At rainforest resort The Datai Langkawi, travellers are immersed in nature. Photo: The Datai Langkawi
At rainforest resort The Datai Langkawi, travellers are immersed in nature. Photo: The Datai Langkawi
At rainforest resort The Datai Langkawi, travellers are immersed in nature. Photo: The Datai Langkawi
At rainforest resort The Datai Langkawi, travellers are immersed in nature. Photo: The Datai Langkawi

Langkawi beyond the beach: New and enduring adventures on one of Malaysia's best island destinations


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Every time I visit Malaysia I make sure to escape for a few days to Langkawi, a paradise bolthole of palm-fringed sandy beaches, tropical mangroves and 500 million year-old rainforest. With its idyllic archipelago of tiny islands rising out of the Andaman Sea, this destination is one of those rare getaways that remains unspoilt and under the radar of mass tourism.

Instead, the island attracts curious independent travellers attracted by its fantastic wildlife, innovative sustainable initiatives, arts and literary festivals, and outdoor activities that range from a 2,500-competitor Ironman contest to exclusive sailing regattas. In 2025, Langkawi looks set to boost its global reputation, with filming of the BBC series adaptation of William Golding's novel Lord Of The Flies under way. For travellers there are also plenty of new attractions, as I found out on my latest visit.

Resisting the temptation to laze on the beach, I instead head straight for Pantai Rhu where local sports outfit H2Ocean rents out kayaks, paddle boards and catamaran bikes. These are perfect for exploring the surrounding coast’s deserted beaches, hidden caves and mangrove forest without leaving a carbon footprint. Countless local boat operators also offer tours out to the tiny islets of Langkawi’s archipelago, especially to Pulau Dayang Bunting – Pregnant Maiden Island – and its spectacular lake, but the trips can get busy. Another way to explore the islands is offered by Hussein Mohd Said, originally from Kuala Lumpur, who runs water sports company Mega Water Sports. It has a fleet of about 200 jet skis, and organises two-hour guided excursions to secluded islands and beaches.

As the sun sets, a taxi takes me from my hotel to the centre of the island to visit Dream Forest, the biggest attraction to have opened in Langkawi since my last trip here. This rainforest night walk invites travellers to explore a fantasy world of giants, warriors and mythical creatures, created by colourful illuminations, projection mapping, music and dance. The must-do experience, it is a unique attraction that also adds some exciting nightlife options to a destination not known for it. Impressively, it was created within the forest environment without cutting down a single tree.

When it comes to eating out, Langkawi is still on the slow road of post-Covid recovery with few new locations to speak of. But the street food scene is booming in traditional night markets, where travellers can indulge at scores of stalls in a different village each night of the week. On a Tuesday in Kedawang, the market is a seething mix of locals and tourists feasting on generous plates of fried noodles, spicy papaya salad, satay sticks, and fiery beef and chicken curries.

Pantai Cenang in Langkawi has a buzzy backpacker scene. AFP
Pantai Cenang in Langkawi has a buzzy backpacker scene. AFP

Over on Pantai Tengah, there is an important address that gourmet tourists will want to visit: Chinese restaurant Orkid Ria which recently reopened after being closed for more than four years. A favourite with locals and tourists alike, the owners have built a palatial new locale with verdant landscaping, modern architecture, live music, and the freshest, most delicious locally-sourced seafood you have ever tasted – giant tiger and mantis prawns, mud and soft-shell crabs, lobster, grouper and pomfret.

Next morning, as I drive around Langkawi it is clear that the hotel scene is lively right now. There is a buzzing backpacker and budget scene at the two main beach resorts, Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah, while luxury travellers are tempted by the island’s renowned international resorts. This year, Hilton Burau Bay Resort Langkawi will provide more choice in this market, opening along on the western coast.

Langkawi offers travellers unspoiled beaches and a host of new attractions. Photo: Four Seasons Langkawi
Langkawi offers travellers unspoiled beaches and a host of new attractions. Photo: Four Seasons Langkawi

For now, Four Seasons Langkawi remains the most desirable hotel, and added two renovated bedroom beach villas last year and a new restaurant. Hava is the place to go to sample a gourmet menu of Indian dishes such as delicate Kashmiri gucci shorba soup of morel mushrooms with saffron, or tandoori samundri ratan, chargrilled locally-fished lobster and succulent river prawns, all the work of Himalayan-born chef Barwan. The hotel is a short boat ride away from a maze of steamy mangroves, part of Langkawi’s famed Unesco GeoPark. I have taken this excursion many times, but today the nature guide puts much more emphasis on educating us not just on the wonders of the flora and fauna, but also travellers' collective eco-responsibilities, including respecting the natural environment by not feeding the greedy monkeys and swooping sea eagles that have been spoilt by tour groups thoughtlessly throwing them food to get souvenir photos.

Over at The Datai, Langkawi’s most exclusive retreat, there are also new sustainable projects including a craft workshop, surrounded by dense jungle, that is dedicated to upcycling, where guests learn to create everything from candles, soap, jewellery and bags out of recycled rubbish. This year, The Datai’s innovative Chef Series will bring some of the world’s most celebrated chefs to Langkawi to cook in the hotel’s kitchen. Exclusive dinners will be prepared by the likes of Ana Ros from three Michelin-starred Hisa Franko in Slovenia and Jordi Artal of Cinc Sentits, a two Michelin-star restaurant in Barcelona.

Coconest Langkawi offers an eco-friendly stay over the water. Photo: Airbnb
Coconest Langkawi offers an eco-friendly stay over the water. Photo: Airbnb

Visitors seeking to stay in a Malay stilt house can still find this at Bon Ton, Langkawi's pioneering boutique heritage property, where owner Narelle McMurtrie has also introduced new attractions. These include a boutique of Malaysian designer Ehka’s sought-after upcycled bracelets, necklaces and handbags, a dedicated children's atelier and Copycat Cafe, dedicated to cat-lovers, where purchases go towards supporting animal welfare work on the island.

For travellers seeking the ultimate hideaway, Langkawi boasts what for me is one of the most distinctive glamping concepts, Coconest. This eco-friendly, coconut-shaped pod floats just offshore, accessible by boat from Tanjung Rhu jetty. It is the brainchild of two local architects and won a 2022 Airbnb competition for creative holiday rental proposals. The solar-powered retreat is expanding in 2025 with additional pods, a new cafe, and a hangout space, making now the best time to go and sleep under the stars on the Andaman Sea.

While you're here
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Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra

Rating: 4/5

 

MATCH INFO

Manchester United 1 (Rashford 36')

Liverpool 1 (Lallana 84')

Man of the match: Marcus Rashford (Manchester United)

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Electoral College Victory

Trump has so far secured 295 Electoral College votes, according to the Associated Press, exceeding the 270 needed to win. Only Nevada and Arizona remain to be called, and both swing states are leaning Republican. Trump swept all five remaining swing states, North Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin, sealing his path to victory and giving him a strong mandate. 

 

Popular Vote Tally

The count is ongoing, but Trump currently leads with nearly 51 per cent of the popular vote to Harris’s 47.6 per cent. Trump has over 72.2 million votes, while Harris trails with approximately 67.4 million.

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Essentials

The flights
Etihad and Emirates fly direct from the UAE to Delhi from about Dh950 return including taxes.
The hotels
Double rooms at Tijara Fort-Palace cost from 6,670 rupees (Dh377), including breakfast.
Doubles at Fort Bishangarh cost from 29,030 rupees (Dh1,641), including breakfast. Doubles at Narendra Bhawan cost from 15,360 rupees (Dh869). Doubles at Chanoud Garh cost from 19,840 rupees (Dh1,122), full board. Doubles at Fort Begu cost from 10,000 rupees (Dh565), including breakfast.
The tours 
Amar Grover travelled with Wild Frontiers. A tailor-made, nine-day itinerary via New Delhi, with one night in Tijara and two nights in each of the remaining properties, including car/driver, costs from £1,445 (Dh6,968) per person.

The biog

Born: Kuwait in 1986
Family: She is the youngest of seven siblings
Time in the UAE: 10 years
Hobbies: audiobooks and fitness: she works out every day, enjoying kickboxing and basketball

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Director: Ed Perkins

Stars: Alex and Marcus Lewis

Four stars

Dust and sand storms compared

Sand storm

  • Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
  • Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
  • Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
  • Travel distance: Limited 
  • Source: Open desert areas with strong winds

Dust storm

  • Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
  • Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
  • Duration: Can linger for days
  • Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
  • Source: Can be carried from distant regions
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How to apply for a drone permit
  • Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
  • Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
  • Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
  • Submit their request
What are the regulations?
  • Fly it within visual line of sight
  • Never over populated areas
  • Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
  • Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
  • Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
  • Should have a live feed of the drone flight
  • Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

Updated: January 30, 2025, 10:40 AM`