“One hand on here, the other on here and unhook the carabiners one at a time, then move them to the next section. Don’t go in another section if someone else is already in it,” says Klaus, my rather gruff climbing instructor. “One person in a section,” he repeats in his no-nonsense manner.
Having already been grumpily ordered out of passing travellers' way and almost breaking into a run to keep up with the instructor on what was a steep 15-minute incline just to reach the base of the via ferrata ahead of me, I’m beginning to regret my choice of activity on the slopes surrounding the Inn Valley.
“What is it that people even like about via ferratas?” I ask my peers who are gathered at the base of the 400-metre-high Geierwand. "It makes rock climbing more accessible,” replies Jody – a Canadian freelance journalist who has also signed up for this morning’s iron way challenge. Looking up at the intimidating rockface in front of me, I wonder if I'd have been better opting to explore my hotel sauna instead.
The sun is beating down strong on this exposed alpine ledge, so when it's finally my turn to go, I hope that I'll at least be able to climb into the shade. I step onto the first metal rung and clip my carabiners to the metal rope tacked to the limestone cliff. Edging forward, I move to the next section, stopping to put on some leather gloves to protect my hands. After a few more rungs, the via ferrata winds around the cliff face and I find myself slowly getting more comfortable with the clunky nature of this method of rock scaling.
With section joints every two metres or so, progress isn’t fast, but before long I realise I’m a good 10 metres above the base level. Ten minutes later, I hoist myself up with my arms onto a little ledge where Klaus is sitting, waiting.
“You need to push with your legs, not pull with your arms,” he commands, before unexpectedly adding: “Sit here and rest for a minute, let me get your water bottle out of your backpack for you”. Later, over a plate of delicious Austrian grostl in a nearby tavern, Klaus reveals he works for the military and only guides tours on the weekend. While this explains his strict orders, it's something I wish he’d told us from the beginning. With this knowledge, I realise that his serious manner is simply his way of keeping everyone safe; quite a responsibility when you have nine climbers spread out on a rock face hundreds of metres above the ground.
Around two and a half hours later, and having finally mastered the leg-over-arms climbing technique, I give myself one last push and triumphantly step off the last via ferrata rung. Unclipping my carabiners I sink onto the dirt – exhausted but ecstatic as I take in the stunning valley views below, finally grasping why via ferrata climbing is so popular.
Exploring the capital of the Alps
I’m on a five-day adventure in the Austrian Alps, part of the first AdventureElevate Europe conference being organised by the world’s largest adventure travel network. I'm staying in the nearby city of Innsbruck, known both as the capital of Austria’s Tyrol and the capital of the Alps.
Within touching distance of the city are the jagged peaks of the Nordkette mountains, rising 2,300 metres. Setting the scene for adventure, the range is reachable from the city centre in just 30 minutes with a ride on the Zaha Hadid-designed cable cars that whisk visitors to the top of Innsbruck. On our journey to the viewpoint a few days earlier, we were rewarded with views of Austria's largest nature park overlooking colourful city roofs, turquoise glacial-fed rivers and the imposing Bergisel Ski Jump, also designed by the British-Iraqi starchitect.
Back at river level, Innsbruck is well worth exploring. Dating back to the Bronze Age, the uniformly pretty city boasts a treasure trove of ancient artefacts and impressive architecture. A quick walking tour takes us through medieval winding streets laid with ancient stone and where a city beautification project is currently under way to replace the stones with those of similar stature so they last another several hundred years. It's set to be completed next year.
Along the river, pastel-coloured houses line the banks. "They were painted different colours so people would know where to go to get bread, fish or clothes, even if they weren't able to speak or read the same language," explains Angela, an Innsbruck native and our walking tour guide.
From the river, we head to the Hofburg Palace where an exhibition about Emperor Maximilian I delves into the life of the city's former ruler who was known for his jousting and commitment to dynastic marriage. Afterwards, we stop at the Golden Roof, a Gothic-style building with a shimmering balcony inlaid with 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles that was built at the order of Maximilian. The unconventional ruler never actually stayed in the building, but used the lavish balcony as a place from which to observe festivals and other events in the square below.
Something of a compulsive character, Maximillian also spent years designing his final resting place in Innsbruck, which was to be an elaborate marble mausoleum surrounded by 40 bronze statues depicting his ancestors and heroes. When we go to visit the magnificent tomb in Court Church, completed well after his death, we learn that it is destined to remain empty as, after a dispute with the city, the emperor decided he should instead be laid to rest in the church of Saint George in the castle of Wiener Neustadt, some 500km away.
Working up an Alpine appetite
Next morning, we're up bright and early for an e-bike tour with a difference. Travelling to Mieming, about an hour from Innsbruck, we collect our bikes and set off on the Cycle and Savour route along the Mieminger Plateau. Before long, we're passing underneath snow-capped peaks and through flower-filled wild meadows where cows lazily graze as their metal bells clang. Steep hills on this 35km pathway are easily managed thanks to the e-bikes, which give plenty of joy for minimal effort.
But the appeal goes beyond the cycling, as this gourmet experience includes regular stops at local businesses where we can sample Tyrolean cuisine. A tiny farm called Dismas Hofladen is our first stop and in the farmer's shop, we taste cuts of chunks of creamy cheese and cured meat, including a pungent grey-hued cheese – a regional speciality made only in the Tyrolean Alps.
Next up is Organic Farm Omesbichl, a tiny wooden shopfront where visitors can purchase eggs, taken directly from the hens being raised here, and organic fruit or vegetables. It's possibly the only e-biking tour I'll do where I finish the ride heavier than I started, but we are in Austria after all, a place where food culture is celebrated and meals are relished. There's even a word for it. "It's called gemuetlichkeit and it's about savouring each bite, relishing simple things and enjoying great company," our tour guide explains when we stop for lunch at a traditional Austrian inn.
With so many active outdoor adventures right on their doorstep, Tyrolians can easily afford to let themselves get carried away when it comes to refuelling. Which is why I decide to embrace my inner Austrian as we cycle into the parking lot at Greenvieh, a mountain-surrounded restaurant, and take a seat on the terrace to drink in stunning alpine views accompanied by a piping hot slice of flaky apple strudel.
How to get there
Etihad Airways operates 10 flights per week between Munich and Abu Dhabi. From May, the national airline of the UAE will operate two daily flights to the German city from where it's a two-hour drive to Tyrol.
Where to stay
Hotel Innsbruck offers a fantastic city centre location and a golden-tiled indoor swimming pool. In the mountains, stay at Holzleiten Bio Wellness Hotel for excellent all-organic food and open-air swimming. Families should head instead to nearby Hotel Stern where there’s an entire array of activities and adventures on offer for little ones.
