A tour of Australia's most misunderstood tourist town


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It is widely derided as Perth's worst neighbourhood, yet in reality, Rockingham is one of the city’s best attractions due to its rare wildlife and pristine beaches. About 47 kilometres south of downtown Perth, the capital of Western Australia, Rockingham is a suburb with world-class attributes.

It has 35km of magnificent beaches, a scenic waterfront dining precinct, a wild peninsula with great hiking trails and a marine park where tourists can dive with dolphins, meet the world's smallest penguins and soon swim alongside seals.

Rockingham is home to a seal colony. Photo: Ronan O'Connell
Rockingham is home to a seal colony. Photo: Ronan O'Connell

Currently, people cannot go within 50 metres of the seals, which are a protected species. But in the coming months, tourists will be able to do supervised dives with seals in Rockingham’s Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, where they can also see endangered Australian sea lions.

Visitors won’t need to worry about crowds. Few people from Perth go to Rockingham, which is incorrectly assumed to be rundown and dangerous by many. So poor is Rockingham’s reputation that a controversy was sparked when I recently included it on an Ultimate Western Australia itinerary for Lonely Planet.

Perth news websites and television stations ran stories about this apparent “shock” development, and I was asked to do two radio interviews with Australia’s State media outlet, ABC. Both times, I was grilled about why I’d picked Rockingham by the bemused hosts, one of whom read out emails from incredulous listeners and the other of whom had never heard of Shoalwater.

A dining precinct looks out over the beach in Rockingham. Photo: Ronan O'Connell
A dining precinct looks out over the beach in Rockingham. Photo: Ronan O'Connell

That surprised me, because I believe Shoalwater is Perth’s most distinctive tourist attraction. There are very few metropolitan locations in the world where tourists can swim with dolphins, seals and penguins in the wild. I’m in a unique position to judge Rockingham as I’ve lived there for years, but have also visited 60-plus countries as a travel journalist. So I have a critical eye for tourist destinations, rather than being blinded by bias.

Because most Perth residents avoid Rockingham, they don’t realise it’s actually safe, clean, modern, easily accessible by train, and terrifically unspoilt due to the lack of development along its coastline. This benefits tourists, as it means Rockingham is never busy, even in Australia’s summer months, from December to February. The best time to visit is between October and May, which avoids the area’s stormy winter and coincides with the opening season of Penguin Island.

Tourists have several ways to reach this small, beach-ringed island, only 800 metres from the mainland. They can catch the hourly ferry between 9am and 4pm, hire a kayak and paddle over, or walk across a sandbar at low tide. Along the way, they traverse the crystalline waters of Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, sheltered in a bay fringed by coral reefs.

The bay in Shoalwater Islands Marine Park remains wonderfully placid most of the day. Photo: Ronan O'Connell
The bay in Shoalwater Islands Marine Park remains wonderfully placid most of the day. Photo: Ronan O'Connell

That natural barrier ensures the bay remains wonderfully placid most of the day, making it perfect for swimming, snorkelling and stand-up paddle boarding. It’s also a key reason Shoalwater is home to so many rare marine animals. Three times a day, visitors can attend Penguin Island Discovery Centre to watch little penguins (Eudyptula minor) swim in its pool and get fed by park rangers, who explain the behaviours and biology of this species.

The island is home to about 1,000 of these penguins, which are only 40cm tall and 1kg in weight, on average. When they’re not putting on a show for visitors, they can be seen gliding around Shoalwater Bay, or diving into the darker seas east of the island to devour pilchards.

Those deeper waters are also home to a seal colony. While Rockingham skies are constantly busy with pelicans, eagles, cormorants and ospreys, which appreciate Penguin Island’s absence of predators, its seals only reveal themselves occasionally.

This is why tourists are advised to join tours run by Perth Wildlife Encounters. They have one-hour dolphin, seal and sea lion cruises (Dh150 per person), six-hour swimming with dolphin experiences (Dh620), and six-hour sea kayaking tours of Shoalwater (Dh470).

Rockingham can also be enjoyed without venturing out into the ocean. Shoalwater Bay is bordered to its north by Point Peron, a sliver of serene, green wilderness which feels remote. Hiking trails pierce its lush bushland, and hug the edge of sea cliffs, leading to several majestic beaches, each flanked by reefs teeming with fish.

These sandy hideaways are spectacular picnic locations. Stock up on snacks and drinks at the large Rockingham Centre, which has more than 140 shops and supermarkets. Or go to one of the local butchers, buy a haul of Western Australia’s renowned beef, lobsters and prawns, and head to any of the dozen or so beachfront parks in Rockingham to cook a feast on the free public barbecue.

Rockingham foreshore is tailor-made for this. Stretching along a calm, white sand beach for more than 2km, this public park is lined by wide grassy lawns, several children’s playgrounds and many roofed tables and benches for dining.

Or you can leave the cooking to the professionals and watch boats bob in the ocean from one of the restaurants and cafes at the southern end of that park. This recently redeveloped area also has a boardwalk, grassed amphitheatre and a jetty that’s popular for fishing. It all sounds pretty idyllic, doesn’t it? So if you like your ghettos decorated by pretty parks, populated by rare marine life and brimming with unique tourist activities, Rockingham is the so-called slum for you.

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RESULTS

Catchweight 82kg
Piotr Kuberski (POL) beat Ahmed Saeb (IRQ) by decision.

Women’s bantamweight
Corinne Laframboise (CAN) beat Cornelia Holm (SWE) by unanimous decision.

Welterweight
Omar Hussein (PAL) beat Vitalii Stoian (UKR) by unanimous decision.

Welterweight
Josh Togo (LEB) beat Ali Dyusenov (UZB) by unanimous decision.

Flyweight
Isaac Pimentel (BRA) beat Delfin Nawen (PHI) TKO round-3.

Catchweight 80kg​​​​​​​
Seb Eubank (GBR) beat Emad Hanbali (SYR) KO round 1.

Lightweight
Mohammad Yahya (UAE) beat Ramadan Noaman (EGY) TKO round 2.

Lightweight
Alan Omer (GER) beat Reydon Romero (PHI) submission 1.

Welterweight
Juho Valamaa (FIN) beat Ahmed Labban (LEB) by unanimous decision.

Featherweight
Elias Boudegzdame (ALG) beat Austin Arnett (USA) by unanimous decision.

Super heavyweight
Maciej Sosnowski (POL) beat Ibrahim El Sawi (EGY) by submission round 1.

CHATGPT%20ENTERPRISE%20FEATURES
%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Enterprise-grade%20security%20and%20privacy%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Unlimited%20higher-speed%20GPT-4%20access%20with%20no%20caps%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Longer%20context%20windows%20for%20processing%20longer%20inputs%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Advanced%20data%20analysis%20capabilities%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Customisation%20options%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Shareable%20chat%20templates%20that%20companies%20can%20use%20to%20collaborate%20and%20build%20common%20workflows%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Analytics%20dashboard%20for%20usage%20insights%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Free%20credits%20to%20use%20OpenAI%20APIs%20to%20extend%20OpenAI%20into%20a%20fully-custom%20solution%20for%20enterprises%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

Anghami
Started: December 2011
Co-founders: Elie Habib, Eddy Maroun
Based: Beirut and Dubai
Sector: Entertainment
Size: 85 employees
Stage: Series C
Investors: MEVP, du, Mobily, MBC, Samena Capital

COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Revibe%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202022%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Hamza%20Iraqui%20and%20Abdessamad%20Ben%20Zakour%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Refurbished%20electronics%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunds%20raised%20so%20far%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%2410m%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFlat6Labs%2C%20Resonance%20and%20various%20others%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
'The Last Days of Ptolemy Grey'

Rating: 3/5

Directors: Ramin Bahrani, Debbie Allen, Hanelle Culpepper, Guillermo Navarro

Writers: Walter Mosley

Stars: Samuel L Jackson, Dominique Fishback, Walton Goggins

Company Profile

Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million

The Voice of Hind Rajab

Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees

Director: Kaouther Ben Hania

Rating: 4/5

The specs
Engine: 2.4-litre 4-cylinder

Transmission: CVT auto

Power: 181bhp

Torque: 244Nm

Price: Dh122,900 

Visit Abu Dhabi culinary team's top Emirati restaurants in Abu Dhabi

Yadoo’s House Restaurant & Cafe

For the karak and Yoodo's house platter with includes eggs, balaleet, khamir and chebab bread.

Golden Dallah

For the cappuccino, luqaimat and aseeda.

Al Mrzab Restaurant

For the shrimp murabian and Kuwaiti options including Kuwaiti machboos with kebab and spicy sauce.

Al Derwaza

For the fish hubul, regag bread, biryani and special seafood soup. 

Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

Top investing tips for UAE residents in 2021

Build an emergency fund: Make sure you have enough cash to cover six months of expenses as a buffer against unexpected problems before you begin investing, advises Steve Cronin, the founder of DeadSimpleSaving.com.

Think long-term: When you invest, you need to have a long-term mindset, so don’t worry about momentary ups and downs in the stock market.

Invest worldwide: Diversify your investments globally, ideally by way of a global stock index fund.

Is your money tied up: Avoid anything where you cannot get your money back in full within a month at any time without any penalty.

Skip past the promises: “If an investment product is offering more than 10 per cent return per year, it is either extremely risky or a scam,” Mr Cronin says.

Choose plans with low fees: Make sure that any funds you buy do not charge more than 1 per cent in fees, Mr Cronin says. “If you invest by yourself, you can easily stay below this figure.” Managed funds and commissionable investments often come with higher fees.

Be sceptical about recommendations: If someone suggests an investment to you, ask if they stand to gain, advises Mr Cronin. “If they are receiving commission, they are unlikely to recommend an investment that’s best for you.”

Get financially independent: Mr Cronin advises UAE residents to pursue financial independence. Start with a Google search and improve your knowledge via expat investing websites or Facebook groups such as SimplyFI. 

Living in...

This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.

Company profile

Name: Steppi

Founders: Joe Franklin and Milos Savic

Launched: February 2020

Size: 10,000 users by the end of July and a goal of 200,000 users by the end of the year

Employees: Five

Based: Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai

Financing stage: Two seed rounds – the first sourced from angel investors and the founders' personal savings

Second round raised Dh720,000 from silent investors in June this year

England v South Africa schedule
  • First Test: Starts Thursday, Lord's, 2pm (UAE)
  • Second Test: July 14-18, Trent Bridge, Nottingham, 2pm
  • Third Test: The Oval, London, July 27-31, 2pm
  • Fourth Test: Old Trafford, Manchester, August 4-8
RESULTS

5pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (Dirt) 1,400m

Winner AF Nashrah, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer)

5.30pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,400m

Winner Mutaqadim, Riccardo Iacopini, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami.

6pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner Hameem, Jose Santiago, Abdallah Al Hammadi.

6.30pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner AF Almomayaz, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

7pm Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,800m

Winner Dalil Al Carrere, Fernando Jara, Mohamed Daggash.

7.30pm Handicap (TB) Dh70,000 (D) 1,000m

Winner Lahmoom, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.

8pm Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,000m

Winner Jayide Al Boraq, Bernardo Pinheiro, Khalifa Al Neyadi.

Infiniti QX80 specs

Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6

Power: 450hp

Torque: 700Nm

Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000

Available: Now

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Updated: November 30, 2022, 5:22 PM`