Nayla Cortas pulls a deep inhale through gritted teeth, grimacing at the throbbing pain as the ice-cold water surrounds her swollen ankles and runs over her bruised and blistered toes.
She opens her eyes, red and exhausted, and stares into a plastic bowl where her feet are finally rested, fully submerged in a concoction of ice-water and antiseptic fluid.
"I ask myself, 'why am I doing this?'" Nayla tells The National in the quiet of the Iris Flower Hotel room in Jezzine.
It was the middle of the day, about 1.30pm, and Nayla and her friend and mentor Ali Kedami, had stopped to rest after running for more than 16 hours covering the 82km between Fallougha and Jezzine along the Lebanon Mountain Trail (LMT).
She would only have two more hours of respite, time enough to eat and get a brief nap, before getting up, pulling on her running shoes, and continuing towards the finish line of Marjaayoun … a further 81 kilometres away.
The thought of putting any more weight into her feet, shredded from the rough terrain of Lebanon’s mountains, was enough to bring tears to a tired and emotional Cortas.
“Maybe it’s infected. When I first saw my feet, I had thought that this would prevent me from continuing. I felt depressed after all this effort.”
It had been a monumental effort; this was the sixth day of an ultra-running challenge to traverse the entire 460km of the LMT in record time. In order to do that, Nayla and Ali would have to get to Marjaayoun in under 32 hours. The clock was ticking.
Cortas completing the run was never part of the plan; she had initially agreed to be a support runner for Kedami, an experienced ultra-runner with 14 ultra-marathon races and numerous long distance challenges under his belt.
It was his project to run the LMT in record time and he had asked for Nayla to start with him; that she could stop and rest whenever she wanted to.
“He told me if I feel I am able to do it, to continue. I didn't want to have pressure to finish,” remembers Cortas.
At this point, there was nothing more alluring to her than the desire to stop. Cortas was sleep-deprived, her body was aching for stillness, yet she had come so far.
It was 4.08am on Sunday April 25, 2021, when Nayla and Ali first started running, setting off from the northern town of Aandqet. Using headlamps to navigate the dirt roads and farm tracks in the darkness, they searched for the purple and white blazes that marked the way along the LMT.
They started strong, ascending and descending the mountains of northern Mount Lebanon at pace, knocking off the 80km of the first day almost entirely as per the schedule; by the end of day one they were already 20km before where the current record holder, Patrick Vaughan had spent his first night.
Their strategy to beat Vaughan’s fastest known time (FKT) of six days 17 hours and 25 minutes, had been to run slower but for longer, minimising the resting time. The initial schedule would have had them crossing the finishing line in less than six days.
However, the LMT that runs down the spine of Lebanon, connecting 76 towns and villages via historic footpaths and tracks, can easily foil the best-conceived plans.
Much of the trail includes steep climbs and sharp descents around jagged mountain sides and valleys, with around 20,000 meters of elevation from start to finish.
The terrain can be rocky, awkward and technical, and the trail-markers are often missing, washed away by the winter rains or difficult to find.
The intensity of the ups and downs weighed heavily on the knees of Kedami (59). This, along with the suffocating heat that sapped the runners’ energy; meant that their progress began to slow. By the end of the third day the pair had fallen around 40km short of their planned resting place, stopping in Aaqora.
“It’s too much,” an exhausted Kedami explained to the support-cum-film crew when talking about the concentration of elevation.
Fearing that the record would start to run away from them, they agreed on a new strategy that would preserve energy and keep them moving for approximately 18 hours per day.
“To break the record, we think we should stay in a tent for no more than five or six hours during the day, and run during the night, as the days are too hot.” Kedami explained during a run between Aaqoura and Baskinta.
With the help of the dedicated support crew, the runners planned the stopping points so they would sleep in tents along the trail when necessary, removing any time wasted travelling to and from guesthouses.
It was day three that the pain started to really set in for Cortas, with her ankles beginning to swell.
“I know this kind of pain; you feel it when you try to move, but can’t lift your foot from the ground,” Nayla remembers. “I thought, ‘That's it, it has started.’”
Any ultra-runner will confirm, enduring and managing pain comes with the territory of the sport. During the months of training in the lead up to this event, Kedami and Cortas’ training had included building up a higher threshold for pain, as well as for their body to endure longer distances while taking on less water.
As a pharmacist by trade, Cortas came prepared with remedies, using every resting stop as an opportunity to apply a combination of anti-inflammatory creams, sprays and pain relief to her feet and ankles.
“I needed to act quickly to prevent it from getting worse,” says Cortas.
As the days wore on, it wasn’t just the physical ailments or unforgiving terrain that burdened each step. An intense mental battle raged in the minds of both athletes. Nayla found herself battling the overwhelming sensations of depression as she ran in silence for hours along the trail.
“The worst moments were when I felt lonely, I don’t know why.” Cortas would use her breaks to try to connect with her friends and family. “Time was running quickly, you need to talk to your mom, to your friends but no one is around.”
Support was at hand. As Kedami and Cortas pressed on further towards the finish, their efforts caught the attention of the Lebanese running community on social media. Friends who they run with on weekends came up to pace the final sections of the trail, a much needed distraction.
“I consider them as very close friends, and we have been running trails a lot together, we have a lot of memories,” says Cortas, “They make us forget the fatigue, the pain and the heat during the day.”
The support worked to lift the spirits of Cortas and Kedami. The change in strategy also worked, and as their bodies adapted to the continuous physical strain and recovered quicker during resting stops. As a result, they consistently racked up 70km on days four, five and six, chipping away at the deficit accumulated over the previous slower days.
Despite this, the initial target to finish in under six days became unobtainable. Kedami and Cortas would now aim to set a new record by as many hours as possible.
“I decided to direct the team towards another goal, that of accepting the idea of not being able to beat the record. After the pressure was released, I was able to concentrate on a new strategy,” explains Kedami.
During the final sections the pair found themselves in esteemed company, supported by both Avedis Kalpaklian, the first man to set a fastest known time on the LMT and by current record-holder Vaughan.
“I’m excited, I told Ali four years ago I wanted him to break the record, when he helped me set it then (in 2017). So I have been looking forward to this, and having Nayla do it as well is super exciting,” said Vaughan.
Kedami and Cortas set off on the final stretch from Jezzine at 15.55pm, knowing they wouldn’t sleep again until they crossed the Beqaa Valley some 11 hours later. With a team of support runners and aid stations set up along the way, they pressed on.
As the sun climbed into the morphing skies over Mount Hermon, Kedami and Cortas arose from a brief nap at Rachaiya. Cortas once again cleaned and redressed her calloused feet for the final push towards Marjaayoun. It was the seventh day, every hour that passed brought with it the weight of expectation. Would they make it in time?
“I just want this to be over,” Cortas said at one point. Whatever happens now, stopping was not an option.
Finally they could see it, the historic town of Marjaayoun, on top of of a hillside skirted with refugee settlements, the children of which came out to greet the runners. The final climb was 2km with 100 metres of ascent, the fitting end to a mammoth challenge.
Upon completing the last uphill, they rounded a corner passing through the town square towards the support crew, local TV stations and jubilant family and friends.
At 4.23pm on Saturday May1, 2021, Ali Kedami and Nayla Cortas completed the Lebanon Mountain Trail, setting a new FKT of six days, 12 hours and 15 minutes.
As they collected the hugs and high-fives from the team that had supported them through the week, the pair became overwhelmed with emotion and relief. Kedami was embraced by his daughter Saria, his main inspiration for running.
“In the worst moments of pain and the urge to quit I always hear my daughter Saria's voice telling me that we never give up,” Kedami said.
When Cortas crossed the line in Marjaayoun, she made history as the first woman to through-run the LMT.
She had spoken on the trail about how she had experienced societal pressures to act in a certain way, i.e. to cut down on the running and focus more on finding a partner and starting her own family. After her feet were once again submerged in ice water and antiseptic, Nayla had a clear message.
“I hope this inspires other women to challenge themselves, and be leaders in doing what they love. I hope they will be inspired to do what they love and not to care about other people's opinion,” she said.
Award-winning Lebanese filmmaker Bachar Khattar documented Nayla Cortas and Ali Kedami’s record-breaking run of the Lebanon Mountain Trail. The film is expected for release next year.
The five pillars of Islam
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
More coverage from the Future Forum
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
CONFIRMED%20LINE-UP
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Graduated from the American University of Sharjah
She is the eldest of three brothers and two sisters
Has helped solve 15 cases of electric shocks
Enjoys travelling, reading and horse riding
The five pillars of Islam
The biog
Favourite hobby: taking his rescue dog, Sally, for long walks.
Favourite book: anything by Stephen King, although he said the films rarely match the quality of the books
Favourite film: The Shawshank Redemption stands out as his favourite movie, a classic King novella
Favourite music: “I have a wide and varied music taste, so it would be unfair to pick a single song from blues to rock as a favourite"
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
GOLF’S RAHMBO
- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)
Know your Camel lingo
The bairaq is a competition for the best herd of 50 camels, named for the banner its winner takes home
Namoos - a word of congratulations reserved for falconry competitions, camel races and camel pageants. It best translates as 'the pride of victory' - and for competitors, it is priceless
Asayel camels - sleek, short-haired hound-like racers
Majahim - chocolate-brown camels that can grow to weigh two tonnes. They were only valued for milk until camel pageantry took off in the 1990s
Millions Street - the thoroughfare where camels are led and where white 4x4s throng throughout the festival
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Checks continue
A High Court judge issued an interim order on Friday suspending a decision by Agriculture Minister Edwin Poots to direct a stop to Brexit agri-food checks at Northern Ireland ports.
Mr Justice Colton said he was making the temporary direction until a judicial review of the minister's unilateral action this week to order a halt to port checks that are required under the Northern Ireland Protocol.
Civil servants have yet to implement the instruction, pending legal clarity on their obligations, and checks are continuing.
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
'Panga'
Directed by Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari
Starring Kangana Ranaut, Richa Chadha, Jassie Gill, Yagya Bhasin, Neena Gupta
Rating: 3.5/5
Evacuations to France hit by controversy
- Over 500 Gazans have been evacuated to France since November 2023
- Evacuations were paused after a student already in France posted anti-Semitic content and was subsequently expelled to Qatar
- The Foreign Ministry launched a review to determine how authorities failed to detect the posts before her entry
- Artists and researchers fall under a programme called Pause that began in 2017
- It has benefited more than 700 people from 44 countries, including Syria, Turkey, Iran, and Sudan
- Since the start of the Gaza war, it has also included 45 Gazan beneficiaries
- Unlike students, they are allowed to bring their families to France
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
More from our Neighbourhood series:
Zayed Sustainability Prize
The burning issue
The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on
Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins
Read part one: how cars came to the UAE
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Infiniti QX80 specs
Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6
Power: 450hp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000
Available: Now
The years Ramadan fell in May
Zayed Sustainability Prize
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Zayed Sustainability Prize
More from Neighbourhood Watch
The years Ramadan fell in May
LAST-16 FIXTURES
Sunday, January 20
3pm: Jordan v Vietnam at Al Maktoum Stadium, Dubai
6pm: Thailand v China at Hazza bin Zayed Stadium, Al Ain
9pm: Iran v Oman at Mohamed bin Zayed Stadium, Abu Dhabi
Monday, January 21
3pm: Japan v Saudi Arabia at Sharjah Stadium
6pm: Australia v Uzbekistan at Khalifa bin Zayed Stadium, Al Ain
9pm: UAE v Kyrgyzstan at Zayed Sports City Stadium, Abu Dhabi
Tuesday, January 22
5pm: South Korea v Bahrain at Rashid Stadium, Dubai
8pm: Qatar v Iraq at Al Nahyan Stadium, Abu Dhabi
Emergency
Director: Kangana Ranaut
Stars: Kangana Ranaut, Anupam Kher, Shreyas Talpade, Milind Soman, Mahima Chaudhry
Rating: 2/5
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Essentials
The flights
Return flights from Dubai to Windhoek, with a combination of Emirates and Air Namibia, cost from US$790 (Dh2,902) via Johannesburg.
The trip
A 10-day self-drive in Namibia staying at a combination of the safari camps mentioned – Okonjima AfriCat, Little Kulala, Desert Rhino/Damaraland, Ongava – costs from $7,000 (Dh25,711) per person, including car hire (Toyota 4x4 or similar), but excluding international flights, with The Luxury Safari Company.
When to go
The cooler winter months, from June to September, are best, especially for game viewing.
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
The%20Sandman
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Anghami
Started: December 2011
Co-founders: Elie Habib, Eddy Maroun
Based: Beirut and Dubai
Sector: Entertainment
Size: 85 employees
Stage: Series C
Investors: MEVP, du, Mobily, MBC, Samena Capital
'Skin'
Dir: Guy Nattiv
Starring: Jamie Bell, Danielle McDonald, Bill Camp, Vera Farmiga
Rating: 3.5/5 stars
Farage on Muslim Brotherhood
Nigel Farage told Reform's annual conference that the party will proscribe the Muslim Brotherhood if he becomes Prime Minister.
"We will stop dangerous organisations with links to terrorism operating in our country," he said. "Quite why we've been so gutless about this – both Labour and Conservative – I don't know.
“All across the Middle East, countries have banned and proscribed the Muslim Brotherhood as a dangerous organisation. We will do the very same.”
It is 10 years since a ground-breaking report into the Muslim Brotherhood by Sir John Jenkins.
Among the former diplomat's findings was an assessment that “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” has “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
The prime minister at the time, David Cameron, who commissioned the report, said membership or association with the Muslim Brotherhood was a "possible indicator of extremism" but it would not be banned.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
Friday’s fixture
6.15pm: Al Wahda v Hatta
6.15pm: Al Dhafra v Ajman
9pm: Al Wasl v Baniyas
9pm: Fujairah v Sharjah
.
ROUTE%20TO%20TITLE
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Schedule for Asia Cup
Sept 15: Bangladesh v Sri Lanka (Dubai)
Sept 16: Pakistan v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 17: Sri Lanka v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 18: India v Qualifier (Dubai)
Sept 19: India v Pakistan (Dubai)
Sept 20: Bangladesh v Afghanistan (Abu Dhabi) Super Four
Sept 21: Group A Winner v Group B Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 21: Group B Winner v Group A Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 23: Group A Winner v Group A Runner-up (Dubai)
Sept 23: Group B Winner v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 25: Group A Winner v Group B Winner (Dubai)
Sept 26: Group A Runner-up v Group B Runner-up (Abu Dhabi)
Sept 28: Final (Dubai)
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Drishyam 2
Directed by: Jeethu Joseph
Starring: Mohanlal, Meena, Ansiba, Murali Gopy
Rating: 4 stars
Jigra
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
MATCH INFO
Manchester United 2
(Martial 30', McTominay 90 6')
Manchester City 0
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Teaching in coronavirus times
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
How to tell if your child is being bullied at school
Sudden change in behaviour or displays higher levels of stress or anxiety
Shows signs of depression or isolation
Ability to sleep well diminishes
Academic performance begins to deteriorate
Changes in eating habits
Struggles to concentrate
Refuses to go to school
Behaviour changes and is aggressive towards siblings
Begins to use language they do not normally use
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
TOP 5 DRIVERS 2019
1 Lewis Hamilton, Mercedes, 10 wins 387 points
2 Valtteri Bottas, Mercedes, 4 wins, 314 points
3 Max Verstappen, Red Bull, 3 wins, 260 points
4 Charles Leclerc, Ferrari, 2 wins, 249 points
5 Sebastian Vettel, Ferrari, 1 win, 230 points
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo
Power: 178hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 280Nm at 1,350-4,200rpm
Transmission: seven-speed dual-clutch auto
Price: from Dh209,000
On sale: now
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
- Do not drive outside designated lanes
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
KINGDOM%20OF%20THE%20PLANET%20OF%20THE%20APES
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Wes%20Ball%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Owen%20Teague%2C%20Freya%20Allen%2C%20Kevin%20Durand%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Vidaamuyarchi
Director: Magizh Thirumeni
Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra
Rating: 4/5
Three tips from La Perle's performers
1 The kind of water athletes drink is important. Gwilym Hooson, a 28-year-old British performer who is currently recovering from knee surgery, found that out when the company was still in Studio City, training for 12 hours a day. “The physio team was like: ‘Why is everyone getting cramps?’ And then they realised we had to add salt and sugar to the water,” he says.
2 A little chocolate is a good thing. “It’s emergency energy,” says Craig Paul Smith, La Perle’s head coach and former Cirque du Soleil performer, gesturing to an almost-empty open box of mini chocolate bars on his desk backstage.
3 Take chances, says Young, who has worked all over the world, including most recently at Dragone’s show in China. “Every time we go out of our comfort zone, we learn a lot about ourselves,” she says.
ONCE UPON A TIME IN GAZA
Starring: Nader Abd Alhay, Majd Eid, Ramzi Maqdisi
Directors: Tarzan and Arab Nasser
Rating: 4.5/5
Going grey? A stylist's advice
If you’re going to go grey, a great style, well-cared for hair (in a sleek, classy style, like a bob), and a young spirit and attitude go a long way, says Maria Dowling, founder of the Maria Dowling Salon in Dubai.
It’s easier to go grey from a lighter colour, so you may want to do that first. And this is the time to try a shorter style, she advises. Then a stylist can introduce highlights, start lightening up the roots, and let it fade out. Once it’s entirely grey, a purple shampoo will prevent yellowing.
“Get professional help – there’s no other way to go around it,” she says. “And don’t just let it grow out because that looks really bad. Put effort into it: properly condition, straighten, get regular trims, make sure it’s glossy.”
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
THREE
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