My romantic westernised impressions of Japan began at an early age. I grew up watching movies like Seven Samurai and Ran by director Akira Kurosawa. It took me months – nay, almost a year – to read through 1,312 pages of epic historical fiction in Shogun by James Clavell, but I enjoyed every second of it, and I have since spent many a day dreaming about walking the ancient routes of feudal Japan during the reign of the shogun and samurai.
I was eager to see the real thing so when I spotted a tour called Shoguns and Samurai, it sounded like it had been crafted just for me, and I instantly signed up. The 14-day trip would cover all the destinations that I was keen to visit in Central Japan – including Tokyo, Kyoto and Yamanouchi – and also take us hiking through a sector of the Nakasendo Trail, a mountain route that connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period.
A few days in Tokyo sets the tone for my journey, which is operated by Oku Japan – a tour operator that specialises in off-the-beaten-path tours. Known as Edo for more than two centuries during the feudal rule of Japan's shogunate, the city was renamed Tokyo in 1868 when the emperor claimed imperial control.
Exploring by subway, my tour group ventures to parts old and new, led by our knowledgeable guide Yoko. At Hama-riku Gardens, once the former retreat of the shogunate and imperial family, I marvel at traditional gardens, seawater ponds and a lovely traditional teahouse where guests can partake in a delicate tea service in the heart of the city. Surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers, akin to sentries guarding the precious green space, the contrast between past and present is striking.
Very quickly I learn that each day on the tour will be busy and I'm glad I packed my most comfortable walking shoes. Sightseeing includes visits to Nihonbashi (the "Japan Bridge") considered the zero marker point for all of Japan’s main roads since the Edo period, and the impressive Grand Meiji Shrine near the Harajuku district, famed for its quirky fashion and avant-garde architecture.
Public transport is the order of the trip. In addition to the subway, we travel on bullet trains, public buses and even a cable car, which gives me a real sense of seeing the destination as the locals do. There is plenty of hiking and walking too, which gives me good reason to indulge guilt-free in traditional snacks in each village we pass as well as enjoying delicious kaiseki dinners – a centuries-old dining tradition comprising multiple courses and seasonal ingredients.
Sleeping in a ryokan
In the village of Yudanaka in the Nagano prefecture, it is time to experience my first stay in a ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn. During the Edo period, ryokans were frequented by travelling feudal lords and samurais. They feature Japanese-style tatami (straw-mat) floors and, each evening, staff prepare futons for sleeping. I am told only to walk on the tatami floors in socks or with bare feet – a sign of respect for the material's cultural significance. Comfy slippers are provided to use in the rest of the ryokan.
Each room has a yukata (a casual kimono) for guests to wear during their stay. Instead of western clothes, my group is encouraged to wear the ankle-length garment to dinner, and it is fun to see everyone adorned in the colourful robes after we master the art of wearing it.
“You place the left fold of the robe over the right of the chest,” instructs our guide Yoko. As a way to recall the “left over right” technique, she grins and offers the tip, “Just remember this, ‘leftover rice’.” The obi (sash) must then be tied around the waist.
Hot springs and snow monkeys
In Yudanaka, I am also introduced to the Japanese bathing concept of Onsen. Communal bathing is new to me, and soaking in a hot steaming pool of mineral water with naked strangers takes a bit of getting used to. It helps that the Onsen baths are divided into separate male and female sections.
The custom of bathing in hot springs has been part of Japanese culture for centuries, though. With more than 3,000 hot springs across the country, Onsen used to be frequented by samurai and feudal lords to heal wounds and soothe aches and pains or take the chance to relax. After a short talk on bathing etiquette, emboldened, I let go of my shyness determined to benefit from this ancient ritual and sink into the rock pool. The naturally heated waters and peaceful setting is delightful, and it becomes a ritual I look forward to at each destination.
And it’s not only people who enjoy the Yudanaka hot springs.
Japanese macaques, also known as snow monkeys, live in the mountains above the springs and, each year, as the weather gets colder, they venture down to Jigokudani Yaen Koen to bathe in the open-air water. As we hike along a trail leading to the snow monkey park, our guide warns us not to get our hopes up as the primates' schedules aren't always reliable. But when we arrive, we are in luck – there are monkeys everywhere. We see big males, mothers, babies and juveniles bathing in the water, and our group is in awe.
On another day, I step back in time to Japan’s Edo-period via a tour of a stunning 16th-century Matsumoto shogunate castle. Another excursion leads me to discover temples and colourful shrines flanked by towering cedar, maples and golden-leaved ginkgo trees.
Retracing history
One of the great highlights of the trip is hiking a portion of the ancient Nakasendo Trail where our group stays overnight in the historic towns of Narai and Tsumago, two of the Edo-period post towns along the route. As we continue to travel deep into the interior of Central Japan, we visit Unesco World Heritage site Shirakawa-go and stay at a preserved Gassho-zukuri house – a wooden structure with a steep thatched grass roof, which makes for a unique lodging experience.
From there the charms of Kyoto beckon. An evening stroll leads to Sanjo-ohashi Bridge, the western end of the Nakasendo Trail. Afterwards, we venture to the Gion district for a coveted geiko (the regional term for geisha) sighting. The next day, a stroll through some of the city's famous gardens includes a stop at Kinkaku-ji, a glorious Golden Pavilion built in the 14th century by the Ashikaga Shogun.
Before heading back to Tokyo, there is time for one last experience. At the remote Mount Koya, set high in the mountains of the Kii peninsula, I have the chance to visit Kongobuji Temple, one of the region's most prominent sites.
Our group spends the night here, sleeping in shokubo, or pilgrims lodges, attached to the temple. The following morning, as I attend the Buddhist service at the temple – listening to the harmonious sounds of priests' readings and melodic chimes and taking in the heady scent of incense mixed with chilled mountain air – I savour the deep sense of gratitude I feel at experiencing so many of Japan’s unique wonders and having the chance to explore some of this ancient destination's age-old treasures at long last.
Oku Japan's 14-day guided Shoguns and Samurai tour of central Japan starts at $4,930 per person, based on two travellers sharing a room, www.okujapan.com
Zayed Sustainability Prize
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
The five pillars of Islam
The five pillars of Islam
1. Fasting
2. Prayer
3. Hajj
4. Shahada
5. Zakat
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Schedule:
Friday, January 12: Six fourball matches
Saturday, January 13: Six foursome (alternate shot) matches
Sunday, January 14: 12 singles
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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Important questions to consider
1. Where on the plane does my pet travel?
There are different types of travel available for pets:
- Manifest cargo
- Excess luggage in the hold
- Excess luggage in the cabin
Each option is safe. The feasibility of each option is based on the size and breed of your pet, the airline they are traveling on and country they are travelling to.
2. What is the difference between my pet traveling as manifest cargo or as excess luggage?
If traveling as manifest cargo, your pet is traveling in the front hold of the plane and can travel with or without you being on the same plane. The cost of your pets travel is based on volumetric weight, in other words, the size of their travel crate.
If traveling as excess luggage, your pet will be in the rear hold of the plane and must be traveling under the ticket of a human passenger. The cost of your pets travel is based on the actual (combined) weight of your pet in their crate.
3. What happens when my pet arrives in the country they are traveling to?
As soon as the flight arrives, your pet will be taken from the plane straight to the airport terminal.
If your pet is traveling as excess luggage, they will taken to the oversized luggage area in the arrival hall. Once you clear passport control, you will be able to collect them at the same time as your normal luggage. As you exit the airport via the ‘something to declare’ customs channel you will be asked to present your pets travel paperwork to the customs official and / or the vet on duty.
If your pet is traveling as manifest cargo, they will be taken to the Animal Reception Centre. There, their documentation will be reviewed by the staff of the ARC to ensure all is in order. At the same time, relevant customs formalities will be completed by staff based at the arriving airport.
4. How long does the travel paperwork and other travel preparations take?
This depends entirely on the location that your pet is traveling to. Your pet relocation compnay will provide you with an accurate timeline of how long the relevant preparations will take and at what point in the process the various steps must be taken.
In some cases they can get your pet ‘travel ready’ in a few days. In others it can be up to six months or more.
5. What vaccinations does my pet need to travel?
Regardless of where your pet is traveling, they will need certain vaccinations. The exact vaccinations they need are entirely dependent on the location they are traveling to. The one vaccination that is mandatory for every country your pet may travel to is a rabies vaccination.
Other vaccinations may also be necessary. These will be advised to you as relevant. In every situation, it is essential to keep your vaccinations current and to not miss a due date, even by one day. To do so could severely hinder your pets travel plans.
Source: Pawsome Pets UAE
SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20APPLE%20M3%20MACBOOK%20AIR%20(13%22)
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EProcessor%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Apple%20M3%2C%208-core%20CPU%2C%20up%20to%2010-core%20CPU%2C%2016-core%20Neural%20Engine%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDisplay%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2013.6-inch%20Liquid%20Retina%2C%202560%20x%201664%2C%20224ppi%2C%20500%20nits%2C%20True%20Tone%2C%20wide%20colour%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMemory%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%208%2F16%2F24GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStorage%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20256%2F512GB%20%2F%201%2F2TB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EI%2FO%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Thunderbolt%203%2FUSB-4%20(2)%2C%203.5mm%20audio%2C%20Touch%20ID%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EConnectivity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Wi-Fi%206E%2C%20Bluetooth%205.3%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBattery%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2052.6Wh%20lithium-polymer%2C%20up%20to%2018%20hours%2C%20MagSafe%20charging%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECamera%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201080p%20FaceTime%20HD%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EVideo%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Support%20for%20Apple%20ProRes%2C%20HDR%20with%20Dolby%20Vision%2C%20HDR10%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAudio%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204-speaker%20system%2C%20wide%20stereo%2C%20support%20for%20Dolby%20Atmos%2C%20Spatial%20Audio%20and%20dynamic%20head%20tracking%20(with%20AirPods)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EColours%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Midnight%2C%20silver%2C%20space%20grey%2C%20starlight%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIn%20the%20box%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20MacBook%20Air%2C%2030W%2F35W%20dual-port%2F70w%20power%20adapter%2C%20USB-C-to-MagSafe%20cable%2C%202%20Apple%20stickers%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20From%20Dh4%2C599%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
if you go
The flights
Fly direct to Kutaisi with Flydubai from Dh925 return, including taxes. The flight takes 3.5 hours. From there, Svaneti is a four-hour drive. The driving time from Tbilisi is eight hours.
The trip
The cost of the Svaneti trip is US$2,000 (Dh7,345) for 10 days, including food, guiding, accommodation and transfers from and to Tbilisi or Kutaisi. This summer the TCT is also offering a 5-day hike in Armenia for $1,200 (Dh4,407) per person. For further information, visit www.transcaucasiantrail.org/en/hike/
Company Profile
Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Revibe%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202022%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Hamza%20Iraqui%20and%20Abdessamad%20Ben%20Zakour%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Refurbished%20electronics%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunds%20raised%20so%20far%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%2410m%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFlat6Labs%2C%20Resonance%20and%20various%20others%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
MISSION: IMPOSSIBLE – FINAL RECKONING
Director: Christopher McQuarrie
Starring: Tom Cruise, Hayley Atwell, Simon Pegg
Rating: 4/5
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
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Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
The%20Witcher%20-%20season%20three
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Abu Dhabi card
5pm: Handicap (TB) Dh100,000 2,400m
5.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 2,200m
6pm: Abu Dhabi Fillies Classic Prestige (PA) Dh110,000 1,400m
6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Colts Classic Prestige (PA) Dh110,000 1,400m
7pm: Handicap (PA) Dh85,000 1,600m
7.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,600m
The National selections:
5pm: Valcartier
5.30pm: AF Taraha
6pm: Dhafra
6.30pm: Maqam
7pm: AF Mekhbat
7.30pm: Ezz Al Rawasi
New schools in Dubai
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
WWE Evolution results
- Trish Stratus and Lita beat Alicia Fox and Mickie James in a tag match
- Nia Jax won a battle royal, eliminating Ember Moon last to win
- Toni Storm beat Io Shirai to win the Mae Young Classic
- Natalya, Sasha Banks and Bayley beat The Riott Squad in a six-woman tag match
- Shayna Baszler won the NXT Women’s title by defeating Kairi Sane
- Becky Lynch retained the SmackDown Women’s Championship against Charlotte Flair in a Last Woman Standing match
- Ronda Rousey retained the Raw Women’s title by beating Nikki Bella
It Was Just an Accident
Director: Jafar Panahi
Stars: Vahid Mobasseri, Mariam Afshari, Ebrahim Azizi, Hadis Pakbaten, Majid Panahi, Mohamad Ali Elyasmehr
Rating: 4/5
RESULTS
ATP China Open
G Dimitrov (BUL x3) bt R Bautista Agut (ESP x5)
7-6, 4-6, 6-2
R Nadal (ESP x1) bt J Isner (USA x6)
6-4, 7-6
WTA China Open
S Halep (ROU x2) bt D Kasatkina (RUS)
6-2, 6-1
J Ostapenko (LAT x9) bt S Cirstea (ROU)
6-4, 6-4
ATP Japan Open
D Schwartzman (ARG x8) bt S Johnson (USA)
6-0, 7-5
D Goffin (BEL x4) bt R Gasquet (FRA)
7-5, 6-2
M Cilic (CRO x1) bt R Harrison (USA)
6-2, 6-0
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