Sake Dean Mahomed: the Muslim trailblazer who opened London's first curry house


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After high tea, the cuisine most embedded in London’s identity may well be Indian food.

Not only is it enormously popular, with more than 100 Indian restaurants across the English capital, but this Asian cuisine represents the wide spectrum of influences in one of the world’s most ethnically diverse cities.

Indian food is so intrinsically linked to London that, each October, the city celebrates Curry Week.

Which is why I was not impressed by the small plaque I found in central London in September. It seemed like such an insignificant tribute for the man who pioneered Indian cuisine in the capital.

That description, in itself, is an inadequate one for Sake Dean Mahomed, a Muslim who left a sizeable imprint on Europe in the late 1700s to mid-1800s.

A plaque marks the site of London's first Indian restaurant, opened by Mahomed. Photo: Ronan O'Connell
A plaque marks the site of London's first Indian restaurant, opened by Mahomed. Photo: Ronan O'Connell

Mahomed not only opened London's first Indian restaurant, he did business with royalty, was the first Indian author published in English, and popularised the practice of shampooing across the continent.

After reading about his remarkable life this year, I decided to follow Mahomed’s trail. From the ancient markets of Ireland to the high streets and leafy parks of London, I traced the journey of this fascinating character who departed India in 1784 to become a celebrity in Europe.

I started in a city close to my heart: Cork. This Irish metropolis, where my father was born and raised, was Mahomed’s landing point when he arrived in Europe at the age of 25.

Set on the banks of the River Lee, which flows into the nearby Atlantic Ocean, Cork is an attractive city with a population of about 200,000.

Cork would have been an exotic environment for a young Indian man in the 18th century, a time when Ireland was almost entirely Caucasian.

At the heart of this city is the English Market. Housed within a stately old building, it hosts more than 50 businesses, from butchers to fishmongers, jewellers, fresh produce vendors, and shops selling clothing, instruments, handicrafts and Irish art.

This market would have been one of the few places in Cork where Mahomed felt somewhat at home. That’s because it was the city’s chief trading place and sold spices and ingredients from over the world, including India. It had only recently been built when Mahomed arrived in Cork from his home town of Patna in north-east India.

Sake Dean Mahomed moved from Patna, India to Ireland and then England. Photo: Brighton Museum
Sake Dean Mahomed moved from Patna, India to Ireland and then England. Photo: Brighton Museum

This stage of his life is explained in The Travels of Dean Mahomed, a book that combines Mahomed’s writings with a vivid description of his time in Ireland and England by historian Michael H Fisher.

Mahomed travelled to Ireland under the patronage of Godfrey Evan Baker, Fisher writes. He had met this wealthy Irishman in India, where Baker worked for the British East India Company.

Baker’s social standing opened doors for Mahomed, who married into an upper-class Irish Protestant family.

At a time when it was illegal for Irish Catholics and Irish Protestants to marry, a relationship between a white Irish woman and an Indian man was so scandalous that they had to elope in 1876.

Soon, however, this couple found a place in Cork high society, partly due to Mahomed’s burgeoning reputation as a writer.

Back in India, Mahomed had been a trainee surgeon. But it was writing that stoked his passions. In 1794, he earned acclaim across Europe and back home for his debut book, The Travels of Dean Mahomed, which highlighted his adventures across India.

After more than 20 years in Cork, where he had become wealthy and well known, Mahomed moved his family to London in search of fresh opportunities.

They took up residence in upmarket Portman Square. Many visitors to London now wander through this area, which is bordered by tourist magnets such as Hyde Park, Oxford Street and Madame Tussauds.

It was there, on George Street, that I found the plaque bearing Mahomed’s name. That marks the former location of the Hindoonstane Coffee House, London’s first Indian restaurant, opened by Mahomed in 1810. Decorated by Indian artworks and bamboo furniture, the Hindoostane aimed to recreate not only the food but also the atmosphere of restaurants in northern India.

It earned generous reviews, particularly for its robust curries. Yet merely four years later Mahomed closed its doors and declared bankruptcy. London was not quite ready to adopt Indian food – it would take until the mid-1900s before this cuisine went mainstream.

A painting of Sake Dean Mahomed's Brighton bath house. Photo: Bright Museum
A painting of Sake Dean Mahomed's Brighton bath house. Photo: Bright Museum

Mahomed wasn’t defeated, though. In 1814 he moved to Brighton, in England’s deep south, and charted a course back to success. Not by writing or restaurants, but instead through a new scene that was gaining popularity among wealthy Brits – indoor bathing.

Ocean swimming was not popular with Britain’s upper classes due to the bracing water temperatures. So Mahomed opened a facility that funnelled seawater into an indoor pool, where it was heated to create a luxurious bathing environment. These days, Brighton is a very popular seaside resort and tourists constantly pass the site of Mahomed’s bath house, 100 metres from Brighton Palace Pier, famed for its theme rides and entertainment arcades.

Back when Mahomed arrived in Brighton it was just becoming a tourism destination. Many wealthy visitors were interested in new age health and beauty treatments. Mahomed cashed in. At his bath house he offered treatments never before seen in Britain. Most of them originated from India, including what became his signature service – shampooing with Indian oils.

So popular was this form of aromatherapy massage that Mahomed soon earned the curious title of “shampooing surgeon” to British kings William IV and George IV.

Tourists to this pretty resort can learn more about Mahomed at Brighton Museum.

It was in this city, at the age of 91, that an end came to the phenomenal life of Mahomed. He left behind a trail from Northern India through Cork, London and England’s southern seaside that tourists can still follow.

A young Muslim man who headed for the horizon and, through his vibrant writing and entrepreneurial nous, blazed a path for others to follow.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Tailors and retailers miss out on back-to-school rush

Tailors and retailers across the city said it was an ominous start to what is usually a busy season for sales.
With many parents opting to continue home learning for their children, the usual rush to buy school uniforms was muted this year.
“So far we have taken about 70 to 80 orders for items like shirts and trousers,” said Vikram Attrai, manager at Stallion Bespoke Tailors in Dubai.
“Last year in the same period we had about 200 orders and lots of demand.
“We custom fit uniform pieces and use materials such as cotton, wool and cashmere.
“Depending on size, a white shirt with logo is priced at about Dh100 to Dh150 and shorts, trousers, skirts and dresses cost between Dh150 to Dh250 a piece.”

A spokesman for Threads, a uniform shop based in Times Square Centre Dubai, said customer footfall had slowed down dramatically over the past few months.

“Now parents have the option to keep children doing online learning they don’t need uniforms so it has quietened down.”

Company%20Profile
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French business

France has organised a delegation of leading businesses to travel to Syria. The group was led by French shipping giant CMA CGM, which struck a 30-year contract in May with the Syrian government to develop and run Latakia port. Also present were water and waste management company Suez, defence multinational Thales, and Ellipse Group, which is currently looking into rehabilitating Syrian hospitals.

The past Palme d'Or winners

2018 Shoplifters, Hirokazu Kore-eda

2017 The Square, Ruben Ostlund

2016 I, Daniel Blake, Ken Loach

2015 DheepanJacques Audiard

2014 Winter Sleep (Kış Uykusu), Nuri Bilge Ceylan

2013 Blue is the Warmest Colour (La Vie d'Adèle: Chapitres 1 et 2), Abdellatif Kechiche, Adele Exarchopoulos and Lea Seydoux

2012 Amour, Michael Haneke

2011 The Tree of LifeTerrence Malick

2010 Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives (Lung Bunmi Raluek Chat), Apichatpong Weerasethakul

2009 The White Ribbon (Eine deutsche Kindergeschichte), Michael Haneke

2008 The Class (Entre les murs), Laurent Cantet

Muslim Council of Elders condemns terrorism on religious sites

The Muslim Council of Elders has strongly condemned the criminal attacks on religious sites in Britain.

It firmly rejected “acts of terrorism, which constitute a flagrant violation of the sanctity of houses of worship”.

“Attacking places of worship is a form of terrorism and extremism that threatens peace and stability within societies,” it said.

The council also warned against the rise of hate speech, racism, extremism and Islamophobia. It urged the international community to join efforts to promote tolerance and peaceful coexistence.

The National's picks

4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young

DIVINE%20INTERVENTOIN
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What are the influencer academy modules?
  1. Mastery of audio-visual content creation. 
  2. Cinematography, shots and movement.
  3. All aspects of post-production.
  4. Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
  5. Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
  6. Tourism industry knowledge.
  7. Professional ethics.
The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

Coming soon

Torno Subito by Massimo Bottura

When the W Dubai – The Palm hotel opens at the end of this year, one of the highlights will be Massimo Bottura’s new restaurant, Torno Subito, which promises “to take guests on a journey back to 1960s Italy”. It is the three Michelinstarred chef’s first venture in Dubai and should be every bit as ambitious as you would expect from the man whose restaurant in Italy, Osteria Francescana, was crowned number one in this year’s list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Akira Back Dubai

Another exciting opening at the W Dubai – The Palm hotel is South Korean chef Akira Back’s new restaurant, which will continue to showcase some of the finest Asian food in the world. Back, whose Seoul restaurant, Dosa, won a Michelin star last year, describes his menu as,  “an innovative Japanese cuisine prepared with a Korean accent”.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

The highly experimental chef, whose dishes are as much about spectacle as taste, opens his first restaurant in Dubai next year. Housed at The Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal will feature contemporary twists on recipes that date back to the 1300s, including goats’ milk cheesecake. Always remember with a Blumenthal dish: nothing is quite as it seems. 

Updated: February 08, 2022, 12:35 PM`