Hanoi in 48 hours: What to see, do and eat in the Vietnamese capital

Vietnam is one of the most visited countries in South East Asia, and it's easy to see why. From pristine beaches, rice fields and traditional crafts, to friendly locals, great food and buzzing nightlife, it seems to have it all.

Capital city Hanoi's old-world ethos melds with its vibrant street life – think zippy scooters, open-air markets and a strong cafe culture.

This month, Etihad Airways launched direct flights to Noi Bai International Airport, which is 35km from downtown Hanoi, with six flights per week on the Boeing 787 Dreamliner.

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Here is a tried-and-tested itinerary if you have 48 hours to spend in the charmingly chaotic capital.

Day 1

8am: Breakfast at Lotte Hotel

Rising 65 stories above the skyline inside the Lotte Centre building, Lotte Hotel Hanoi is a five-star property in the city centre. The 235 standard rooms and 83 suites in Vietnam’s tallest hotel offer panoramic views of Hanoi.

Even if you're not a guest, it's still worth getting breakfast at the hotel for the view alone. Head to Grill63 on level 63, and enjoy a buffet breakfast priced at $30 for visitors.

9.30am: Visit the Temple of Literature

Set amid landscaped grounds near the centre of Hanoi and a 12-minute drive from the hotel, the Temple of Literature honours Vietnam’s scholars and offers a chance to see traditional architecture.

Founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, the complex is dedicated to the philosopher Confucius and was the site of Vietnam’s first university, Quoc Tu Giam. The temple is popular with students, who visit here to pray for good grades.

It is best to get a tour guide to show you around the complex and offer insights into the temple’s historical significance. Carry local currency to buy souvenirs as shops within the temple complex don't accept credit cards.

Entry to the temple is 30,000 Vietnamese dong ($1); opening hours are from 8am to 5pm

10.45am: Head to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum

Ho Chi Minh, who is considered the father of Vietnam and served as president of North Vietnam for 25 years, is preserved in state in a mausoleum – a seven-minute drive or 16-minute walk from the Temple of Literature.

Minh's embalmed body is placed in a glass coffin within the mausoleum, watched over by honour guards who change every hour.

There are long queues to enter the complex and it’s usually crowded with groups of Vietnamese who come to pay their respects to “Uncle Ho”. It is recommended to dress modestly, covering the shoulders and knees. Photography is forbidden inside the mausoleum.

Explore Ba Dinh Square, the area surrounding Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, which also houses Ho Chi Minh Museum, the Presidential Palace and the One Pillar Pagoda.

Entry to the complex is $1; opening hours vary depending on day and season

Noon: Explore Tran Quoc Pagoda

A nine-minute drive or 22-minute walk away lies one of the oldest pagodas in Vietnam, which was erected more than 1,500 years ago. Tran Quoc Pagoda is on a small islet of West Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Hanoi.

Upon entering the pagoda, you will be greeted by a majestic red-brown tower known as the 11-storey Stupa or Bao Thap. Each floor has six arched windows, and each window is studded with a gemstone statue of Amitabha Buddha.

Tourists can also see a Bodhi tree, which was donated to the temple in 1959 by former president of India Rajendra Prasad.

Free entry; opening hours are from 8am to 4pm

12.30pm: Check out Train Street

Visiting Train Street, which is a 13-minute drive from the pagoda, has long been on my bucket list and I was joined by tourists from all over the world for a close encounter with passing trains. For the uninitiated, this narrow alley has train tracks running through the middle.

Flanked by shops and cafes, the alley makes for a perfect photo-op. Settle into a cafe with a cup of creamy egg coffee – made with Vietnamese coffee, egg yolk, sugar and condensed milk – and wait for a train to pass by for a unique front-row viewing experience.

Ask the barista or waiter for the schedule so you can be at the right place at the right time; about 10 trains pass through a day. Although the street is free to enter, you need to order something from a cafe to reserve a spot.

1.30pm: Get lunch at Ngon Garden

This Michelin-recommended restaurant on the banks of Thien Quang Lake is a two-minute drive away from Train Street. Ngon Garden serves dishes from other regions of Vietnam, not just Hanoi, and offers private rooms for larger parties.

My group opted for a Vietnamese set menu ($20), which included a refreshing Ngon Garden salad, Hue's steamed rice cakes served in small cups, deep-fried crispy shrimp pancake, stir-fried pumpkin flowers with garlic, steamed chicken with shredded lemon leaves, beef steak with pan-fried egg and French fries, soya custard and Vietnamese tea and coffee.

Open daily from 6am to 10pm

3pm: Visit Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple

A nine-minute car ride away is Hoan Kiem Lake. Legend has it that the gods sent King Le Loi a magical sword in the mid-15th century, which he used to drive the Chinese out of Vietnam. After the war, a giant golden turtle grabbed the sword and disappeared into the depths of a lake to restore it to its divine owners, inspiring the name Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Restored Sword). The main attraction is the beautiful Turtle Tower, standing on a small island in the middle.

Walk over to Ngoc Son Temple, which sits on another island connected by the red Huc Bridge. The temple is dedicated to general Tran Hung Dao, a national hero who fought off Mongolian invaders. It also displays the preserved bodies of two big turtles that once lived in Hoan Kiem Lake.

Entry to Ngoc Son Temple is $1; opening hours are from 7am to 7pm on weekdays and until 10pm on weekends

4.30pm: Wander through Old Quarter

No trip to Hanoi is complete without walking through the alleys of Old Quarter, a four-minute cab ride from Hoan Kiem Lake. It is a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with colonial-era shops, family-run eateries and tiny cafes serving egg coffee.

Despite the hustle, Old Quarter oozes a sense of calm and character – temples are ensconced between modern stores, French architecture is displayed beside pagodas, vendors haul fruit and vegetables on traditional yokes and locals chat over bowls of pho.

6pm: Book in for a beauty treatment

In the late afternoon, I snapped up the opportunity to take a 20-minute cab ride Woo Korea Beauty & Spa clinic, for a relaxing 90-minute Korean hair spa treatment priced at $4.

If you have the time and inclination to explore Hanoi's vibrant nightlife, dine outdoors near West Lake, check out the weekend night markets studded with street food stalls and the lively pubs at Ta Hien Street, or sign up for a night tour of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long or Hoa Lo Prison.

Day 2

9.30am: Visit Chuong crafts village

After breakfast, I set off to visit a traditional craft village, which is a 75- minute drive from Hanoi and famous for making Vietnamese conical hats. These are crafted from palm leaves, which are dried to turn them ivory white, while the frames are constructed from thin bamboo rings.

The creation process demands patience and skill. Artisans hand-sew the leaves on to the bamboo frame, a process that takes up to four hours. While traditionally plain, hats can be customised with artwork featuring flowers and birds.

Entry to the village is free; classes and tours run by local families cost $1.5 per person

1pm: Photo-op at Quang Phu Cau village

This village, about 40 minutes from Chuong by road, is known for colourful incense sticks that are laid out to dry in large bundles. The ambience makes for great photo-ops and visiting here also offers a chance to learn about the production process of incense sticks.

Entry to the village is free; a visit to the facilities of local families costs $1.5 per person

4pm: Late lunch at Vi Hanoi

Back in Hanoi, I settled for lunch near the Old Quarter. The set menu at Vi Hanoi costs $15, and dishes include pan-seared sea bass, beef luk lak with bell pepper and onion, and banana stuffed in sticky rice with coconut. The vegetarians in my group enjoyed fresh rolls with tofu, and braised eggplant with tofu and mushroom.

6pm: Browse the shops at Lotte Department Store

It's worth taking some time to visit the department store on the lower floors of Lotte Hotel for some retail therapy. It has luxury and high street brands as well as entertainment outlets for families.

Bonus time

If you more hours or days in Hanoi, sign up for an overnight cruise exploring limestone islands in Ha Long Bay or stay over in Ninh Binh, which has rivers winding through rice fields. Both are about two hours from Hanoi.