Perched along Egypt's pristine Red Sea coast, Marsa Alam has long been a hidden gem for beach and diving enthusiasts seeking an escape from the crowded popular resorts of Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada. However, this remote paradise has recently found itself in the spotlight for all the wrong reasons.
A series of alarming maritime incidents have taken place in the area this year, including the sinking of five liveaboard yachts and a cargo ship named the VSG Glory, which went down on Monday after it had run aground on November 22, causing an oil spill.
The freighter was carrying 70 tonnes of fuel oil when it collided with a coral reef off the coast of El Quseir. It was also carrying 4,000 tonnes of bran and 50 tonnes of diesel. Egypt's Environment Minister Yasmine Fouad responded to the incident by visiting the area last Sunday to monitor clean-up efforts.
A coalition of naval forces, petroleum experts and environmentalists had been working to clean up the oil while crews worked to repair the ship's hull, which had been split open in the collision. Repair efforts failed.
After the ship sank on Monday, Ms Fouad said efforts to limit environmental damage to the surrounding area were intensifying. However, the full extent of the pollution remains to be seen. El Quseir residents say areas of the beach have been coated in oil.
The vessel had been seen by The National on Friday morning being tugged along the coastline between the port city of Safaga and El Quseir. It was tilting.
The frequency of incidents in the Marsa Alam area has raised serious concerns about the safety of the waters surrounding this idyllic destination.
The most recent liveaboard incident involved a yacht called Sea Story, which was carrying 44 passengers and a crew of various nationalities. It capsized, resulting in the death of six, while five others remain missing at sea. The 33 others on board were returned alive after days of search and rescue efforts by the Egyptian navy.
Despite the widespread attention the incident received in the press and on social media, many residents in Marsa Alam seemed unfazed.
During a recent visit to the area, several told The National that while the sinking of the liveaboard yachts was indeed tragic, it was seen by most as no one's fault.
The 300km stretch of coastline from Hurghada to Marsa Alam, which gets wilder to the south, is a patchwork of cargo docks, military bases, luxury hotels and diving resorts.
That the coastline constitutes one of the country’s strategic sea borders with Saudi Arabia and Yemen, also a prolific smuggling hub, necessitates a strong military presence.
Some of Egypt’s largest stone quarries, mostly owned by the armed forces, in addition to the country’s largest gold mine, Al Sukkari, are found around Marsa Alam. Military bases, some with gargantuan radar units, are also a common sight near the beaches, many of which are patrolled by uniformed soldiers.
The situation is made more intense by the often heavy commercial maritime traffic on its way either to or from the many ports on Egypt’s Red Sea or through the Suez Canal.
Ali Abdo, 58, a tour operator in Marsa Alam, explained that passengers embarking on yacht journeys, whether they are day trips on small boats or multi-day 'safaris', are required to sign release forms by the tour officials, acknowledging that they are participating at their own risk and that companies are not liable for any accidents.
The tour operators are then required to present a list of any passenger trips to the military intelligence office, located across the street from Marsa Alam’s marina. The military then would either approve the trip or forbid it. The armed forces' main concern, however, is securing the border – not tourists' safety. Safety checks and co-ordination on weather for sailing does not fall under its jurisdiction, Mr Abdo said.
Tour companies are responsible for co-ordinating with state bodies operating in the area on safety measures for passengers, such as weather warnings. They are also held responsible should any traveller choose to take legal action for an experience on a trip.
Mr Abdo said it is, however, common for tourism companies, especially larger, well-connected ones, to ignore certain safety protocols at their own discretion due to their packed schedules and the financial losses they would incur from delays caused by the popularity of diving tourism.
Yassin Sayed, a port attendant at Marsa Alam marina, said: “If a closure is issued by the military for a security concern or a smuggling bust, everyone complies and they return and moor their boats immediately. But weather warnings aren’t always enforced by the military. Some tour companies will ignore weather concerns so they don’t lose money."
He argues, it is possible this happened with Sea Story, which embarked on a five-day safari despite the Egyptian Meteorological Authority warning against sailing on the day of departure.
“To be fair, the sea here is very narrow compared to the Mediterranean and weather rarely gets bad enough for ships to sink. Far more vessels sink because of the coral reefs,” he added.
The Chamber of Diving and Water Sports, a private sector umbrella authority that oversees permits for diving centres and tourism companies in the area, did not respond to The National’s request for comment on the incident.
The governor of Red Sea province, Maj Gen Amr Hanafy, said last week that the Sea Story started sinking after it was hit by "a high sea wave".
Of the four other yacht incidents, two featured cabin fires. One involved Nourhan, a 36-metre liveaboard carrying 24 passengers, which sank on November 6, and another involved the Sea Legend, which burned down to its metal frame in February causing the death of three British citizens.
Its charred remains are now on display at Marsa Alam marina and have become a tourist attraction. According to Mr Sayed and Mr Abdo, the yacht could be seen from the coastal road, drifting for hours as it burned before it hit a stone breakwater. “A military boat followed it all night at a distance as it blazed.” Mr Sayed said.
The remaining two incidents involved the vessels Exocet, which sank on June 26, and Seaduction, which went down in October. Both had collided with the dense coral reefs in the area.
“You can’t point a finger at any one thing that needs to be fixed in order to stop yachts sinking,” Mr Sayed said. “There are often different reasons, which isn’t a surprise ... after all, being out at sea is inherently risky and there are many factors that could go wrong."
It’s a place that is so different to where they come from, a more dangerous place, and that’s a big part of the appeal
Ali Abdo,
tour operator
The wildness of Marsa Alam’s terrain and its open waters, dense with coral, are the main draw for the kind of tourists who take diving trips, according to Mr Abdo. Such tourists are classified by operators as more adventurous than those who choose to go to Sharm El Sheikh or Hurghada.
“Risk is part of the attraction here," Mr Abdo said. "Tourists want to go out further into the sea, they want to dive with sharks and large turtles and they want to explore dark caverns underwater for hours. It’s a place that is so different to where they come from, a more dangerous place and that’s a big part of the appeal.”
He says the majority of tourists in Marsa Alam are European. “I have been a tour operator here for almost 20 years and what I have noticed is that more Europeans come here than any other nationality. I had a German couple ask me to get them military permission papers to hike through the mountains from here to Luxor – that’s over 200km through rocky mountains!”
The recent maritime incidents in Marsa Alam have shed light on the complex challenges faced by this remote paradise. The blend of commercial shipping, military presence and adventurous tourism has created a precarious balance that, when disrupted, can lead to tragic consequences.
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)
Power: 141bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh64,500
On sale: Now
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MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-finals, first leg
Liverpool v Roma
When: April 24, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Anfield, Liverpool
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 2, Stadio Olimpico, Rome
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Analysis
Maros Sefcovic is juggling multiple international trade agreement files, but his message was clear when he spoke to The National on Wednesday.
The EU-UAE bilateral trade deal will be finalised soon, he said. It is in everyone’s interests to do so. Both sides want to move quickly and are in alignment. He said the UAE is a very important partner for the EU. It’s full speed ahead - and with some lofty ambitions - on the road to a free trade agreement.
We also talked about US-EU tariffs. He answered that both sides need to talk more and more often, but he is prepared to defend Europe's position and said diplomacy should be a guiding principle through the current moment.
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Director Ashutosh Gowariker
Produced Ashutosh Gowariker, Rohit Shelatkar, Reliance Entertainment
Cast Arjun Kapoor, Sanjay Dutt, Kriti Sanon, Mohnish Behl, Padmini Kolhapure, Zeenat Aman
Rating 3 /5 stars
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Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman
Director: Jesse Armstrong
Rating: 3.5/5
LILO & STITCH
Starring: Sydney Elizebeth Agudong, Maia Kealoha, Chris Sanders
Director: Dean Fleischer Camp
Rating: 4.5/5
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In 2013, The National's History Project went beyond the walls to see what life was like living in Abu Dhabi's fabled fort:
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FIGHT CARD
Bantamweight Hamza Bougamza (MAR) v Jalal Al Daaja (JOR)
Catchweight 67kg Mohamed El Mesbahi (MAR) v Fouad Mesdari (ALG)
Lighweight Abdullah Mohammed Ali (UAE) v Abdelhak Amhidra (MAR)
Catchweight 73kg Mostafa Ibrahim Radi (PAL) v Yazid Chouchane (ALG)
Middleweight Yousri Belgaroui (TUN) v Badreddine Diani (MAR)
Catchweight 78kg Rashed Dawood (UAE) v Adnan Bushashy (ALG)
Middleweight Sallaheddine Dekhissi (MAR) v Abdel Emam (EGY)
Catchweight 65kg Rachid Hazoume (MAR) v Yanis Ghemmouri (ALG)
Lighweight Mohammed Yahya (UAE) v Azouz Anwar (EGY)
Catchweight 79kg Omar Hussein (PAL) v Souhil Tahiri (ALG)
Middleweight Tarek Suleiman (SYR) v Laid Zerhouni (ALG)
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When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
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The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
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RESULTS
Catchweight 82kg
Piotr Kuberski (POL) beat Ahmed Saeb (IRQ) by decision.
Women’s bantamweight
Corinne Laframboise (CAN) beat Cornelia Holm (SWE) by unanimous decision.
Welterweight
Omar Hussein (PAL) beat Vitalii Stoian (UKR) by unanimous decision.
Welterweight
Josh Togo (LEB) beat Ali Dyusenov (UZB) by unanimous decision.
Flyweight
Isaac Pimentel (BRA) beat Delfin Nawen (PHI) TKO round-3.
Catchweight 80kg
Seb Eubank (GBR) beat Emad Hanbali (SYR) KO round 1.
Lightweight
Mohammad Yahya (UAE) beat Ramadan Noaman (EGY) TKO round 2.
Lightweight
Alan Omer (GER) beat Reydon Romero (PHI) submission 1.
Welterweight
Juho Valamaa (FIN) beat Ahmed Labban (LEB) by unanimous decision.
Featherweight
Elias Boudegzdame (ALG) beat Austin Arnett (USA) by unanimous decision.
Super heavyweight
Maciej Sosnowski (POL) beat Ibrahim El Sawi (EGY) by submission round 1.
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Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction
Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.
Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.
Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.
Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.
Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.
What are the guidelines?
Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.
Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.
Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.
Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.
Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.
Source: American Paediatric Association
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Essentials
The flights
Etihad and Emirates fly direct from the UAE to Delhi from about Dh950 return including taxes.
The hotels
Double rooms at Tijara Fort-Palace cost from 6,670 rupees (Dh377), including breakfast.
Doubles at Fort Bishangarh cost from 29,030 rupees (Dh1,641), including breakfast. Doubles at Narendra Bhawan cost from 15,360 rupees (Dh869). Doubles at Chanoud Garh cost from 19,840 rupees (Dh1,122), full board. Doubles at Fort Begu cost from 10,000 rupees (Dh565), including breakfast.
The tours
Amar Grover travelled with Wild Frontiers. A tailor-made, nine-day itinerary via New Delhi, with one night in Tijara and two nights in each of the remaining properties, including car/driver, costs from £1,445 (Dh6,968) per person.
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Friday, February 18: 10am - Oman v Nepal, Canada v Philippines; 2pm - Ireland v UAE, Germany v Bahrain
Saturday, February 19: 10am - Oman v Canada, Nepal v Philippines; 2pm - UAE v Germany, Ireland v Bahrain
Monday, February 21: 10am - Ireland v Germany, UAE v Bahrain; 2pm - Nepal v Canada, Oman v Philippines
Tuesday, February 22: 2pm – semi-finals
Thursday, February 24: 2pm – final
UAE squad: Ahmed Raza (captain), Muhammad Waseem, Chirag Suri, Vriitya Aravind, Rohan Mustafa, Kashif Daud, Zahoor Khan, Alishan Sharafu, Raja Akifullah, Karthik Meiyappan, Junaid Siddique, Basil Hameed, Zafar Farid, Mohammed Boota, Mohammed Usman, Rahul Bhatia
All matches to be streamed live on icc.tv
GOLF’S RAHMBO
- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
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A German university was a good fit for the family budget
Annual fees for the Technical University of Munich - £600
Shared rental accommodation per month depending on the location ranges between £200-600
The family had budgeted for food, books, travel, living expenses - £20,000 annually
Overall costs in Germany are lower than the family estimated
As proof that the student has the ability to take care of expenses, international students must open a blocked account with about £8,640
Students are permitted to withdraw £720 per month
The specs: 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn
Price, base / as tested: Dhxxx
Engine: 5.7L V8
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 395hp @ 5,600rpm
Torque: 556Nm @ 3,950rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.7L / 100km
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Zakat definitions
Zakat: an Arabic word meaning ‘to cleanse’ or ‘purification’.
Nisab: the minimum amount that a Muslim must have before being obliged to pay zakat. Traditionally, the nisab threshold was 87.48 grams of gold, or 612.36 grams of silver. The monetary value of the nisab therefore varies by current prices and currencies.
Zakat Al Mal: the ‘cleansing’ of wealth, as one of the five pillars of Islam; a spiritual duty for all Muslims meeting the ‘nisab’ wealth criteria in a lunar year, to pay 2.5 per cent of their wealth in alms to the deserving and needy.
Zakat Al Fitr: a donation to charity given during Ramadan, before Eid Al Fitr, in the form of food. Every adult Muslim who possesses food in excess of the needs of themselves and their family must pay two qadahs (an old measure just over 2 kilograms) of flour, wheat, barley or rice from each person in a household, as a minimum.
Key figures in the life of the fort
Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.
Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.
Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.
Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.
Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan (ruled 1966-2004) Moved the royal residence to Al Manhal palace and kept his diwan at Qasr Al Hosn.
Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae