A gold-plated Mercedes G-wagon and parade of queueing Gulf residents make for a familiar welcome at the entrance of the venerable Connaught Hotel near Berkeley Square. Once inside, the guest is left in no doubt of the pride the venue takes in its dining and hospitality.
But first, away from the bustle of the front desk, it's time to talk about the suites that present a whole new overnight experience.
The National checks in to see what’s on offer.
The welcome
A pastel-coloured umbrella is proffered to cover the last drops of London rain. The journey to the room is accompanied by a suite butler. In this case, the exceedingly polite Albert. One of the treats already laid out is complimentary raspberry tartelette from the patissier Nicolas Rouzaud, a highly fashionable master of fruit-topped pastries.
The neighbourhood
The skyline may be low when I go to the window, but the bustle of London's most rarefied district makes up for the slate-grey gloom.
The ochre-bricked The Connaught is one of London's original grande dame hotels and, should you need some variety, is just a block away from its sister establishment, the art deco Claridge's. Both are owned by Qatar's Maybourne group.
Alongside runs village high street, Mount St, with such attractions as Scott's restaurant, leather-works at Goyard and Purdey, the handmade shotguns.
The former US embassy lies just around the corner and has now joined a handful of other ultra-luxury hotel options gracing the London scene.
The room
A revamp in situ has seen The Connaught modernise its rooms to current tastes. Of the 34 suites, some retain the flavour of the The Connaught's roots. It was known as the Coburg after its opening in 1815 and there is indeed a suite bearing this name. It then took on the title of one of Queen Victoria's sons, the Duke of Connaught.
The sitting room is well-stocked with amenities and a movie collection that is designed for the guest who does not want to leave. The twist is The Connaught Cinematic Collection features stars who have stayed in the same luxurious surroundings.
On to the bedroom with its superlative bed built for comfort, while I'm told all bathrooms have the minimum modern requirement of a Japanese automated toilet.
Guests staying at the suites gain access to the only London outpost of the renowned Asian treatments Aman Spa.
For the regional visitor, there is a treat in the aesthetics of the King’s Lodge and Prince’s Lodge, where the woodwork, framing and inlay have all been installed by artisans from the Turquoise Mountain Foundation.
There is also an outdoor terrace for some fortunate guests. In the design, overseen by Guy Oliver, the signature Eagles Lodge has a nautical design to resemble life on a ship.
Heritage touches are perhaps capped by English handmade shoe producer John Lobb's shoe shine chair. Situation by the wooden staircase so sturdy that Ralph Lauren copied it for his New York boutique, you have to wonder: if the chair could talk, what tales would it tell?
The appointed butler tells me the shoe shine tradition goes back generations and is still popular. Training comes direct from the factory. Though he notes the recent trend towards trainers and shoes that can be washed in a machine. Modern shoes are not really made to last and wear down too much, he tuts.
The service
Across the hotel there is a pride in the efficiency of good service. Bookings in the compact series of eateries are recommended and eagerly taken. The Aman spa and attached swimming pool and exercise suite are attended by a welter of staff ready to facilitate extra treatments.
And the frock-coated doormen represents a front-to-back attentiveness that you might expect but are always glad to have at hand.
The scene
The ground floor and the wraparound plaza is where the action is, particularly in the evening where promenading guests congregate to savour the fruits of a day's labour or leisure. Many of those gathered hail from the Gulf, including as a summer stamping ground for royalty. Instagram feeds are filled in August with scenes from The Connaught.
The food
We eat at Jean-Georges. Other options would have been the three-Michelin-starred Helene Darroze for those who want classical French cuisine; the patisserie, which is opened to the street; and the legendary Connaught Grill, but it was booked out during our stay.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten has lent more than his name to the bow-shaped eatery that bears his name. The waiter tells of the chef's loyalty to his customers and how she would work for him anywhere. She also recalls how he restored a well-loved sea bass dish to the menu when she passed on the dismay of the regulars.
A tasting menu highlights the complementary strengths of caviar and smoked salmon. The crunchy sushi demonstrates the ambitions brought to the Asian fusion approach of Jean-Georges. More conventionally for an establishment like The Connaught, my Cornish lamb main course is delicate and superbly flavoured.
It is the sort of place where tables of two are intimate, while American families visiting the UK can celebrate personal milestones and locals can enjoy an afternoon tea.
The verdict
An experience location that does not disappoint is what the hotel has delivered for more than 200 years. The Connaught wants the guest to feel the warmth and attention that would be on offer in the grandest country home. It lives up to its ducal roots by offering just that level of service.
Yet it has kept up with the times. The pandemic has changed what guests want and the hotel is rising to the challenge of greater demands. An hour spent in its serene swimming pool is time that is irreplaceable.
The bottom line
Rates for a Coburg suite at The Connaught start from £1,440 ($1,990), inclusive of VAT.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the property and reflects the standards during this time. Services may change in future
