The Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Philippines. Unsplash / Maksim Grigorev
The Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Philippines. Unsplash / Maksim Grigorev
The Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Philippines. Unsplash / Maksim Grigorev
The Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Philippines. Unsplash / Maksim Grigorev

Chocolate Hills and tiny tarsiers: Why Bohol should be on every Philippines bucket list


Hayley Kadrou
  • English
  • Arabic

It's not even 10am, and my watch has already buzzed to let me know I've completed my 10,000 daily steps, which strikes me as slightly odd, considering I've spent the best part of the morning in the back seat of a mini tour bus, motioning towards one of the Philippines's postcard landmarks. Driving around Bohol is a bumpy ride, but one well worth the dubious fitness stats as we arrive at the Chocolate Hills.

Here, the real steps kick in as we climb the 200-ish stairs to the viewing point (hiking the hills is not permitted) over about 1,776 grass-covered limestone mounds. A select few are in the transitional phase from their lush green in cooler months to their famous chocolatey-brown shade once sun-kissed by summer.

As I read the information plaque, I'm interrupted by a Filipino journalist who is on the same trip as me, and is also a first-time visitor to Bohol. He lets our group in on the legend of two feuding giants who, one rainy day, threw fistfuls of mud at each other from the north and south edges of the land, leading to the creation of each hill. Not only is it a much more captivating story than the official information, it serves as a moment that sets the tone for what will be our whistle-stop exploration of Bohol. Mysticism prevails as we visit ancient caves and spot tiny primates, stroll beautiful beaches, visit historic churches and shop at bustling markets – all in just two days and three nights.

Here's why Bohol (both an island and the name of the wider province which includes a further 75 smaller islands) should be on your island-hopping list, and how to do it right if you only have 48 hours.

Day 1: Sweet like chocolate scenery

After our early morning trip to the Chocolate Hills, we drive another 45 minutes to get a glimpse at another of the island's most famed attractions – tarsiers. At Bohol Enchanted Zoological and Botanical Garden, we make our way through gardens filled with other animals and mythological tales depicted via statues to set sight on these tiny primates – one of the smallest in the world measuring between only three and five inches.

We tread silently to get a glimpse of the endangered species, which we're told are extremely sensitive. Turns out, it's my own stress levels that creep up as other visitors aren't so considerate of the silence rule. Native to the island, tarsiers are a privilege to see up close, even if I left both awed and uneased. I later learn of the sanctuary's efforts across the province, which might be a preferred way for travellers to see these lemur-like cuties if you're zoo-avoidant. With only 5,000 to 10,000 left in the wild, they are protected throughout the country, with conservation efforts such as the Philippine Tarsier Foundation providing a peaceful 8.4-hectare forested sanctuary in Bohol.

The Philippine tarsier population is protected in Bohol. Hayley Kadrou / The National
The Philippine tarsier population is protected in Bohol. Hayley Kadrou / The National

Back on the road, we drive past traditional tin-roof houses as mopeds zip in front of us. On the streets, stray dogs roam around and goats tied to fences graze on front-garden grass. We pass a through Bilar Man-Made Forest – the result of a 50-year-old restoration project lining the island with white and red mahogany trees – and soon make it to Loboc River.

Cruising along the waterway here is a memory-in-the-making moment. The water is pristine and surrounding vegetation is more akin to a social media reel than real life. A performer covers The Rivers of Babylon as cruisers sing along, children dance, and families tuck into a buffet of traditional food, with everything from barbecued meats to tofu curry. Sweet-toothed, I overindulge in suman – sweet rice cooked in coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf.

After an obligatory stop at a souvenir shop, we head back to Amorita Resort to recuperate, but not before a stroll along Alona Beach – a scenic spot for sunbathing, snorkelling and late-night karaoke sessions.

Day 2: Bohol's caves of wonders

Rising to a rainy day, there's still a buzz in the air as we peer around Panglao Public Market. Feeling for ripe local mangoes and glancing over the piles of hanging kitchen and bathroom staples, I discover banana ketchup; a still-loved recipe and relic of the Second World War that was created by food technologist Maria Y Orosa in 1942, using the tropical fruit in place of tomatoes when access to the tangy fruit was limited across the country.

On today's agenda is a visit to St Augustine Parish Church, where a newer roof and facade sit upon an older stone structure, built beside ruins from a previous house of worship, all hinting at this house of worship's rocky past. Construction began in 1894, but was halted until 1912 due to the Philippine Revolution, which opposed colonial Spanish rule.

The church and its grounds serve as something of a snapshot of the history of the community, culture and country at large. Today, the operational church is a popular spot for tourists of all faiths owing to the art houses within its walls, particularly the striking ceiling mural that depicts Roman Catholic sacraments. The Panglao Watchtower is also here, constructed in 1851, and the tallest of its kind in the country.

From here, we make a quick stop at the Nova Shells Museum, a small building that houses one of the world's largest seashell collections. While it's fascinating to glimpse the South Sea pearl that features on the reverse of the 1,000 peso note, and was declared the nation's gemstone in 1996, it's a stop you can skip unless you have a particular penchant for collecting or viewing shells.

Inside Hinagdanan Cave in Panglao, Bohol. Alamy
Inside Hinagdanan Cave in Panglao, Bohol. Alamy

The same can't be said for our next activity – venturing underground to explore Hinagdanan Cave, another spot that comes with its share of lore. Our guide escorts us inside the 100-metre-long cave, telling us how it was discovered by a local farmer, and was also a hiding place for locals evading the Japanese Imperial army during the Second World War – remnants of this use are visible in the modern-day charcoal cave art.

The cave featured in the 1973 action movie Esteban, which propelled it onto the radar of tourists. So influential was the film starring Filipino actors Fernando Poe Jr and Alona Alegre, that the aforementioned Alona Beach is named after the leading lady. Mesmerising as these tidbits are, the cave evokes wonder all by itself thanks to its limestone cavern and warm-water lagoon, where more prepared visitors dive into the waters, while we stick to soaking in the backstory.

After a late lunch overlooking the sea at Bohol Bee Farm restaurant, famed for its ice cream which you'll see sold across the island, we make it back to the resort in time to try a treatment at the Sea Tree Spa before heading to dinner at nearby Bamboo Place. Our group tucks into Filipino classics such as yang chow, bicol express and mango salad, served alongside shisha and live music, and it's the perfect setting for our final evening, and a recap on two days of exploration as we muse over where in the Philippines we'd like to island hop along to next.

Cebu Pacific flies daily from Dubai to Manila. From there, it's a 90-minute flight between Manila and Panglao International Airport, with four flights per day

Red flags
  • Promises of high, fixed or 'guaranteed' returns.
  • Unregulated structured products or complex investments often used to bypass traditional safeguards.
  • Lack of clear information, vague language, no access to audited financials.
  • Overseas companies targeting investors in other jurisdictions - this can make legal recovery difficult.
  • Hard-selling tactics - creating urgency, offering 'exclusive' deals.

Courtesy: Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Astra%20Tech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EMarch%202022%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDubai%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAbdallah%20Abu%20Sheikh%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20technology%20investment%20and%20development%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%20size%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%24500m%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
What are the influencer academy modules?
  1. Mastery of audio-visual content creation. 
  2. Cinematography, shots and movement.
  3. All aspects of post-production.
  4. Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
  5. Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
  6. Tourism industry knowledge.
  7. Professional ethics.
ABU%20DHABI'S%20KEY%20TOURISM%20GOALS%3A%20BY%20THE%20NUMBERS
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DUBAI%20BLING%3A%20EPISODE%201
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BOSH!'s pantry essentials

Nutritional yeast

This is Firth's pick and an ingredient he says, "gives you an instant cheesy flavour". He advises making your own cream cheese with it or simply using it to whip up a mac and cheese or wholesome lasagne. It's available in organic and specialist grocery stores across the UAE.

Seeds

"We've got a big jar of mixed seeds in our kitchen," Theasby explains. "That's what you use to make a bolognese or pie or salad: just grab a handful of seeds and sprinkle them over the top. It's a really good way to make sure you're getting your omegas."

Umami flavours

"I could say soya sauce, but I'll say all umami-makers and have them in the same batch," says Firth. He suggests having items such as Marmite, balsamic vinegar and other general, dark, umami-tasting products in your cupboard "to make your bolognese a little bit more 'umptious'".

Onions and garlic

"If you've got them, you can cook basically anything from that base," says Theasby. "These ingredients are so prevalent in every world cuisine and if you've got them in your cupboard, then you know you've got the foundation of a really nice meal."

Your grain of choice

Whether rice, quinoa, pasta or buckwheat, Firth advises always having a stock of your favourite grains in the cupboard. "That you, you have an instant meal and all you have to do is just chuck a bit of veg in."

EA Sports FC 26

Publisher: EA Sports

Consoles: PC, PlayStation 4/5, Xbox Series X/S

Rating: 3/5

Scores

Bournemouth 0-4 Liverpool
Arsenal 1-0 Huddersfield Town
Burnley 1-0 Brighton
Manchester United 4-1 Fulham
West Ham 3-2 Crystal Palace

Saturday fixtures:
Chelsea v Manchester City, 9.30pm (UAE)
Leicester City v Tottenham Hotspur, 11.45pm (UAE)

When Umm Kulthum performed in Abu Dhabi

  

 

 

 

Known as The Lady of Arabic Song, Umm Kulthum performed in Abu Dhabi on November 28, 1971, as part of celebrations for the fifth anniversary of the accession of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan as Ruler of Abu Dhabi. A concert hall was constructed for the event on land that is now Al Nahyan Stadium, behind Al Wahda Mall. The audience were treated to many of Kulthum's most well-known songs as part of the sold-out show, including Aghadan Alqak and Enta Omri.

 
The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

UAE squad

Esha Oza (captain), Al Maseera Jahangir, Emily Thomas, Heena Hotchandani, Indhuja Nandakumar, Katie Thompson, Lavanya Keny, Mehak Thakur, Michelle Botha, Rinitha Rajith, Samaira Dharnidharka, Siya Gokhale, Sashikala Silva, Suraksha Kotte, Theertha Satish (wicketkeeper) Udeni Kuruppuarachchige, Vaishnave Mahesh.

UAE tour of Zimbabwe

All matches in Bulawayo
Friday, Sept 26 – First ODI
Sunday, Sept 28 – Second ODI
Tuesday, Sept 30 – Third ODI
Thursday, Oct 2 – Fourth ODI
Sunday, Oct 5 – First T20I
Monday, Oct 6 – Second T20I

Countries offering golden visas

UK
Innovator Founder Visa is aimed at those who can demonstrate relevant experience in business and sufficient investment funds to set up and scale up a new business in the UK. It offers permanent residence after three years.

Germany
Investing or establishing a business in Germany offers you a residence permit, which eventually leads to citizenship. The investment must meet an economic need and you have to have lived in Germany for five years to become a citizen.

Italy
The scheme is designed for foreign investors committed to making a significant contribution to the economy. Requires a minimum investment of €250,000 which can rise to €2 million.

Switzerland
Residence Programme offers residence to applicants and their families through economic contributions. The applicant must agree to pay an annual lump sum in tax.

Canada
Start-Up Visa Programme allows foreign entrepreneurs the opportunity to create a business in Canada and apply for permanent residence. 

Top 5 concerns globally:

1. Unemployment

2. Spread of infectious diseases

3. Fiscal crises

4. Cyber attacks

5. Profound social instability

Top 5 concerns in the Mena region

1. Energy price shock

2. Fiscal crises

3. Spread of infectious diseases

4. Unmanageable inflation

5. Cyber attacks

Source: World Economic Foundation

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
It Was Just an Accident

Director: Jafar Panahi

Stars: Vahid Mobasseri, Mariam Afshari, Ebrahim Azizi, Hadis Pakbaten, Majid Panahi, Mohamad Ali Elyasmehr

Rating: 4/5

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201.5-litre%204-cylinder%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ECVT%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E119bhp%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E145Nm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDh%2C89%2C900%20(%2424%2C230)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Enow%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
About Housecall

Date started: July 2020

Founders: Omar and Humaid Alzaabi

Based: Abu Dhabi

Sector: HealthTech

# of staff: 10

Funding to date: Self-funded

BACK%20TO%20ALEXANDRIA
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ETamer%20Ruggli%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENadine%20Labaki%2C%20Fanny%20Ardant%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Part three: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
Rating: 4/5
BMW M5 specs

Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor

Power: 727hp

Torque: 1,000Nm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 10.6L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh650,000

WHAT IS GRAPHENE?

It was discovered in 2004, when Russian-born Manchester scientists Andrei Geim and Kostya Novoselov were experimenting with sticky tape and graphite, the material used as lead in pencils.

Placing the tape on the graphite and peeling it, they managed to rip off thin flakes of carbon. In the beginning they got flakes consisting of many layers of graphene. But when they repeated the process many times, the flakes got thinner.

By separating the graphite fragments repeatedly, they managed to create flakes that were just one atom thick. Their experiment led to graphene being isolated for the very first time.

In 2010, Geim and Novoselov were awarded the Nobel Prize for Physics. 

SPEC SHEET

Display: 6.8" edge quad-HD  dynamic Amoled 2X, Infinity-O, 3088 x 1440, 500ppi, HDR10 , 120Hz

Processor: 4nm Snapdragon 8 Gen 1/Exynos 2200, 8-core

Memory: 8/12GB RAM

Storage: 128/256/512GB/1TB

Platform: Android 12

Main camera: quad 12MP ultra-wide f/2.2, 108MP wide f/1.8, 10MP telephoto f/4.9, 10MP telephoto 2.4; Space Zoom up to 100x, auto HDR, expert RAW

Video: 8K@24fps, 4K@60fps, full-HD@60fps, HD@30fps, super slo-mo@960fps

Front camera: 40MP f/2.2

Battery: 5000mAh, fast wireless charging 2.0 Wireless PowerShare

Connectivity: 5G, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 5.2, NFC

I/O: USB-C

SIM: single nano, or nano and SIM, nano and nano, eSIM/nano and nano

Colours: burgundy, green, phantom black, phantom white, graphite, sky blue, red

Price: Dh4,699 for 128GB, Dh5,099 for 256GB, Dh5,499 for 512GB; 1TB unavailable in the UAE

U19 World Cup in South Africa

Group A: India, Japan, New Zealand, Sri Lanka

Group B: Australia, England, Nigeria, West Indies

Group C: Bangladesh, Pakistan, Scotland, Zimbabwe

Group D: Afghanistan, Canada, South Africa, UAE

UAE fixtures

Saturday, January 18, v Canada

Wednesday, January 22, v Afghanistan

Saturday, January 25, v South Africa

UAE squad

Aryan Lakra (captain), Vriitya Aravind, Deshan Chethyia, Mohammed Farazuddin, Jonathan Figy, Osama Hassan, Karthik Meiyappan, Rishabh Mukherjee, Ali Naseer, Wasi Shah, Alishan Sharafu, Sanchit Sharma, Kai Smith, Akasha Tahir, Ansh Tandon

 

 

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Updated: August 15, 2024, 2:20 PM`