This week we mark a sombre milestone, with the 10th anniversary of the protests that ignited the Syrian civil war. Like so many conflicts, it is hard to pinpoint an exact moment when the descent into all-out war became inevitable; but for me personally, my mind returns again and again to a trip I made with CNN to Zabadani, a mountain town near Syria's border with Lebanon.
It was at the beginning of 2012, and we were accompanying monitors from the Arab League, trying to investigate exactly what was going on in the increasingly impenetrable shadows of the growing conflict.
Weaving our way through army checkpoints on our way into the town there was a clear sense that we were entering a war zone. We encountered civilians, families fleeing on foot with only basic possessions.
As we entered Zabadani’s centre, thousands of anti-Assad regime protesters and townspeople greeted us as though we were their saviours. While my colleague Nic Robertson filmed a piece to camera, I found myself hoisted on to the shoulders of the crowd, carried along with the monitors in a moment of wild celebration at our arrival. We soon understood why.
“Every morning there is gunfire," one woman explained to us. We were told two or three people had been killed, as many as sixty injured. Water, electricity and phone lines had been cut off. “They are killing us!” a man shouted to us, imploringly. The town was essentially under siege.
The Arab League monitors tried to get details of what was going on amid the bedlam. We heard that a group of military defectors had assembled around 70 Free Syrian Army fighters in the town, although we couldn’t see them.
Then, as we tried to leave, the atmosphere suddenly changed. Sensing that the departure of the monitors would leave the town exposed to the surrounding regime forces, people angrily blocked our way. Our group was forced down to the dangerous front line, towards soldiers who were not expecting us.
There was a tense standoff. The monitors waved their orange coloured jackets to signal who they were. Soldiers approached us, and seeing our cameras, brought out the body of one of their dead. “Film this!” they demanded. “Is this the freedom you want? Is this what the world wants? Is this the Syria you are looking for?”
Finally, barriers were cleared from the road and we were allowed to leave. As we did so, machine gun fire rang out around us. We accelerated across a sort of no-man’s land, past the regime soldiers to safety. It wasn’t clear who was firing, or at whom.
Looking back at the footage now it seems at once impossible to believe that a decade of bloody war would grab Syria by the throat, and inevitable. Syria's conflict has been characterised by confusion, frustration, intransigence, obfuscation and cruelty. All of those were on display in Zabadani that day.
A few things changed in my life in the ensuing decade. I withdrew from my role as a field producer, became CNN’s London bureau chief and took charge of day-to-day newsgathering for the Europe, Middle East and Africa region and now internationally. This meant that I was sending teams into Syria rather than joining them myself, and that brought with it a different dimension of fear and frustration.
The fear was down to the fact that there were times when Syria became an almost impossibly dangerous place for journalists to work. The targeting of reporters was nothing new; we had seen it since the Balkan conflict in the 1980s. The risk that a journalist could be captured, tortured and even murdered in an unspeakably horrifying way, combined with the constant risk of indiscriminate use of air strikes, barrel bombs and even chemical attacks, meant that every assignment needed fresh levels of meticulous safety planning.
The frustration, as any of my colleagues will tell you, is that sometimes those risks were just too great. Among the worst aspects of the Syria conflict from a journalist’s perspective is the fact that so many stories were left untold. Worse still though are the memories of friends, colleagues and fellow journalists who never returned from assignments. Few conflicts have ever needed journalists as much as Syria has, and few have been so deadly for our profession.
The difficulty of maintaining audiences’ interest in the Syria story has also been an immense challenge. Even amid the horrors of chemical weapons attacks, indiscriminate bombings and other callous cruelties, there is a point at which audiences become fatigued. As the conflict mutated into perhaps the greatest refugee crisis the world has ever known that challenge became even greater.
Something else changed for me personally over the past 10 years; I got married and now have two children. Looking back at the footage of our Zabadani report this week I was struck by some of the faces in the crowd that greeted us with such joy: children, some as young as nine or 10, jumping excitedly in the melee, or toddlers in their mothers’ arms.
The story of Syria is as important now as it has been since that day
A new report from the International Committee of the Red Cross on Wednesday revealed the "profound psychological toll" the conflict has taken on Syria's youth. Over half of the 1,400 young Syrians interviewed across Syria, Lebanon and Germany experienced sleep disorders, while 73 per cent experienced anxiety and 58 per cent experienced depression, the ICRC said.
The experience of those young people impacted by the conflict is characterised by frustration, solitude and distress, the report outlined. They need psychological support, economic opportunities, access to education and health care.
Many of those children I saw that day in Zabadani are now adults. Their lives will have been forever changed by what was still to come. All will have experienced hardship and loss; some may not even have survived. My colleague Arwa Damon will this week profile a Syrian child in a new piece for CNN, a boy born in Idlib at the outset of the conflict, who has known nothing but the war.
The story of Syria is as important now as it has been since that day. The region and the world have been changed forever by this most brutal of conflicts, and even while the world faces new and profound challenges, we must never allow our eyes to stray from the plight of a country and a people that have suffered so very much.
Thomas Evans is vice president, international newsgathering, and London bureau chief at CNN
Brave CF 27 fight card
Welterweight:
Abdoul Abdouraguimov (champion, FRA) v Jarrah Al Selawe (JOR)
Lightweight:
Anas Siraj Mounir (TUN) v Alex Martinez (CAN)
Welterweight:
Mzwandile Hlongwa (RSA) v Khamzat Chimaev (SWE)
Middleweight:
Tarek Suleiman (SYR) v Rustam Chsiev (RUS)
Mohammad Fakhreddine (LEB) v Christofer Silva (BRA)
Super lightweight:
Alex Nacfur (BRA) v Dwight Brooks (USA)
Bantamweight:
Jalal Al Daaja (JOR) v Tariq Ismail (CAN)
Chris Corton (PHI) v Zia Mashwani (PAK)
Featherweight:
Sulaiman (KUW) v Abdullatip (RUS)
Super lightweight:
Flavio Serafin (BRA) v Mohammad Al Katib (JOR)
India cancels school-leaving examinations
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Race card:
6.30pm: Baniyas (PA) Group 2 Dh195,000 1,400m.
7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 1,400m.
7.40pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 1,200m.
8.15pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 1,200m.
8.50pm: Rated Conditions (TB) Dh240,000 1,600m.
9.20pm: Handicap (TB) Dh165,000 1,400m.
10pm: Handicap (TB) Dh175,000 2,000m.
SPECS
Engine: Two-litre four-cylinder turbo
Power: 235hp
Torque: 350Nm
Transmission: Nine-speed automatic
Price: From Dh167,500 ($45,000)
On sale: Now
if you go
The Written World: How Literature Shaped History
Martin Puchner
Granta
Frankenstein in Baghdad
Ahmed Saadawi
Penguin Press
Shubh Mangal Saavdhan
Directed by: RS Prasanna
Starring: Ayushmann Khurrana, Bhumi Pednekar
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
MATCH INFO
World Cup 2022 qualifier
UAE v Indonesia, Thursday, 8pm
Venue: Al Maktoum Stadium, Dubai
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
MWTC info
Tickets to the MWTC range from Dh100 and can be purchased from www.ticketmaster.ae or by calling 800 86 823 from within the UAE or 971 4 366 2289 from outside the country and all Virgin Megastores. Fans looking to attend all three days of the MWTC can avail of a special 20 percent discount on ticket prices.
Children who witnessed blood bath want to help others
Aged just 11, Khulood Al Najjar’s daughter, Nora, bravely attempted to fight off Philip Spence. Her finger was injured when she put her hand in between the claw hammer and her mother’s head.
As a vital witness, she was forced to relive the ordeal by police who needed to identify the attacker and ensure he was found guilty.
Now aged 16, Nora has decided she wants to dedicate her career to helping other victims of crime.
“It was very horrible for her. She saw her mum, dying, just next to her eyes. But now she just wants to go forward,” said Khulood, speaking about how her eldest daughter was dealing with the trauma of the incident five years ago. “She is saying, 'mama, I want to be a lawyer, I want to help people achieve justice'.”
Khulood’s youngest daughter, Fatima, was seven at the time of the attack and attempted to help paramedics responding to the incident.
“Now she wants to be a maxillofacial doctor,” Khulood said. “She said to me ‘it is because a maxillofacial doctor returned your face, mama’. Now she wants to help people see themselves in the mirror again.”
Khulood’s son, Saeed, was nine in 2014 and slept through the attack. While he did not witness the trauma, this made it more difficult for him to understand what had happened. He has ambitions to become an engineer.
More on Quran memorisation:
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?
1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull
2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight
3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge
4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own
5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed
The biog
Name: Salvador Toriano Jr
Age: 59
From: Laguna, The Philippines
Favourite dish: Seabass or Fish and Chips
Hobbies: When he’s not in the restaurant, he still likes to cook, along with walking and meeting up with friends.
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-final, second leg result:
Ajax 2-3 Tottenham
Tottenham advance on away goals rule after tie ends 3-3 on aggregate
Final: June 1, Madrid
Sun jukebox
Rufus Thomas, Bear Cat (The Answer to Hound Dog) (1953)
This rip-off of Leiber/Stoller’s early rock stomper brought a lawsuit against Phillips and necessitated Presley’s premature sale to RCA.
Elvis Presley, Mystery Train (1955)
The B-side of Presley’s final single for Sun bops with a drummer-less groove.
Johnny Cash and the Tennessee Two, Folsom Prison Blues (1955)
Originally recorded for Sun, Cash’s signature tune was performed for inmates of the titular prison 13 years later.
Carl Perkins, Blue Suede Shoes (1956)
Within a month of Sun’s February release Elvis had his version out on RCA.
Roy Orbison, Ooby Dooby (1956)
An essential piece of irreverent juvenilia from Orbison.
Jerry Lee Lewis, Great Balls of Fire (1957)
Lee’s trademark anthem is one of the era’s best-remembered – and best-selling – songs.
Despacito's dominance in numbers
Released: 2017
Peak chart position: No.1 in more than 47 countries, including the United States, the United Kingdom, Australia and Lebanon
Views: 5.3 billion on YouTube
Sales: With 10 million downloads in the US, Despacito became the first Latin single to receive Diamond sales certification
Streams: 1.3 billion combined audio and video by the end of 2017, making it the biggest digital hit of the year.
Awards: 17, including Record of the Year at last year’s prestigious Latin Grammy Awards, as well as five Billboard Music Awards
Not Dark Yet
Shelby Lynne and Allison Moorer
Four stars
The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm
Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)
On sale: Now
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
The specs: 2019 GMC Yukon Denali
Price, base: Dh306,500
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Power: 420hp @ 5,600rpm
Torque: 621Nm @ 4,100rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.9L / 100km
Result
2.15pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,950m; Winner: Majestic Thunder, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).
2.45pm: Handicap Dh80,000 1,800m; Winner: Tailor’s Row, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.
3.15pm: Handicap Dh85,000 1,600m; Winner: Native Appeal, Adam McLean, Doug Watson.
3.45pm: Handicap Dh115,000 1,950m; Winner: Conclusion, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi.
4.15pm: Handicap Dh100,000 1,400m; Winner: Pilgrim’s Treasure, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar.
4.45pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,400m; Winner: Sanad Libya, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.
5.15pm: Handicap Dh90,000 1,000m; Winner: Midlander, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
Learn more about Qasr Al Hosn
In 2013, The National's History Project went beyond the walls to see what life was like living in Abu Dhabi's fabled fort: