Gully Tours, a boutique experiential tour company in India, takes people on the Midnight Trail of Bangalore. Getty Images
Gully Tours, a boutique experiential tour company in India, takes people on the Midnight Trail of Bangalore. Getty Images
Gully Tours, a boutique experiential tour company in India, takes people on the Midnight Trail of Bangalore. Getty Images
Gully Tours, a boutique experiential tour company in India, takes people on the Midnight Trail of Bangalore. Getty Images

A midnight tour of Bangalore shows another side of this south Indian city


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On a Saturday night in autumn, a handful of us gather next to Cubbon Park metro station in downtown Bangalore, the capital of India's southern Karnataka state. The sky is inky blue and a cool breeze blows frequently, carrying subtle hints of rain. The monsoon is retreating, with rains holding for the moment.

The busy traffic junction in front of us is winding down. This is probably a good thing since we are about to embark on an unusual journey – seeing Bangalore – really “seeing” it – at night.

From the docking station nearby, each of us picks a Yulu bike, an app-enabled electric mobility vehicle that feels like a toy scooter. A trial reveals it to be noiseless, smooth and easy to manoeuvre. “It’s safe and the fastest you’ll be able to go is 25 kilometres per hour, so enjoy,” says leader Prathyush Mandar of Gully Tours, a boutique experiential tour company behind the Midnight Trail of Bangalore.

Prathyush Mandar of Gully Tours leads the pack. Photo: Anita Rao Kashi
Prathyush Mandar of Gully Tours leads the pack. Photo: Anita Rao Kashi

The tour starts slowly. Behind Mandar, we head out hesitantly in single file into sparse traffic, trying to acclimatise. Round the corner, about 300 metres away, is the first stop, in front of Vidhana Soudha – the seat of the state government and the city’s most famous building.

By day the large granite building, depicting a melange of South Indian architectural styles, is striking. At night, lit from within and silhouetted against the dark sky, it is breathtaking.

In front, lit bronze statues of Bangalore founder Kempegowda and 13th-century saint-philosopher Basavanna add to the dramatic scene. Normally, the wide streets and pavements are full of vehicles, tourists and vendors. At this hour, there is hardly any traffic, very few people and a lone puffed-rice seller who doesn’t seem to be doing much business.

Vidhana Soudha is beautiful lit up at night. Getty Images
Vidhana Soudha is beautiful lit up at night. Getty Images

As we gaze, Mandar briefly explains its history and that of Karnataka High Court, a Pompeii-red building across from it, which is shrouded in darkness. The incessant noise of the day has given way to long bouts of silence, perfect for soaking up the buildings’ majesty.

In the stillness, I see a trio of fruit bats silently swooping around nearby trees, their large wings much darker against the sky. It is both eerie and fascinating.

I reluctantly clamber back on to the bike and head east with the rest. Suitably acclimatised to the vehicle, I open up the throttle and love the feeling of whizzing by with the cool breeze on my face.

Soon, we are at the next stop, near the busy Balekundri Circle. A Parsee fire temple hides in plain sight, something I hadn’t noticed before despite passing by thousands of times. We skirt around it, since it is out of bounds for non-Parsees. Mandar places it in context of Bangalore’s history, quizzing us and engaging the group with insightful questions and cheerful banter.

Commercial Street still has a vibe at night. Getty Images
Commercial Street still has a vibe at night. Getty Images

We zip around the city’s Cantonment area, which is replete with colonial history and names such as Cubbon Road, Union Street and Plain Street. We stop frequently, either at a historical venue or because the skies decide to open up.

Mandar uses the stops to regale us with mythical stories surrounding the city’s name: “A wandering king was fed boiled beans by a poor woman and named it Bendakaaluru – literally, the town of boiled beans, which got simplified to Bengaluru, the city’s local name. In reality, it’s just a story.” He shares snippets of royal and colonial history, its label of Pensioners Paradise owing to its salubrious climate and laid-back attitude, and its gradual rise as the country’s tech capital.

We often stand and stare at silent edifices – St Andrew’s Church, military establishments, colonial-era houses on Kamaraj Road and crossroads with ornate doors, embellished facades and monkey tops (a colonial architectural element to deter monkeys), such as the 1916 one dedicated to British theosophist and founder of the India’s Congress party, Annie Besant.

As the witching hour approaches, traffic is all but non-existent, far from the bad rap Bangalore attracts for its congestion. It is surreal to zoom around silently, the streets filled with dappled shadows thrown by yellow street lamps and avenue trees (gulmohar, tabebuia, jacaranda and rain trees). In between, we stop to refuel.

At Santosh Chat House on Union Street, a small but popular street food vendor, we tuck into hot and spicy mixed chat and vada pav (spicy mashed potato fritter in a square bun). Elsewhere, milky masala chai on Dispensary Road is perfect during a downpour.

Snack stop at Santosh Chat House. Photo: Anita Rao Kashi
Snack stop at Santosh Chat House. Photo: Anita Rao Kashi

We dodge rains and join MG Road, downtown’s most popular 2.5km stretch. It’s past midnight and there’s some traffic, but nowhere near the daytime rush. By now the bike is my friend and I gleefully push it to maximum speed, passing the 140-year-old colonial Mayo Hall housing civil courts.

Our last stop is Lake View Milk Bar, a storied, century-old institution and old haunt, where we slurp on ice creams – chocolate for me. The place is so popular that even past midnight, it is crammed and we jostle for space under the outside patio, buffeted by whiffs of sizzling brownies and hot chocolate fudge. It is nostalgic and blissful.

More than three hours later I head back to where we started, passing the towering St Mark’s Cathedral. On my right, Chinnaswamy Stadium, cricket’s bastion, looms large. On match days, it reverberates with cheering fans and its brilliant floodlights are seen from afar. On this night, it stands dark and silent, a brooding presence. On my left, the beloved Cubbon Park, now pitch-black, is equally as gloomy.

A bit unsettled, I hurry along. Soon, I am back at the docking station and we bid our goodbyes. But the night’s moving montage of my city, in an entirely different light, lingers. And I feel richer for it.

Match info

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Fred (18')

Wolves 1
Moutinho (53')

Full Party in the Park line-up

2pm – Andreah

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4.30pm – The Boxtones

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7pm – Step On DJs

8pm – Richard Ashcroft

9.30pm – Chris Wright

10pm – Fatboy Slim

11pm – Hollaphonic

 

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5pm: UAE Martyrs Cup (TB) Conditions; Dh90,000; 2,200m
5.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup (PA) Handicap; Dh70,000; 1,400m​​​​​​​
6pm: UAE Matyrs Trophy (PA) Maiden; Dh80,000; 1,600m​​​​​​​
6.30pm: Sheikha Fatima bint Mubarak (IFAHR) Apprentice Championship (PA) Prestige; Dh100,000; 1,600m​​​​​​​
7pm: Sheikha Fatima bint Mubarak (IFAHR) Ladies World Championship (PA) Prestige; Dh125,000; 1,600m​​​​​​​
8pm: Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan Jewel Crown (PA) Group 1; Dh5,000,000; 1,600m

Netherlands v UAE, Twenty20 International series

Saturday, August 3 - First T20i, Amstelveen
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Thursday, August 8 – Fourth T20i, Vooryburg

The specs

Engine: 2x201bhp AC Permanent-magnetic electric

Transmission: n/a

Power: 402bhp

Torque: 659Nm

Price estimate: Dh200,000

On sale: Q3 2022 

ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.

The hotels

Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.

The tours

A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages. 

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Tiger:independent, successful, volatile
Rat:witty, creative, charming
Ox:diligent, perseverent, conservative
Rabbit:gracious, considerate, sensitive
Dragon:prosperous, brave, rash
Snake:calm, thoughtful, stubborn
Horse:faithful, energetic, carefree
Sheep:easy-going, peacemaker, curious
Monkey:family-orientated, clever, playful
Rooster:honest, confident, pompous
Dog:loyal, kind, perfectionist
Boar:loving, tolerant, indulgent   

Other ways to buy used products in the UAE

UAE insurance firm Al Wathba National Insurance Company (AWNIC) last year launched an e-commerce website with a facility enabling users to buy car wrecks.

Bidders and potential buyers register on the online salvage car auction portal to view vehicles, review condition reports, or arrange physical surveys, and then start bidding for motors they plan to restore or harvest for parts.

Physical salvage car auctions are a common method for insurers around the world to move on heavily damaged vehicles, but AWNIC is one of the few UAE insurers to offer such services online.

For cars and less sizeable items such as bicycles and furniture, Dubizzle is arguably the best-known marketplace for pre-loved.

Founded in 2005, in recent years it has been joined by a plethora of Facebook community pages for shifting used goods, including Abu Dhabi Marketplace, Flea Market UAE and Arabian Ranches Souq Market while sites such as The Luxury Closet and Riot deal largely in second-hand fashion.

At the high-end of the pre-used spectrum, resellers such as Timepiece360.ae, WatchBox Middle East and Watches Market Dubai deal in authenticated second-hand luxury timepieces from brands such as Rolex, Hublot and Tag Heuer, with a warranty.

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Who: France v Italy
When: Friday, 11pm (UAE)
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Batti Gul Meter Chalu

Producers: KRTI Productions, T-Series
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Cast: Shahid Kapoor, Shraddha Kapoor, Divyenndu Sharma, Yami Gautam
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Lives: In the UAE

Background: M&A, investment banking

Studied: Corporate finance

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Rating: 3/5

Directors: Ramin Bahrani, Debbie Allen, Hanelle Culpepper, Guillermo Navarro

Writers: Walter Mosley

Stars: Samuel L Jackson, Dominique Fishback, Walton Goggins

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Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

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Conservative MPs who have publicly revealed sending letters of no confidence
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  2. Peter Bone
  3. Ben Bradley
  4. Andrew Bridgen
  5. Maria Caulfield​​​​​​​
  6. Simon Clarke 
  7. Philip Davies
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  10. Mark Francois 
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  13. Andrea Jenkyns
  14. Anne-Marie Morris
  15. Sheryll Murray
  16. Jacob Rees-Mogg
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  21. John Whittingdale
Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
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  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
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  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Tearful appearance

Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday. 

Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow. 

She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.

A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.

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2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups

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Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.

Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.

Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.

Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.

Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.

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BUNDESLIGA FIXTURES

Friday (all kick-offs UAE time)

Hertha Berlin v Union Berlin (10.30pm)

Saturday

Freiburg v Werder Bremen (5.30pm)

Paderborn v Hoffenheim (5.30pm)

Wolfsburg v Borussia Dortmund (5.30pm)

Borussia Monchengladbach v Bayer Leverkusen (5.30pm)

Bayern Munich v Eintracht Frankfurt (5.30pm)

Sunday

Schalke v Augsburg (3.30pm)

Mainz v RB Leipzig (5.30pm)

Cologne v Fortuna Dusseldorf (8pm)

Scorebox

Dubai Sports City Eagles 7 Bahrain 88

Eagles

Try: Penalty

Bahrain

Tries: Gibson 2, Morete 2, Bishop 2, Bell 2, Behan, Fameitau, Sanson, Roberts, Bennett, Radley

Cons: Radley 4, Whittingham 5

UK-EU trade at a glance

EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years

Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products

Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries

Smoother border management with use of e-gates

Cutting red tape on import and export of food

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How The Debt Panel's advice helped readers in 2019

December 11: 'My husband died, so what happens to the Dh240,000 he owes in the UAE?'

JL, a housewife from India, wrote to us about her husband, who died earlier this month. He left behind an outstanding loan of Dh240,000 and she was hoping to pay it off with an insurance policy he had taken out. She also wanted to recover some of her husband’s end-of-service liabilities to help support her and her son.

“I have no words to thank you for helping me out,” she wrote to The Debt Panel after receiving the panellists' comments. “The advice has given me an idea of the present status of the loan and how to take it up further. I will draft a letter and send it to the email ID on the bank’s website along with the death certificate. I hope and pray to find a way out of this.”

November 26:  ‘I owe Dh100,000 because my employer has not paid me for a year’

SL, a financial services employee from India, left the UAE in June after quitting his job because his employer had not paid him since November 2018. He owes Dh103,800 on four debts and was told by the panellists he may be able to use the insolvency law to solve his issue. 

SL thanked the panellists for their efforts. "Indeed, I have some clarity on the consequence of the case and the next steps to take regarding my situation," he says. "Hopefully, I will be able to provide a positive testimony soon."

October 15: 'I lost my job and left the UAE owing Dh71,000. Can I return?'

MS, an energy sector employee from South Africa, left the UAE in August after losing his Dh12,000 job. He was struggling to meet the repayments while securing a new position in the UAE and feared he would be detained if he returned. He has now secured a new job and will return to the Emirates this month.

“The insolvency law is indeed a relief to hear,” he says. "I will not apply for insolvency at this stage. I have been able to pay something towards my loan and credit card. As it stands, I only have a one-month deficit, which I will be able to recover by the end of December." 

Tips for job-seekers
  • Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
  • Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.

David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East

Honeymoonish
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Most match wins on clay

Guillermo Vilas - 659

Manuel Orantes - 501

Thomas Muster - 422

Rafael Nadal - 399 *

Jose Higueras - 378

Eddie Dibbs - 370

Ilie Nastase - 338

Carlos Moya - 337

Ivan Lendl - 329

Andres Gomez - 322

Updated: November 23, 2023, 10:16 AM`