UAE)
Most sought after workplace benefits in the UAE
- Flexible work arrangements
- Pension support
- Mental well-being assistance
- Insurance coverage for optical, dental, alternative medicine, cancer screening
- Financial well-being incentives
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
MATCH INFO
Champions League quarter-final, first leg
Tottenham Hotspur v Manchester City, Tuesday, 11pm (UAE)
Matches can be watched on BeIN Sports
How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
Difference between fractional ownership and timeshare
Although similar in its appearance, the concept of a fractional title deed is unlike that of a timeshare, which usually involves multiple investors buying “time” in a property whereby the owner has the right to occupation for a specified period of time in any year, as opposed to the actual real estate, said John Peacock, Head of Indirect Tax and Conveyancing, BSA Ahmad Bin Hezeem & Associates, a law firm.
FIRST TEST SCORES
England 458
South Africa 361 & 119 (36.4 overs)
England won by 211 runs and lead series 1-0
Player of the match: Moeen Ali (England)
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
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