Think of a city break in Portugal, and Lisbon will probably spring to mind.
But the country's second-largest city is fast growing in popularity among both holidaymakers and digital nomads. Recent data demonstrated that overnight stays and tourist activities are growing at a higher rate than the rest of the country, including its famed capital.
So, what's the appeal? It could be the winding, hilly street that screams sultry summers in a European city. It's probably the gorgeous views from either side of the Douro River. It's the relatively affordable prices for food and drinks and an atmosphere that lacks the rave culture of Lisbon but boasts a chattering city buzz nonetheless.
Then there are the hotels. Ahead of my plan to sleep in different hostels each night while embarking on the Camino De Santiago along the Portuguese coast, I opt to balance the scales with a long luxury weekend by checking into Relais & Chateaux's The Yeatman.
The welcome
Having spent the previous sunset admiring The Yeatman from the opposite side of the waters with my travel companion, surrounded by buzzing bars, busy streets and beeping cars, there's something serene looking about the south side of the Douro river. Red roofs stacked on the hilly landscape, interspersed with pockets of green, the orange rays colouring the skies.
The following morning, our taxi winds through cobbled streets before turning into the estate-like hotel, surrounded by greenery. We step foot in the lobby, and it's instantly apparent that this is a building with character in every corner. We are greeted by a grand, red-carpet-lined staircase directing our gaze down towards a towering sculpture of the Roman god Bacchus on the floor below.
Light shines in through the glass atrium above, compelling art hangs on the wall, giant vases overflow with violet and fuchsia flowers, and antique-style furnishings grace the floor space that wraps around the central staircase.
Checking in is breezy, but we don't head straight to our room. Too absorbed by the stunning views of the river and beyond from the arch-shaped windows, we head to The Library on the same mezzanine level. Our cappuccinos are decorated with the outlines of the Serra Do Pilar – the nearly 500-year-old monastery that sits on the corner of a neighbouring hilltop.
The room
One of the impressive things about this hotel? Every accommodation has a spectacular view. Each of the 109 rooms overlooks the river and Old Town, as every room comes complete with a terrace or balcony.
Yet while generic in this way, each room comes with individual decorative flair as inspired by a different vineyard across the country.
We check into a superior deluxe panoramic room. Alongside the king bed, the sizeable space has an armchair, desk and chair, luggage rack, and a bookshelf that's more than decorative. It is stocked with travel books and novels set in the country on its shelves. The High Mountains of Portugal by Yann Martel makes for a good poolside companion.
Being a beauty and bath lover, I often rate a hotel room by its bathroom facilities. The Yeatman doesn't disappoint. Wooden shutters bridge the washroom and the bedroom space, meaning they can be flung open mid-soak to take in the views of the river and beyond. A colourful tiled shower holds rosemary and white tea scented Natura Bisse products, a cult favourite Spanish beauty brand.
The spa
And there was more from the family-owned beauty brand to be found downstairs in the hotel spa's retail area, alongside other brands such as Vinoble Cosmetics and Ila.
Beyond the reception, the 2,000-square-metre spa space is home to a panoramic indoor pool and gym space. Then there's the sauna and heated pool, the cleansing salt room, infrared sauna, rainforest shower and heated stone beds. Access is limited to those with appointments or bookings, so the experience remains tranquil as the minutes turn to hours.
Specialising in grape-infused treatments, I opt for a Yeatman's Signature Massage (150 euros for 50 minutes), and not only is my massage therapist, Debra, dedicated to de-knotting my back, she's bubbly and warm too. The treatment ends with a dual reflexology-exfoliation service as I'm invited to roll the soles of my feet over dried grapeseed – ideal ahead of a long walk.
Spacious, serene and consciously designed, this is a spa well worth visiting in Porto, whether staying at The Yeatman or not.
The food
The same can easily be said for the fare on offer. The star of the show, hands down, is the 17-course gastronomic experience (starting price 260 euros, or Dh1,117) at the hotel's twice Michelin-starred namesake restaurant.
It begins in The Library area, where a series of appetisers are served. In no hurry, we're escorted to the chef's table for the next course. We watch our starters carefully being prepared before eating them right in the heart of the busy kitchen. Finally, we take our seats in the centre of the dining room to pore over the culinary excellence of each small dish while sipping on a beverage pairing with every course.
The menu is an imaginative take on traditional Portuguese cuisine and aims to focus on the country's fresh produce.
While my friend tucks into the harvest menu, I'm impressed by the vegan courses carefully crafted, such as courgette churros and daikon radish dressed with kimchi, dill and onion, to leek and saffron rice. It's hard to describe it as anything less than art.
Breakfast is served in The Orangerie and vegan delights include grilled tofu served with mushroom and asparagus, and I even nab a plant-based pastel de nata.
The hotel also has Dick's Bar and Restaurant, for light bistro bites, from sandwiches to fish and chips.
The scene
Making time to explore is a must, as this hotel simultaneously serves as an exhibition or sorts.
Despite its deceptive youth – it was built in 2010 – it makes a conscious effort to tell the history of Northern Portugal.
Art replicas line the halls, framed football shirts hang from the walls, and traditional tiles are mounted for display. One spiral staircase that spans several floors is lined with clippings and photos telling a chronological history of Porto, ending with a clipping marking the hotel's opening.
For a slice of history a bit closer to home, be sure to check out the display shelf showcasing liquid vessels near Dick's Bar, which includes an Islamic moulded glass oil lamp from the tenth century.
The neighbourhood
Most of Porto's tick-list tourist sites reside on the opposite side of the river, such as walking the clock tower of Porto's historic cathedral and seeing the tile-art in Sao Bento, but this side has plenty to offer, too.
It's quieter, but there are drink cellars to tour, and bars and restaurants to pop into along the Quays. The monastery is also open to tourists wanting to admire its circular architecture. And nearby is a scenic cable car trip across the river.
The bottom line
Prices start at 305 euros (Dh1,311) per night, but vary based on accommodation and season. Check-in is from 3pm; checkout is at noon.
This review was conducted at the invitation of Relais & Chateaux and reflects the standards during this time. Services may change in future
