Riding skills are an integral part of rural Kyrgyz life. Photo: Sarah Siese
Riding skills are an integral part of rural Kyrgyz life. Photo: Sarah Siese
Riding skills are an integral part of rural Kyrgyz life. Photo: Sarah Siese
Riding skills are an integral part of rural Kyrgyz life. Photo: Sarah Siese

Exploring the wilds of Kyrgyzstan on horseback


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Archaeological evidence of horses in the Middle East stretches back about 4,500 years, but it was probably on the steppes of southern Russia and Kazakhstan that the animals were first domesticated — and then introduced to the ancient Middle East in 2300BC.

So, an equine adventure led by renowned endurance rider Alexandra Tolstoy across the unspoilt wilds of Kyrgyzstan seems only fitting for adventurous horse lovers.

From the offset, the scenery is exceptionally appealing and, as a journey, there’s a twist of storybook romance and escape. The area is beloved by Tolstoy for its extraordinary geographic diversity, cultural richness and gentle people; along with its cerulean lakes and virgin landscapes speckled with wild iris and multitudes of giant purple alliums, hollyhocks and foxtail lilies.

Five to six hours a day are spent in the saddle. Photo: Sarah Siese
Five to six hours a day are spent in the saddle. Photo: Sarah Siese

Kyrgyzstan is a landlocked country in central Asia bordered by Kazakhstan to the north, China to the east, and Tajikistan and Uzbekistan to the south and west. Alluring views of the foothills of the Tien Shan mountains and surrounding glaciers can be seen from street level as soon as you arrive in the capital, Bishkek.

While the uplands beg to be explored, Bishkek, founded in the 19th century, is definitely worth a day or two — not least the vast Alatau Square and Osh Bazaar, popular for its colourful Kyrgyz felt carpets. Close by, The Kyrgyz National Museum of Fine Arts, a drab grey block of brutal architecture, is crammed with exquisite Kyrgyz crafts and paintings. Of particular note are the heavy felt rugs covered in geometric patterns, an embroidered wrap skirt lined with rabbit fur and copious ravishing masterpieces that have stood the tests of time and fashion.

When Stalin rounded up the remnants of the tsarist empire in the 1920s, he created five Central Asian territories to add to those of the recently formed USSR. The Soviet tide finally ebbed again in 1991 and each territory — Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan — emerged as a newly independent nation. Of these five "stans", the last, Kyrgyzstan, is often referred to as the friendliest and most beautiful.

Most of its borders run along scenic mountain crests, such as the Kotorma Pass in Sary Chelek, where my small trusty stallion uses every ounce of energy and concentration to scale the vertiginous path. The route is steep and narrow, but easily negotiated by the Kyrgyz horses — a small, sure-footed mountain breed with the stamina, agility and endurance needed for this mountain environment.

Interactions with locals. Photo: Sarah Siese
Interactions with locals. Photo: Sarah Siese

The view from halfway up extends 180 degrees, overlooking the valley where we’ve camped for two nights on the shores of Lake Iri-Kel. All around the camp lie swathes of ripe fennel, an undulating sea of yellow from this height, rippling in the breeze. On horseback, fragrant wafts of mountain thyme crushed under hoof frequently fill the air, mixed with bursts of sage and rosemary, released as stirrups brush past.

Another morning, before we reach the Tas-Bel Pass, we ride through hectares of verdant woodlands filled with wild mulberry trees, into the largest walnut forest in the world. We pass a family on their way to their summer yurt. Kyrgyz are semi-nomadic people — the word Kyrgyz actually means 40 tribes — and when warm weather arrives, they disperse from the villages in which they shelter during winter and head to the summer jailoo — isolated pastures in these widespread peaks.

Travelling through the lengthy Susamir Valley, which is occupied by nomads in small clusters of white yurts and flocks of farm animals, we see teams of young boys practicing their horsey skills. This part of rural Kyrgyz life is particularly important and an onlooker soon realises that local equine sports require a warrior-like spirit.

Later, on a plateau beside the dramatic turquoise waters of Kara-Suu Lake, we witness just how much skill is involved. Ulak is an ancient game — half polo, half rugby, with a dash and wrestle for a headless goat carcass (stuffed with salt packs to increase the weight), which players attempt to hurl, drop or smuggle over the opposition's goal line. It’s a game requiring speed, agility, strength and stealth; a demonstration of acrobatics and courage.

Kyrgyz horses are a small, sure-footed mountain breed. Photo: Sarah Siese
Kyrgyz horses are a small, sure-footed mountain breed. Photo: Sarah Siese

Melis, one of our guides and the champion Ulak player of his region in southern Kyrgyzstan, celebrates another victory. The shirt he wears is beautiful and intricately embroidered by his wife. His horse is wearing improvised hoof boots fabricated from old car tyres for protection. His adoration for this horse is apparent to all and the extraordinary display of dexterity from the two is utterly enthralling.

For the rest of us, the experience proves to be an ideal marriage of leisurely horse-paced travel and adventure in the splendiferous mountain scenery. Occasionally, the terrain opens up into broad wild flower meadows where it is possible to canter, but most of the time it’s a gentle stroll beside bubbling brooks of glacial meltwater and lakeside grassland. This little corner of central Asia has retained its inheritance — a wealth of cultural and scenic mystery.

For now, its ancestral allure remains unspoilt and as I cross the land, I notice the shared sense of gratitude within our small group. It’s a feeling we’ll carry in our hearts long after parting.

Scheduled riding trips are run in May and September, when mean temperatures reach 25ºC during the day and a comfortable 16ºC at night. Bespoke trips can also be commissioned. A basic level of fitness is necessary as five to six hours are spent in the saddle each day, covering about 25km with occasional canters through open ground easily negotiated by local Kyrgyz horses. Prices from $5,700 per person; www.alexandratolstoy.co.uk

RESULTS

5pm: Wathba Stallions Cup – Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner: Yas Xmnsor, Sean Kirrane (jockey), Khalifa Al Neyadi (trainer)

5.30pm: Falaj Hazza – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Arim W’Rsan, Dane O’Neill, Jaci Wickham

6pm: Al Basrah – Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner: Kalifano De Ghazal, Abdul Aziz Al Balushi, Helal Al Alawi

6.30pm: Oud Al Touba – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner: Pharitz Oubai, Sean Kirrane, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami

7pm: Sieh bin Amaar – Conditions (PA) Dh80,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner: Oxord, Richard Mullen, Abdalla Al Hammadi

7.30pm: Jebel Hafeet – Conditions (PA) Dh85,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: AF Ramz, Sean Kirrane, Khalifa Al Neyadi

8pm: Al Saad – Handicap (TB) Dh70,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Sea Skimmer, Gabriele Malune, Kareem Ramadan

NO OTHER LAND

Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal

Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham

Rating: 3.5/5

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RESULTS

6.30pm: Emirates Holidays Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (Dirt) 1,900m
Winner: Lady Snazz, Richard Mullen (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).

7.05pm: Arabian Adventures Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Zhou Storm, Connor Beasley, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

7.40pm: Emirates Skywards Handicap (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Rich And Famous, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.

8.15pm: Emirates Airline Conditions (TB) Dh 120,000 (D) 1,400m
Winner: Rio Angie, Sam Hitchcock, Doug Watson.

8.50pm: Emirates Sky Cargo (TB) Dh 92,500 (D) 1,400m
Winner: Kinver Edge, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

9.15pm: Emirates.com (TB) Dh 95,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Firnas, Xavier Ziani, Salem bin Ghadayer.

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Fifa Club World Cup:

When: December 6-16
Where: Games to take place at Zayed Sports City in Abu Dhabi and Hazza bin Zayed Stadium in Al Ain
Defending champions: Real Madrid

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The specs

Engine: 8.0-litre, quad-turbo 16-cylinder

Transmission: 7-speed auto

0-100kmh 2.3 seconds

0-200kmh 5.5 seconds

0-300kmh 11.6 seconds

Power: 1500hp

Torque: 1600Nm

Price: Dh13,400,000

On sale: now

65
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Goalkeepers: Dean Henderson (Man Utd), Sam Johnstone (West Brom), Jordan Pickford (Everton)

Defenders: John Stones (Man City), Luke Shaw (Man Utd), Harry Maguire (Man Utd), Trent Alexander-Arnold (Liverpool), Kyle Walker (Man City), Tyrone Mings (Aston Villa), Reece James (Chelsea), Conor Coady (Wolves), Ben Chilwell (Chelsea), Kieran Trippier (Atletico Madrid)

Midfielders: Mason Mount (Chelsea), Declan Rice (West Ham), Jordan Henderson (Liverpool), Jude Bellingham (Borussia Dortmund), Kalvin Phillips (Leeds)

Forwards: Harry Kane (Tottenham), Marcus Rashford (Man Utd), Raheem Sterling (Man City), Dominic Calvert-Lewin (Everton), Phil Foden (Man City), Jack Grealish (Aston Villa), Jadon Sancho (Borussia Dortmund), Bukayo Saka (Arsenal)

Scorebox

Dubai Sports City Eagles 7 Bahrain 88

Eagles

Try: Penalty

Bahrain

Tries: Gibson 2, Morete 2, Bishop 2, Bell 2, Behan, Fameitau, Sanson, Roberts, Bennett, Radley

Cons: Radley 4, Whittingham 5

SPECS
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.4-litre%204-cylinder%20turbo%20hybrid%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20366hp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E550Nm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESix-speed%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20From%20Dh360%2C000%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EAvailable%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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UAE fixtures
May 9, v Malaysia
May 10, v Qatar
May 13, v Malaysia
May 15, v Qatar
May 18 and 19, semi-finals
May 20, final

Tenet

Director: Christopher Nolan

Stars: John David Washington, Robert Pattinson, Elizabeth Debicki, Dimple Kapadia, Michael Caine, Kenneth Branagh 

Rating: 5/5

The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
Specs

Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request

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Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
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  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
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The specs

Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6

Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm

Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm

Transmission: Eight-speed auto

Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)

On sale: Now

PAST 10 BRITISH GRAND PRIX WINNERS

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2015 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2014 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2013 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes-GP)
2012 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2011 - Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
2010 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2009 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2008 - Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
2007 - Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)

David Haye record

Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4

Race card

1.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 50,000 (Dirt) 1,400m

2pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 84,000 (D) 1,400m

2.30pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 60,000 (D) 1,200m

3pm: Conditions (TB) Dh 100,000 (D) 1.950m

3.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 76,000 (D) 1,800m

4pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 60,000 (D) 1,600m

4.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 68,000 (D) 1,000m

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

RESULTS

6.30pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (Dirt) 1.600m
Winner: Miller’s House, Richard Mullen (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).

7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Kanood, Adrie de Vries, Fawzi Nass.

7.50pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Gervais, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

8.15pm: The Garhoud Sprint Listed (TB) Dh 132,500 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Important Mission, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.

8.50pm: The Entisar Listed (TB) Dh 132,500 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Firnas, Xavier Ziani, Salem bin Ghadayer.

9.25pm: Conditions (TB) Dh 120,000 (D) 1,400m
Winner: Zhou Storm, Connor Beasley, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
 
Started: 2021
 
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
 
Based: Tunisia 
 
Sector: Water technology 
 
Number of staff: 22 
 
Investment raised: $4 million 
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Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

Updated: February 09, 2023, 10:34 AM`