Getting to Hanle, a remote village in the Union Territory of Ladakh in north India, takes a bit of effort and a lot of determination. At 4,500 metres above sea level, the mountainous desert landscape is inhospitable but breathtakingly beautiful, and the nearest airport is at least seven hours away.
But a tiny fraction make the effort – for a very specific reason. To see the sky. As absurd as that sounds, Hanle has something that’s not anywhere else in India and in very few places in Asia – intense dark skies carpeted with stars. Which is why it became the country’s only dark-sky reserve in December.
Hanle sits in a valley carved by an eponymous river, surrounded by a stark and dramatic landscape – flat bare lands in shades of brown and occasional green grasslands are interrupted by ribbons of flowing electric blue water, flanked by blue-green hills and mountain ranges, some topped with snow. Nothing much grows here and the blue-green comes more from the play of light than any vegetation.
Hanle wasn’t known outside its immediate vicinity until about two decades ago. Visitors were few and far between, and generally headed to its 17th-century Buddhist monastery and the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary, home to the rare kiang (Tibetan wild ass).
At the turn of the century, it became home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, run by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, a high-altitude astronomy station with optical, infrared and gamma-ray telescopes. Even at that point, it was only researchers, scientists and hardcore astronomers who made the arduous journey. Of late, however, Hanle has evoked interest among a budding community of astronomy enthusiasts and sky gazers. It is expected to boost astro-tourism, but it remains firmly positioned within the local community.
“Hanle is very remote and there is no light or dust pollution. There is less moisture and it has a dry atmosphere, so it is ideal for observing the sky,” says Dorje Angchuk, the IAO’s engineer-in-charge. “It is also uniquely located in a rain-shadow region and does not get any monsoon rains.
“So it has more cloud-free nights than anywhere else in the country – 270 usable nights [where observation is possible for four hours or more], of which 170 are cloud-free. The darkness is very good, comparable to any other dark-sky location across the world,” he says, noting that moonless nights between March and November are particularly good for sky-gazing.
Just how dark and how visible is difficult to quantify, so Angchuk, offers this as comparison: “Wherever you are in the country, if you go to a relatively dark place and are able to recognise some constellations, you will have a tough time identifying them in Hanle.
“The sky is that dense with stars that it becomes difficult. The most spectacular sight is that of the Milky Way of course, but in winter, it is also possible to get a fuzzy view of the Andromeda Galaxy [2.5 million light years away].”
A few years ago, the IIA and the Ladakh administration began exploring ways to turn Hanle into an astro-tourism hotspot, and developed a framework to govern a dark-sky reserve. It led to a unique symbiosis between researchers, the local government and the community. “An area of about a 22km radius around the observatory has been declared as the Hanle Dark Sky Reserve,” says Niruj Mohan Ramanujam, head of the IIA’s science communication, public outreach and education section.
Broadly, the designation involves light management and development of astro-tourism. “It comes with certain conditions, like restrictions on the kinds of activities and the control of emitted light. But the burden of all this was on us – financing by the Union Territory and management by us. So warm bulbs have been installed, outside lights have lampshades and all houses are being given dark curtains,” he says.
At the heart of HDSR is the community, about 300 households spread over six villages, and the dark reserve is their domain. The village elders have signed the La Palma Declaration with Fundacion Starlight, which, among other things, asserts that “an unpolluted night sky” that allows for enjoyment is “an inalienable right” and calls for measures including education, intelligent use of artificial lighting and adoption of responsible tourism measures.
“It aligns with preserving the area and developing the community through sustainable measures and empowering locals through science-driven education,” says Ramanujam. The Ladakh government funded the training of 24 youngsters, 70 per cent of them female, and bought 18 telescopes. “We trained them in basic astronomy, identifying things in the night sky, and how to operate a telescope. These are our astro-tourism ambassadors,” he says.
This is expected to unleash economic development and open up self-employment avenues in the region. From only a handful of homestays a few years ago, there are more than a dozen now; from about 3,000 to 4,000 annual visitors before the pandemic, about 10,000 converged here last year. More facilities, including a visitor centre, activities and workshops for astronomy enthusiasts are likely to follow soon.
“This is a unique model that can be used in the rest of the country. Eventually, there will probably be several astro-tourism spots, in Ladakh, as well as in other parts of the country where there are dark skies,” explains Ramanujam.
For millennia, the night sky and its infinite stars have evoked wonder and curiosity, and have been eulogised and worshipped. Stars have guided ships to land and a falling one is believed to make wishes come true.
Angchuk says, in Hanle, it unleashes a spiritual side. “When they see the night sky, people tell me they have landed in heaven.”
Director: Laxman Utekar
Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna
Rating: 1/5
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Our legal columnist
Name: Yousef Al Bahar
Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994
Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers
The biog
Name: Timothy Husband
Nationality: New Zealand
Education: Degree in zoology at The University of Sydney
Favourite book: Lemurs of Madagascar by Russell A Mittermeier
Favourite music: Billy Joel
Weekends and holidays: Talking about animals or visiting his farm in Australia
Blue%20Beetle
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Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Votes
Total votes: 1.8 million
Ashraf Ghani: 923,592 votes
Abdullah Abdullah: 720,841 votes
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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When Umm Kulthum performed in Abu Dhabi
Known as The Lady of Arabic Song, Umm Kulthum performed in Abu Dhabi on November 28, 1971, as part of celebrations for the fifth anniversary of the accession of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan as Ruler of Abu Dhabi. A concert hall was constructed for the event on land that is now Al Nahyan Stadium, behind Al Wahda Mall. The audience were treated to many of Kulthum's most well-known songs as part of the sold-out show, including Aghadan Alqak and Enta Omri.
Pathaan
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ENGLAND WORLD CUP SQUAD
Eoin Morgan (captain), Moeen Ali, Jonny Bairstow, Jos Buttler (wicketkeeper), Tom Curran, Joe Denly, Alex Hales, Liam Plunkett, Adil Rashid, Joe Root, Jason Roy, Ben Stokes, David Willey, Chris Woakes, Mark Wood
More coverage from the Future Forum
Why are asylum seekers being housed in hotels?
The number of asylum applications in the UK has reached a new record high, driven by those illegally entering the country in small boats crossing the English Channel.
A total of 111,084 people applied for asylum in the UK in the year to June 2025, the highest number for any 12-month period since current records began in 2001.
Asylum seekers and their families can be housed in temporary accommodation while their claim is assessed.
The Home Office provides the accommodation, meaning asylum seekers cannot choose where they live.
When there is not enough housing, the Home Office can move people to hotels or large sites like former military bases.
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Profile of Udrive
Date started: March 2016
Founder: Hasib Khan
Based: Dubai
Employees: 40
Amount raised (to date): $3.25m – $750,000 seed funding in 2017 and a Seed round of $2.5m last year. Raised $1.3m from Eureeca investors in January 2021 as part of a Series A round with a $5m target.
Schedule for Asia Cup
Sept 15: Bangladesh v Sri Lanka (Dubai)
Sept 16: Pakistan v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 17: Sri Lanka v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 18: India v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 19: India v Pakistan (Dubai)
Sept 20: Bangladesh v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi) Super Four
Sept 21: Group A Winner v Group B Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 21: Group B Winner v Group A Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 23: Group A Winner v Group A Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 23: Group B Winner v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 25: Group A Winner v Group B Winner (Dubai)
Sept 26: Group A Runner-up v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 28: Final (Dubai)
MANDOOB
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SPEC SHEET
Display: 10.4-inch IPS LCD, 400 nits, toughened glass
CPU: Unisoc T610; Mali G52 GPU
Memory: 4GB
Storage: 64GB, up to 512GB microSD
Camera: 8MP rear, 5MP front
Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 5.0, USB-C, 3.5mm audio
Battery: 8200mAh, up to 10 hours video
Platform: Android 11
Audio: Stereo speakers, 2 mics
Durability: IP52
Biometrics: Face unlock
Price: Dh849
The Good Liar
Starring: Helen Mirren, Ian McKellen
Directed by: Bill Condon
Three out of five stars
EPL's youngest
- Ethan Nwaneri (Arsenal)
15 years, 181 days old
- Max Dowman (Arsenal)
15 years, 235 days old
- Jeremy Monga (Leicester)
15 years, 271 days old
- Harvey Elliott (Fulham)
16 years, 30 days old
- Matthew Briggs (Fulham)
16 years, 68 days old
The most expensive investment mistake you will ever make
When is the best time to start saving in a pension? The answer is simple – at the earliest possible moment. The first pound, euro, dollar or dirham you invest is the most valuable, as it has so much longer to grow in value. If you start in your twenties, it could be invested for 40 years or more, which means you have decades for compound interest to work its magic.
“You get growth upon growth upon growth, followed by more growth. The earlier you start the process, the more it will all roll up,” says Chris Davies, chartered financial planner at The Fry Group in Dubai.
This table shows how much you would have in your pension at age 65, depending on when you start and how much you pay in (it assumes your investments grow 7 per cent a year after charges and you have no other savings).
|
Age
|
$250 a month
|
$500 a month
|
$1,000 a month
|
|
25
|
$640,829
|
$1,281,657
|
$2,563,315
|
|
35
|
$303,219
|
$606,439
|
$1,212,877
|
|
45
|
$131,596
|
$263,191
|
$526,382
|
|
55
|
$44,351
|
$88,702
|
$177,403
|
Nick's journey in numbers
Countries so far: 85
Flights: 149
Steps: 3.78 million
Calories: 220,000
Floors climbed: 2,000
Donations: GPB37,300
Prostate checks: 5
Blisters: 15
Bumps on the head: 2
Dog bites: 1
Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025
Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
What sanctions would be reimposed?
Under ‘snapback’, measures imposed on Iran by the UN Security Council in six resolutions would be restored, including:
- An arms embargo
- A ban on uranium enrichment and reprocessing
- A ban on launches and other activities with ballistic missiles capable of delivering nuclear weapons, as well as ballistic missile technology transfer and technical assistance
- A targeted global asset freeze and travel ban on Iranian individuals and entities
- Authorisation for countries to inspect Iran Air Cargo and Islamic Republic of Iran Shipping Lines cargoes for banned goods
Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
From Zero
Artist: Linkin Park
Label: Warner Records
Number of tracks: 11
Rating: 4/5
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