How Thailand has reinvented itself in 20 years, as popularity surges among tourists

I have travelled to Thailand several times since the early noughties – with family as a teenager in 2004-05, solo in my mid-20s and again with a partner a couple of years ago. Returning in May, I noticed how much the country has evolved.

Its newfound sense of confidence almost mirrors the changes in my own life. And while the familiar sights are still there, the Southeast Asian country is presenting itself in fascinating new ways – and the world is watching. It is little surprise that Bangkok was the most visited city in 2024, according to the World Tourism Forum Institute, a reflection of the country’s surging global appeal.

While the capital was once synonymous with temples, street food and chaotic charm, today it is also a hub for contemporary art, luxury shopping and an increasingly refined dining scene.

On my first trip to Bangkok, I remember visiting the Wat Pho temple complex, home to the city’s famous giant reclining Buddha. My sisters and I posed for a photo alongside the gold-plated statue, making for a memorable keepsake. Years later, I returned with my partner, drawn to the city’s lively night markets where we discovered unconventional street food and practised our bargaining skills.

Although the experiences were vastly different, both offered a glimpse into Bangkok’s vibrant personality. This is a city that is constantly shifting yet always compelling.

Multilevel malls such as IconSiam and Siam Paragon now house everything from global luxury brands to Thai designer labels, while sky-high rooftop lounges offer a more luxurious feel. Restaurants such as R-Haan, Baan Tepa and Suhring, all with two Michelin stars, have helped solidify Bangkok's place on the global culinary map.

One Bangkok is another example of this modern shift. I recently stayed at The Ritz-Carlton, Bangkok, one of the most impressive properties in this district. Spread across several city blocks, the mixed-use development has sleek skyscrapers, five-star hotels, restaurants, shops and landscaped green spaces. Throughout the area, a growing public art collection features works by both renowned Thai and international artists.

Sculptures, digital installations, murals and even functional pieces like benches are built into the surroundings, encouraging people to pause, peruse and engage. It’s a sign of how the capital is embracing the arts. The Dib Bangkok museum, which claims to be “Thailand's first museum dedicated to international contemporary art,” is scheduled to open in December, proving the city’s art scene shows no signs of slowing down.

Those seeking a slower pace while on holiday, meanwhile, can look to Thailand’s second-largest island Koh Samui, which is an hour’s flight from Bangkok. Its tranquil beaches, lush hills and laid-back vibe offer a striking contrast to the capital’s high energy.

Recently, the island drew international attention as the filming location for the third season of the HBO show The White Lotus, and interest has continued to surge. Despite the buzz, Koh Samui also has quieter pockets brimming with charm.

I stayed at the five-star property Vana Belle, a Luxury Collection Resort, Koh Samui, which is tucked away along the serene Chaweng Noi Beach. Live music performances, traditional fire shows and a private beach offer a strong sense of place with little need to leave the property.

For those looking to explore beyond the resort, Central Samui in Chaweng is a short drive away. As the island’s main shopping mall, it offers an air-conditioned break from the heat, plus international brands, cute cafes and souvenir shops. It’s a different vibe from the bustling street markets of Bangkok, but it reflects Koh Samui’s growing accessibility. For visitors craving a bit of city comfort without losing the island vibe, it strikes a good balance.

Meanwhile, the nearby Bophut area comes alive in the evenings. While its traditional fishing village charm has largely faded in the face of more tourist-centric development, it still offers glimpses of Samui’s heritage, while also showing the flipside of overtourism. It might be worth engaging the services of a local tour guide to get a more authentic feel for the area's history and heritage.

Given the country’s ever-changing landscape, Thailand continues to offer something new with each visit. It grows and shifts, shaped by tourism demand, modernisation and its own creative momentum. No matter how many times I return, the experience feels familiar yet somehow also new.