Living with a Kazakh eagle hunter: My journey into the heart of nomadic life in western Mongolia

In the remote valleys of western Mongolia, near the snow-capped Altai mountains, I meet Khaiyr Galym, a traditional Kazakh eagle hunter.

Despite the language barrier, I am given a holistic insight into the nomadic life, influenced by nature and rhythm of the seasons, and warmly welcomed into his home that he shares with his family.

When I first meet Khaiyr, he is sitting on a low stool in his winter home, his cowboy outfit is complete with boots and wide-brimmed hat. He doesn’t understand or speak a word of English, but smiles often, making the skin on his weather-beaten cheeks crack with the effort. His wife Shynat serves us endless cups of weak milky tea, along with aaruul, a salty hard cheese.

With me is Shokhan, an English-speaking guide, who translates and helps make sense of this new, fascinating world. It’s a land where the people are few and far between, and vastly outnumbered by the grazing horses, sheep and yaks. Our driver has scaled mountain passes and forded rivers, based, it seems, on pure instinct, before pulling up at Khaiyr’s isolated home in a low valley.

It is still early in Mongolia’s short summer season, and the world outside this little two-roomed house is just beginning to turn green, with the distant hills still covered in splashes of white. On this trip to Mongolia, I have chosen to travel west towards the imposing and remote Altai mountains, located along the border with Russia, Kazakhstan and China. And here I am, in a yurt in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by strangers who have welcomed me into their homes.

Families of Mongolian eagle hunters live nomadically in yurts, round tents also known as ger. Photo: Charukesi Ramadurai

Staying in a yurt – a round tent also known as ger in some parts of central Asia, which serves as the summer home of nomadic shepherd families – is part of the attraction. But the main draw is a chance to spend time with the patriarch Khaiyr, who practises the traditional Kazakh art of berkutchi, hunting with golden eagles. And while eagle hunting is a winter sport, this is a rare opportunity to get a close glimpse into this rapidly vanishing tradition.

Although berkutchi dates back several centuries and spans across the central Asian steppes, it has waned in popularity in recent times, with only about 250 eagle hunters to be found in Mongolia. Khaiyr’s forefathers migrated to Mongolia in the mid 1800s, and like many other ethnic Kazakhs, he continue to speak in their native language, and follow other Kazakh customs and rituals. Berkutchi, somewhat similar to falconry in the Middle East, is a treasured sport, one in which the eagle is trained to hunt for small prey such as red fox and marmots, with the hunters using the skin as fur to line their hats and coats.

“It is simply a way of staying in touch with my roots,” Khaiyr says, adding that he hopes his kids will take it forward after him.

Khaiyr Galym's 10-year-old son, Seruen. Photo: Charukesi Ramadurai

The couple live with their two younger children, the older two having moved to big cities for higher education. Seruen, aged 10, is an expert horseman – he learnt to ride even before he could walk, says the proud father – and teen daughter Arujon, who captivates me with her quick smile and confident movements. Morning and evening, I see her at her mother’s side, milking the sheep, rounding up the horses, feeding the yaks and riding her father’s motorbike to fetch and carry heavy loads. She gives a shy nod when I ask if she would like to take over from her father. I am thrilled, the world could certainly use another rare eagle huntress.

Although I am completely cut off from the outside world, with no mobile phone or internet access, the days fall into an easy and pleasing rhythm. In the mornings, after a hearty breakfast, I ride out into the hills along with Khaiyr, Seruen and Shokhan. Their eagle, Tas Tulek, has gained weight in the past few weeks and rides comfortably on Khaiyr’s shoulders. The father and son are eager to show off their tricks, and soon rend the air with piercing calls that instruct the eagle to fly, hunt or return to base.

Khaiyr Galym and his family with their livestock. Photo: Charukesi Ramadurai

The bond between a burkitshi and his bird is deep and abiding, starting from when the bird is only a couple of months old. When I catch Khaiyr caressing Tas Tulek’s head during a quiet moment, he declares, “This eagle is like my child, so I have to love her and pet her, and keep her happy".

In the evenings, I walk down from the yurt towards the Sagsai river flowing gently nearby, to watch the family's horses drinking from the crystal-clear waters as the sun goes down behind the hills. Occasionally, Seruen tags along and provides entertainment with his eager attempts to catch fish. But for the most part, I am happy to just sit in silent introspection.

These nomadic families pack up and move three to four times a year in search of adequate fodder for their livestock, changing their lives along with the changing seasons. Once I leave, Khaiyr’s family will move into the yurt, Shokhan tells me. The yurt is decidedly warm and comforting, decorated with colourful and coarse hand-woven carpets, and the walls lined with the gleaming medals won in local horse-riding contests. This may be simple, but this is home for the family. And I am grateful for having been part of it for just a few days.

How to get there

Khaiyr Galym on horseback, with a backdrop of Mongolia's Altai mountains. Photo: Charukesi Ramadurai

The gateway to the Altai mountains is the regional hub of Olgii, three hours by plane from the capital city of Ulanbaatar, the country’s only international airport. You can fly into Ulanbaatar from Abu Dhabi via Istanbul with Turkish Airways, and from Dubai via Beijing with Air China. There are also routes with stopovers in Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul available.

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Grade 3 = between grades D and E
Grade 2 = between grades E and F
Grade 1 = between grades F and G

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3) Deadline is October 15

4) The embassy will ensure all ballots reach the US in time for the November 3 poll

Gremio 1 Pachuca 0

Gremio Everton 95’

Monster Hunter: World

Capcom

PlayStation 4, Xbox One

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km

RESULTS

2pm: Maiden Dh 60,000 (Dirt) 1,400m. Winner: Masaali, Pat Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer).

2.30pm: Handicap Dh 76,000 (D) 1,400m. Winner: Almoreb, Dane O’Neill, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

3pm: Handicap Dh 64,000 (D) 1,200m. Winner: Imprison, Fabrice Veron, Rashed Bouresly.

3.30pm: Shadwell Farm Conditions Dh 100,000 (D) 1,000m. Winner: Raahy, Adrie de Vries, Jaber Ramadhan.

4pm: Maiden Dh 60,000 (D) 1,000m. Winner: Cross The Ocean, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

4.30pm: Handicap 64,000 (D) 1,950m. Winner: Sa’Ada, Fernando Jara, Ahmad bin Harmash.

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How will Gen Alpha invest?

Mark Chahwan, co-founder and chief executive of robo-advisory firm Sarwa, forecasts that Generation Alpha (born between 2010 and 2024) will start investing in their teenage years and therefore benefit from compound interest.

“Technology and education should be the main drivers to make this happen, whether it’s investing in a few clicks or their schools/parents stepping up their personal finance education skills,” he adds.

Mr Chahwan says younger generations have a higher capacity to take on risk, but for some their appetite can be more cautious because they are investing for the first time. “Schools still do not teach personal finance and stock market investing, so a lot of the learning journey can feel daunting and intimidating,” he says.

He advises millennials to not always start with an aggressive portfolio even if they can afford to take risks. “We always advise to work your way up to your risk capacity, that way you experience volatility and get used to it. Given the higher risk capacity for the younger generations, stocks are a favourite,” says Mr Chahwan.

Highlighting the role technology has played in encouraging millennials and Gen Z to invest, he says: “They were often excluded, but with lower account minimums ... a customer with $1,000 [Dh3,672] in their account has their money working for them just as hard as the portfolio of a high get-worth individual.”

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Results

6.30pm: Mazrat Al Ruwayah Group Two (PA) US$55,000 (Dirt) 1,600m; Winner: Rasi, Harry Bentley (jockey), Sulaiman Al Ghunaimi (trainer).

7.05pm: Meydan Trophy (TB) $100,000 (Turf) 1,900m; Winner: Ya Hayati, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.

7.40pm: Handicap (TB) $135,000 (D) 1,200m; Winner: Bochart, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

8.15pm: Balanchine Group Two (TB) $250,000 (T) 1,800m; Winner: Magic Lily, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.

8.50pm: Handicap (TB) $135,000 (T) 1,000m; Winner: Waady, Jim Crowley, Doug Watson.

9.25pm: Firebreak Stakes Group Three (TB) $200,000 (D) 1,600m; Winner: Capezzano, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer.

10pm: Handicap (TB) $175,000 (T) 2,410m; Winner: Eynhallow, Mickael Barzalona, Charlie Appleby.

Specs

Engine: 51.5kW electric motor

Range: 400km

Power: 134bhp

Torque: 175Nm

Price: From Dh98,800

Available: Now

Graduated from the American University of Sharjah

She is the eldest of three brothers and two sisters

Has helped solve 15 cases of electric shocks

Enjoys travelling, reading and horse riding

UAE currency

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Top investing tips for UAE residents in 2021

Build an emergency fund: Make sure you have enough cash to cover six months of expenses as a buffer against unexpected problems before you begin investing, advises Steve Cronin, the founder of DeadSimpleSaving.com.

Think long-term: When you invest, you need to have a long-term mindset, so don’t worry about momentary ups and downs in the stock market.

Invest worldwide: Diversify your investments globally, ideally by way of a global stock index fund.

Is your money tied up: Avoid anything where you cannot get your money back in full within a month at any time without any penalty.

Skip past the promises: “If an investment product is offering more than 10 per cent return per year, it is either extremely risky or a scam,” Mr Cronin says.

Choose plans with low fees: Make sure that any funds you buy do not charge more than 1 per cent in fees, Mr Cronin says. “If you invest by yourself, you can easily stay below this figure.” Managed funds and commissionable investments often come with higher fees.

Be sceptical about recommendations: If someone suggests an investment to you, ask if they stand to gain, advises Mr Cronin. “If they are receiving commission, they are unlikely to recommend an investment that’s best for you.”

Get financially independent: Mr Cronin advises UAE residents to pursue financial independence. Start with a Google search and improve your knowledge via expat investing websites or Facebook groups such as SimplyFI.

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SPECS

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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets

The specs

Engine: 2.9-litre twin-turbo V6

Power: 540hp at 6,500rpm

Torque: 600Nm at 2,500rpm

Transmission: Eight-speed auto

Kerb weight: 1580kg

Price: From Dh750k

On sale: via special order

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Honeymoonish

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Schedule

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First Person
Richard Flanagan
Chatto & Windus

GOLF’S RAHMBO

- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)