“In order for it to have the proper taste, it must be made here in Varanasi’s old city.” As the shop owner spoke, I peered through the glass-fronted doors of the wooden cabinet at a dozen trays filled with tempting sweets.
“Once,” he continued, “a very rich man asked if I could come to his home to make sweets for a wedding celebration. I knew my sweets wouldn’t taste the same if I made them elsewhere, so I told him I would do it, but only if he recreated all the ghats of Varanasi in his garden!”
At first glance, there's little to make this shop, Rasvanti Sweets, stand out from the numerous other sweet shops in Varanasi. In fact, if I hadn’t been told otherwise, I would have probably passed right by it. But my guide Ajay, a dapper elderly gentleman, had insisted that this was indeed the best sweet shop in Varanasi. In a city with such a sweet tooth, this is quite the claim.
The shop, which was really more of a busy kitchen with just a single wooden cabinet of sweets stuffed into the doorway, was buzzing with activity. To my right, a man was leaning over a giant wok stirring a batch of sweets that sizzled and popped in the boiling oil. In the darker recesses behind him, other people kneaded, pummelled and chopped while others stirred slow boiling vats of milk, the basis of so many Indian sweets.
“My father started this business when he was young,” the owner went on. “We only make a few different kinds of sweets and we’ve been using the same recipes for them ever since my father made the first ones.” He opened the door of the cabinet and gently picked up a delicate-looking triangular sweet which he handed to me.
“This is malai paan gilori. It’s our speciality.” While I popped the milky parcel, wrapped in edible silver leaf, into my mouth, he explained that it originated from Lucknow, but that they’d taken that version and given it a Varanasi twist.
One of the holiest places on Earth for Hindus, Varanasi in northern India attracts tens of thousands of religious devotees every year. By bathing in the River Ganges, which flows through the city, pilgrims believe that a lifetime of sins will be erased. By dying here, a Hindu is thought to achieve "moksha", meaning their soul is released from the endless cycle of rebirth.
Not only is the city holy, it’s also as old as they come. Legend has it that Varanasi was founded thousands of years ago by the Hindu god, Lord Shiva. It was, so the story goes, the first place where the divine light of Shiva pierced primordial darkness and brought light to the Earth. Archaeologists though, who have a less colourful take on history, say that the city was founded at least 3,000 years ago, which, even without the help of the gods, still makes it one of the oldest cities on the planet.
A city of taste
Varanasi though, is more than a city of spirituality. It is renowned across India for its superb street food. For a passing tourist though, finding the best street food in Varanasi is no easy task, as many places are discreet, often unsigned and frequently tucked toward the end of a dimly lit alleyway that travellers are unlikely to find without a little local help. Fortunately, I had local help. Ajay Pandey, from the Banaras Cultural Foundation, which works to preserve the heritage of Varanasi, had agreed to take me on a breakfast-time tour of some of his favourite places to eat.
The day had started hours earlier with an early morning chai. As anyone who has ever spent more than about 38 seconds in India will be able to tell you, it’s chai that makes India turn. A recent study concluded that about a billion cups of the drink are consumed every day across the country. So, when Ajay suggested we meet that morning at one particular old town shop, Lakshmi Chai, I was curious as to the reasons why he would have chosen that particular one out of the hundreds in Varanasi. “Firstly, you won’t get a better chai in the city and secondly, because the owner is quite a legend,” he replied.
Buried in an enclosed alleyway off the chaotic main street, Lakshmi Chai was as far removed from the bright, modern Instagram-friendly cafes that are taking over some Indian towns as you can get. Crowds of people surged in and out of the gloomy cellar-like interior. A man in a stained string vest flipped bread over an open flame while another slathered a white, creamy butter onto the toast and dished them out to hungry customers.
Oblivious to all that was taking place around him was the owner Ganesh. He was focused on the large vat of chai he was brewing. With all the skill of a chemistry professor, he mixed milk, sugar and tea leaves, stirred and boiled and then, as the chai reached its pinnacle of perfection, he poured. As he did, he told me that he makes about 200 litres of chai a day. “I’ve been making chai like this since I was four years old. Now I’m 52.”
Next, we set off in search of that Varanasi breakfast classic, gol kachori – a flour dough ball that is stuffed with spiced, mashed potato, peas, dal and spices, then served with a dollop of chutney and topped with a flourish of grated carrot and radish.
Ajay told me that there were a couple of places in the old city renowned for their gol kachori, but that his favourite was Neelu Kachori Bhandar. Open only in the morning, it would be a stretch to describe this century-old, family-run place as a restaurant. It’s quite literally only a doorway with just about enough room inside for the family to do the cooking while clients – such as Ajay and I - eat standing outside in the street.
Our next course was to be something a little sweeter. Finding it involved tracking down one particular man, Rada Krishna Dhandar. When we finally find him, on a noisy street corner, he’s stood under a brightly coloured parasol doling out little clay bowls each filled with a pale-yellow froth known as malaiyo or nimish to a mass of people impatient to tuck into this bubbly delight.
Unique to Varanasi and a handful of nearby towns and cities, malaiyo is churned milk mixed with saffron and sugar. Sounds simple enough, but for the key ingredient, the chef is reliant on Mother Nature. Malaiyo can only be made through the cooler winter months and even then, it’s only good if eaten early in the morning. And this is because the process of making it is reliant on morning dew (nimish).
“The churned milk is left out overnight to cool down and mix with the morning dew,” explained Ajay as he savoured a mouthful. “After around eight hours it’s rechurned and that’s when it takes on its soft yellow tinge.” The resulting foamy mix simply dissolves in the mouth with a light, almost vanilla ice-cream-like taste that can momentarily transport you far away from Varanasi's incessant hooting of vehicles.
Sighing happily, Ajay returned his clay pot to Dhandar. “To finish our breakfast, I think we need some sweets. And I know just the place,” he said as he led me down a whirl of narrow streets to meet a sweet maker who insisted that the secret to the taste was the city of Shiva itself.
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Israel Palestine on Swedish TV 1958-1989
Director: Goran Hugo Olsson
Rating: 5/5
The%20Witcher%20-%20season%20three
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EVarious%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EStars%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EHenry%20Cavill%2C%20Freya%20Allan%2C%20Anya%20Chalotra%3Cstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3E%0D%3Cbr%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
UAE tour of Zimbabwe
All matches in Bulawayo
Friday, Sept 26 – UAE won by 36 runs
Sunday, Sept 28 – Second ODI
Tuesday, Sept 30 – Third ODI
Thursday, Oct 2 – Fourth ODI
Sunday, Oct 5 – First T20I
Monday, Oct 6 – Second T20I
Biog
Age: 50
Known as the UAE’s strongest man
Favourite dish: “Everything and sea food”
Hobbies: Drawing, basketball and poetry
Favourite car: Any classic car
Favourite superhero: The Hulk original
Pupils in Abu Dhabi are learning the importance of being active, eating well and leading a healthy lifestyle now and throughout adulthood, thanks to a newly launched programme 'Healthy Lifestyle'.
As part of the Healthy Lifestyle programme, specially trained coaches from City Football Schools, along with Healthpoint physicians have visited schools throughout Abu Dhabi to give fun and interactive lessons on working out regularly, making the right food choices, getting enough sleep and staying hydrated, just like their favourite footballers.
Organised by Manchester City FC and Healthpoint, Manchester City FC’s regional healthcare partner and part of Mubadala’s healthcare network, the ‘Healthy Lifestyle’ programme will visit 15 schools, meeting around 1,000 youngsters over the next five months.
Designed to give pupils all the information they need to improve their diet and fitness habits at home, at school and as they grow up, coaches from City Football Schools will work alongside teachers to lead the youngsters through a series of fun, creative and educational classes as well as activities, including playing football and other games.
Dr Mai Ahmed Al Jaber, head of public health at Healthpoint, said: “The programme has different aspects - diet, exercise, sleep and mental well-being. By having a focus on each of those and delivering information in a way that children can absorb easily it can help to address childhood obesity."
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
UAE cricketers abroad
Sid Jhurani is not the first cricketer from the UAE to go to the UK to try his luck.
Rameez Shahzad Played alongside Ben Stokes and Liam Plunkett in Durham while he was studying there. He also played club cricket as an overseas professional, but his time in the UK stunted his UAE career. The batsman went a decade without playing for the national team.
Yodhin Punja The seam bowler was named in the UAE’s extended World Cup squad in 2015 despite being just 15 at the time. He made his senior UAE debut aged 16, and subsequently took up a scholarship at Claremont High School in the south of England.
It
Director: Andres Muschietti
Starring: Bill Skarsgard, Jaeden Lieberher, Sophia Lillis, Chosen Jacobs, Jeremy Ray Taylor
Three stars
MATCH INFO
FA Cup fifth round
Chelsea v Manchester United, Monday, 11.30pm (UAE), BeIN Sports
info-box
COMPANY PROFILE
Company name: Happy Tenant
Started: January 2019
Co-founders: Joe Moufarrej and Umar Rana
Based: Dubai
Sector: Technology, real-estate
Initial investment: Dh2.5 million
Investors: Self-funded
Total customers: 4,000
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Tips for job-seekers
- Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
- Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.
David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East
Conservative MPs who have publicly revealed sending letters of no confidence
- Steve Baker
- Peter Bone
- Ben Bradley
- Andrew Bridgen
- Maria Caulfield
- Simon Clarke
- Philip Davies
- Nadine Dorries
- James Duddridge
- Mark Francois
- Chris Green
- Adam Holloway
- Andrea Jenkyns
- Anne-Marie Morris
- Sheryll Murray
- Jacob Rees-Mogg
- Laurence Robertson
- Lee Rowley
- Henry Smith
- Martin Vickers
- John Whittingdale
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The Case For Trump
By Victor Davis Hanson
Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill
Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The National in Davos
We are bringing you the inside story from the World Economic Forum's Annual Meeting in Davos, a gathering of hundreds of world leaders, top executives and billionaires.
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One in nine do not have enough to eat
Created in 1961, the World Food Programme is pledged to fight hunger worldwide as well as providing emergency food assistance in a crisis.
One of the organisation’s goals is the Zero Hunger Pledge, adopted by the international community in 2015 as one of the 17 Sustainable Goals for Sustainable Development, to end world hunger by 2030.
The WFP, a branch of the United Nations, is funded by voluntary donations from governments, businesses and private donations.
Almost two thirds of its operations currently take place in conflict zones, where it is calculated that people are more than three times likely to suffer from malnutrition than in peaceful countries.
It is currently estimated that one in nine people globally do not have enough to eat.
On any one day, the WFP estimates that it has 5,000 lorries, 20 ships and 70 aircraft on the move.
Outside emergencies, the WFP provides school meals to up to 25 million children in 63 countries, while working with communities to improve nutrition. Where possible, it buys supplies from developing countries to cut down transport cost and boost local economies.
The specs
Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
Transmission: seven-speed
Power: 620bhp
Torque: 760Nm
Price: Dh898,000
On sale: now
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Race 3
Produced: Salman Khan Films and Tips Films
Director: Remo D’Souza
Cast: Salman Khan, Anil Kapoor, Jacqueline Fernandez, Bobby Deol, Daisy Shah, Saqib Salem
Rating: 2.5 stars
What are the influencer academy modules?
- Mastery of audio-visual content creation.
- Cinematography, shots and movement.
- All aspects of post-production.
- Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
- Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
- Tourism industry knowledge.
- Professional ethics.
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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South Africa World Cup squad
South Africa: Faf du Plessis (c), Hashim Amla, Quinton de Kock (w), JP Duminy, Imran Tahir, Aiden Markram, David Miller, Lungi Ngidi, Anrich Nortje, Andile Phehlukwayo, Dwaine Pretorius, Kagiso Rabada, Tabraiz Shamsi, Dale Steyn, Rassie van der Dussen.
The years Ramadan fell in May
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