As the first rays of dawn light up the horizon in Sadri, a municipality in India's Rajasthan, the Raika — a pastoral nomadic community — head out to their camels. Resting between the low lying acacia trees and scrub vegetation, the animals stir at the approaching footsteps.
Guests staying at the nearby Ranakpur Camel Lodge have the option to join the Raika on a morning chaifari — a unique type of safari — with the chance to see the handlers milk the camels. This routine is followed by a cup of tea brewed with fresh frothy camel milk over an open fire fuelled by dung cakes. It's common to see the Raika untie a part of their elaborately coiled crimson turbans and use the loose end to stoke the fire. Tea is served in steel katoris (cups) or in bowls constructed from freshly plucked aak leaves, a plant found abundantly in Rajasthan.
The Raika and their camels share an exceptionally strong bond that has been built over generations. The hardy people consider the camels to be part of their family and believe that every camel has a unique personality. As Dayli Devi Raika says: “Nowadays all kinds of people keep animals, but nobody can serve them like the Raika can.”
One of the largest states in India, Rajasthan is home to the Thar Desert, also known as The Great Indian Desert. In this dry and inhospitable terrain, camels have long been an intrinsic part of life. But while the desert sands remain, life in this part of the world has transformed and with it, so has the role of these humped creatures.
Over the years, the "ships of the desert" have slowly lost their relevance, substituted by improved means of transportation and a growing network of roads across the state. Furthermore, a lack of adequate grazing grounds and unfavourable legislation have adversely impacted the camel population.
The story of Ranakpur Camel Lodge began in the 1990s, when German veterinarian Ilse Kohler-Rollefson moved to India to study the hoofed mammals. Back then, the country had the third-largest camel population in the world, a number that Kohler-Rollefson says has declined by about 90 per cent.
In 1996, alongside Indian Rajput Hanwant Singh Rathore, whose grandfather was a camel trader, she set up Lokhit Pashu Palak Sansthan, a welfare organisation for lifestock herders. The organisation focuses on establishing grazing rights and veterinary care for camels and attempts to influence state level policies in favour of the creatures and their herders.
LPPS works closely with the Raika in championing their issues. One of the primary challenges facing the community is a lack of steady income. In an effort to build alternative income streams, Kohler-Rollefson set up a camel dairy process, as well as places and procedures to assist the Raika in making camel soap and wool, plus a workshop where paper can be created out of camel dung.
However, these streams alone don't generate sufficient income for the herders. “Milk can bring in income, but the demand for camel milk is still limited,” explains Kohler-Rollefson.
Seeing the fascination that visitors to the region had for the camels and the Raika, Kohler-Rollefson realised that tourism could be a positive pivot to secure much-needed additional income.
In 2018, two round huts that were originally built for camel herders travelling to the region to attend training sessions were opened to guests and Ranakpur Camel Lodge was born. Simple brick structures, each room has a reed roof that helps to keep it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. In the years that followed, more rooms were added and the lodge now offers seven rooms, including two luxury options — with additional comforts such as air conditioning and bathtubs.
A stay at Ranakpur Camel Lodge offers guests an immersive experience into local village life.
After the morning chaifari experience, guests can join the herders as they take their camels out to graze. The camels are kept in a nomadic system, grazing on trees and wild vegetation, many of which are also used in traditional medicine.
There's also the option to visit a Raika family and join them for a meal or lend a helping hand in some local workshops, including paper or soap-making. The soaps are made by blending camel milk, coconut oil and multani miti, a mineral-packed clay, with rose and sandalwood essence. Guests who want a true camel herder experience can also opt to spend a night under the stars with the Raika and their camels.
A highlight of any stay at the lodge is the wonderful rustic food that's cooked by women in the village. Using minimal oil and spices, meals typically feature a thali of dal, subzi (vegetable), dahi (curd) and roti (flatbread). Every thali is also served with a panchkuta — a traditional Rajasthani specialty curry made with the pods of the khejri tree.
While out with the herders, guests are also able to enjoy a camel herders' lunch consisting of bajra (millet) bread cooked over an open fire and served with dal, subzi, dahi and jaggery. There's also cheese tasting events where travellers can sample various types of camel cheese, and the option to enjoy a five-course meal featuring a host of camel dairy produce, including cream cheese dips, a salad made with camel feta, a pasta dish called camelina and cheese cake.
For guests staying at Ranakpur Camel Lodge, many of whom are repeat visitors, it's the peace that the place offers that's often cited as the highlight. But for Kohler-Rollefson, nothing beats the opportunity of being able to nuzzle with the statuesque camels that call the region home.
Schedule for Asia Cup
Sept 15: Bangladesh v Sri Lanka (Dubai)
Sept 16: Pakistan v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 17: Sri Lanka v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 18: India v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 19: India v Pakistan (Dubai)
Sept 20: Bangladesh v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi) Super Four
Sept 21: Group A Winner v Group B Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 21: Group B Winner v Group A Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 23: Group A Winner v Group A Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 23: Group B Winner v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 25: Group A Winner v Group B Winner (Dubai)
Sept 26: Group A Runner-up v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 28: Final (Dubai)
How to wear a kandura
Dos
- Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion
- Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
- Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work
- Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester
Don’ts
- Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal
- Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
Her most famous song
Aghadan Alqak (Would I Ever Find You Again)?
Would I ever find you again
You, the heaven of my love, my yearning and madness;
You, the kiss to my soul, my cheer and
sadness?
Would your lights ever break the night of my eyes again?
Would I ever find you again?
This world is volume and you're the notion,
This world is night and you're the lifetime,
This world is eyes and you're the vision,
This world is sky and you're the moon time,
Have mercy on the heart that belongs to you.
Lyrics: Al Hadi Adam; Composer: Mohammed Abdel Wahab
Vidaamuyarchi
Director: Magizh Thirumeni
Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra
Rating: 4/5
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Essentials
The flights
Whether you trek after mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Uganda or the Congo, the most convenient international airport is in Rwanda’s capital city, Kigali. There are direct flights from Dubai a couple of days a week with RwandAir. Otherwise, an indirect route is available via Nairobi with Kenya Airways. Flydubai flies to Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, via Entebbe in Uganda. Expect to pay from US$350 (Dh1,286) return, including taxes.
The tours
Superb ape-watching tours that take in all three gorilla countries mentioned above are run by Natural World Safaris. In September, the company will be operating a unique Ugandan ape safari guided by well-known primatologist Ben Garrod.
In the Democratic Republic of Congo, local operator Kivu Travel can organise pretty much any kind of safari throughout the Virunga National Park and elsewhere in eastern Congo.
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025
Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 240hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 390Nm at 3,000rpm
Transmission: eight-speed auto
Price: from Dh122,745
On sale: now
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KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Results
Men's finals
45kg:Duc Le Hoang (VIE) beat Zolfi Amirhossein (IRI) points 29-28. 48kg: Naruephon Chittra (THA) beat Joseph Vanlalhruaia (IND) TKO round 2.
51kg: Sakchai Chamchit (THA) beat Salam Al Suwaid (IRQ) TKO round 1. 54kg: Veerasak Senanue (THA) beat Huynh Hoang Phi (VIE) 30-25.
57kg: Almaz Sarsembekov (KAZ) beat Tak Chuen Suen (MAC) RSC round 3. 60kg: Yerkanat Ospan (KAZ) beat Ibrahim Bilal (UAE) 30-27.
63.5kg: Abil Galiyev (KAZ) beat Nouredine Samir (UAE) 29-28. 67kg: Narin Wonglakhon (THA) beat Mohammed Mardi (UAE) 29-28.
71kg: Amine El Moatassime (UAE) w/o Shaker Al Tekreeti (IRQ). 75kg: Youssef Abboud (LBN) w/o Ayoob Saki (IRI).
81kg: Ilyass Habibali (UAE) beat Khaled Tarraf (LBN) 29-28. 86kg: Ali Takaloo (IRI) beat Emil Umayev (KAZ) 30-27.
91kg: Hamid Reza Kordabadi (IRI) beat Mohamad Osaily (LBN) RSC round 1. 91-plus kg: Mohammadrezapoor Shirmohammad (IRI) beat Abdulla Hasan (IRQ) 30-27.
Women's finals
45kg: Somruethai Siripathum (THA) beat Ha Huu Huynh (VIE) 30-27. 48kg: Thanawan Thongduang (THA) beat Colleen Saddi (PHI) 30-27.
51kg: Wansawang Srila Or (THA) beat Thuy Phuong Trieu (VIE) 29-28. 54kg: Ruchira Wongsriwo (THA) beat Zeinab Khatoun (LBN) 30-26.
57kg: Sara Idriss (LBN) beat Zahra Nasiri Bargh (IRI) 30-27. 60kg: Kaewrudee Kamtakrapoom (THA) beat Sedigheh Hajivand (IRI) TKO round 2.
63.5kg: Nadiya Moghaddam (IRI) w/o Reem Al Issa (JOR).
Not Dark Yet
Shelby Lynne and Allison Moorer
Four stars
THE SPECS
Engine: AMG-enhanced 3.0L inline-6 turbo with EQ Boost and electric auxiliary compressor
Transmission: nine-speed automatic
Power: 429hp
Torque: 520Nm
Price: Dh360,200 (starting)
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
THE BIO: Mohammed Ashiq Ali
Proudest achievement: “I came to a new country and started this shop”
Favourite TV programme: the news
Favourite place in Dubai: Al Fahidi. “They started the metro in 2009 and I didn’t take it yet.”
Family: six sons in Dubai and a daughter in Faisalabad
