With its towering gable roof and open air design, architecture enthusiasts walking into the lobby of Anantara Kalutara in Sri Lanka will immediately recognise the work of the country's most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa.
Bawa, who died in 2003, was one of the most famous Asian architects of his generation and helped to define Sri Lanka's modern landscape. Known as the father of Tropical Modernism, his projects span the length and breadth of the country, including the famed Sri Lankan Parliament Building.
Anantara Kalutara, on Sri Lanka's west coast, occupies a special place in Bawa's hallowed body of work. It was his final project, although he unfortunately did not live to see its completion in 2016. But Bawa's spirit is everywhere in this unique property, located on a stretch of land that's sandwiched between the Indian Ocean on one side and the Kalu Ganga river on the other.
Spread across 6.5 hectares, every room, suite and villa has been designed to take advantage of its beautiful secluded location – the hallmark of a celebrated architect known for blending his beautiful structures to the natural environment they are set in.
The National checked in to to see if its worth splurging on this luxurious tropical getaway with a rich architectural history.
The welcome
After a rain-soaked 90-minute drive from Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo, we are welcomed at the hotel reception and handed colourful garlands. A stunning ceremonial welcome begins, as six dancers dressed in full traditional gear and accompanied by a drummer guide us towards the main lobby.
I ignorantly assume the dance performance was a one-of, arranged for us as guests of the resort. But no, I soon found out it is repeated with every new guest arrival. Not only that, a similar ritual is performed before you leave, where staff tie sacred threads to each guest's wrist while a prayer for a safe onward journey is performed.
The neighbourhood
Once a thriving city for spice trading, remnants of Kalutara's colonial past can be seen everywhere, with structures of Portuguese, Dutch and British influences dotting the city.
While Anantara Kalutara is located to take full advantage of its gorgeous lagoon setting, the city's main market is a mere 15-minute drive away and the place to shop for local art and crafts plus varieties of Sri Lankan tea, including the famed Ceylon.
For history buffs, the Kalutara Bodhiya, a giant Bodhi or sacred fig tree that is believed to be connected to the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment, is also located about 15 minutes away. Built around it is the striking Kalutara Chaitya, a stupa or place for meditation, and its massive dome is visible from many parts of the city, including from the hotel. Inside, visitors can take time out to reflect or learn about Buddha's life through 74 murals painted in chronological order across the dome's inner walls.
Buzzing with worshippers on the day we visit, the Kalutara Bodhiya, the Kalutara Chaitya and the Kalutara Viharaya, an adjacent temple, are stark reminders that predominantly Buddhist Sri Lanka is a deeply spiritual country.
Those interested in architecture will not want to miss a trip to Lunuganga Estate, Bawa's country house, about an hour's drive from the hotel. A former rubber plantation, Bawa bought the 15-acre property before he became an architect, turning it into an experimental place where he honed his practice. Today, the estate stands as perfect introduction to his design philosophy, where man-made structures seamlessly blend with their natural surrounds, and where indoors and outdoors comfortably merge.
The room
There are 141 accommodation options at Anantara Kalutara, including rooms, suites and villas. I'm staying in a one-bedroom pool villa, a 235-square metre space that's good enough for three adults. Divided into three distinct sections, it includes a living area, a bedroom and an outdoor area where I have my own private swimming pool, a Jacuzzi tub and a sprawling sundeck.
Attached to the bedroom is a large walk-in wardrobe with plenty of storage space. From here, a door leads to an even larger bathroom, with a stand-alone bathtub and a wide countertop with double sinks, topped with a basket of toiletries. As a brand known as much for their spas as their resorts, Anantara does such products really well – and I am rather partial to their handmade soaps.
Walled off from the rest of the hotel, the villas don't offer views as such besides some lush greenery. But inside my own spacious little kingdom, there's plenty to indulge in.
The service
After the devastation wreaked by the Covid-19 pandemic on the hospitality industry followed by months of political turmoil, tourism-dependent Sri Lanka is slowly on the road to economic stability. The flawless service at Anantara Kalutara reflects this at every turn.
Everywhere I go, I'm greeted by attentive staff, whether popping out for a walk or trying to find my way to a restaurant. Due to its sheer size, and because it rained almost every day, I often need a buggy to take me around and as soon as I request it, a driver arrives almost immediately, no matter the time of day.
The scene
Thanks to its location, Anantara Kalutara is self-contained when it comes to activities for guests. From water sports to archery, rifle shooting and ziplining, there's a lot to do for all ages and groups. For those who like things a little slower paced, there's also a yoga and meditation pavilion. Two large outdoor pools, including one for adults only, allow for relaxing afternoons by the beach and lagoon.
Adventurous travellers will enjoy the Fishing Guru Experience where you set off on a traditional wooden boat, learn local angling techniques and then later hand over your catch for the resort's chefs to prepare to your liking.
The Anantara Spa is a must-visit for the ultimate relaxation. The spa also offers a Slumber Guru Experience in your room where a therapist delivers a sleep-inducing massage then prepares a luxurious bath leaving you to enjoy the ultimate restful soak.
The food
There are a number of dining options including Olu, the all-day dining restaurant where lavish buffets await at each meal. Spice Traders, my personal favourite, is where diners get their pick of the best Indian, Thai and Chinese cuisines, while Acquolina specialises in Italian food. There's also a sports bar and lounge located just above the reception where guests can play pool, watch live sporting matches or just relax and take in the tropical breeze and views.
For those looking for something even more special, there's a Dining by Design service where staff will set up an exclusive dining experience with a view, catered by a own private chef.
Highs and lows
Anantara Kalutara is hard to fault. With top-notch service, well thought-out facilities that take full advantage of its location and a setting that is hard to match anywhere, it's a getaway that's tailored to near perfection.
There is, however, a road that cuts through the middle of the resort, which leads to Avani Kalutara, a sister resort brand of Anantara. This means various forms of transportations, including tuk-tuks, are jetting across the resort heading to the other property. By no means a heavy traffic situation, but I often came across a few tuk-tuk drivers gathering near my villa, offering their driving services. An unnecessary albeit minor bother.
The insider tip
This one is for architecture geeks. Seek out the Geoffrey Bawa Library at the Anantara Kalutara. Modelled on Bawa's personal study, furnishings in the library were either designed or owned by him. The space, which also features many of his architectural sketches and plans, was put together in his style and is stocked with books about him as well as on his many distinguished works.
The verdict
Anantara Kalutara is the great escape you're looking for with everything you'd need for a blissful retreat all within its gates. Not to mention all that architectural wonder to soak in.
The bottom line
Nightly room rates start at approximately Dh760, including breakfast. Check-in time is from 3pm and checkout time is at noon.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future.
The five pillars of Islam
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The flights
Emirates flies direct from Dubai to Seattle from Dh6,755 return in economy and Dh24,775 in business class.
The cruise
UnCruise Adventures offers a variety of small-ship cruises in Alaska and around the world. A 14-day Alaska’s Inside Passage and San Juans Cruise from Seattle to Juneau or reverse costs from $4,695 (Dh17,246), including accommodation, food and most activities. Trips in 2019 start in April and run until September.
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
The bio
His favourite book - 1984 by George Orwell
His favourite quote - 'If you think education is expensive, try ignorance' by Derek Bok, Former President of Harvard
Favourite place to travel to - Peloponnese, Southern Greece
Favourite movie - The Last Emperor
Favourite personality from history - Alexander the Great
Role Model - My father, Yiannis Davos
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
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The five pillars of Islam
Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
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Zayed Sustainability Prize
Where to donate in the UAE
The Emirates Charity Portal
You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.
The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments
The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.
Al Noor Special Needs Centre
You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.
Beit Al Khair Society
Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.
Dar Al Ber Society
Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.
Dubai Cares
Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.
Emirates Airline Foundation
Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.
Emirates Red Crescent
On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.
Gulf for Good
Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.
Noor Dubai Foundation
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UAE v Gibraltar
What: International friendly
When: 7pm kick off
Where: Rugby Park, Dubai Sports City
Admission: Free
Online: The match will be broadcast live on Dubai Exiles’ Facebook page
UAE squad: Lucas Waddington (Dubai Exiles), Gio Fourie (Exiles), Craig Nutt (Abu Dhabi Harlequins), Phil Brady (Harlequins), Daniel Perry (Dubai Hurricanes), Esekaia Dranibota (Harlequins), Matt Mills (Exiles), Jaen Botes (Exiles), Kristian Stinson (Exiles), Murray Reason (Abu Dhabi Saracens), Dave Knight (Hurricanes), Ross Samson (Jebel Ali Dragons), DuRandt Gerber (Exiles), Saki Naisau (Dragons), Andrew Powell (Hurricanes), Emosi Vacanau (Harlequins), Niko Volavola (Dragons), Matt Richards (Dragons), Luke Stevenson (Harlequins), Josh Ives (Dubai Sports City Eagles), Sean Stevens (Saracens), Thinus Steyn (Exiles)
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Heavily-sugared soft drinks slip through the tax net
Some popular drinks with high levels of sugar and caffeine have slipped through the fizz drink tax loophole, as they are not carbonated or classed as an energy drink.
Arizona Iced Tea with lemon is one of those beverages, with one 240 millilitre serving offering up 23 grams of sugar - about six teaspoons.
A 680ml can of Arizona Iced Tea costs just Dh6.
Most sports drinks sold in supermarkets were found to contain, on average, five teaspoons of sugar in a 500ml bottle.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
MATCH INFO
Liverpool v Manchester City, Sunday, 8.30pm UAE
The specs
Engine: four-litre V6 and 3.5-litre V6 twin-turbo
Transmission: six-speed and 10-speed
Power: 271 and 409 horsepower
Torque: 385 and 650Nm
Price: from Dh229,900 to Dh355,000
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
About Karol Nawrocki
• Supports military aid for Ukraine, unlike other eurosceptic leaders, but he will oppose its membership in western alliances.
• A nationalist, his campaign slogan was Poland First. "Let's help others, but let's take care of our own citizens first," he said on social media in April.
• Cultivates tough-guy image, posting videos of himself at shooting ranges and in boxing rings.
• Met Donald Trump at the White House and received his backing.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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What are the main cyber security threats?
Cyber crime - This includes fraud, impersonation, scams and deepfake technology, tactics that are increasingly targeting infrastructure and exploiting human vulnerabilities.
Cyber terrorism - Social media platforms are used to spread radical ideologies, misinformation and disinformation, often with the aim of disrupting critical infrastructure such as power grids.
Cyber warfare - Shaped by geopolitical tension, hostile actors seek to infiltrate and compromise national infrastructure, using one country’s systems as a springboard to launch attacks on others.
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Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman
Director: Jesse Armstrong
Rating: 3.5/5
