The wealth of trees and green spaces turn Tallinn into a sea of colour come autumn. Photo: Kaupo Kalda / Visit Tallinn
The wealth of trees and green spaces turn Tallinn into a sea of colour come autumn. Photo: Kaupo Kalda / Visit Tallinn
The wealth of trees and green spaces turn Tallinn into a sea of colour come autumn. Photo: Kaupo Kalda / Visit Tallinn
The wealth of trees and green spaces turn Tallinn into a sea of colour come autumn. Photo: Kaupo Kalda / Visit Tallinn

Treasures of Tallinn: Why Estonia’s medieval capital is the perfect autumn city break


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While Europe consistently ranks as the most-visited continent in the world, the Baltic states often fall under the radar. However, after a week in Tallinn, the picture-perfect capital of Estonia, I'm confident it won't stay this way for long.

Perched above Latvia, Estonia is the northernmost country of the Baltic states and is a nation peppered with striking landscapes and a fascinating history. The country is entirely unique: it shares a geography similar to Latvia and Lithuania, has a language (and love of saunas) most closely linked to the Fins and has a long Soviet influence that it has worked hard to shake off.

Tallinn is home to more than a third of the population. It's a place that's often a quick stop for tourists, who cross the water from Helsinki on a weekend trip or package a visit with stays in nearby Latvia and Lithuania.

Tallinn Old Town offers majestic medieval history. Photo: Kaupo Kalda / Visit Tallinn
Tallinn Old Town offers majestic medieval history. Photo: Kaupo Kalda / Visit Tallinn

After an easy 4km journey from the airport to the city centre, I find myself wandering around one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. Tallinn’s picturesque Old Town certainly earns its Unesco stripes. Gazing down from the city’s main viewpoints – Kohtuotsa, Patkuli and Piiskopi – I'm in awe of the steep red roofs and dramatic spires, encircled by a defensive wall of rounded towers all backdropped by the Baltic Sea.

Although the Old Town is walkable, with most of the main attractions close together, it's worth setting aside at least a full day for exploring as every turn through its meandering streets reveals something new. From the cobbles of Pikk Street, the longest and oldest road in Tallinn to St Catherine’s Passage, which is full of ancient history. On the Town Hall's spire sits Old Thomas, a peasant boy whose talent with the crossbow earned him legendary status as the city’s guardian. In the same square is the oldest pharmacy in Europe and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a domed Russian Orthodox church that sits at architectural odds with its neighbour, the Baroque Toompea Castle, now Estonia’s Parliament.

Of course, autumn getaways are as much about getting cosy as being cold, so after drinking in all of the Old Town's charms, it's time to warm up. The city has more than 40 museums, from the below-ground 17th-century bastion passages to magnificent art displayed in Kadriorg Palace. My favourite is the Seaplane Harbour, a hangar full of maritime items, including a submarine and a steam-powered icebreaker.

Telliskivi Creative City in Tallinn. Photo: Rasmus Jurkatam / Visit Tallinn
Telliskivi Creative City in Tallinn. Photo: Rasmus Jurkatam / Visit Tallinn

Museums aside, when I truly want to defrost, Tallinn has a sauna tradition as strong as its Scandinavian neighbours – the first written records of sauna bathing in Estonia date back to the 13th century. There are plenty of public saunas to embrace the culture, including the Tallinn Sauna, the oldest public sauna in the capital.

Estonia is a country that has fought hard for its identity. Occupied over the years by Sweden, Denmark, Poland and Germany, it's a country that has only had five decades of independence. Most recently, Estonia was part of the Soviet Union. Remnants of this remain via KGB prison cells and Hotel Viru, where a hidden 23rd floor shows where secret police spied on international tourists. The Tallinn TV Tower – originally built to provide better communication for the 1980 Moscow Olympics – is another. It's now northern Europe's highest open viewing platform and a symbol of modern Estonia.

Outside these well-known vestiges of the Soviet era are lesser-known venues including the abandoned Olympic venue Linnahall. Located by the harbour, just beyond the Old City walls, it remains closed to the public but some urban exploring of the Brutalist structure reveals some interesting street graffiti, and a decent view of the surrounding area.

One of Tallinn's most vibrant communities is right on the coast. Photo: Visit Tallinn
One of Tallinn's most vibrant communities is right on the coast. Photo: Visit Tallinn

With time to explore beyond Tallinn's medieval walls, I discover a bustling, vibrant culture. While some of the city's historical buildings remain unused and abandoned, many have been repurposed as community spaces. In one former industrial complex is Telliskivi Creative City, a place where the graffitied urban grit and creative pulse remind me of Copenhagen’s Christiana or Ljubljana’s Metelkova. It is the rebellious, and cooler, younger sibling of Tallinn's Old Town. It's a place to go and get lost wandering, soaking up bohemian vibes, exploring the multistorey Fotografiska museum and stopping for a bite to eat – I recommend Peatus, a restaurant that's housed in two train cars.

Of course, no autumn city break is complete without a visit to an indoor market, and Tallinn’s three-floored Balti Jaam is the result of further adaptive reuse. There are endless street food options here, from local Estonian delights to international fare. Try Samsa Family Bakers to sample delicious and freshly made Uzbek dishes or keep things local with a sweet home-style cinnamon braid.

With a full stomach, it's time to head to the seaside. Noblessner is on Tallinn's north coast next to the Seaplane Harbour and is a former submarine shipyard that was founded by Emanual Nobel, the nephew of Nobel Prize founder Alfred Nobel. Today, the neighbourhood is one of Tallinn's trendiest spots for drinking and dining – it's home to 180°, considered one of the country's top three restaurants – and has art galleries, saunas and nightlife spots. It's also my insider tip as the best place to go to drink in an uninterrupted sunset view over the Baltic Sea.

if you go

The flights
Fly direct to Kutaisi with Flydubai from Dh925 return, including taxes. The flight takes 3.5 hours. From there, Svaneti is a four-hour drive. The driving time from Tbilisi is eight hours.
The trip
The cost of the Svaneti trip is US$2,000 (Dh7,345) for 10 days, including food, guiding, accommodation and transfers from and to ­Tbilisi or Kutaisi. This summer the TCT is also offering a 5-day hike in Armenia for $1,200 (Dh4,407) per person. For further information, visit www.transcaucasiantrail.org/en/hike/

The five pillars of Islam
About Karol Nawrocki

• Supports military aid for Ukraine, unlike other eurosceptic leaders, but he will oppose its membership in western alliances.

• A nationalist, his campaign slogan was Poland First. "Let's help others, but let's take care of our own citizens first," he said on social media in April.

• Cultivates tough-guy image, posting videos of himself at shooting ranges and in boxing rings.

• Met Donald Trump at the White House and received his backing.

SPECS
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Law%2041.9.4%20of%20men%E2%80%99s%20T20I%20playing%20conditions
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Common OCD symptoms and how they manifest

Checking: the obsession or thoughts focus on some harm coming from things not being as they should, which usually centre around the theme of safety. For example, the obsession is “the building will burn down”, therefore the compulsion is checking that the oven is switched off.

Contamination: the obsession is focused on the presence of germs, dirt or harmful bacteria and how this will impact the person and/or their loved ones. For example, the obsession is “the floor is dirty; me and my family will get sick and die”, the compulsion is repetitive cleaning.

Orderliness: the obsession is a fear of sitting with uncomfortable feelings, or to prevent harm coming to oneself or others. Objectively there appears to be no logical link between the obsession and compulsion. For example,” I won’t feel right if the jars aren’t lined up” or “harm will come to my family if I don’t line up all the jars”, so the compulsion is therefore lining up the jars.

Intrusive thoughts: the intrusive thought is usually highly distressing and repetitive. Common examples may include thoughts of perpetrating violence towards others, harming others, or questions over one’s character or deeds, usually in conflict with the person’s true values. An example would be: “I think I might hurt my family”, which in turn leads to the compulsion of avoiding social gatherings.

Hoarding: the intrusive thought is the overvaluing of objects or possessions, while the compulsion is stashing or hoarding these items and refusing to let them go. For example, “this newspaper may come in useful one day”, therefore, the compulsion is hoarding newspapers instead of discarding them the next day.

Source: Dr Robert Chandler, clinical psychologist at Lighthouse Arabia

History's medical milestones

1799 - First small pox vaccine administered

1846 - First public demonstration of anaesthesia in surgery

1861 - Louis Pasteur published his germ theory which proved that bacteria caused diseases

1895 - Discovery of x-rays

1923 - Heart valve surgery performed successfully for first time

1928 - Alexander Fleming discovers penicillin

1953 - Structure of DNA discovered

1952 - First organ transplant - a kidney - takes place 

1954 - Clinical trials of birth control pill

1979 - MRI, or magnetic resonance imaging, scanned used to diagnose illness and injury.

1998 - The first adult live-donor liver transplant is carried out

'Midnights'
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ICC Women's T20 World Cup Asia Qualifier 2025, Thailand

UAE fixtures
May 9, v Malaysia
May 10, v Qatar
May 13, v Malaysia
May 15, v Qatar
May 18 and 19, semi-finals
May 20, final

Previous men's records
  • 2:01:39: Eliud Kipchoge (KEN) on 16/9/19 in Berlin
  • 2:02:57: Dennis Kimetto (KEN) on 28/09/2014 in Berlin
  • 2:03:23: Wilson Kipsang (KEN) on 29/09/2013 in Berlin
  • 2:03:38: Patrick Makau (KEN) on 25/09/2011 in Berlin
  • 2:03:59: Haile Gebreselassie (ETH) on 28/09/2008 in Berlin
  • 2:04:26: Haile Gebreselassie (ETH) on 30/09/2007 in Berlin
  • 2:04:55: Paul Tergat (KEN) on 28/09/2003 in Berlin
  • 2:05:38: Khalid Khannouchi (USA) 14/04/2002 in London
  • 2:05:42: Khalid Khannouchi (USA) 24/10/1999 in Chicago
  • 2:06:05: Ronaldo da Costa (BRA) 20/09/1998 in Berlin
Updated: September 26, 2024, 10:04 AM`