In Syria's western desert, Maree Al Shehab had given up hope of seeing his home city of Palmyra again, still less showing his children born over the last decade where they could trace their roots.
After fleeing an ISIS takeover of the city in 2015 with nothing but a small bag of clothes, he had lived in a refugee camp on the border with Jordan. Months passed without aid, there was little electricity and no running water in temporary shelters made of clay.
All the evil people of the earth entered it -- they displaced its good people who lived simply.”
Maree Al Shehab on Palmyra
But when ISIS was defeated in Palmyra, militias loyal to the now-deposed dictator Bashar Al Assad occupied the city and laid siege to the camp, preventing Mr Al Shehab and tens of thousands of others from returning.
His children, Mahmoud and Mal Al Sham, were born in the camp, which is called Rukban, but Mr Al Shehab frequently reminded them of their home, a town on the edge of the ruins of the ancient city of Palmyra. “I always told them that we have a homeland, but we were forced to leave it,” he said.
He showed them images of the city’s remains, including a colonnaded street, amphitheatres and temples. Known for its former ruler Queen Zenobia, who challenged the Eastern Roman Empire, Palmyra was a crucial trading city linking the east and west.
Mr Al Shehab also told his children of its close-knit community. “I told them about our beautiful neighbourhood and the neighbours we lived with as if we were one family,” he said.
Freedom has a price, and this price was very high due to 55 years of oppression
Maree Al Shehab
After the collapse of the Assad regime, he returned to the city on one of the first buses to leave Rukban. “We entered the city with happy hearts and eyes filled with tears of joy,” he said.
The first thing he did was to take his children to the ancient ruins. Mahmoud wanted to see the site's Roman arch. The ornate Triumphal Arch was one of three sites destroyed by ISIS in 2017.
Al Shehab told his children that the arch had been destroyed. He blamed the Assad regime for ISIS’s takeover in 2015 and the damage caused to the city by the militias that supported him. “All the evil people of the earth entered it,” he said. They displaced its good people who lived simply.”
He then saw the fear in his son’s eyes as they walked through the town’s devastated street market. Upon returning home, they found windows and doors missing, crumbling walls and nothing left inside.
“This is ruined, there is nobody in the neighbourhood. Where will we live?” Mahmoud asked. Mr Al Shebab admitted that upon seeing his home, he had second thoughts about having returned so soon. “I said to myself, 'why did you bring them here before repairing the house?'” he said.
Demining efforts
Former residents who have returned to the city from Idlib and Damascus formed the Civil Committee of Tadmor. They said they hoped the city's administration would be formed of locals who had not been involved with the Assad regime. “We want only revolutionary cadres,” an official told The National.
Rebuilding efforts are also affected by landmines left behind by the Iran-backed militias and Russian groups that occupied the city. “It is affecting the livelihoods of Bedouin herders who cannot take their flocks out safely,” he said. The Syrian Free Army has been patrolling the city to check on residents during demining efforts.
Not a priority
There are concerns that the new HTS-led administration could overlook the crises in rural areas as it focuses on rebuilding the largest cities. “They're not paying attention to the countryside,” said Khaled Al Homsi, a former resident of Palmyra now living in Turkey.
Several plans exist to restore ancient sites. ISIS used the ruins of the arch as a backdrop for their execution videos, while Russian forces that took the city back hosted a classical music concert in an amphitheatre. Several plans exist for the recovery of the ancient site, which became a potent symbol during the war. ISIS used it as the backdrop for their execution videos, and Russian forces that took the city back hosted a classical music concert in its amphitheatre. A 3D replica of the Arch was erected in London's Trafalgar square in 2016.
The Assad regime dug up the city to prepare artillery positions, build dykes and roads. Important tombs were looted, or damaged by air strikes, according to the Association for the Protection of Syrian Archaeology. However, there is a more urgent need for running water, electricity and safe homes, as people begin to return.
Rebuilding homes
When Ibrahim Mohamed returned to his home from Rukban, he no longer recognised it. The ceilings had collapsed from shelling, the windows and doors were missing, and the electrical wiring had been removed from the walls. “There was nothing. No windows, no doors. No running water,” he told The National.
Facing unemployment, Mr Mohamed is struggling to gather the funds to feed his family and rebuild. “I need to put 1.5 million Syrian pounds ($115) for each door. I don’t have that. I need to feed my children, I can’t afford bread,” he said.
His five children were born in Rukban camp. His eldest is 10 years old, and the youngest is four months old. “They were hoping to have a home at last. Now some of them tell me they want to go back to the camp,” he said.
The fear of destitution is one of the reasons why hundreds of refugees have opted to stay in Rukban, a camp administrator told The National. At its peak, the camp hosted about 60,000 refugees, but by the time the Assad regime fell, the numbers had dwindled to about 1,850.
Mr Al Shehab is using any means he can to rebuild to allow his family to return. He is hanging blankets to cover doors and plastic sheets for windows. He plans to use as little electricity as possible, as his family has become used to living without it.
However, he expects to pay over $100 to reinstall water – which he cannot afford without job opportunities. He fears that the new government will not be able to provide basic services quickly and hopes international aid organisations can support them. But he is hopeful that Syrians can come together to rebuild their country.
“Freedom has a price, and this price was very high due to 55 years of oppression. Now we need intensive work and solidarity to build a beautiful Syria,” he said.
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 258hp from 5,000-6,500rpm
Torque: 400Nm from 1,550-4,000rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.1L/100km
Price: from Dh362,500
On sale: now
In numbers: China in Dubai
The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages.
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
More coverage from the Future Forum
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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UAE
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Japan
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Norway
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Milestones on the road to union
1970
October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar.
December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.
1971
March 1: Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.
July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.
July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.
August 6: The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.
August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.
September 3: Qatar becomes independent.
November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.
November 29: At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.
November 30: Despite a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa.
November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties
December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.
December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.
December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.
MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW
Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman
Director: Jesse Armstrong
Rating: 3.5/5
The five pillars of Islam
Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
If you go
The flights
There are direct flights from Dubai to Sofia with FlyDubai (www.flydubai.com) and Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com), from Dh1,164 and Dh822 return including taxes, respectively.
The trip
Plovdiv is 150km from Sofia, with an hourly bus service taking around 2 hours and costing $16 (Dh58). The Rhodopes can be reached from Sofia in between 2-4hours.
The trip was organised by Bulguides (www.bulguides.com), which organises guided trips throughout Bulgaria. Guiding, accommodation, food and transfers from Plovdiv to the mountains and back costs around 170 USD for a four-day, three-night trip.
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Quick%20facts
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