The Sharjah National Band regale South Korean music fans with the neyanban at the 2023 Seoul Friendship Festival. Photo: Sharjah Book Authority
The Sharjah National Band regale South Korean music fans with the neyanban at the 2023 Seoul Friendship Festival. Photo: Sharjah Book Authority
The Sharjah National Band regale South Korean music fans with the neyanban at the 2023 Seoul Friendship Festival. Photo: Sharjah Book Authority
The Sharjah National Band regale South Korean music fans with the neyanban at the 2023 Seoul Friendship Festival. Photo: Sharjah Book Authority

From the Scottish Highlands to Sharjah - the remarkable musical journey of the bagpipe


James Langton
  • English
  • Arabic

Lovers of Greek traditional music would have spotted something familiar making a guest appearance during a performance of the Sharjah National Band last week at the Thessaloniki International Book Fair.

Amid the drums and tambourines, the large inflated animal skin with wooden pipes attached bore a striking resemblance to the tsampouna, an instrument still played widely on the islands of Greece.

In fact, they were looking at a neyanban, also known as a habban or jirba, but also a direct ancestor of the bagpipe, a family with more than 130 offspring worldwide.

Played across the Arab countries of the Gulf, the neyanban originates from Persia, specifically Iran’s southern coast and the city of Bushehr. The name, in Farsi, literally translates as “bag pipe.”

The music of Bushehr has developed under the influence of a multicultural society
Mohammadreza Beladi

The neyanban or habban of the UAE is traditionally accompanied by the double-sided Yowah drum, chanting and rhythmic dancing.

Mohammadreza Beladi is devoted to the music of Busherhr, with a doctorate attained last year on the history of the neyanban from the University of Huddersfield in England. He is also director of the Leymer Folk Music and Dance Group of Bushehr.

“The music of Bushehr has developed under the influence of a multicultural society,” he writes in his thesis.

“It is therefore influenced by the culture of immigrant ethnic groups, such as Arabs from the [Arabian] Gulf, Africans, and Indians, on the one hand, and other Iranian ethnic groups within the country.

“This instrument has managed to cross the borders of its traditional area of spread and its sound can now be heard in many countries around the world.”

Beladi’s research identifies bagpipe-like instruments in Persian stone carvings as old as the eighth century BCE. Two figures discovered in south-west Iran in the 19th century appear to be playing bagpipes.

A bagpiper from Al Asayil band plays at the Saturday Market at Al Ain Oasis. Al Ain. Chris Whiteoak / The National
A bagpiper from Al Asayil band plays at the Saturday Market at Al Ain Oasis. Al Ain. Chris Whiteoak / The National

A much later – but still ancient – carving from the time of the Sassanian kings around the 3rd century to the 7th century CE also depict instruments that are almost identical to the neyanban.

All of which came as a bit of a shock to British music historians who had always assumed the bagpipe to be Scottish in origin. In fact, the Highland version is just one more twist in the story of the instrument.

For centuries, Arabs merchants had settled on the Gulf coast of Iran. Many Dubai families have Persian roots. This cross-cultural fertilisation brought the neyanban or versions of the instrument, not just to the UAE but also to Bahrain and Kuwait.

The principle behind all bagpipes is simple. A large animal skin, usually goat, is sewn into a bag, with bamboo pipes attached to one leg. Another leg has a nozzle that allows the bag to be inflated. Pressure from the bag forces air into the pipes, producing musical notes.

The advantage of the bag, Beladi explains in a YouTube video, is that “it enables the musician to play the instrument without blowing all the time”.

Scotland's national piper Louise Marshall plays her 95-year-old Robertson bagpipe at the top of Calton Hill, Edinburgh, ahead of International Bagpipe Day last year. Photo: Jane Barlow
Scotland's national piper Louise Marshall plays her 95-year-old Robertson bagpipe at the top of Calton Hill, Edinburgh, ahead of International Bagpipe Day last year. Photo: Jane Barlow

Roots in Rome

Similarities in appearance suggest the neyanban could have spread from the Middle East to Greece. From there it was a short jump to ancient Rome, where the first-century emperor Nero is known to have been a fan, producing a coin showing him playing the bagpipe.

There are even suggestions that instead of fiddling while Rome burned, as legend has it, the emperor may have been playing the bagpipe.

Roman soldiers took the bagpipe to the eastern edge of the empire – to Britain and as far north as Hadrian’s Wall. A bronze figure of a bagpipe player has been found at the Roman fort of Richborough, near England's Kent coast.

The bagpipe is known to have been part of the musical culture of everywhere from Egypt and North Africa to Russia, Scandinavia and Central Europe. It was not until medieval times that it became widespread in Europe, probably then reaching Ireland and Scotland.

The best known version of the instrument is the Highland bagpipe, which has the addition of a drone, a single pipe that plays a continuous note. Marching into battle to the skirl of the pipes, the Scottish regiments won a ferocious reputation across the British Empire.

The presence of British forces in Arabian Gulf in the last century introduced this version of the bagpipe to the region, where it was adopted by local regimental and police bands, including the Dubai Police Band and the UAE Armed Forces Band.

What might have be seen by some as foreign import was actually the reel coming full circle.

Conflict, drought, famine

Estimates of the number of deaths caused by the famine range from 400,000 to 1 million, according to a document prepared for the UK House of Lords in 2024.
It has been claimed that the policies of the Ethiopian government, which took control after deposing Emperor Haile Selassie in a military-led revolution in 1974, contributed to the scale of the famine.
Dr Miriam Bradley, senior lecturer in humanitarian studies at the University of Manchester, has argued that, by the early 1980s, “several government policies combined to cause, rather than prevent, a famine which lasted from 1983 to 1985. Mengistu’s government imposed Stalinist-model agricultural policies involving forced collectivisation and villagisation [relocation of communities into planned villages].
The West became aware of the catastrophe through a series of BBC News reports by journalist Michael Buerk in October 1984 describing a “biblical famine” and containing graphic images of thousands of people, including children, facing starvation.

Band Aid

Bob Geldof, singer with the Irish rock group The Boomtown Rats, formed Band Aid in response to the horrific images shown in the news broadcasts.
With Midge Ure of the band Ultravox, he wrote the hit charity single Do They Know it’s Christmas in December 1984, featuring a string of high-profile musicians.
Following the single’s success, the idea to stage a rock concert evolved.
Live Aid was a series of simultaneous concerts that took place at Wembley Stadium in London, John F Kennedy Stadium in Philadelphia, the US, and at various other venues across the world.
The combined event was broadcast to an estimated worldwide audience of 1.5 billion.

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Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo

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Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.

“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.

“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”

If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.

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Favourite place in UAE: Al Rams pearling village

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Why are asylum seekers being housed in hotels?

The number of asylum applications in the UK has reached a new record high, driven by those illegally entering the country in small boats crossing the English Channel.

A total of 111,084 people applied for asylum in the UK in the year to June 2025, the highest number for any 12-month period since current records began in 2001.

Asylum seekers and their families can be housed in temporary accommodation while their claim is assessed.

The Home Office provides the accommodation, meaning asylum seekers cannot choose where they live.

When there is not enough housing, the Home Office can move people to hotels or large sites like former military bases.

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Labour dispute

The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.


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Who are the Soroptimists?

The first Soroptimists club was founded in Oakland, California in 1921. The name comes from the Latin word soror which means sister, combined with optima, meaning the best.

The organisation said its name is best interpreted as ‘the best for women’.

Since then the group has grown exponentially around the world and is officially affiliated with the United Nations. The organisation also counts Queen Mathilde of Belgium among its ranks.

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This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.

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The flights

Air Astana flies direct from Dubai to Almaty from Dh2,440 per person return, and to Astana (via Almaty) from Dh2,930 return, both including taxes. 

The hotels

Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Almaty cost from Dh1,944 per night including taxes; and in Astana the new Ritz-Carlton Astana (www.marriott) costs from Dh1,325; alternatively, the new St Regis Astana costs from Dh1,458 per night including taxes. 

When to visit

March-May and September-November

Visas

Citizens of many countries, including the UAE do not need a visa to enter Kazakhstan for up to 30 days. Contact the nearest Kazakhstan embassy or consulate.

Updated: May 26, 2024, 3:05 AM`