Palestinians filled with joy and trepidation begin long trek home to north Gaza

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Tens of thousands of displaced Palestinians began their long-awaited return to the north, months after being evicted by Israel's war on Gaza.

Those on foot took Al Rasheed Street, while vehicles took Salah Al Din Street, as permitted by the Israeli army under the terms of a ceasefire agreement with Hamas. Roadblocks were opened along the Netzarim Corridor, a stretch of land held by the Israeli military for much of the conflict.

At dawn, crowds gathered at Al Nuweiri area, west of Al Nuseirat City, walking and chanting "Allahu akbar". The opening came after Hamas agreed to release Israeli hostage Arbel Yehud and two other captives before Friday. Three other hostages are scheduled to be freed on Saturday.

“There is no joy like the joy of returning to the north,” Atiya Al Mahlawi, 52, a resident of Al Shati refugee camp, told The National. “Words fail me. I am overwhelmed today, despite the wounds, the massacres we lived through, and the harshness of displacement and tent life. Finally, we are back on Gaza’s soil – finally, we’ve made it.”

The return of Gazans to the north, which before the war was the enclave's most populated area but now lies in ruins, marks a major concession from Israel in the ceasefire deal struck with Hamas at the beginning of the month. It has enraged many in Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu’s far-right coalition, which was buckling under the strain of the hostage deal that several politicians say is a surrender.

Some ministers also wanted the north of Gaza to be resettled by Israel.

Television images showed large crowds on the move and witnesses said the first residents arrived in Gaza city early on Monday morning. The Israeli military had told displaced Palestinians they could return on foot along the coastal road and in vehicles along the eastern Salah Al Din Road.

Mr Al Mahlawi recounted his family's challenging journey on Friday. “We dismantled our tents in Mawasi, Khan Younis, sold them along with some belongings to lighten our load, and made our way to Al Nuseirat,” he said.

“We camped on the roadside, as close as possible to the Netzarim checkpoint, hoping it would open on Saturday as agreed. But, as always, the occupation delayed it and created complications. We ended up spending two full days in the street, waiting and following the news moment by moment.”

Israeli military spokesman Lt Col Avichay Adraee said in a post on X on Monday that residents could walk through Al Rasheed Street, which runs along the coast, from 7am local time. At 9am, residents could take vehicles along the Salah Al Din road, where they would be inspected.

“When they announced the road would open on Monday, everyone rejoiced and chanted in celebration,” Mr Al Mahlawi said. “At sunrise, we started walking towards Gaza city. Thousands were on the move, and the scene was filled with tears and joy. For the first time in over a year, we saw Gaza and touched its soil. I immediately prostrated in gratitude to God, along with my children and grandchildren – all 20 members of our family returned together.

“We continued walking until my brothers and their children met us. Their appearances had changed so much – subhan Allah, the war had transformed them.”

The scale of destruction at Al Shati Camp shocked him. “Even though we had been told about it before, seeing it with our own eyes was something else entirely,” he said.

The joy of reunion was tempered by the harsh reality of destruction. “When we arrived at our house in Al Shati Camp, it was a strange feeling – joy mixed with deep sadness,” Mr Al Mahlawi added. “Two of my nephews, who were martyred, used to live with us here, but they’re gone now. And we had been forcibly away from this home for so long.”

Hundreds of thousands of Gazans from the north had moved to the south to densely populated camps in the south of the enclave.

The northern governorate has been under five Israeli military displacement orders since the beginning of the war, according to the UN. Despite 15 months of war, fighting in the region once again increased shortly before the January ceasefire was reached.

Rashed Abu Huwaishal, 34, from Jabalia camp, reflected on the destruction and the emotional toll of the return journey.

“The worst part of the journey was the flood of memories,” he told The National. “I remembered the places I left behind when I was first displaced. Back then, everything was still intact, there wasn’t much damage. But now, everything is destroyed, reduced to rubble. No place is fit for living.”

Meanwhile, Israel’s far-right former National Security Minister Itamar Ben-Gvir criticised the opening of the Netzarim Corridor on Monday, saying on X that the images are “another humiliating part of the reckless deal”. “This is what complete surrender looks like,” he said.

Mr Abu Huwaishal had been forced to move to Deir Al Balah and returned alone to Gaza to assess the situation before bringing his family.

“The house we used to live in, in Jabalia Camp, was destroyed in the war," he said. "My brother told me about a house belonging to his friend in Al Nasr neighbourhood that we could stay in, so I came to assess its condition and decide when to bring my family to end this ordeal of displacement and the unbearable life in tents.”

Despite the destruction, he emphasised the deep connection Gazans feel with their land.

“Gaza is in us, and we are in Gaza," he said. "Its soil is precious to its people. Despite all the loss, everyone was happy and excited to go back to their homes and lives. The most heartbreaking part is seeing Gaza’s destruction, especially its landmarks. I had hoped to return to find some remnants of the city I knew, but sadly, it’s all gone.”