As I walk through the dimly lit narrow lanes that crisscross the labyrinthine 11th-century Medina of Marrakesh, I could be travelling back in time. This bustling medieval Moroccan metropolis was once one of North Africa's main commercial hubs.
I pass metal workers delicately engraving complex patterns on copper lamps and teapots; aged artisans expertly stitching exotic babouche slippers; and a teenage apprentice belt-maker hammering supple leather that has come straight from the open-air tannery. Elsewhere, rug and textile weavers work to a rhythmic beat on wooden handlooms, inventing intricate patterns with colourful strands of silk and cotton, while dyers plunge thick cords of wool into bubbling multi-coloured cauldrons before theatrically hanging them from the roof to dry.
Here in the medina, genuine artisan skills are miraculously thriving, centuries-old traditions proudly maintained and passed on from generation to generation. While in many countries, high-quality, hand-crafted creations are increasingly threatened by mass-produced alternatives from factories in China and India or cheap fakes that copy everything from Murano glass to Lacoste T-shirts and Louis Vuitton handbags, the artisans of Marrakesh have discovered how to survive.
Their livelihood is guaranteed today quite simply by sustainable tourism; the daily flood of visitors streaming into the medina, ready to spend Moroccan dirhams on some of the world’s finest arts and crafts. And that constant demand has neither disappeared after the long Covid lockdown nor diminished following the recent earthquake that rocked, but fortunately did not seriously damage, the medina.
I begin by exploring Souk Semmarine, for centuries the main entrance into the medina’s maze where everyone plunges in from the chaotic Jemaa el-Fna square. Walking past stalls selling all manner of olives, fragrant spices and irresistible sticky sweets, I enter the opulent Palais de la Menara, where the family of Mustapha Zidane have been showcasing their handicrafts for 85 years.
As Zidane points out delicately carved furniture, vivid rugs, ornate mirrors and lamps, he tells me they work with an atelier of 50 artisans, alongside independent specialist craftsmen who have collaborated with the family for several generations. They specialise in one-off, made-to-order pieces and their main customers are foreign visitors.
"We have no problem selling our merchandise today," he tells me. "But we have to work hard to motivate the next generation of artisans to continue the traditions of their fathers. That means starting at 10 or 11 years of age and convincing them to concentrate on crafts like pottery, carpentry, metal work and painting, rather than their mobile phones and video games.”
Specialist souqs branch out from Semmarine. I suddenly find myself surrounded by scores of stores selling shoes, leather bags and belts. In the exotic Maison des Babouches, a hole-in-the-wall Aladdin’s cave, Aziz Souri pours me a scalding glass of mint tea while explaining how they make everything in leather, from bags to pouffes and shoes to traditional babouche slippers.
“What I love doing is creating fashionable shoes that tourists will want to buy and I lay awake at night dreaming of new ideas, materials and designs," he says with a smile. "I purchase my leather from tanners in the souq as well as recycled material, sometimes using the skilled specialists you see here in the store, as well as 15 artisans who work from home.
"Traditionally, Marrakshi artisans prefer to work undisturbed at home, and what is changing today is that instead of having their house and atelier here in the medina, many are moving out of the historical centre.”
Souri believes that the faithful local clientele will ensure that medina craftsmanship will always exist, but the extra money from tourists allows them to enjoy a better lifestyle.
I could not survive without the tourists and I love the chance to exchange with them directly about my weaving
Ayoub Banouna,
weaver
Craftspeople here are becoming increasingly sophisticated both in following international design trends and in using online sales methods to reach a global audience. Tour guide Younes Ajana has seen a big difference since the enforced Covid lockdown.
"Artisans were forced to stay at home and discovered that e-commerce lets them reach out to huge new potential markets rather than sitting in a cramped souq stall waiting all day for a tourist to pass by and bargain over the price of a pair of babouches,” he says.
I wander towards the edge of the medina into the more popular neighbourhoods of Taghazout and El Moukef, where locals choose the freshest sardines and shark steaks from pavement fishmongers, haggle with butchers and select aromatic bunches of fresh mint, parsley and coriander. Tourists today are becoming more adventurous and discovering daily life in these backstreets, and their presence is changing the attitudes of some young artisans.
Not far from the 16th-century Medersa Ben Youssef – an Islamic school – Ayoub Banouna starts weaving his graphic wool and cotton scarves in the early morning behind his loom and is still weaving come 8pm.
“I prefer to work like this for myself rather than to just produce and sell to tourist shops in the medina," he tells me. "The merchants would make me drop my prices, while selling to tourists directly here from my atelier means I valorise my weaving skills, keep my dignity and charge a fair price that gives me a living wage even if I work long hours.
"Of course, I could not survive without the tourists and I love the chance to exchange with them directly about my weaving rather than anonymously selling to a trader.”
Although it is only a few months since the earthquake that devastated villages high up in the Atlas Mountains, barely 75km from Marrakesh, the Moroccan authorities have done an incredible job of restoring almost all of the medina. And there is a tremendous spirit of solidarity among the Marrakshi artisans to help each other.
Khalid Bousfiha has been working as a specialist mosaic cutter since he was 10, but his rented workshop where he sold directly to tourists, was destroyed in the quake. Almost immediately after, a neighbour gave him a corner of his boutique to set up his tools and continue working. Fortunately, there is plenty of demand for his unique skills from both browsing tourists and Marrakesh locals who prefer to head for the soulful souq, rather than buy mass-produced goods in a characterless shopping mall.
Ziina users can donate to relief efforts in Beirut
Ziina users will be able to use the app to help relief efforts in Beirut, which has been left reeling after an August blast caused an estimated $15 billion in damage and left thousands homeless. Ziina has partnered with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees to raise money for the Lebanese capital, co-founder Faisal Toukan says. “As of October 1, the UNHCR has the first certified badge on Ziina and is automatically part of user's top friends' list during this campaign. Users can now donate any amount to the Beirut relief with two clicks. The money raised will go towards rebuilding houses for the families that were impacted by the explosion.”
DEADPOOL & WOLVERINE
Starring: Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, Emma Corrin
Director: Shawn Levy
Rating: 3/5
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Tonight's Chat on The National
Tonight's Chat is a series of online conversations on The National. The series features a diverse range of celebrities, politicians and business leaders from around the Arab world.
Tonight’s Chat host Ricardo Karam is a renowned author and broadcaster with a decades-long career in TV. He has previously interviewed Bill Gates, Carlos Ghosn, Andre Agassi and the late Zaha Hadid, among others. Karam is also the founder of Takreem.
Intellectually curious and thought-provoking, Tonight’s Chat moves the conversation forward.
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More on animal trafficking
Chef Nobu's advice for eating sushi
“One mistake people always make is adding extra wasabi. There is no need for this, because it should already be there between the rice and the fish.
“When eating nigiri, you must dip the fish – not the rice – in soy sauce, otherwise the rice will collapse. Also, don’t use too much soy sauce or it will make you thirsty. For sushi rolls, dip a little of the rice-covered roll lightly in soy sauce and eat in one bite.
“Chopsticks are acceptable, but really, I recommend using your fingers for sushi. Do use chopsticks for sashimi, though.
“The ginger should be eaten separately as a palette cleanser and used to clear the mouth when switching between different pieces of fish.”
Results
2.30pm: Dubai Creek Tower – Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (Dirt) 1,200m; Winner: Marmara Xm, Gary Sanchez (jockey), Abdelkhir Adam (trainer)
3pm: Al Yasmeen – Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: AS Hajez, Jesus Rosales, Khalifa Al Neyadi
3.30pm: Al Ferdous – Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: Soukainah, Sebastien Martino, Jean-Claude Pecout
4pm: The Crown Prince Of Sharjah – Prestige (PA) Dh200,000 (D) 1,200m; Winner: AF Thayer, Ray Dawson, Ernst Oertel
4.30pm: Sheikh Ahmed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Cup – Handicap (TB) Dh200,000 (D) 2,000m; Winner: George Villiers, Antonio Fresu, Bhupat Seemar
5pm: Palma Spring – Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 2,000m; Winner: Es Abu Mousa, Antonio Fresu, Abubakar Daud
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Kamindu Mendis bio
Full name: Pasqual Handi Kamindu Dilanka Mendis
Born: September 30, 1998
Age: 20 years and 26 days
Nationality: Sri Lankan
Major teams Sri Lanka's Under 19 team
Batting style: Left-hander
Bowling style: Right-arm off-spin and slow left-arm orthodox (that's right!)
RESULTS
Bantamweight: Jalal Al Daaja (JOR) beat Hamza Bougamza (MAR)
Catchweight 67kg: Mohamed El Mesbahi (MAR) beat Fouad Mesdari (ALG)
Lightweight: Abdullah Mohammed Ali (UAE) beat Abdelhak Amhidra (MAR)
Catchweight 73kg: Mosatafa Ibrahim Radi (PAL) beat Yazid Chouchane (ALG)
Middleweight: Yousri Belgaroui (TUN) beat Badreddine Diani (MAR)
Catchweight 78KG: Rashed Dawood (UAE) beat Adnan Bushashy (ALG)
Middleweight: Sallah-Eddine Dekhissi (MAR) beat Abdel Enam (EGY)
Catchweight 65kg: Yanis Ghemmouri (ALG) beat Rachid Hazoume (MAR)
Lightweight: Mohammed Yahya (UAE) beat Azouz Anwar (EGY)
Catchweight 79kg: Souhil Tahiri (ALG) beat Omar Hussein (PAL)
Middleweight: Tarek Suleiman (SYR) beat Laid Zerhouni (ALG)
If you go
The flights
There are direct flights from Dubai to Sofia with FlyDubai (www.flydubai.com) and Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com), from Dh1,164 and Dh822 return including taxes, respectively.
The trip
Plovdiv is 150km from Sofia, with an hourly bus service taking around 2 hours and costing $16 (Dh58). The Rhodopes can be reached from Sofia in between 2-4hours.
The trip was organised by Bulguides (www.bulguides.com), which organises guided trips throughout Bulgaria. Guiding, accommodation, food and transfers from Plovdiv to the mountains and back costs around 170 USD for a four-day, three-night trip.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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North Pole stats
Distance covered: 160km
Temperature: -40°C
Weight of equipment: 45kg
Altitude (metres above sea level): 0
Terrain: Ice rock
South Pole stats
Distance covered: 130km
Temperature: -50°C
Weight of equipment: 50kg
Altitude (metres above sea level): 3,300
Terrain: Flat ice
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
In numbers
1,000 tonnes of waste collected daily:
- 800 tonnes converted into alternative fuel
- 150 tonnes to landfill
- 50 tonnes sold as scrap metal
800 tonnes of RDF replaces 500 tonnes of coal
Two conveyor lines treat more than 350,000 tonnes of waste per year
25 staff on site
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor Cricket World Cup – Sep 16-20, Insportz, Dubai
16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side
8 There are eight players per team
9 There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.
5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls
4 Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership
Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.
Zones
A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs
B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run
C Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs
D Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full
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Scoreline
Arsenal 3
Aubameyang (28'), Welbeck (38', 81')
Red cards: El Neny (90' 3)
Southampton 2
Long (17'), Austin (73')
Red cards: Stephens (90' 2)
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20APPLE%20IPHONE%2014
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The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
What are the influencer academy modules?
- Mastery of audio-visual content creation.
- Cinematography, shots and movement.
- All aspects of post-production.
- Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
- Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
- Tourism industry knowledge.
- Professional ethics.
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
What is Reform?
Reform is a right-wing, populist party led by Nigel Farage, a former MEP who won a seat in the House of Commons last year at his eighth attempt and a prominent figure in the campaign for the UK to leave the European Union.
It was founded in 2018 and originally called the Brexit Party.
Many of its members previously belonged to UKIP or the mainstream Conservatives.
After Brexit took place, the party focused on the reformation of British democracy.
Former Tory deputy chairman Lee Anderson became its first MP after defecting in March 2024.
The party gained support from Elon Musk, and had hoped the tech billionaire would make a £100m donation. However, Mr Musk changed his mind and called for Mr Farage to step down as leader in a row involving the US tycoon's support for far-right figurehead Tommy Robinson who is in prison for contempt of court.
Specs – Taycan 4S
Engine: Electric
Transmission: 2-speed auto
Power: 571bhp
Torque: 650Nm
Price: Dh431,800
Specs – Panamera
Engine: 3-litre V6 with 100kW electric motor
Transmission: 2-speed auto
Power: 455bhp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: from Dh431,800
Profile
Co-founders of the company: Vilhelm Hedberg and Ravi Bhusari
Launch year: In 2016 ekar launched and signed an agreement with Etihad Airways in Abu Dhabi. In January 2017 ekar launched in Dubai in a partnership with the RTA.
Number of employees: Over 50
Financing stage: Series B currently being finalised
Investors: Series A - Audacia Capital
Sector of operation: Transport
more from Janine di Giovanni
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
Review: Tomb Raider
Dir: Roar Uthaug
Starring: Alicia Vikander, Dominic West, Daniel Wu, Walter Goggins
two stars
The specs
Engine: Direct injection 4-cylinder 1.4-litre
Power: 150hp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: From Dh139,000
On sale: Now
UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Queen
Nicki Minaj
(Young Money/Cash Money)
Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
Schedule for Asia Cup
Sept 15: Bangladesh v Sri Lanka (Dubai)
Sept 16: Pakistan v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 17: Sri Lanka v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 18: India v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 19: India v Pakistan (Dubai)
Sept 20: Bangladesh v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi) Super Four
Sept 21: Group A Winner v Group B Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 21: Group B Winner v Group A Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 23: Group A Winner v Group A Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 23: Group B Winner v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 25: Group A Winner v Group B Winner (Dubai)
Sept 26: Group A Runner-up v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 28: Final (Dubai)
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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China
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UAE
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Japan
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Norway
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Canada
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Singapore
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Australia
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|
9.
|
Saudi Arabia
|
|
10.
|
South Korea
|
