The ancient Jordanian town of Madaba − known as the City of Mosaics − is a tourism magnet, with its historic streets, olive trees and hidden gems tucked away in every corner.
One of these magical nooks is Kawon, a bookshop in the centre of town on Palestine Street, that is known for its stock of rare editions, quirky interior − and a resident tribe of cats.
The bookshop, the town's first, was opened 10 years ago by Ghaith Bahdousheh, who left the corporate world to sell books.
Mr Bahdousheh told Jordanian media at its launch that he started Kawon because there were no books accessible to him in his town, forcing him to drive almost an hour to Amman every time he wanted to buy some. He received help from volunteers around the world with funding and books, and also support from Queen Rania of Jordan.
A circular black sign etched with the shop's name − which means universe in Arabic − hangs from an archway at the entrance to the 150-year-old building and its garden, which features spaces for browsing, dining or simply relaxing, with cats milling about for company.
Going through the front entrance – where a wooden stand displays a colourful assortment of home-made jam and other condiments for sale – and going down the steps into the shop feels like being transported to a different world.
Inside is a display of vintage audio cassettes, maps, records and handmade souvenirs. Past the cashier, new and second-hand books, sorted according to genre, are scattered around three rooms; some on shelves other stacked in piles on the floor.
Works of art can be found in every section of the shop, including a prominently displayed portrait of Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, decorated with coffee pods and the lids of tins.
One of the rooms houses an extensive inventory of rare titles, antique books in several languages, and historical Asian artwork. For cat lovers, there is the prospect of occasionally discovering a cardboard box with a litter of kittens safely stowed away here.
Besides being a bibliophile's dream, Kawon has an outdoor space that encourages social gatherings, especially among young people, and builds a sense of community.
“Kawon is a unique and special place in Madaba,” says Mera Sayegh, 26, who lived in the town before moving to California.
“Sometimes, I went alone when I needed some quiet time. With friends, it was fun and lively, and alone, it was calm and reflective.”
Ms Sayegh says she misses the “vibe” of the shop − from its coffee to its music, books and people.
“I always enjoyed spending time there. It had a peaceful atmosphere that made me feel comfortable and happy. It always lifted my mood.”
Madaba residents are not the only visitors though. Travellers from all over the world have made it a point to come here when visiting Jordan.
One tourist on Tripadvisor said the wall murals caught her eye, and she has had the best cup of chai in Kawon. “So glad we stopped in, wish we had done so sooner and more frequently during our stay in Madaba … a treasure when travelling. Don’t miss this place,” she said.
Another user recommended Kawon's cafe. “My favourite part was the cafe. There’s a section upstairs, just outside the entrance to the bookstore that offers food, so I ordered from them their dish of the day – which was superb! Seriously, it was probably my favourite meal during my time in Jordan,” she said.
A vegetarian kitchen – which serves a new dish daily – and coffee shop sit between the bookstore and garden outdoors, its walls lined with jars of herbs and local spices.
As customers wait for their orders, conversations blossom about food, books they are reading, or how their day has been. Madaba being a small town, many of the visitors are likely to know each another, creating a strong local community.
People can also be seen stretched out on the Arab floor seating in the large outdoor area, reading and sipping sage tea as soft music plays through the speakers.
Tables and chairs are also set up for dining around the garden, each set with its own personality, with some seat cushions upholstered from coffee bags and rugs.
When there are no customers, the seats are occupied by sunbathing felines that can also be seen strutting about the place, enjoying the bowls of food and water the owners leave out for them. Over the years, their presence has become a feature of the bookshop, attracting new customers and adding to the ambience.
Quick pearls of wisdom
Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”
Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.”
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Price, base: From Dh57,000
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Stars: Hrithik Roshan, NTR, Kiara Advani, Ashutosh Rana
Rating: 2/5
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if you go
The flights
Direct flights from the UAE to the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu, are available with Air Arabia, (www.airarabia.com) Fly Dubai (www.flydubai.com) or Etihad (www.etihad.com) from Dh1,200 return including taxes. The trek described here started from Jomson, but there are many other start and end point variations depending on how you tailor your trek. To get to Jomson from Kathmandu you must first fly to the lake-side resort town of Pokhara with either Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) or Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com). Both charge around US$240 (Dh880) return. From Pokhara there are early morning flights to Jomson with Yeti Airlines or Simrik Airlines (www.simrikairlines.com) for around US$220 (Dh800) return.
The trek
Restricted area permits (US$500 per person) are required for trekking in the Upper Mustang area. The challenging Meso Kanto pass between Tilcho Lake and Jomson should not be attempted by those without a lot of mountain experience and a good support team. An excellent trekking company with good knowledge of Upper Mustang, the Annaurpuna Circuit and Tilcho Lake area and who can help organise a version of the trek described here is the Nepal-UK run Snow Cat Travel (www.snowcattravel.com). Prices vary widely depending on accommodation types and the level of assistance required.
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Sector: Travel & tourism
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Founder: Khaled Zaatarah
Based: Dubai and Los Angeles
Sector: Technology
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Funding: $7 million
Investors: Shorooq Partners, KBW Ventures, Vision Ventures, Hala Ventures, 500Startups, Plug and Play, Magnus Olsson, Samih Toukan, Jonathan Labin
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New UK refugee system
- A new “core protection” for refugees moving from permanent to a more basic, temporary protection
- Shortened leave to remain - refugees will receive 30 months instead of five years
- A longer path to settlement with no indefinite settled status until a refugee has spent 20 years in Britain
- To encourage refugees to integrate the government will encourage them to out of the core protection route wherever possible.
- Under core protection there will be no automatic right to family reunion
- Refugees will have a reduced right to public funds
About Okadoc
Date started: Okadoc, 2018
Founder/CEO: Fodhil Benturquia
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Healthcare
Size: (employees/revenue) 40 staff; undisclosed revenues recording “double-digit” monthly growth
Funding stage: Series B fundraising round to conclude in February
Investors: Undisclosed
