As I stand at its base, straining my neck to take in its towering, wooded slopes, it’s easy to understand why Le Morne mountain is such an emotive cultural symbol for Mauritians. In the island’s south-west, and with a striking geological profile, the Unesco World Heritage Site was once a sanctuary for runaway slaves, known as maroons, who sought refuge in its rugged folds.
Legend has it that when slavery was abolished in Mauritius in 1835, officials approached Le Morne to inform the maroons of their freedom. Suspecting it might be a ploy by their colonial masters to recapture them, many of the runaways leapt from the cliffs – into what became known as the Valley of Bones – rather than face being enslaved again.
Today, the site has become a powerful symbol of the slaves’ resistance and freedom in a country with a compelling story of colonial domination. Once part of the complex and widespread international slave trade, Mauritius was colonised in 1628 by the Dutch, who brought in hundreds of slaves from Madagascar to work on its sugar cane plantations.
Soon the country was teeming with slaves brought in from Mozambique, Madagascar, India, China, Malaysia, Haiti, Reunion island, France and Senegal. In 1710, the Dutch left, leaving Mauritius under French control. Following the Franco-British wars, the island came under British rule in 1810, which continued until independence in 1968.
Commendably, rather than bury its past, Mauritius officially commemorates its abolition of slavery. Each year, on August 23, it celebrates Unesco's International Day for the Remembrance of the Slave Trade to generate greater awareness about this part of its history. Historical sites – visually stunning and symbolically rich – associated with its slave history have become bustling venues for official ceremonies attended by heads of state, human rights advocates and international media.
Witnessing many such ceremonies across the island on a recent trip turned out to be a deeply immersive experience. The celebrations helped me to look at Mauritius with new eyes, as much more than a holiday haven with stunning beaches and crystalline waters.
At the foot of Le Morne is another symbol of slavery, the Slave Route Monument. The group of 10 sculptures pays tribute to the maroons and their struggle for freedom. A central sculpture is surrounded by a constellation of smaller ones with engravings representing countries where slaves were taken from and to. Established in 2009, the monument is also officially a part of Unesco's international Slave Route Project, which links countries with a legacy of slavery.
I ambled around the monument, soaking up its exquisite craftsmanship spotlighting painful yet inspiring stories of the enslaved. The monument’s beauty, the fresh sea breeze blowing through the surrounding foliage, as well as the tranquillity that envelops the site, make it a perfect escape from the whirligig of everyday life.
The next day I visited Aapravasi Ghat, another Unesco World Heritage Site, and a landmark symbol of Mauritian history. The former immigration depot in the bay of Trou Fanfaron, in the bustling capital Port Louis, is where close to half a million Indian indentured labourers landed in 1829. They had signed a contract with the colonists, in pursuit of land offshore from India, but were instead sent to work in the sugar cane farms of Mauritius. The in-house Slavery Museum showcases their lives on the island, including records of their arrivals and some of their belongings.
The last place I went on the Slave Heritage Trail was Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, built with the labour of slaves, who toiled on the property for months to give it shape. Probably the earliest botanical garden in the tropics, the sprawling 18th-century property is filled with exotic flora, including an abundance of grapefruit trees (pamplemousses in French). The adjoining village of Pamplemousses has many other traces of slavery such as the Bassin des Esclaves (where the slaves were bathed before being auctioned); the Cimetiere Noir (a slave cemetery) and the Marche aux Esclaves (the slave market).
As I left the historic garden, I reflected on how learning about the history of Mauritius had helped change my perception of the country. I had a greater appreciation for its blend of cultures and ethnicities, its ethos of acceptance of different people and their ancestries, as well as its multicultural heritage that makes it a truly inclusive nation in a world roiled by strife and racial bias.
