While Europe consistently ranks as the most-visited continent in the world, the Baltic states often fall under the radar. However, after a week in Tallinn, the picture-perfect capital of Estonia, I'm confident it won't stay this way for long.
Perched above Latvia, Estonia is the northernmost country of the Baltic states and is a nation peppered with striking landscapes and a fascinating history. The country is entirely unique: it shares a geography similar to Latvia and Lithuania, has a language (and love of saunas) most closely linked to the Fins and has a long Soviet influence that it has worked hard to shake off.
Tallinn is home to more than a third of the population. It's a place that's often a quick stop for tourists, who cross the water from Helsinki on a weekend trip or package a visit with stays in nearby Latvia and Lithuania.
After an easy 4km journey from the airport to the city centre, I find myself wandering around one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. Tallinn’s picturesque Old Town certainly earns its Unesco stripes. Gazing down from the city’s main viewpoints – Kohtuotsa, Patkuli and Piiskopi – I'm in awe of the steep red roofs and dramatic spires, encircled by a defensive wall of rounded towers all backdropped by the Baltic Sea.
Although the Old Town is walkable, with most of the main attractions close together, it's worth setting aside at least a full day for exploring as every turn through its meandering streets reveals something new. From the cobbles of Pikk Street, the longest and oldest road in Tallinn to St Catherine’s Passage, which is full of ancient history. On the Town Hall's spire sits Old Thomas, a peasant boy whose talent with the crossbow earned him legendary status as the city’s guardian. In the same square is the oldest pharmacy in Europe and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a domed Russian Orthodox church that sits at architectural odds with its neighbour, the Baroque Toompea Castle, now Estonia’s Parliament.
Of course, autumn getaways are as much about getting cosy as being cold, so after drinking in all of the Old Town's charms, it's time to warm up. The city has more than 40 museums, from the below-ground 17th-century bastion passages to magnificent art displayed in Kadriorg Palace. My favourite is the Seaplane Harbour, a hangar full of maritime items, including a submarine and a steam-powered icebreaker.
Museums aside, when I truly want to defrost, Tallinn has a sauna tradition as strong as its Scandinavian neighbours – the first written records of sauna bathing in Estonia date back to the 13th century. There are plenty of public saunas to embrace the culture, including the Tallinn Sauna, the oldest public sauna in the capital.
Estonia is a country that has fought hard for its identity. Occupied over the years by Sweden, Denmark, Poland and Germany, it's a country that has only had five decades of independence. Most recently, Estonia was part of the Soviet Union. Remnants of this remain via KGB prison cells and Hotel Viru, where a hidden 23rd floor shows where secret police spied on international tourists. The Tallinn TV Tower – originally built to provide better communication for the 1980 Moscow Olympics – is another. It's now northern Europe's highest open viewing platform and a symbol of modern Estonia.
Outside these well-known vestiges of the Soviet era are lesser-known venues including the abandoned Olympic venue Linnahall. Located by the harbour, just beyond the Old City walls, it remains closed to the public but some urban exploring of the Brutalist structure reveals some interesting street graffiti, and a decent view of the surrounding area.
With time to explore beyond Tallinn's medieval walls, I discover a bustling, vibrant culture. While some of the city's historical buildings remain unused and abandoned, many have been repurposed as community spaces. In one former industrial complex is Telliskivi Creative City, a place where the graffitied urban grit and creative pulse remind me of Copenhagen’s Christiana or Ljubljana’s Metelkova. It is the rebellious, and cooler, younger sibling of Tallinn's Old Town. It's a place to go and get lost wandering, soaking up bohemian vibes, exploring the multistorey Fotografiska museum and stopping for a bite to eat – I recommend Peatus, a restaurant that's housed in two train cars.
Of course, no autumn city break is complete without a visit to an indoor market, and Tallinn’s three-floored Balti Jaam is the result of further adaptive reuse. There are endless street food options here, from local Estonian delights to international fare. Try Samsa Family Bakers to sample delicious and freshly made Uzbek dishes or keep things local with a sweet home-style cinnamon braid.
With a full stomach, it's time to head to the seaside. Noblessner is on Tallinn's north coast next to the Seaplane Harbour and is a former submarine shipyard that was founded by Emanual Nobel, the nephew of Nobel Prize founder Alfred Nobel. Today, the neighbourhood is one of Tallinn's trendiest spots for drinking and dining – it's home to 180°, considered one of the country's top three restaurants – and has art galleries, saunas and nightlife spots. It's also my insider tip as the best place to go to drink in an uninterrupted sunset view over the Baltic Sea.
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Tightening the screw on rogue recruiters
The UAE overhauled the procedure to recruit housemaids and domestic workers with a law in 2017 to protect low-income labour from being exploited.
Only recruitment companies authorised by the government are permitted as part of Tadbeer, a network of labour ministry-regulated centres.
A contract must be drawn up for domestic workers, the wages and job offer clearly stating the nature of work.
The contract stating the wages, work entailed and accommodation must be sent to the employee in their home country before they depart for the UAE.
The contract will be signed by the employer and employee when the domestic worker arrives in the UAE.
Only recruitment agencies registered with the ministry can undertake recruitment and employment applications for domestic workers.
Penalties for illegal recruitment in the UAE include fines of up to Dh100,000 and imprisonment
But agents not authorised by the government sidestep the law by illegally getting women into the country on visit visas.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Global Fungi Facts
• Scientists estimate there could be as many as 3 million fungal species globally
• Only about 160,000 have been officially described leaving around 90% undiscovered
• Fungi account for roughly 90% of Earth's unknown biodiversity
• Forest fungi help tackle climate change, absorbing up to 36% of global fossil fuel emissions annually and storing around 5 billion tonnes of carbon in the planet's topsoil
Points to remember
- Debate the issue, don't attack the person
- Build the relationship and dialogue by seeking to find common ground
- Express passion for the issue but be aware of when you're losing control or when there's anger. If there is, pause and take some time out.
- Listen actively without interrupting
- Avoid assumptions, seek understanding, ask questions
Dust and sand storms compared
Sand storm
- Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
- Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
- Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
- Travel distance: Limited
- Source: Open desert areas with strong winds
Dust storm
- Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
- Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
- Duration: Can linger for days
- Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
- Source: Can be carried from distant regions
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
FULL%20RESULTS
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The%20Hunger%20Games%3A%20The%20Ballad%20of%20Songbirds%20%26%20Snakes
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'My Son'
Director: Christian Carion
Starring: James McAvoy, Claire Foy, Tom Cullen, Gary Lewis
Rating: 2/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The bio
Favourite book: The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho
Favourite travel destination: Maldives and south of France
Favourite pastime: Family and friends, meditation, discovering new cuisines
Favourite Movie: Joker (2019). I didn’t like it while I was watching it but then afterwards I loved it. I loved the psychology behind it.
Favourite Author: My father for sure
Favourite Artist: Damien Hurst
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The specS: 2018 Toyota Camry
Price: base / as tested: Dh91,000 / Dh114,000
Engine: 3.5-litre V6
Gearbox: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 298hp @ 6,600rpm
Torque: 356Nm @ 4,700rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 7.0L / 100km
Dengue%20fever%20symptoms
%3Cp%3EHigh%20fever%20(40%C2%B0C%2F104%C2%B0F)%3Cbr%3ESevere%20headache%3Cbr%3EPain%20behind%20the%20eyes%3Cbr%3EMuscle%20and%20joint%20pains%3Cbr%3ENausea%3Cbr%3EVomiting%3Cbr%3ESwollen%20glands%3Cbr%3ERash%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm
Transmission: 9-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh117,059
Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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3%20Body%20Problem
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What is Folia?
Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed bin Talal's new plant-based menu will launch at Four Seasons hotels in Dubai this November. A desire to cater to people looking for clean, healthy meals beyond green salad is what inspired Prince Khaled and American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney to create Folia. The word means "from the leaves" in Latin, and the exclusive menu offers fine plant-based cuisine across Four Seasons properties in Los Angeles, Bahrain and, soon, Dubai.
Kenney specialises in vegan cuisine and is the founder of Plant Food Wine and 20 other restaurants worldwide. "I’ve always appreciated Matthew’s work," says the Saudi royal. "He has a singular culinary talent and his approach to plant-based dining is prescient and unrivalled. I was a fan of his long before we established our professional relationship."
Folia first launched at The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills in July 2018. It is available at the poolside Cabana Restaurant and for in-room dining across the property, as well as in its private event space. The food is vibrant and colourful, full of fresh dishes such as the hearts of palm ceviche with California fruit, vegetables and edible flowers; green hearb tacos filled with roasted squash and king oyster barbacoa; and a savoury coconut cream pie with macadamia crust.
In March 2019, the Folia menu reached Gulf shores, as it was introduced at the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, where it is served at the Bay View Lounge. Next, on Tuesday, November 1 – also known as World Vegan Day – it will come to the UAE, to the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and the Four Seasons DIFC, both properties Prince Khaled has spent "considerable time at and love".
There are also plans to take Folia to several more locations throughout the Middle East and Europe.
While health-conscious diners will be attracted to the concept, Prince Khaled is careful to stress Folia is "not meant for a specific subset of customers. It is meant for everyone who wants a culinary experience without the negative impact that eating out so often comes with."
Multitasking pays off for money goals
Tackling money goals one at a time cost financial literacy expert Barbara O'Neill at least $1 million.
That's how much Ms O'Neill, a distinguished professor at Rutgers University in the US, figures she lost by starting saving for retirement only after she had created an emergency fund, bought a car with cash and purchased a home.
"I tell students that eventually, 30 years later, I hit the million-dollar mark, but I could've had $2 million," Ms O'Neill says.
Too often, financial experts say, people want to attack their money goals one at a time: "As soon as I pay off my credit card debt, then I'll start saving for a home," or, "As soon as I pay off my student loan debt, then I'll start saving for retirement"."
People do not realise how costly the words "as soon as" can be. Paying off debt is a worthy goal, but it should not come at the expense of other goals, particularly saving for retirement. The sooner money is contributed, the longer it can benefit from compounded returns. Compounded returns are when your investment gains earn their own gains, which can dramatically increase your balances over time.
"By putting off saving for the future, you are really inhibiting yourself from benefiting from that wonderful magic," says Kimberly Zimmerman Rand , an accredited financial counsellor and principal at Dragonfly Financial Solutions in Boston. "If you can start saving today ... you are going to have a lot more five years from now than if you decide to pay off debt for three years and start saving in year four."
RESULTS
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