In July, Tbilisi’s old town is full of life. Buskers bring joy to passers-by; the long summer days mean locals meander the streets late into the evening; and families and friends gather for picnics in the city’s green spaces, or sit and chat on bench-lined pavements.
But look a little closer and it is impossible to ignore the havoc the pandemic has wrought on Georgia's tourism industry. From ice cream stands and hotels to some of the city’s best restaurants, countless businesses display “for sale” signs.
In Mtskheta, Georgia's ancient capital, half an hour from its current one, stall after stall is closed, and a smattering of people wander the cobbled streets. It's a far cry from the days when busloads arrived each hour.
'Tourism is critical'
My guide, Zviad Bechvaia from Travelist Georgia, resumed work in April and has since hosted about 15 to 20 private tours. In 2020, he had only three. “People here have been dying for tourists to come back,” he tells me. “Tourism is critical for the economy.”
Most tourists come from neighbouring countries with land access, but with so much to offer, it's an appealing destination that’s only a three-hour flight from the UAE. Flydubai launched direct flights to Tbilisi from Dubai 10 years ago and the route has become one of its most popular, with the airline now offering three flights a day.
Despite the pandemic, flydubai carried nearly 60,000 passengers between the destinations over 2020 and 2021. Air Arabia launched a direct route from Sharjah in 2014 and also from Abu Dhabi this June.
Good food, good company, good weather
There are still safety precautions in place in Tbilisi, with temperature checks and mandatory mask-wearing in indoor spaces, but outside, people are free. Cafes around the old city are abuzz with chatter, with a sense among both tourists and locals that the simple things in life are now what matter: good food, good company and good weather.
This is not the case across town. Staff at the once thriving David Aghmashenebeli Avenue stand outside trying to entice customers in, with cafes and restaurants crying out for business and artists around the Dry Bridge market barely able to sell a piece.
“We’ve been through tougher,” Bechvaia says. “It’s been a very hard year but the Georgian people have a strong spirit. We know this will pass eventually, we just don’t know when.”
Tbilisi consists of an intriguing mix of historical and cutting-edge modern architecture, from the glass-and-steel Bridge of Peace to the austere and dilapidated tower blocks that hark back to the Soviet era. From the Mongol to the Soviet, numerous empires have left their mark on the Georgian capital, which sits on the meandering Mtkvari River.
Organic by default
This 'Tuscany of the East', which shares the same latitude as Rome and Barcelona, is a gastronome’s paradise. Everything is fresh, local and natural, every salad bursting with flavour and each cheese a rival to anything found in Europe. Out of economic necessity, farmers still use old-fashioned agricultural techniques, meaning small-scale production by hand, so everything is organic in its truest sense.
Eating out is cheap and it’s rare to see anything other than Georgian restaurants, which adds a refreshing touch of authenticity. The city is untainted by the flood of fast food and coffee chains overtaking other parts of the world.
Its geographical location and history as part of the Silk Road explain the fabulous fusion of its cuisine, with influences such as Chinese-inspired dumplings in the form of khinkali, a remnant from the days of the Mongol Empire, along with many dishes that are familiar from Mediterranean, Levantine and Turkish cuisine.
In Meidan Bazaar, in the heart of the old town, Machakhela restaurant is as popular with locals as it is with tourists. Even when I visit at 10pm, it is bursting at the seams, with a feast for two costing little more than $13 to $16.
Value for money
Head out of town and value for money goes even further. On our way to the mountain region of Kazbegi, we stop with our guide at the family-run Georgian restaurant Tsanareti, which is full of locals, and where the three of us gorge on local treats for about $20.
Hiring a guide means finding such hidden gems is much easier and for $60-$100 per day per person, including driving, food and sights, it's a great investment. Petrol costs about three times more than in the UAE, and car hire costs $70-$100 per day, but roads are not easy to navigate and internet connection is patchy, so having someone to take care of that is a worthy luxury.
Tbilisi is safe and walkable. The dramatic ascent to the city’s highest point, where the Mother of Georgia, or Kartlis Deda, monument stands, provides a spectacular view of the city, which is nestled between some of the world’s most beautiful mountain landscapes.
Even when it’s relatively busy, there is a sense of peacefulness in Tbilisi, with birdsong and the rush of the river and the city’s little waterfalls often audible when walking its streets.
Hotels are a wonderful mix of grand and ultra-modern, which is reflective of the city’s wider renaissance. The elegant historical Tbilisi Marriott Hotel, built in the early 20th century on Rustaveli Boulevard with a Renaissance and Baroque-inspired design, is a great example of the city’s search for a balance between old and new.
This contrasts the must-visit, vintage-style Stamba and Rooms hotels, which were repurposed from a huge red-brick Soviet-era publishing house in the Vera neighbourhood and is a favourite hangout for the city’s trendy young urbanites.
A mountain escape
Rooms Kazbegi has arguably been one of the biggest winners of the pandemic. The former Soviet-era sanatorium has been converted into a spectacular mountain retreat two and a half hours from Tbilisi. With the vibe of an all-day party, it feels like a decadent student dorm for grown-ups, pumping out upbeat tunes from breakfast until late. If not for the face masks, it would be easy to forget there is a pandemic here.
The property boasts the best views across Kazbegi’s mountains and during the height of lockdown, was somewhat immune to the restrictions imposed on cities, becoming an escape route for wealthy Georgians.
Today, it remains the busiest property in the area, with its 157 rooms in demand on weekdays and weekends while many guest houses in the famous mountain region are struggling to survive.
Georgia is a picture book of magical settings, from mountaintop monasteries and fairy-tale forts to breathtaking nature at every turn. Its roads wind through valleys, mountains and verdant vineyards, serving up a dramatic display of colour. It feels special to be here during this rare time of quiet. There are no queues and no chaos at the major sights, and it couldn’t feel farther from the hustle and bustle of the sun-scorched UAE.
Covid essentials
Travellers do not have to be vaccinated to enter Georgia but do need to show a negative PCR test on arrival. Unvaccinated travellers also need to do a test on day three of their stay in the country. It is easy to get tests at local clinics or at your hotel, but the prices will vary. A day-three test at the Tbilisi Marriott, for example, costs $35, and the test to return to Dubai when staying at the Sheraton costs $23. However, both services were convenient, quick and safe, arranged by the hotels with results back within 24 to 36 hours.
Getting there
The flight from Dubai to Tbilisi with flydubai takes three hours. Economy flights cost about Dh2,000, but the airline also offers a business-class bidding option, which includes lounge access. There are also extra leg room seats available on the economy flight for an additional fee. Air Arabia flies to Tbilisi direct from Sharjah and Abu Dhabi.
Dust and sand storms compared
Sand storm
- Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
- Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
- Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
- Travel distance: Limited
- Source: Open desert areas with strong winds
Dust storm
- Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
- Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
- Duration: Can linger for days
- Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
- Source: Can be carried from distant regions
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Company%20Profile
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GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
The specs
Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
Power: 620hp from 5,750-7,500rpm
Torque: 760Nm from 3,000-5,750rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed dual-clutch auto
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh1.05 million ($286,000)
MOTHER%20OF%20STRANGERS
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More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
How Alia's experiment will help humans get to Mars
Alia’s winning experiment examined how genes might change under the stresses caused by being in space, such as cosmic radiation and microgravity.
Her samples were placed in a machine on board the International Space Station. called a miniPCR thermal cycler, which can copy DNA multiple times.
After the samples were examined on return to Earth, scientists were able to successfully detect changes caused by being in space in the way DNA transmits instructions through proteins and other molecules in living organisms.
Although Alia’s samples were taken from nematode worms, the results have much bigger long term applications, especially for human space flight and long term missions, such as to Mars.
It also means that the first DNA experiments using human genomes can now be carried out on the ISS.
Global Fungi Facts
• Scientists estimate there could be as many as 3 million fungal species globally
• Only about 160,000 have been officially described leaving around 90% undiscovered
• Fungi account for roughly 90% of Earth's unknown biodiversity
• Forest fungi help tackle climate change, absorbing up to 36% of global fossil fuel emissions annually and storing around 5 billion tonnes of carbon in the planet's topsoil
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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MORE ON TURKEY'S SYRIA OFFENCE
The specs
Engine: 5.0-litre V8
Power: 480hp at 7,250rpm
Torque: 566Nm at 4,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: L/100km
Price: Dh306,495
On sale: now
KEY HIGHLIGHTS
Healthcare spending to double to $2.2 trillion rupees
Launched a 641billion-rupee federal health scheme
Allotted 200 billion rupees for the recapitalisation of state-run banks
Around 1.75 trillion rupees allotted for privatisation and stake sales in state-owned assets
How to apply for a drone permit
- Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
- Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
- Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
- Submit their request
What are the regulations?
- Fly it within visual line of sight
- Never over populated areas
- Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
- Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
- Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
- Should have a live feed of the drone flight
- Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
Kanguva
Director: Siva
Stars: Suriya, Bobby Deol, Disha Patani, Yogi Babu, Redin Kingsley
EMILY%20IN%20PARIS%3A%20SEASON%203
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Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
A State of Passion
Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi
Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah
Rating: 4/5
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages.
The biog
Name: Capt Shadia Khasif
Position: Head of the Criminal Registration Department at Hatta police
Family: Five sons and three daughters
The first female investigator in Hatta.
Role Model: Father
She believes that there is a solution to every problem
Destroyer
Director: Karyn Kusama
Cast: Nicole Kidman, Toby Kebbell, Sebastian Stan
Rating: 3/5
UAE release: January 31
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
Guide to intelligent investing
Investing success often hinges on discipline and perspective. As markets fluctuate, remember these guiding principles:
- Stay invested: Time in the market, not timing the market, is critical to long-term gains.
- Rational thinking: Breathe and avoid emotional decision-making; let logic and planning guide your actions.
- Strategic patience: Understand why you’re investing and allow time for your strategies to unfold.
Scorline
Iraq 1-0 UAE
Iraq Hussein 28’
Biog
Mr Kandhari is legally authorised to conduct marriages in the gurdwara
He has officiated weddings of Sikhs and people of different faiths from Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Russia, the US and Canada
Father of two sons, grandfather of six
Plays golf once a week
Enjoys trying new holiday destinations with his wife and family
Walks for an hour every morning
Completed a Bachelor of Commerce degree in Loyola College, Chennai, India
2019 is a milestone because he completes 50 years in business
PREMIER LEAGUE TABLE
1 Man City 26 20 3 3 63 17 63
2 Liverpool 25 17 6 2 64 20 57
3 Chelsea 25 14 8 3 49 18 50
4 Man Utd 26 13 7 6 44 34 46
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5 West Ham 26 12 6 8 45 34 42
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6 Arsenal 23 13 3 7 36 26 42
7 Wolves 24 12 4 8 23 18 40
8 Tottenham 23 12 4 8 31 31 39
Read more about the coronavirus
PROFILE OF HALAN
Started: November 2017
Founders: Mounir Nakhla, Ahmed Mohsen and Mohamed Aboulnaga
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: transport and logistics
Size: 150 employees
Investment: approximately $8 million
Investors include: Singapore’s Battery Road Digital Holdings, Egypt’s Algebra Ventures, Uber co-founder and former CTO Oscar Salazar
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre twin-turbo flat-six
Power: 480hp at 6,500rpm
Torque: 570Nm from 2,300-5,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch auto
Fuel consumption: 10.4L/100km
Price: from Dh547,600
On sale: now
World record transfers
1. Kylian Mbappe - to Real Madrid in 2017/18 - €180 million (Dh770.4m - if a deal goes through)
2. Paul Pogba - to Manchester United in 2016/17 - €105m
3. Gareth Bale - to Real Madrid in 2013/14 - €101m
4. Cristiano Ronaldo - to Real Madrid in 2009/10 - €94m
5. Gonzalo Higuain - to Juventus in 2016/17 - €90m
6. Neymar - to Barcelona in 2013/14 - €88.2m
7. Romelu Lukaku - to Manchester United in 2017/18 - €84.7m
8. Luis Suarez - to Barcelona in 2014/15 - €81.72m
9. Angel di Maria - to Manchester United in 2014/15 - €75m
10. James Rodriguez - to Real Madrid in 2014/15 - €75m
The five pillars of Islam
Uefa Champions League last 16 draw
Juventus v Tottenham Hotspur
Basel v Manchester City
Sevilla v Manchester United
Porto v Liverpool
Real Madrid v Paris Saint-Germain
Shakhtar Donetsk v Roma
Chelsea v Barcelona
Bayern Munich v Besiktas
