Golden-green barley fields stretch alongside the winding lanes leading to the centuries-old Kemgun Gomba, a monastery located in Nepal. A soft veil of fog obscures the path, but the silhouette of a red concrete entryway stands out as I get closer. Adorned with intricate motifs – a conch shell, a wheel and a lotus flower – it beckons me forward. At arm’s distance, there are prayer wheels, and it is believed that turning them clockwise brings good fortune, just like the engraved motifs at the doorway. But overhead, thick grey clouds begin to blanket the sky.
In that setting, an amma (the Nepalese word for mother) asks me to come into her house, offering shelter from the drizzle. Pasang Yangzi Sherpa’s kitchen-cum-living room feels warm, a stark contrast to the coldness outside. Brass and steel utensils line her kitchen. On the wall adjoining it is a framed image of her son, Nima Ongchu, with a khada (or a ceremonial scarf). “He’s a trek guide,” Yangzi says, placing a pan on the stove to boil water. She hands me a cup of salty su-cha, also known as butter tea, saying it'll keep me warm.
I am in the small town of Lukla, which is 2,860 metres above sea level, located on the fringes of the Sagarmatha National Park in Solukhumbu district, in north-eastern Nepal. The park, inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1979, teems with biodiversity and rare wildlife species such as snow leopards and red pandas. Lukla serves as the gateway to Mount Everest (known locally as Sagarmatha, which translates to "Peak of Heaven").
As I feel the warmth of the tea, Yangzi chimes in: “My son has summited Ama Dablam and Mount Everest". The air is filled with pride – hers from her son's achievements and a chance to share the Sherpa way of life; mine from the success of making it to Everest base camp. It's an endeavour that feels incomplete without acknowledging the real heroes, the ammas who nurture Sherpas such as Nima Ongchu.
Sherpas, who carry the weight – both literally and figuratively – make these feats possible. They are an ethnic group native to Solukhumbu. Originally of Tibetan descent, they migrated to Nepal around the 15th or 16th centuries. The name Sherpa derives from the Tibetan word "sher-war", meaning people of the east, a nod to their origins in Tibet’s Kham region.
During peak season, from March to May and September to November, thousands of global tourists visit Khumbu. Data from the Nepal Tourism Board reveals more than 100,000 tourists from the Middle East arrived in Nepal in 2024.
In the bustling region of Khumbu, the clinking of trekking poles and backpacks, boots scuffing against cobbled paths, gears being packed and unpacked, instructions from guides, encouragements from fellow travellers and cafes brewing espresso to celebrate milestones are all a reflection of deep Sherpa culture and hospitality.
It is also why almost every house in Khumbu relies on tourism, as the locals say. Some Sherpas work as guides, porters, support crew, while many others have their own small businesses, such as lodges, guest houses, cafes, restaurants and shops. Not far away from Lukla’s Kemgun monastery is business owner Tenzing Sherpa, who sells trekking accessories such as poles, clothes and down jackets. The store comes to my rescue when I am in need of warm trousers.
“Tourists are important for Lukla because the entire town depends on them,” he says. “I want to give tourists the service they want and make them happy.” He can provide his services only on good weather days. “If it is cloudy, there are no flights coming into Lukla, which is infamous for its cliffside runway," he says. "No flights mean no business.”
Across the region, the efforts of Sherpas are a familiar sight. Yet, what goes unnoticed amidst the trails draped in Nepal’s national flower, the rhododendrons, are the Sherpas working quietly behind the scenes.
Just a few days earlier, along the trails connecting the towns of Namche Bazar and Khumjung, a group of workers were hunched over, chiselling rocks and laying out the paths for trekkers. Among them was Nima Sherpa, one of the underappreciated who helps build the trails. “We’ve been making this path for days,” he says. “It will take more than a month to make the way.”
This serves as a reminder of the unseen labour that sustains these mountains. He’s not the only one. In Khumjung, Gelmo Shepra, 18, works as a cook and handles housekeeping. That morning, she’s busy washing bedsheets. “I need to earn money, so I don’t want to study further,” she says. From potato flatbreads to stews, Gelmo adds, “I can cook everything on the menu.” In her free time, she loves to watch Nepali folk songs, allowing the melodies and rhythms to provide a brief escape from her busy days.
Nearby, Khumjung Secondary School, founded by Edmund Hillary in 1961, offers education up to grade 10 for more than 250 students. Tucked away in one of the region’s more remote areas, the school quietly supports the next generation of Sherpas, who may go on to work as guides, in hospitality, or even start their own businesses. While Everest often takes the spotlight, it’s the Sherpas – an essential part of climbing culture – who help make these journeys possible.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
FFP EXPLAINED
What is Financial Fair Play?
Introduced in 2011 by Uefa, European football’s governing body, it demands that clubs live within their means. Chiefly, spend within their income and not make substantial losses.
What the rules dictate?
The second phase of its implementation limits losses to €30 million (Dh136m) over three seasons. Extra expenditure is permitted for investment in sustainable areas (youth academies, stadium development, etc). Money provided by owners is not viewed as income. Revenue from “related parties” to those owners is assessed by Uefa's “financial control body” to be sure it is a fair value, or in line with market prices.
What are the penalties?
There are a number of punishments, including fines, a loss of prize money or having to reduce squad size for European competition – as happened to PSG in 2014. There is even the threat of a competition ban, which could in theory lead to PSG’s suspension from the Uefa Champions League.
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WORLD'S%2010%20HIGHEST%20MOUNTAINS
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre V6
Power: 272hp at 6,400rpm
Torque: 331Nm from 5,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.7L/100km
On sale: now
Price: Dh149,000
The specs: 2019 Chevrolet Bolt EV
Price, base: Dh138,000 (estimate)
Engine: 60kWh battery
Transmission: Single-speed Electronic Precision Shift
Power: 204hp
Torque: 360Nm
Range: 520km (claimed)
Cinco in numbers
Dh3.7 million
The estimated cost of Victoria Swarovski’s gem-encrusted Michael Cinco wedding gown
46
The number, in kilograms, that Swarovski’s wedding gown weighed.
1,000
The hours it took to create Cinco’s vermillion petal gown, as seen in his atelier [note, is the one he’s playing with in the corner of a room]
50
How many looks Cinco has created in a new collection to celebrate Ballet Philippines’ 50th birthday
3,000
The hours needed to create the butterfly gown worn by Aishwarya Rai to the 2018 Cannes Film Festival.
1.1 million
The number of followers that Michael Cinco’s Instagram account has garnered.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Tips for job-seekers
- Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
- Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.
David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East
RIDE%20ON
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COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
2024%20Dubai%20Marathon%20Results
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The%20specs%3A%20Taycan%20Turbo%20GT
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MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW
Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman
Director: Jesse Armstrong
Rating: 3.5/5
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Brief scores:
Arsenal 4
Xhaka 25', Lacazette 55', Ramsey 79', Aubameyang 83'
Fulham 1
Kamara 69'
The specs: 2018 BMW R nineT Scrambler
Price, base / as tested Dh57,000
Engine 1,170cc air/oil-cooled flat twin four-stroke engine
Transmission Six-speed gearbox
Power 110hp) @ 7,750rpm
Torque 116Nm @ 6,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined 5.3L / 100km
Who has been sanctioned?
Daniella Weiss and Nachala
Described as 'the grandmother of the settler movement', she has encouraged the expansion of settlements for decades. The 79 year old leads radical settler movement Nachala, whose aim is for Israel to annex Gaza and the occupied West Bank, where it helps settlers built outposts.
Harel Libi & Libi Construction and Infrastructure
Libi has been involved in threatening and perpetuating acts of aggression and violence against Palestinians. His firm has provided logistical and financial support for the establishment of illegal outposts.
Zohar Sabah
Runs a settler outpost named Zohar’s Farm and has previously faced charges of violence against Palestinians. He was indicted by Israel’s State Attorney’s Office in September for allegedly participating in a violent attack against Palestinians and activists in the West Bank village of Muarrajat.
Coco’s Farm and Neria’s Farm
These are illegal outposts in the West Bank, which are at the vanguard of the settler movement. According to the UK, they are associated with people who have been involved in enabling, inciting, promoting or providing support for activities that amount to “serious abuse”.
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
MATCH INFO
Manchester City 1 Chelsea 0
De Bruyne (70')
Man of the Match: Kevin de Bruyne (Manchester City)
SPECS
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Mane points for safe home colouring
- Natural and grey hair takes colour differently than chemically treated hair
- Taking hair from a dark to a light colour should involve a slow transition through warmer stages of colour
- When choosing a colour (especially a lighter tone), allow for a natural lift of warmth
- Most modern hair colours are technique-based, in that they require a confident hand and taught skills
- If you decide to be brave and go for it, seek professional advice and use a semi-permanent colour
